Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: Parky7 on 15 May 2021, 01:25:23 pm
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Hello people…
Had the bike ticking over today for about 10 minutes
And noticed some oil on the floor it appears to be coming from around the exhaust manifold area…
On the side the TPS is on (as only just got the bike not up to speed yet , so not sure if that is cylinder 1 or 4 )
It’ not major leak just a few drips but would like to sort it .. also need to check valve clearance as it a bit tappy..
I have not had time to give it a good clean yet so I can get a better idea of the actual area it’s leaking from..
On a plus note the exhaust header bolts look quite new , so I might be able to take the exhaust off without any issues…
Any thoughts……
Parky..
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There's an external oil feed just behind the downpipes (part 14 on the diagram). It easily corrodes. Could be that.
On Ebay there's a replacement flexible pipe.
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-Fazer-Boxeye-PTFE-Braided-flexible-oil-delivery-pipe/143611076151 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-Fazer-Boxeye-PTFE-Braided-flexible-oil-delivery-pipe/143611076151)
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Thanks for the quick reply…
When I get time I will take a look at it ..
Is it an exhaust off job …
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Fortunately I haven't had to do it myself. Managed to stop the rust before it took over. Looks doable without taking the headers off.
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I’ve literally just had this on my bike (thread in here too).
Watch the middle Allen bolt, it’s a nightmare.
There isn’t much room for any of it tbh, but with some patience (swearing) I got everything done without the need to remove anything else.
Nice big spanners for the top/bottom bolts. I would suggest some penetration fluid for the middle one...at the very least!
I managed to find a second hand original pipe, cleaned it up and repainted. I also bought the eBay flexible version for future in case it fails.
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Check chaps
Thanks for the info..
Once I get a few days off work will give it a proper inspection...
Take some pics and give you an update..
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Took a look today
The oil is coming from the exhaust header stud (no 4 cylinder)
On closer inspection someone has put a bolt in the place of the stud and it was quite lose. I dit try a similar M6 bolt just to check the thread is ok which it seems to be, Is it normal for oil to come out of here.
Anyhow if I replace the bolt with the correct stud will this cure the problem….
Does anyone know the length of the M6 stud ……
Many thanks 😊
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There should be no oil coming out of there. Sounds like someone has drilled out a stud and got it wrong.
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my thoughts as well BB...the odd bolt being the clue...cant see there being a great deal of pressure there so perhaps some sealant on a new stud...
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There should be no oil coming out of there. Sounds like someone has drilled out a stud and got it wrong.
:agree
Sounds like someone has drilled the stud hole deeper due to it being stripped, seen this a good few times. :rolleyes
If it's the top stud hole that's leaking they likely penetrated into the camshaft space/well if it's the lower possibly an oil return gallery. Pop off the cam cover and take a look, if it's the former you'll see the hole/bolt in the cam well it's only has to be tiny for it to leak. If it is and the thread in the stud hole is good it's just a simple matter of sealing in a bolt/stud. If the current bolt is good and long enough you should to be able to cut the head off and make a stud out of it, if not get one you can. With either with the current or new bolt that is long enough, to reach the bottom of the stub hole and protrude enough to accommodate the exhaust header collar and nut. Check all that first before moving to the next bit.
Now clean the stud hole front/back and around the area inside the cam well, with brake cleaner to remove all traces of oil. You might have to use some blue tack positioned above/around the hole like a dam to stop oil running down and back in the hole. Using stud lock not nut lock, stud lock is normally green if you can get Loctite 270, they do 10ml bottles, which you can get off fleebay or amazon for about £10 inc postage or less. With the stud hole oil free (give it another blast of brake cleaner, allow it to dry off, now liberally coat the bolt and inside the stud hole with the stud lock and insert and bottom out the bolt in the stud hole. Look for some of the stud lock oozing out of the hole in the cam well. Make sure the hole stays filled again you may need some blue tack under/around the hole to keep it there.
Leave it for about 3-4 hrs, job done ;)
If it's the lower stud then you'll just have to clean out the hole, be careful when spraying the stud hole with brake cleaner as is will end up in the sump. I would recommend you cover the bolt in the cleaner and quickly insert and bottom it several times until the bolt comes out dry. On the last and dry extraction, more cleaner on the bolt and put it back in, while you get the stub lock out etc. Remove it coat it and insert it as fast as you can, this will limit the amount of oil that gets back in the stub hole.
Make sure you clean all the remaining studs of corrosion, use proper anti seize paste on all stubs before refitting the exhaust nuts.
If you ever need to remove the bolt, you'll have to use heat to melt the stud lock.
I've done the above many times.
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Thanks for the very informative reply…
Was planning to check the valve clearances so this is a good opportunity…..
So it’s not a disaster then , it’s not pouring out just a drip every minute or so
I will get some stud lock ordered and update you in due course
I think it’s the bottom bolt , memory gone getting old :rolleyes
Many thanks again guys… :)
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Hi
Had another look at it today…
Tried a M6 bolt ,just for the size . Bolt screws in but then goes loose so I guess the thread has been stripped ..
Would it be possible to re-drill and tap it to 8mm and then use some 8mm stainless threaded bar to make a stud,how deep should the thread go in engine as I don’t want to bugger it anymore…..
I have a decent tap & die set , would a 7 mm drill bit allow to be tapped to 8mm
It is the bottom stud on number 4…
Thanks..
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Hi
Had another look at it today…
Tried a M6 bolt ,just for the size . Bolt screws in but then goes loose so I guess the thread has been stripped ..
Would it be possible to re-drill and tap it to 8mm and then use some 8mm stainless threaded bar to make a stud,how deep should the thread go in engine as I don’t want to bugger it anymore…..
I have a decent tap & die set , would a 7 mm drill bit allow to be tapped to 8mm
It is the bottom stud on number 4…
Thanks..
If you do that, you need to be sure that you have room enough to turn an 8mm nut to tighten the exhaust clamp.. Personally, Id go for the helicoil solution to keep standard M6 stud fitting. For example https://www.screwfix.com/p/helicoil-eco-thread-repair-kit-m6-x-1-0mm-14-pieces/293fr (https://www.screwfix.com/p/helicoil-eco-thread-repair-kit-m6-x-1-0mm-14-pieces/293fr)
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If you do that, you need to be sure that you have room enough to turn an 8mm nut to tighten the exhaust clamp.. Personally, Id go for the helicoil solution to keep standard M6 stud fitting. For example https://www.screwfix.com/p/helicoil-eco-thread-repair-kit-m6-x-1-0mm-14-pieces/293fr (https://www.screwfix.com/p/helicoil-eco-thread-repair-kit-m6-x-1-0mm-14-pieces/293fr)
:agree
But somewhat cheaper here https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/040216677/ (https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/040216677/)
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Thanks for the info.
Just ordered a helicoil kit…
I will take a few pics and give you an update once I have done it…
Should I still use studlock on it
Cheers :rolleyes
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Should I still use studlock on it
Yes, as you're not just replacing a stripped stud but a leak, potentially caused by drilling into an oil space or gallery. Stud lock the helicoil, then fit a new OE stud, apply some anti seize paste and see if it still leaks. If so remove the stub and clean the threads as described earlier, apply stud lock and hopefully that will sort the leak.
Failing that it's head off and replace it or have an engineering shop fit a plug and redrill the hole to the correct thread and depth. The latter is the correct way to fix the problem ;)
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Many thanks
Where would the best place to get the stud from
Waiting for the kit to come, then I’m away for a week
So will do it when I get back…
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Either direct from somewhere like Fowlers mail order, some stealers will get you the part next day. Or you can cut down a bolt if you've got one and can cut it.
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Hi
Fitted the helicoil with some stud lock..
Made a stud out of some stainless steel rod
Put some thread lock on that, screwed it up feels nice and tight but we will see if it leaks or not..
Need to get some exhaust gaskets before I fire it up... might be a week or so as I've got the carbs out to change the rubbers as they were in a right state..
Removed the cam chain tensioner while the carbs are off as it sounds a be rattling.
Just as I removed it the Mrs made me jump and I drop it so lost count of the number of notches it had :eek
Also going to check the valve clearance while I'm at it ...
So got a bit to do...
Thanks chaps
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Finally got around to putting fanny the Fazer back together today,
Replaced carb rubbers,reset cam chain tensioner, checked valve clearances ...
She fired up after a minute or so once the petrol got through...
Left it ticking over for ten minutes or so , no oil leaking from exhaust stud so the helicoil and stud lock did the trick....
Now on to the respray...
Thanks for all your help and advice....
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:thumbup