MT-07 Push Lever Assembly

[SmuttyHutty]

Just been looking around and the well-known mini-mod of popping the MT-07 clutch push lever assembly on an FZ6 is on my radar. The part number is 1WS-16340-00 and is £32.58 from Fowler Parts. However, the same part for the Tracer 700 looks identical - part number BU3-E6340-00 and is £21.14 from Fowler Parts.


Can anyone confirm that these two parts are indeed identical?

[Grahamm]

If you search on the part number, there's other options, eg this one is £25.13

https://www.cmsnl.com/products/push-lever-assy_1ws1634000/

[SmuttyHutty]

Postage from Holland brings it to £35.34 which is a pest.

[Grahamm]

Ah, I didn't notice that.

You could always try breakers or look for someone parting out an old bike.

[SmuttyHutty]

I called Fowlers Parts and they said that the 1WS is not superseding BU3 so I checked on Yamaha's parts website for this lever arm assembly for the Tracer 700 and it now lists the item as 1WS.


I've gone and ordered BU3 from Fowlers who've said they're happy to refund me if it's not the right part. Excellent customer service. Now need to wait until early June for it to arrive....

[SmuttyHutty]

Saw this YouTube vid:


and at around 1:30 there's a piece of genius: an adjustable clutch arm. So, once I've swapped mine over I'll try and fabricate this with the stock arm and see what it is like. I've also got a bag of FZ6 bits arriving which includes the clutch cable guide which I'll try to adapt to fit the new direction of the cable to reduce the risks of cable rub.

[Grahamm]

I actually bought one like that from a fellow Foccer quite a few years ago (rather than the MT-07 version) and it does the job fine.

However, as with the one in the pic, mine attached on the centre hole and I ended up using a Dremel to cut off the extra section because I was worried that, in an Off, it could end up stuck in my knee...   

[SmuttyHutty]

Ouch!


Did you try it on the furthest hole?

[agricola]

I actually bought one like that from a fellow Foccer quite a few years ago (rather than the MT-07 version) and it does the job fine.

However, as with the one in the pic, mine attached on the centre hole and I ended up using a Dremel to cut off the extra section because I was worried that, in an Off, it could end up stuck in my knee...   

You didnt buy it off me Graham, I lent it to you 

[Grahamm]

Did you try it on the furthest hole?

Yes, but it made the lever pull too long, so the middle hole worked best for me.

[Grahamm]

You didnt buy it off me Graham, I lent it to you 

I quote "You could have had this for nowt."

Therefore, I bought it for nowt! 

[agricola]

You didnt buy it off me Graham, I lent it to you 

I quote "You could have had this for nowt."

Therefore, I bought it for nowt! 

 

[SmuttyHutty]

So BU3-E6340-00 has arrived and it looks remarkably like [size=0px]1WS-16340-00 but £11 cheaper.[/size]
[/size]
[/size][size=0px]First pic is a screenshot of BeginnerBiker's image and the next three are BU3. The rise is different to the original FZ6 arm and I've got a spare cable guide which I might remodel (hit with a hammer after angle grinding a slot!) to change the angle of the cable if needed.[/size]
[/size]

[fazermike]

What is the benefit of doing this mod?

[SmuttyHutty]

What is the benefit of doing this mod?

I'm told that it makes the clutch lighter. I've not fitted it yet. Just done 120 miles with the stock arm and the clutch is almost like an on/off switch. Not much subtlety. So I'm going to fit this late on Sunday or early next week and report back.

[Grahamm]

What is the benefit of doing this mod?

The clutch action is lighter and you get a longer friction zone, so less knackered hand and better slow speed control

A month or two ago I helped out another FZ6 owner who was in need of a clutch cable and, after we'd fitted the new one, I tried the action on his clutch and thought "Damn, I'm glad I've got the extended lever...!"

[SmuttyHutty]

Just got back from my 250 mile round trip and swapped the clutch lever assembly arm and wish I'd done it before I left.


Grahamm is totally right - it's noticeably lighter and the biting point of the clutch is much longer. It's so, so much easier.


I didn't bother mucking about with the cable guide and by inspection there's no issue with catching or fouling.


My drive is on a slope and I let the bike roll backwards in neutral, then did the same with the clutch pulled in she the gearbox in first gear. Didn't notice any difference so I assume I've got the adjustment right...?


Photo is from before I tightened the cable at the clutch handlebar lever end.

[Grahamm]

My drive is on a slope and I let the bike roll backwards in neutral, then did the same with the clutch pulled in she the gearbox in first gear. Didn't notice any difference so I assume I've got the adjustment right...?

The easiest way to check the adjustment is to run the bike with the clutch in, then slowly let it out. As it reaches the bite point, you should notice a change in the engine note as it just starts to engage the plates.

BTW if you haven't swapped the OEM levers for a set of adjustable aluminium ones, I'd well recommend that so you can ensure the levers are in exactly the right position to be comfortable for you.

Look on YouTube for the Dave Moss videos about how to set the bike ergonomics so it fits you, rather than you fitting the bike

[SmuttyHutty]

It came with adjustable levers but even on setting 1 the clutch lever is a tad too far away so I've slackened the cable a bit. Spec says 10-15mm and I am well and truly at the 15mm end of things.