Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner => Topic started by: RoyBatty on 05 November 2020, 10:13:34 am
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I fancy replacing the original stock brake lines on my bike.
Any particular ones better than others?
Best price I've found is for EBC lines from Demon Tweaks, about £93 the whole set.
Does the FOC-U get a discount anywhere? I thought I read something about HEL lines but can't find it now...
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Venhill lines are highly recommended. Top quality and the swivel banjo fittings making installation very simple.
https://www.venhill.co.uk/partfinder/search/vehicle/id/5563 (https://www.venhill.co.uk/partfinder/search/vehicle/id/5563)
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I can highly recommend Wezmoto lines. I replaced my aged HEL ones with them in the summer. You wouldn't tell the difference in terms of finish and quality but they are only £60 for the full set!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141063262561 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141063262561)
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I've had forum discount from Hel on two occasions in recent years, even for a can of brake fluid. From memory the code was FORUM 25 or maybe 20. If you do a search on this forum you'll come across it, providing of course, Hel still offer us discount.
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I can highly recommend Wezmoto lines. I replaced my aged HEL ones with them in the summer. You wouldn't tell the difference in terms of finish and quality
That will be because Wez makes his lines in the Hel factory with their parts so they are exactly the same minus the Hel branding ;)
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Thanks all :thumbup
Still pondering, I just did a 'dry run' on the HEL website and can confirm Forum25 works as a discount code. (-25%)
Venhill seems to have availability issues.
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I just did a 'dry run' on the HEL website and can confirm Forum25 works as a discount code. (-25%)
Venhill seems to have availability issues.
Wish Id thought to look on the forum before I ordered a full set of HEL for my Gen 1 earlier this year, at full cost. :'(
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Venhill seems to have availability issues.
They are made to order and can be modified to your specifications if necessary (eg extra length for bar risers). They aren’t cheap (I got the stainless ones) but quality is first class.
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2 hose or 3 hose? any suggestions which is better?
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I went for 3 hose at the front, just because I think it looks neater.
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:agree For exactly the same reason.
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:agree For exactly the same reason.
Me too. Still not fitted them yet though :rolleyes
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So I've gone with the HEL lines, full set, ~£74 with the discount.
Bleed nipples very corroded, and covers missing, so they're on their way from Yambits.
Also some silver Renthals (758) from somewhere called '24MX' - £39. Nowhere else had any in stock.
£££££ I've only had it two days!!
The Best fun though.
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Who knew there was a 'Secret Extra Bleed Nipple' around the back of the rear caliper?!
Spent ages (and lots of Dot4) this afternoon trying to bleed the new rear line, -couldn't get a 'firm pedal' and eventually gave up thinking I needed a Master Cylinder repair kit or something.
Then later I happened to be around the other side of the bike and spotted it. Job done! :-)
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Who knew there was a 'Secret Extra Bleed Nipple' around the back of the rear caliper?!
Spent ages (and lots of Dot4) this afternoon trying to bleed the new rear line, -couldn't get a 'firm pedal' and eventually gave up thinking I needed a Master Cylinder repair kit or something.
Then later I happened to be around the other side of the bike and spotted it. Job done! :-)
Yep, knew about that, but still took some time to get a firm pedal though. Ended up raising the caliper above the master cylinder. Best rear brake I’ve ever had on a bike, without a doubt.
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I can highly recommend Wezmoto lines. I replaced my aged HEL ones with them in the summer. You wouldn't tell the difference in terms of finish and quality
That will be because Wez makes his lines in the Hel factory with their parts so they are exactly the same minus the Hel branding ;)
Put Wezmoto lines on mine and thought they were great quality,then seen this post and realised why. :thumbup
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I eventually loosened both caliper bolts, and removed the front one (on the rear caliper), so was able to 'hinge' the caliper down a bit such that the nipples were more nearly at the very top. Quite a bit more air came out once I did that. :-)
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Were your Renthal bars straight or with a rise? only asking because I wanted a more comfortable riding position on my Gen 2 so,not thinking I bought a pair with a medium rise which were just right but the oem brake lines were a fair bit short ,that's how I came to buy some lengthened ones from Wezmoto and while I was at it I got the rear as well.I wasn't planning on putting braided lines on initially but they tidied the bike up so much I'm glad the original ones didn't fit.Just wasn't sure whether you had the same problem with a Gen1
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I got the '758' bars, in Silver. They call them 'Road Bike Ultra Low'. I wouldn't say there's any more rise than the standard bars, they're a little wider, and quite a bit less raked back at the ends. Feels a slightly more 'aggressive' riding position.
I haven't got the master cylinder on yet but with a 'dry run' it seems like the length of the HEL lines will be fine, especially if I route them to the right of the horn bracket etc (2 lines, not 3).
I'm waiting on getting the nerve to attempt tapping the bars in order to use the stock bar ends.... And drilling the holes for the switchgear in the right places. Gulp! The tap has arrived (~£9.50 Amazon), but Brave Pill, and clear head, needed!
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The bar ends must be different than the gen2, that has a rubber insert moulded in to end of the bar, I couldn't get them out and bought some renthal bar ends which look neat but are to light,so much so I had to put some grip puppies on to get rid of some vibration,they work ok but look a bit thick on the bars.Those holes you drill for the switchgear are a nightmare to get bang on,well,they were for me,I remember looking at a u/tube video and the bloke who was doing the job didn't bother drilling the bars,instead he put some form of thick tape under the switchgear and tightened them up!Didn't fancy that at all and I was glad I persevered with the holes,best of luck. :lol
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Yeh the original Yamaha 'ends seem lovely and heavy. I wonder if I wreck the Renthals trying to tap them will some aftermarket 'expanding' type still fit..?
I've got a cheap pillar drill in the garage which will hopefully do the switchgear holes, if I can manage to mark the right spot. I'm just putting it off really!
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Wish Id thought to look on the forum before I ordered a full set of HEL for my Gen 1 earlier this year, at full cost.
And on a related note, I wish I had spoken to Suzuki before buying a full set of lines from Hel. Arseholes would only sell me a full 7x hose kit (Was £170, now £230) when all I needed was a 3 hose kit (was £70, now £98). Their pointless full kit replaced 3x combined hard/soft lines going to and from the ABS unit and under the bottom yoke on my bandit 1250. Never again will I buy a kit direct or otherwise from them.
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Similar story for my Blackbird, -11 lines -~£290 :eek -'Dual CBS Brakes'.
I'd like to do it one day, but still running the originals.
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Yeh the original Yamaha 'ends seem lovely and heavy. I wonder if I wreck the Renthals trying to tap them will some aftermarket 'expanding' type still fit..?
I've got a cheap pillar drill in the garage which will hopefully do the switchgear holes, if I can manage to mark the right spot. I'm just putting it off really!
I haven't done it myself but I have had 2 lots of renthals tapped out by a local workshop without issue so shouldn't be a problem. I would try mounting the switchgear without drilling holes I never had to as I beleive that the locating pin is plastic and will just compress down onto the bar either that or I took a bit off the end, either way I've not had any issue with the unit slipping. It will take you a while to find the bar position and switch position that suits you so drilling a hole 'on spec' will envitably not be where you end up wanting it.
/EDIT: ***** auto format. In addition to what I already posted when I originally installed the bars and had them where I thought I'd want them after 10 minutes riding I got really bad wrist ache and it did take a number of attempts to get everything set up so it was comfortable so I'd definately advise against drilling the bars for the switchgear mount.
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On the Renthal tapping subject, Flooky of this parish, tapped his without a problem. Whereas I took mine to an engineering place who pre-drilled the ends before tapping them and charged me about the same price as the bars. Gutted. Providing you can get them in a vice without marking them you should be fine.
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Yeh the original Yamaha 'ends seem lovely and heavy. I wonder if I wreck the Renthals trying to tap them will some aftermarket 'expanding' type still fit..?
I've got a cheap pillar drill in the garage which will hopefully do the switchgear holes, if I can manage to mark the right spot. I'm just putting it off really!
Don't know if the gen1 bars are the same but the I.D. of the gen2 bars are bigger than the renthals and the renthal bar ends I've got don't fit the std bars,they're to small,the expanding part even on full is to small and you can just pull them out.
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The inside diameter of the 758's is 14mm, and the thread for the screw in bar end weights on a Gen 1 is 16mm @16tpi. The weights on that model are nice and heavy at 308 grams and would be quite expensive to get after market of the same weight. Threading the bar ends is the stumbling block that puts some owners off using the stock weights.
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Similar story for my Blackbird, -11 lines -~£290 :eek -'Dual CBS Brakes'.I'd like to do it one day, but still running the originals.
Check with Honda which hoses actually need replacing, don't be pressured into replacing all of them if you don't need to.
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I drilled and tapped mine no problem. Used a workmate to hold them firm. The 'drilling' was done by hand (masonry drill bit held in mole grips) - more of a reaming process really than drilling. Very little material has to be removed - I think some have managed to tap them without drilling at all, but I found it easier to ream them a bit first.
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So the tapping went well :)
Lots of oil, and just wound it in, bars mounted on the bike, backing off a bit every half turn or so, and checking left/right up/down alignment regularly. The aluminium is surprising soft and easy to work with.
Bar ends fitted lovely!
I marked the positions for the switchgear holes, covered them in a few layers of sellotape, drilled a small pilot hole, followed by the actual drill size I wanted.
Again no problem at all, no slipping, don't know what I was worried about!
PS don't pick up the oily ally swarf with the Mrs' mini-Dyson. Looks like I may be buying a new one of those, Doh!