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Messages - Triggergee
101
« on: 13 April 2018, 08:59:25 am »
I'd recommend the yss ones from wemoto, good price and they seem to be doing a great job
102
« on: 13 April 2018, 08:57:22 am »
its nice to still see thou's of this caliber and milage, if mine every get smashed I know I can still replace it with like for like.
There is an impressive looking bike on eBay right now with a LOADS! of mods, usd ohlin forks, wavy discs and more but it is yellow... as for the one listed in this post, hands off! I'm having it!
103
« on: 12 April 2018, 01:39:03 pm »
I had this problem a few days ago after doing the fork mod.
All you need to do is once the damper rod is screwed in and your getting no movement re-fit the fork into the bottom yoke and tighten it up.
Using a rubber mallet or a small block of wood and a hammer gently tap down on the brake calliper mounting lug or on the side of the fork where the dust seal is and it will free up.
When it's stuck you'll have the white plastic bit jammed into the bottom fork upper/stanchion like in the first picture and you need to tap it out like in the second pic. It jams in very easily so be really careful not to push the stanchion down into the slider as you assemble everything.
104
« on: 12 April 2018, 01:21:28 pm »
That's good to here. Hope when I get up to you next week the weather stays good! What's the wire zip tied to the pillion foot peg mount? Battery charger?
105
« on: 10 April 2018, 09:51:47 am »
Stunning bike! I'm very tempted
106
« on: 06 April 2018, 04:57:45 pm »
Massive thank you to kebab19 for your original post and tommyardin for all your help. I finished putting it all together yesterday with new oil seals, dust seals, modded damper rods, 15w oil, linear springs and the cartridge emulators and took it for a 40-50 mile spin today and what a difference! I don't feel like I'm bobbing up and down all the time or nose diving under braking, feels responsive and stable but still has nice damping for bumps and pot holes. I does seem to have highlighted the poor rear shock though as the front feels solid but the back wants to bounce me off although that might be as I've got the preload set to 6 not the standard 4 as I've often got a pillion.
Next ride I'll drop the preload on the shock to 4 and possibly the preload on the forks just a touch and see if it's more balanced.
Great mod and I'd highly recommend this to anyone confident enough to give it a go.
107
« on: 06 April 2018, 04:41:32 pm »
Why not just get a 125 
108
« on: 04 April 2018, 06:52:22 pm »
109
« on: 04 April 2018, 06:04:02 pm »
110
« on: 04 April 2018, 04:56:07 pm »
111
« on: 04 April 2018, 08:10:18 am »
Going back to the mixing recommendations, if say I had road smarts on front and rear and had a peace of metal stuck in the front tyre causing a slow puncture would I be better off putting another road smart on there or switch to the pr3?
112
« on: 03 April 2018, 10:20:38 pm »
Bad news foccers, 17 tooth doesn't fit  chain just not quite long enough. I'll contact JT at some point and see if I can get extra links for the chain.
113
« on: 03 April 2018, 10:15:37 pm »
I'd use whichever one is newest, but what do I know.  Ya can't beat a good ol' fashioned grease thread on thi the forum.
Haha great no idea which one is newest, all tubs left by my girlfriends ex which probably means I should have either thrown them out already or at the very least pissed on them all to assert my manliness and claim them as my own... thought about trying that on the missus just to be safe but I value my life somewhat so eventually decided against it.
114
« on: 03 April 2018, 04:21:19 pm »
As we seem to be discussing it here and I'm about to do the fork mod which means wheel and speed sensor removal, which if any of these three greases should I use on the speed sensor? Silkolene RG2, Duckhams LB10 or Duckhams LBM 10? Please no one say none of the above
115
« on: 31 March 2018, 02:23:37 pm »
17 tooth sprocket arrived today, big bastered... as soon as it stops raining I'll attempt to fit it and let you all know my opinion.
116
« on: 28 March 2018, 11:32:10 pm »
if you go D.I.D you can buy extra links which of course need a rivet tool to fit, if you already have a d.i.d then a rivet remover can be used to remove old and replace more links
I've got a sealey chain tool although like a tit I snapped the one of the pins on its first use as I didn't notice the the chain rivet wasn't fitting through the anvil and kept cranking on the ratchet until it pinged... and a JT chain, 530 Z3? maybe so I'll have a look tomorrow to see if I can get extra links for that. Wonder what rpm it would be at on the motorway at "legal" speed limit
117
« on: 28 March 2018, 10:57:47 pm »
Didn't really think about chain length.. idiot. I've got four notches/lines to play with but I'm not sure that will be enough. I may or may not buy a new chain if it doesn't fit. Is there a cheap way to lengthen the chain?
118
« on: 28 March 2018, 08:37:11 pm »
Mine vibrates a fair bit at that rpm too so much so that for the missus sake I've wrapped a bicycle inner tube around the pillion handle, don't know if my carbs need balancing but I've just bought a Morgan carb tune so I'll know soon enough. In the interest of serving the community I've just ordered a +2 17 tooth sprocket and will let you all know how it feels. Should do good things for fuel consumption and hopefully keep the other half quiet.
119
« on: 27 March 2018, 10:35:08 pm »
I looked for the part number but couldn't find it but looks like others did I feel very lucky to live about 3 minutes away from fowlers so I just pop in and get the guys to find the part number for me
120
« on: 27 March 2018, 07:09:56 pm »
Finally drilled out the damper rods today, possibly not as cleanly as I would've liked but I don't think that matters as long as the measurements are right which they are and any swarf or debris is cleaned away which it is. Considering changing the oil seals as I bought them with the dust seals so I might wait until I've put together a seal driving tool before fitting the mod.
121
« on: 25 March 2018, 05:47:49 pm »
I've got paraffin in a garden spray bottle and one of those spiral/cork screw chain brushes (very good!). I just prop some cardboard between the wheel and rear sprocket. Works very well and is as cheap as it comes.
122
« on: 23 March 2018, 08:42:47 pm »
Really appreciate your help on this tommyardin! Going fine so far, got the two existing holes drilled out to 8mm but needed to go out to buy a new 10mm bit. The emulators are a pretty good fit on the rods but do have a little wiggle room, maybe a mil or two but I guess the springs hold them down enough to make a good seal. I've set them to 2.5 turns from initial spring contact. So just drop them down the tubes and they should slot on nicely... as soon as the new dust seals come I'll drive the bike into my kitchen (don't have a garage) and swap everything over then ill start wondering how to mod the rear shock
123
« on: 22 March 2018, 10:03:56 am »
I'm now nearly at the point of making a start and am just waiting for new dust seals and oil to arrive. One thing which I've been wondering though is if there is a particular way of getting the emulators seated properly on the damper rods once the forks are full of oil? perhaps it's just a case of chucking them down the tube and agitating them with the spring? I'm also assuming the oil goes in before the emulators?
124
« on: 21 March 2018, 08:28:35 am »
Thanks for that link bandit, just ordered it and saved £2 from the eBay price I was about to pay...
125
« on: 21 March 2018, 08:17:27 am »
I suppose that should be fine. I've never posted outside of uk so will need to check times and costs etc. If you would like to pm me your address for me to check I'll get back to you. If you'd like any more details or pictures let me know
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