The battery was fitted the other day, and yes short journeys It's been roughly 10 mile round trips daily to work don't get out much due to winter weather. Waiting on new air filter, pipes and filter shouldn't affect starting up though?
Just make sure you only do one thing at a time otherwise it can confuse matters.And make a log of any changes you do for future reference.
Note that there is meant to be a drain hole at the bottom of the exhaust can. It’s there to drain condensation out.
when you say small hole at base of exhaust - do you have the factory exhaust on there and do you mean at the lowest/most forward part of the silencer - i think that one is meant to be there for drainage - i noticed that hole once i realized how fucked the insides were as i was getting a lot of escaping gasses through it
(Apologies Disorderlypunk, I didn’t notice you’d already made the point about the drain hole.)The innards of the silencer are mild steel and rot through at the base so the gases can blow out of the gap around the pipe where it enters the stainless can. You may be able to bodge it by squishing in as much high temperature silicone sealant as possible. I got a couple of extra years life out of mine that way.Having said that, I doubt it’s the cause of your running issue which sounds much more like an electrical problem to me.
Quote from: Fazerider on 07 December 2017, 10:42:16 pm(Apologies Disorderlypunk, I didn’t notice you’d already made the point about the drain hole.)The innards of the silencer are mild steel and rot through at the base so the gases can blow out of the gap around the pipe where it enters the stainless can. You may be able to bodge it by squishing in as much high temperature silicone sealant as possible. I got a couple of extra years life out of mine that way.Having said that, I doubt it’s the cause of your running issue which sounds much more like an electrical problem to me.What should I look at electrically, like the ECU and fuses? The bike does want to start though indoors, but is very hesitant in the cold like it's stalling and putting out a couple of rpm. Wouldn't an electrical fault prevent bump starts too?
Well my new filter arrives tomorrow and I will fit that first see how things go before checking other things. I have a Haynes workshop manual so will reference that when checking the electrical stuff. You might be right about the air filter being the source, I bought a new one couple of weeks ago a DNA filter but didn't realise it was a high performance one something like 60% more air intake and with the bike being restricted it didn't like it too well lots of lurching and exhaust popping I then removed that and put the old air filter back in when I got a new battery a few days ago and that's when my starting/running problems came back the old battery was basically dead so that was the reason then, but with me having put the old air filter back in I've likely reintroduced the same problem. I changed plugs/carb rubbers and air filter all at once and it ran great but with the minor lurches and bad fuel/air ratio. Will take your advice on focusing 1 thing at a time. *EDIT: It's a stock air filter I've bought this time