Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: SteveMc278 on 04 October 2014, 07:29:43 pm
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Can anyone give me some guidelines on methods/materials/tools to use for cleaning rust off/then pre-treating/then painting - parts of the metal frame, metal nuts and bolts & any other metal on the bike including exhaust header bolts? Plus the same kind of question for chipped fairing plastic (but obviously that's a lot easier)?
In short - as long as any exposed spots are completely clean/free of dirt and rust then I assume my new paint emulsion will be durable. Question is - how do I get to that point in which these surfaces are completely clean?
Nut and bolt strip down would be the 'extreme' solution ;) but am not going down that route :D.
Cheers
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I've always used krust on mine as per the instructions, and the results have been fine.
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Google ., rust and electrolosis
Then...
A good paint adhesion will only occur if the surface is clean, totally, of grease dirt and any chemicals from cleaners. Also, the surface should be keyed or scuffed. Primer helps but not essential depending on paint used.
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A bit of a sand to smooth the surface then a couple of coats of hammerite (they do a coloured paint that now neutralises rust).
Worked a treat on my frame/front engine mounts.
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Thanks for replies.
Will Muc Off spray degreaser do it or is there something better I should use?
What grade sand paper? The finest available?
Hammerite paint might be too sticky when dry so which black, gloss frame paint will dry hard?
And exhaust header studs and bolts - what could I use to help dissolve the rust? Headers were off recently and studs looked in good nick but its the bolts which need cleaning up.
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Mr muscle oven cleaner foam. Spray. Leave overnight. Wash off with bucket of water+ egg cup of washing up liquid mixed in. . Clean when plenty of water.. Jetspray in close... Leave to dry. Repeat the clean water jetspray. Leave to dry.
Ready !
Anyway WTF with cleaning header bolts. No foccers can see them. Get a life
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" Anyway WTF with cleaning header bolts. No foccers can see them. Get a life" ....... if thats your way of thinking, when did you last clean your arse???? :\
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" Anyway WTF with cleaning header bolts. No foccers can see them. Get a life" ....... if thats your way of thinking, when did you last clean your arse???? :\
LMFAO :rollin :rollin :rollin
An excellent point and well presented as always Doddsie.
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" Anyway WTF with cleaning header bolts. No foccers can see them. Get a life" ....... if thats your way of thinking, when did you last clean your arse???? :\
unlike you... I can't see my focin arse... Tit
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:rolleyes
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Thanks for replies.
Will Muc Off spray degreaser do it or is there something better I should use?
What grade sand paper? The finest available?
Hammerite paint might be too sticky when dry so which black, gloss frame paint will dry hard?
And exhaust header studs and bolts - what could I use to help dissolve the rust? Headers were off recently and studs looked in good nick but its the bolts which need cleaning up.
Hammerite is actually much better than you may think, and could be perfect for this job.
Depending on how bad the rust is, just use whatever grade sand paper, or even wet 'n' dry paper, to remove as much rust as possible then paint over.
Be very careful if considering using a jet wash, it blasts engine paint off quite easily, and that's from personal experience.
http://www.hammerite.co.uk/guide/direct_to_rust_metal_paint_smooth_finish.jsp (http://www.hammerite.co.uk/guide/direct_to_rust_metal_paint_smooth_finish.jsp)
http://www.hammerite.co.uk/guide/direct_to_rust_metal_paint_aerosol_smooth_finish.jsp (http://www.hammerite.co.uk/guide/direct_to_rust_metal_paint_aerosol_smooth_finish.jsp)
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Used hammerite to touch up bits of my frame and is almost a perfect match, think I went for the less glossy one.
Has set rock solid and isn't a problem.
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I did my wheels and bits of frame 4 years ago with smoothrite gloss black rattle cans. I cleaned with mucoff then set about offending areas with paraffin and a tooth brush then attacked with a small wire brush then smoothed with 250 grit wet n dry, another wipe over with panel degreaser to make sure no oily finger prints left on surface then sprayed, no need for primer with this paint. Still looks good and shiny. Don't put much on each coat as it will run, build up in thin coats.
Hope this helps, worked for me.
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I always finish off my surface perparation with Scotchbrite pads, rather than wet & dry, or sandpaper. They don't leave the same amount of residue on the surface and seem to smooth things better, especially old paint surfaces, without being too aggressive.
Agree on the Hammerite smooth - brilliant stuff - used it lots over the last 30 years of tinkering/restoring; nothing like the old rubbery/hammered finish of the original Hammerite paint.