Author Topic: Square to Foxeye Fairing Mod (Read 18740 times)

davec · « **on:** 10 November 2012, 05:04:14 pm »

Has anyone on here actually done this?I am just about to embark on this modification and would be interested to hear how you went about the headlight wiring as the two looms are completely different as are the fitments in the back of the headlight.The rest of it I'm happy with but electrics are not my strong point.I would be grateful for any information.Thanks.

Dead Eye · « **Reply #1 on:** 10 November 2012, 06:16:49 pm »

A couple of people have asked whether its possible or not in the past but no one has actually posted back saying if they had ever managed it. It was something I was curious about but never got round to it. If you do do it, a guide / How To would be greatly appreciated by myself and many others but obviously that's your call. As for electronics, they aren't my strong suit either

unfazed · « **Reply #2 on:** 10 November 2012, 07:11:06 pm »

It is possible and relatively easy, but not sure it is worth the expense. You will need the fairing, headlight unit, mounting bracket, left & right infills, the side fairing brackets and if possible a fox eye headlight loom to modify to fit the older loom. The foxeye model uses 2 relays to control the headlights, a make/break relay controlled by the right handle bar switch and and a change over relay powered from the contacts of the make/break relay and controlled by dimmer switch on the left bar.
Just be aware also that there is an uprated alternator and different rectifier/regulator on the foxeye models to cater for the higher output of the alternator. See difference below.
The 1998 /1999 Squareye

charging output is 12 volts 18 Amps at 5000 rpm
The 2000/2001 Squareye charging output is 14 volts 18 Amps at 5000 rpm
The foxeye 2002/2003 charging output is 14 volts 21 Amps at 5000 rpm
Might even be cheaper to sell your own and buy a foxeye model

davec · « **Reply #3 on:** 10 November 2012, 08:55:43 pm »

Thanks for the replies.I now have most of the parts, so it's just down to the wiring and whether I can adapt the original loom or if I will need the Foxeye loom and adapt that or maybe an amalgamation of the two.I may even need the handle bar switches from the foxeye as well.It has been done as I have read on the old site, but the detail on the electrics are a bit unclear. Unfazed thanks for the technical details I'm hoping not to have to start mucking around with the alternator and regulator and Deadeye when I get it done I will put up a detailed how to guide.

unfazed · « **Reply #4 on:** 10 November 2012, 10:44:35 pm »

Believe it or not, the alternator and regulator would be the easiest thing to change

Using the fox headlight loom and splicing the headlight section into the squareye loom would be the best thing to do as you could utilise the relays of the foxeye. You may need to run and extra wire to the fuesd headlight wire in the box under the tank. You should not have to change the switches but maybe modify the plugs in the box under the tank.. I posted the wiring diagrams of the 4 fazers models, the 1997/1998 Fazer 400 and the 1998/1999, 2000/2001 and 2002/2003 Fazer 600s in Downloads » Manuals » Fazer 600 » Fazer 400 and 600 models Wiring digrams. Might be usefull to compare the different versions.

davec · « **Reply #5 on:** 11 November 2012, 09:26:10 am »

I think you're right they would be the easiest part of the job to sort if you were going to do it.Just another added cost that can hopefully be avoided.I have a Haynes manual with the wiring diagrams for the different models, but I will check out the wiring diagrams you have uploaded.It's going to be one of those jobs that unfolds and gets sorted as I go along.

Fazerider · « **Reply #6 on:** 11 November 2012, 09:49:24 am »

Adapting the existing wiring should be much simpler and cheaper than stripping out the entire loom/generator/regulator.
Run in an extra 20A fused cable to carry power to the first relay, the coil of which should be energised by the feed that used to go to the left hand (dip) lamp... that then (when you turn on the headlight switch) supplies the next relay which is controlled by the wire that used to feed the right-hand (main) beam and directs the power to the dip or main filaments.
It's something I'll be doing shortly to my own '98 Fazer as the existing long cable run through multiple switches and connectors causes a fair old voltage drop. Of course, the bulbs won't last quite as long when running at full output, but the extra light should be noticeable.

davec · « **Reply #7 on:** 11 November 2012, 03:06:18 pm »

Thanks Fazerider all of this information is going to be very handy. As I said electrics are not my strong point so I need to keep it simple but make sure it works properly.

unfazed · « **Reply #8 on:** 11 November 2012, 06:30:00 pm »

What ever way you do it make sure you use relays to take the load off the switches.
The advantage of using the foxeye loom is that all the connection and relays are already made up and will be neat and tidy and should require the mimimum changes.

davec · « **Reply #9 on:** 11 November 2012, 07:25:16 pm »

I will get and use the foxeye headlight wiring loom as it has the relays and the headlight connectors. Then I'll look at splicing it to the original headlight loom.The sidelights will need adapting as the foxeye has two and the square eye only has one. I'm guessing some of the connectors on the foxeye loom will be redundant ie the clock connector and the indicator wires and a couple of wiring blocks.As I've said electrics are really not my bag so any advice is and will be gratefully received.

limax2 · « **Reply #10 on:** 11 November 2012, 08:38:12 pm »

I have done it on a 1998 model. Didn't change the alternator or regulater and had no problems, but that bike doesn't do much town work so battery always kept well charged. I don't think it will be a problem unless you regularly spend a lot of time in town traffic.
Appart from the brackets previously mentioned on here you will need to make a couple of brackets for the fairing rear side fixings. That is because the brackets on the frame are in a different position to the foxeye model. I didn't need to change any switches or existing connectors, other than the headlamp socket for the three pin bulb in place of the two pin bulb. If I remember right I connected a control wire to main beam relay from the connector under the tank that is described in the Headlight mod article on this site. The pilot light holders came with the foxeye stuff I got, so that was just a simple wiring mod to wire them in.
I have a wiring diagram I did at the time, but unfortunatly won't be able to get it and post it on here for a couple of weeks, sorry. From what I remember it was very much as Fazerider outlined. Especially running a fused live feed to the relays.
I didn't have a foxeye loom so I used a three pin socket from a car loom for the headlight bulb. I also used a couple of standard relays from Maplin which are commonly used on cars.

davec · « **Reply #11 on:** 11 November 2012, 10:02:45 pm »

Thanks for the reply Limax.A wiring diagram would be a great help. I'm going to be sorting the Fairing out to be sprayed over the next couple of weeks and making up some brackets for the rear mounts.Did you use the original rear Foxeye mounting brackets and attach them to something you made up or did you make the mounting brackets from scratch? I won't be tackling the wiring for a while so If you could post the wiring diagram I would very much appreciate it.

limax2 · « **Reply #12 on:** 13 November 2012, 03:22:04 pm »

I used the foxeye rear brackets and attached them to brackets I made. The brackets I made bolted to the original brackets welded on the Mk1 frame, and I think to the horn bracket on the left. On the right I seem to remember there was also a bracket welded on near the front that I also used. (Not sure if it's for the infill panel on the Mk1???). The bracket on the right I made also carried the two relays, one for dip and one for main beam. I should still have some photo's of it which I will post up, when I get back to base. The wiring diagram I did just shows the extra wiring and connections etc. so is easy to follow and should be useful.

davec · « **Reply #13 on:** 13 November 2012, 07:21:20 pm »

Thanks Limax. That's what I thought about doing, making a bracket to attach to the foxeye rear mounting bracket and the original mountings on the frame.Do you think the foxeye headlight wiring loom could be used as it already has the relays and bulb connectors and just leave the other connectors on the loom like the clocks redundant or would it be easier to start from scratch?Photos would be great if you have them.

limax2 · « **Reply #14 on:** 13 November 2012, 09:40:31 pm »

I'm working from memory here so bear that in mind. The foxeye (Mk2) relays work in a different way to how I modified the Mk1. On the Mk2 a relay controls headlight power, on or off, to a second relay which controls high beam or dip beam. I found it easier to to have a live feed to each of two relays, one for high beam and one for dip. These relays controled by the high/low switch on the handlebar. When I eventually post the wiring diagram it will be clearer and details the relays I used.
If you do it the way I did it I don't think the foxeye headlamp loom will be much use other than for a few connectors, such as headlamp bulb connector and maybe the connectors to the pilot light wiring. I think the pilot light bulb holders are on a seperate bit of wiring, but they certainly would be handy to have. I don't think you would be able to use foxeye relays or the relay sockets if you do it my way. I mounted the relays using the small brackets that came with them and push on connectors for the wires.
If you have a foxeye headlamp loom and the relays with it you may choose to do it the foxeye way. However I seem to remember that would involved changes to the main wiring loom of the Mk1, which could be why I adopted a different approach.
To be continued

.

davec · « **Reply #15 on:** 13 November 2012, 10:14:28 pm »

Keeping it simple is what I want!Adapting the main loom seems like a potential headache.I have the pilot bulb holders they came with the headlight as luck would have it. I'm thinking your way is now tried and tested and seems the way to go.

limax2 · « **Reply #16 on:** 25 November 2012, 02:34:03 pm »

Finally made it back to home base so hopefully here is the long awaited wiring diagram.

limax2 · « **Reply #17 on:** 25 November 2012, 03:09:38 pm »

On the diagram above I'm affraid the colours don't show very well, which would have made it a bit easier to follow. What looks like dashed lines, at least on my computer, is where yellow has hardly shown at all. Obviously the actual colour you use is not important, but it makes the job a bit easier if you have different colours for specific parts. Black is normally for earth connections and the rest were just what I happened to have in the right sort of size.
If you read the diagram in conjuction with the Mk1 standard wiring diagram you will see the original black/blue wire to the left head light is no longer used. (This normally provides a permanent feed for dip when the right side switch is in headlight on position). The feed for dip is now from the green wire feed into the blue connector block, in the black box under the tank. Well shown in this posting http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,181.0.html . You probably knew that already so I will stop rambling on, any questions just ask.

limax2 · « **Reply #18 on:** 25 November 2012, 03:31:09 pm »

Here are the photo's of the fairing mounting brackets I made on the bike. Having looked at my mk1 I now see there are two mountings for the fairing on each side welded to the frame. These are the one's I used, not the horn mounting bracket that I mentioned earlier. The strip material I used for the make up brackets was 16mm x 2.5mm mild steel. (Recycled Upvc door looks, scrap metal to most locksmiths

). These brackets then provided the rear mounting points for the Mk2 fairing rear brackets and also for the two relays. With the fairing and inner panels in place the relays and wiring are covered and hidden from view. Heat shrink tubing is good for making a neater job of the new wiring. Along with the relays it is available from Maplin and other places.

limax2 · « **Reply #19 on:** 25 November 2012, 03:45:46 pm »

While I'm on a roll with the photo's here is a 1998 FZS600 on the left with the foxeye's and a 2001 square eye on the right for comparison

.

Fazerider · « **Reply #20 on:** 25 November 2012, 05:59:20 pm »

That's a nice neat job (and very clean bikes too).
Ignore my method Davec, I happened to have some SPDT relays so came up with a scheme that made use of the double throw. Limax2's plan is better because the current only flows through a single set of contacts rather than two the way I was going to do things.

davec · « **Reply #21 on:** 25 November 2012, 10:53:06 pm »

Thanks Limax. I will look at it in detail tomorrow. I have had the fairing repaired and sprayed and I'm collecting it tomorrow. I've got the headlight as well and I'm just waiting for some fittings from AJ Sutton, I'll then start to assemble it.Can I use any H4 3 pin bulb connectors?I've seen these on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290729774870?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 or would you recommend something different?

Fazerider · « **Reply #22 on:** 26 November 2012, 12:29:48 am »

Those bulb connectors look very like the ones I bought... the leads supplied were only 9" long.

limax2 · « **Reply #23 on:** 26 November 2012, 10:30:47 am »

I got the H4 3 pin connectors from stock at my local car accessary shop. (He's a bit of a classic car type, so I don't know if that helped). I can't remember how long the leads were but I probably had to extend them to reach the relays where I mounted them. Some types of connector have the wires comming straight out and others at 90 degrees, but I think there is enough room so it doesn't matters which type you use for this job.
The pilot light is not shown on my wiring diagram, but it's just a case of connecting into the existing pilot wire for the two pilots on the foxeye light. The pilot bulb holders are different but I think you said you had them for the foxeye so no problem there.
Nice job for the bad weather.

davec · « **Reply #24 on:** 26 November 2012, 06:24:43 pm »

Thanks for your time Limax. The wiring diagram is a great help.How did you run the blue wire going to the +ive on the battery?Did you just use an inline fuse and run the wire under the tank straight onto the battery?Did you cut the connectors off the ends of the pilot wires on the headlight and from the pilot on the harness and reconnect them all together with a connector block?I know this may all sound very basic but I'm just trying to get it all straight in my head.