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Messages - the cueball
1
« on: 26 January 2022, 06:49:49 pm »
2
« on: 24 January 2022, 10:57:13 am »
Decided to try this yesterday as I was giving the bike and service anyway.
Ended up using the welder for the sides and bottom but couldn't get to the top of the exhaust as obviously the engine/bike was in the way, so used the JB Weld on that bit.
No leaks, all seems fine for now.
A bit nerve racking using the welder for the first time.. but I think I done OK, although it'll never win any beauty prizes.. but it'll be covered in road grime by the end of the week and won't be seen!
I think I'm been rather unkind to my little Donkey, as I ride it all year in all weather and clean it once a year and stick some ACF50 on it.
The exhaust does not look like it's going to come off without a huge fight at the headers, and I really don't have the time/desire to get into that right now..
One my Pan Euro refurb is complete I may do one on the Donkey too.. it's been very good and has never let me down despite the miles and abuse I throw at it...
3
« on: 21 January 2022, 12:41:45 pm »
4
« on: 19 January 2022, 11:19:21 am »
Errr... yeah that's a pretty obvious place to clamp now that you mention it...  Sometimes you just need someone with fresh eyes! Cheers..
5
« on: 19 January 2022, 10:14:45 am »
Morning All, I have discovered a small split/cut on the underside of the exhaust, on the downpipe side rather than the end can section.. if you know what I mean.. so closer to the front of the bike. I don't want it to turn into a drama so i don't want to try and remove the downpipes at this moment in time...  I'm thinking either JB weld.. or... because I've just got a new cheap welder, to try and weld it?? Does anyone know if it's OK to weld an exhaust without taking it off the bike? not sure where/how to earth it properly.. or if it will destroy the bike.. I guess disconnecting the battery and a minimum...??
6
« on: 19 January 2022, 09:07:31 am »
Couldn't happen to a better company.. bunch of fucking arseholes.
They refused to recover my bike home when I had a rear blowout as... and I quote several managers, including a senior one: "I haven't bothered to use my spare wheel which should be done in the first instance"
Many complaints and fighting later, I got a refund, a payout, my phone bill paid and my pregnant Mrs got a bunch of flowers and sorry for upsetting her!
Obviously, sorry to whose are having to shell out for more insurance... try Bemoto.. been with them for 7 years now and happy with their service and cover.
7
« on: 16 January 2022, 06:23:16 pm »
Changed some broken indicators and extra lights, gave it an oil change and fork oil change too. Had a nice wee afternoon tinkering away, haven’t done it for a while… The bike isn’t glued to the wall btw… Not sure why it’s turned round… 
8
« on: 04 November 2021, 04:21:57 pm »
ehhh... I'll be riding mine as usual....it had a going over with ACF50 a couple of years ago.. and that's about it..
9
« on: 11 August 2021, 03:35:57 pm »
10
« on: 07 August 2021, 05:03:21 pm »
Sounds like it could be jammed in the down position… a right pain in the backside!
Happened to me once and I’ve been mega careful ever since..
11
« on: 26 July 2021, 01:45:20 pm »
Hooray the donkey survived lol
P and P......... penetrating fluid, and persistence works 99% of the time
Yup, and a deep breath needed too! Glad the wee bike is back to full health, I got it as a stop gap 6 years now and it's just so good I've never got rid of it. Just back from a weekend away on one of my others bikes - a Kawasaki H2 SX... and happy to just back on the ol' trusty Donkey to ride into work today... lol I'm soo weird...
12
« on: 19 July 2021, 02:16:55 pm »
I'm back on the daily commute with mine... gave the calipers a rebuild last weekend and charged the battery a little bit.. all good to go again!
13
« on: 13 July 2021, 04:59:59 pm »
rear caliper upgrade?
Cheaper carb rubbers?
14
« on: 11 July 2021, 07:01:49 am »
Yeah, blue dot to match the front ones.
You don’t need a new disc… that stays the same as you’re still using the 600 wheel….
Of course you can get a new one for the upgrade… but make sure it’s a 600 one, not a Thou.
Only the pads need changed to match the caliper.
15
« on: 09 July 2021, 11:56:23 am »
You need to cut out a bit of caliper hanger for it to physically fit - I used a Dremel style tool and just ground away, it's pretty easy, don't go in with a sledgehammer attitude...
I have a couple of thin spacers at the bolts to line up properly... this may or may not be 100% required.
Pads have to match the caliper.
Nothing else needs changed.
Think the year is early 2000's... the blue dot one, on a few different bikes as well if you don't fancy the "thou premium"
16
« on: 29 June 2021, 10:04:40 am »
Had the cheap ones on the bike for over 3 years now (used and left outside all winter) and they are still holding up well.
Need to be mental to pay £80 for them IMO..
17
« on: 17 May 2021, 08:29:20 am »
I’ve literally just had this on my bike (thread in here too).
Watch the middle Allen bolt, it’s a nightmare.
There isn’t much room for any of it tbh, but with some patience (swearing) I got everything done without the need to remove anything else.
Nice big spanners for the top/bottom bolts. I would suggest some penetration fluid for the middle one...at the very least!
I managed to find a second hand original pipe, cleaned it up and repainted. I also bought the eBay flexible version for future in case it fails.
18
« on: 02 May 2021, 05:08:45 pm »
Sooo.... had a couple of days spraying PB Blaster on it.
Hammered in a Torx head, prayed to the 2 wheeled gods and crack!
Out it came.
New (old) pipe on within 10 minutes, quick oil service done too and the ‘Lil donkey is as good as gold!
New screw on order too...
Thanks for all the help and ideas...
:thumb:
19
« on: 26 April 2021, 09:39:51 am »
Cheers.. I'll give anything a try at this point...
Don't want to dismantle the bike for that little screw FFS! lol
20
« on: 25 April 2021, 07:09:39 pm »
Sooo, this may be the final nail for my little fazer AKA the golden donkey...
Oil return pipe on the front of the engine has burst, 3 or 4 pin holes in it.
I’ve managed to source one off eBay, so went to change it today.
Someone has already been there and rounded off the Allen screw in the middle of the pipe.
The access is shocking.... it’s an engine out job I’m guessing to even try to fix?!?
Has anyone managed to deal with this in situ???
21
« on: 21 October 2020, 11:19:22 am »
I had similar a few months ago.. the bike would bog down when I tried to accelerate to overtake a car for example.
I traced it back to loose HT leads as darrsi has already suggested below.
22
« on: 01 October 2020, 01:14:30 pm »
Metzeler Roadtec Z8 interact on mine, running the standard pressures.
23
« on: 28 September 2020, 10:51:02 am »
yep, im gonna guess you didnt release the adjuster when you fitted the new clutch cable and as its new its shorter so is affectively being pulled all the time, just release the adjuster and start the set up again by tightening the screw untill about right then any more adjustments can be done at the lever end..
Rodger that, cheers... thought it would be something stupid (i.e. me)
24
« on: 28 September 2020, 10:44:58 am »
Rather than start a new thread, I thought I would just jump on here as I'm pretty sure this is what I need to do as well... but I'll check:
I changed my clutch line yesterday... all went well, no issues.
I thought I had the adjustment correct as the lever "felt good"...
Went to ride my bike to work today, clutch in, first gear, clutch out...and out...and ALLLL the way out and the bike didn't move... no drive at all
I'm guessing (hoping) that I bolloxed up the sprocket end adjustment as I basically made the adjusting screw as tight as I could... so just need to let it out a bit??
Cheers!
25
« on: 04 October 2019, 11:36:29 am »
Brakes are exactly the same on all the FZS600 from 1998 to 2003
good stuff... gold goldie stuff for me then!
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