Date: 01-05-24  Time: 12:39 pm

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Messages - fazerbcn

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You were absolutely right, please accept my most sincere appologies... I hear K&N and I don't really think on oil filters... And as you use oil on the air filter, thus my confusion, apologies...


30 years ago there were people saying that hiflofiltro were blocking and causing engine failures, never saw any one failing, changed a lot of them on several SR250, but got a lot of thoughts about it every time I was holding one of them on my hands...


I would be more worried by the fact that K&N does not like the standard housing, and you need a different tool to remove and fit it...


I have only changed oil filter once on the Fazer (lately), and I reckon that the price from Yamaha to any other is totally marginal once you do the change yourself...
£6 for an hiflofiltro, and £17 for a Yamaha, £14 for the K&N
Taking into account that the K&N price is similar to the Yamaha, why bothering? I would understand considering the cheaper one instead, and then start complaining about breakages...
Also I totally understand the "performance" for an air filter, as it is inline with how the machine works, but these days, and with the bike at this age, I am much worried that the oil pipe in front of the barrels does not fall apart by rust, much more than a freshly bought oil filter, no matter the brand...



I will doubt that any decent factory (any one with a name on the filter, specially those with a lot of years doing them) could make faulty filters these days... I will consider instead how people will fit the filter, it may happen that those "performance" filters have a slightly smaller rubber (just making thoughts on my mind), and if you don't put oil properly on all the surface they end up breaking the seal sooner than expected..., or that the fact that it requires a different tool, may make people not tighten it properly...


Again, please accept my appologies for the confusion...

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I reckon that it may be fixed by opening it and cleaning the surplus oil that may be at the bottom of the filter,
Cleaning a semi enclosed oil filter that is not designed for it is a non sequitur, that and cleaning will have zero effect on a physical defects.

The thread is about oil filters failing fatally, not leaking. I have no idea what context your coming from with regard to your oscillating revs, did you mean to post that here..?


I love my K&N, and have loved it for 20 years, the oscillating revs on idle were seen with the bike new when the K&N was fit, and disappeared after the set of iridium plugs, not relevant for the direct answer, but just wanted to provide a context on what happens when you change something on your bike (the engine brake changed a lot too, and that was another point I wanted to give... ;) [size=78%])[/size]
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I can't see how a non-pressure filter could explode... Even with a physical defect...


About the cleaning, was about the oil surplus (as I was doing it first time, and I was tooooo generous with the oil I put on the filter and also anxious on the time I left it pooring before putting it back on the bike, so I would expect that the floor of the filter would be a little swimming pool of oil, that could go only go down with time...

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FZS600 Fazer / Re: Limescale on barrels water pipes
« on: 12 December 2021, 07:14:44 am »
Thanks, no previous owner, just me trusting blindly the mechanic, and specially last pandemic year mostly standing outside with almost no use... I have decided to take care of it myself from now on...


Learned the hard way, and now with new downpipes, rebuilt all coolant pipes, silicone hoses, new pressure clips, all new set of O-rings prepared to fit (even thermostat, that may be needing a new housing...), and specially a roof to give the bike some shelter, I am in the hope of at least a few years more without incidents...


On the barrel adaptor (solidified to the almost died metal pipe, that may be requiring some work soon), I used some limescale remover (but made mistake of submerging into soapy warm water, and lost finish), and was able to remove all of it, but I don't see how to do it on the barrels without risking barrel flat finish (if using sharp tool), or final cleanup (if using some product). I can always find a second hand adaptor, but I don't see me changing barrels...


Question was more about what to do with it, to fit the adapter directly with new O-rings properly greased, or try to do something about it, I reckon that it will always be better than it was even if left as it is right now...

Thanks a lot for the response,

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FZS600 Fazer / Limescale on barrels water pipes
« on: 11 December 2021, 08:46:16 pm »
As part of my nightmare of coolant system, I have ended with the water pipes from the barrel removed, repainted, and now coming back to place, but realised that a lot of limescale (mixed with the rust of the old metal pipes of my bike) has behind left on the wall of the barrel.


You can see the level of limescale on here:



Does anybody know of a good way of removing it?


Should it be good to go with new O-ring a proper greased? (I am thinking going this way, to avoid doing more bad than good, and in the hope that it will not end worst than it was before I started the works... And I can always remove it again and put new O-rings again...


Thanks a lot in advance,

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FZS600 Fazer / Re: 98 vs 03
« on: 11 December 2021, 07:15:39 pm »
I have just had a look at the Haynes manual, three cables come out of the alternator, they seem AC, so they should be fine no matter the order, I have not have a look at the connector on the bike, but it seems that there may be a 5 cables connector to the regulator, so in that connector the red and black ones should be taken care as they are 12V DC (+12V and ground), and those two are to be sorted correctly for sure.


Haynes just seems to put the three coming out of the regulator as white or grey on the schema, not even considering them important.

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I had mine for 20 years now, revs were oscillating at the very beginning, but a set of iridium plugs stabilised it perfectly, never suffered from leaking till now, when I cleaned it myself, and was more than gentle while adding oil, and also maybe not letting it drip off enough time, thus seeing red drops on the floor every now and then (specially the first week), I reckon that it may be fixed by opening it and cleaning the surplus oil that may be at the bottom of the filter, and cleaning also the bottom of the air filter box. It also goes elongating in time just by themselves...


I have done none of both things, and happy with it, it is also kind of funny, when I see a oil drop on the floor I like to have a look at the colour, blue=scottoiler, red=k&n, praying not to be black...


Appart from the oscillating, I would recommend the k&n, unless you love brake motor, I love the softness of stopping the throttle and letting the bike go, but if your riding is considering that engine brake to enter corners, you may be infuriating specially the first month... Or going out of the tarmac while adjusting the driving...


Hope this helps...

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