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1
« on: 18 September 2021, 05:34:09 pm »
Just an update to the Starter motor constantly turning whilst riding:
After replacing the starter button switchgear & starter relay to no avail i found it was the fuel tank compressing the main wiring loom causing a surge of power to the starter relay making the starter turn constantly whilst riding, & illuminating the oil & fuel lights.
My wiring loom is OVER the crossmember under the tank & has compressed it almost flat.
2
« on: 30 August 2021, 07:35:16 am »
Thank you that's a lovely proposition. I'm in Cornwall in the Truro area.
I was tempted just to take it to the bike mechanic i use & offer it him dirt dirt cheap for parts. I've done the usual work like chain, sprockets, filters, tyres etc with him so he knows the bike.
It has served me well the past 9 months The engine is great & starts instantly every time with no throttle which is the only reason I've not done it yet. It has a nice Fuel exhaust which is deep & loud so i had a baffle made by the same company
I simply cant afford another bike atm unless it's a 125 or something but i may as well use my car in that case.
[size=78%]Just too much needed for what its worth unless i did indeed have it as winter project & stripped it down for a full respray (frame, engine, the lot)[/size]
[/size]
[/size][size=78%]Thanks again[/size]
3
« on: 29 August 2021, 04:05:49 pm »
Funnily enough the neutral light has never worked as it needs a new clock (the backing panel is broken) BUT the fuel & oil lights have stayed on since the issue.
I now know that it was cutting out when clutch was engaged as the battery was flat from the starter motor constantly going.
It does run now since a battery charge & side stand switch still does it job in the sense that it cuts the engine when side stand is down and in gear, but needs replacing as i figured it was the cause of the neutral light not working, the starter motor still engages whenever i pull the clutch.
Tempted to belt it with a hammer as you do in a car.
As a side note to the neutral light, there is a green wire loose/disconnected in the front fuse box under the tank, no idea what this is.
Also, the bike doesnt charge the battery. - rectifier of some sorts i guess but its soon to be scrapped for parts when i can afford a new bike
4
« on: 29 August 2021, 11:47:40 am »
Firstly thank you for the reply. This part was taken from the right hand side under the killswitch/horn button, it has a brown wire, as well as a yellow/green one coming off it. It is fed into the same wiring loom/rubber sleeve as the throttle cable. It does have a small press-able button on it which i can assume is pressed when the brake lever is engaged which would suggest it is indeed the brake light switch as you said
That said, i did just check the clutch switch as you mention it and it was quite loose/lopsided, i unplugged and replugged so will try that. Upon doing so i noticed the starter motor is still clicking/turning when i push the button so cant be that after all. (flat battery hence the clicking)
I will have to charge the battery and report back, as the starter was constantly engaging it has run the new battery flat.
as a sidenote, my side stand switch has always worked as it should ie will stall if side stand is down and in gear. BUT, it is covered in oil and road grit so will give it clean.
i believe you may have solved my issue but will report back after a charge
and thank you again, truly.
5
« on: 29 August 2021, 10:41:39 am »
Hi there just wondering if anyone could identify this part for me, it unscrews from underneath the starter button/throttle cable on the handlebars (99 fzs) . It has 2 small spade ends that plug into it, 1 is broken and left inside this part (please forgive the wording)
I was on a ride yesterday and made it a good few miles but then the engine was cutting out whenever i would depress the clutch lever to change gear.
I pulled over and while it would bump start fine, as soon as i held in the clutch it would cut out.
The starter motor would not stop engaging when i held the clutch in, this was prior to me breaking the spade end of said part.
I figured now i'll strip the whole bike and have it as a winter project, so just seeking this part out.
Again, forgive the wording and the long winded description.
Any help appreciated.
6
« on: 06 May 2021, 02:54:40 am »
Sounds like wheel bearings, that said it could be a loose spindle or worn swing arm bushes.
Thanks for the reply i'll replace all bearings anyway & report back.
Cheers again.
Thanks for the reply. I got the bike up on the centre stand and the back wheel alone can be rattled sideways (forgive the wording) There's probably 1-2mm of sideways movement but i'll get the bearings replaced & at the same time hopefully the mechanic can tighten whatever may need tightening. I'll report back & cheers again for the reply/
7
« on: 06 May 2021, 02:51:33 am »
Sounds like wheel bearings, that said it could be a loose spindle or worn swing arm bushes.
Thanks for the reply i'll replace all bearings anyway & report back. Cheers again.
8
« on: 01 May 2021, 08:09:25 am »
I had the same issue, turned out my HT leads were getting wet. I only noticed as i was getting a nasty electric shock when fiddling with the tickover screw.
Just a possibility (if you haven't already sorted it)
9
« on: 01 May 2021, 08:07:42 am »
Hi there. Just noticed some sideways movement in my rear wheel & can feel quite squirrely on certain corners. Just wondered if this would be a wheel bearing issue or if there is something else that could be causing it. It doesn't seem to be the swing arm, & no scraping noises. The wheel moves freely. Was unsure if there could be something else that can be tightened. Figured i'd enquire here before asking a local bike mechanic on the off chance i can tighten something myself. Any help appreciated & thank you 
10
« on: 24 January 2021, 09:44:13 am »
Having now made a good study of the pictures, read all your comments etc. I think it's fair to say your out of your depth a bit here, don't take that the wrong way its not mean as a dig, but an observation based on your questions and answers.
In my opinion you've got a real dog there, it's a typical candidate for being a crash damage and/or insurance write off, unfortunately I'm seeing more and more of these. It also appears whoever worked on it is a real bodger and scarper, with no idea. My advice is to get someone who knows what they're doing look over it, it's highly likely there's a lot of hidden issues in there, some could be serious.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but I wouldn't recommend you ride it until it's been checked properly.
No no it’s fine I appreciate the honesty where safety is concerned. It is my first bike in many years & just needed a runabout during lockdown which is a 10 second ride up & down a steep hill, just until I can save some money. I have my Celica 190 to sell and some time to save. The bike feels good to Chuck about and no major wobbles, although the front end is a bit soft. I’m based in Cornwall so will find a bike mechanic as opposed to a car garage & have them give it a once over. The only advisories were tyres which I have but need fitting & balanced which I’ll do tomorrow (Monday) Again I do appreciate the heads up.
11
« on: 23 January 2021, 03:33:40 am »
Once the fronts done the back is less of a hassle, but you wont know how it rides until then.
You can use the C-Spanner in the tool-kit to adjust, as seen here:
The bigger the gap the harder the suspension and the more load it will take, and vice versa the lower you go (less load, less gap because less travel required).
Standing behind the bike and using both hands to push down on the grab rail (with bike on side stand) will give you a good idea of where you are currently in regards to how soft or hard it is, but you need you and your most used load (chains, locks etc if commuting if your most done thing) to get a true setting. Its a try and adjust kind of thing.
edit
owners manual
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/611242/Yamaha-Fazer-Fzs600.html
service manual
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/923683/Yamaha-Fzs600-98.html
there is a download section on this forum for all the manuals if you'd prefer that, worth a look as it has more downloads / info and updated diagrams.
Thank you & forgive my previous message format, mobile phones are terrible especially a tiny SE. I think I understand the front forks. Undoing the top & bottom fork clamps either side, moving forks up or down & then retightening. I may just take it to a garage on Monday to avoid any mishaps considering it involves a vital thing like that. It is currently my only transport but luckily only need to pop a mile or 2 to the shops once or maybe twice a day & my first bike in well over a decade so it’s hard to compare how it should ride. It feels by no means dangerous & actually quite smooth but I would consider myself a very bland rider & certainly won’t be significant speeds. Thanks again for the links & advice. I know it’s the preload page but I’ve downloaded & will read through so appreciate the link nonetheless & shall update after the weekend
12
« on: 22 January 2021, 08:09:35 pm »
For £950 you've got a bargain, to be honest. The rear caliper alone people sell on eBay for £80-120. You could probably revert a lot of it to standard if you ever sell and flog the additional add-ons on eBay and end up making a profit, but that's way down the line.
I wouldn't overthink the front discs. EBC are a good brand. I only mention the rear disc as it looks reminiscent of those cheap eBay wavy discs people sell, but an EBC one is about £80 (and whatever it would cost to balance the wheel afterwards, if shops do that after fitting a disc) so providing it works I wouldn't overly worry for now.
You're probably saying the front discs are poor because the balance of the bike is so out. As above I'd sort out, or get a shop to, your front fork issue and then go from there in regards to what bits you want to do. You'll probably find handling much improved afterwards, but again I really wouldn't ride it like that. Who knows it may even have been lowered to make the handlebars work, so be prepared to revert it to standard at some cost if needed.
Parts list source (eBay has a wide range of second hand parts for not very much updated basically every day):
https://yambits.co.uk/
https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_600_fazer/98-99
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/
https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/
Keep updated with project. 
Thank you so much for the links and I will. I don’t imagine I’ll sell it unless someone really really wants it. I asked [/size][size=78%]the guy I got it off and he said he only lowered the front as he had arthritis. The back still looks a tad low but it is parked on a hill in that photo. [/size][/size][/size]I’ll know a bit more when my tyres arrive tomorrow but I only managed to get a set called Diablos as they were half price (DemonTweeks)[size=78%][/size]Thanks again I truly appreciate the input.[size=78%]
13
« on: 22 January 2021, 08:01:42 pm »
MINTH on the front disc is for “ minimum thickness”
It is not a manufacturers name.
Omg that’s embarrassing. I only named it as such as I searched that phrase on eBay and someone has listed a Minth disc for a tenner so my stomach dropped. It is indeed an edc or something I believe
14
« on: 22 January 2021, 02:04:27 am »
The more I read the more I feel I should delete the word cheap.
Everything was £1500+ and 200+ miles away from the south west.
This was local & needed a bike as my car insurance was a joke.
It feels good to ride & I don’t mind the tinkering during lockdown.
I still love it
15
« on: 22 January 2021, 01:51:35 am »
Putting the bike on the centre stand and using one of these (with the cups placed on the bottom run of black frame, assisted by perhaps some thin strips of square wood if needed) will help you lift the front of the bike, if needed, to complete the work. I've got both a lift like that and the bike but haven't checked if the thread on the cups are long enough to ensure the ramp touches the frame first, and not the exhaust pipes, when raised.
Or a headstand.
Or if you've got some ratchet straps you can tie them to a strong beam in a garage or a tree and keep the bike raised up that way (putting the strap around the handlebars).
~
As an aside, and encase you don't know (forgive me if you do):
> the rear caliper is from a FZS 1000 (the brake caliper bracket will be slightly modified to make it fit)
> You can get a Torsion bar (the black bar attached to brake caliper bracket) from a Yamaha Thunderace (of better quality and wont rust as much), if ever needed
> custom seat
> aftermarket handlebars
> you're missing the R/H cover that goes over the airbox
> Rear disc looks questionable, but front looks to be EBC?
> Might want to look at that ding in the R/H header pipe
Bikes either had an owner that pumped loads of money into it (rear caliper upgrade, ebc discs, mudguard etc) and then one that ruined it, or one that suffered conflicting upgrade choices and has left you with half decent half project.
I only post this bit as it seems like you've just purchased it and are attempting to figure it out. Parts of it are definitely not standard but fairly easy to work on.
Thank you for all this info! That is above and beyond. I had no idea other than the seat. It does have a Fastline.co.uk decal on the windscreen & the previous owner was 64 years old so I imagine minimal rectifying of unwanted upgrades. He told me that the owner before him did extensive work for a magazine. I’ve yet to clean it, very very dusty but certainly needs a love. I shall look into the front disc but I am clueless. Didn’t notice the air ox cover either. It was what I presumed was cheap and had to be local to me as I only had 1k. It has 30k miles (£950) with full MOT. Two new tyres en route but has a very slack chain which I’ll do at the same time. I had an FZR 600 over a decade ago & love this fast in comparison. Thank you again for the massive wealth of info. I now know where to look. EDIT the front disc is a minth. You may have just saved my life. It’s terrible.
16
« on: 21 January 2021, 03:13:28 pm »
Just to be on the safe side, Id check to make sure the clamping bolts are tight on the top yoke, the forks may have slipped though if they are loose
That's a terrifying thought i'll do that immediately! I really should have checked that sooner so thanks
17
« on: 21 January 2021, 03:11:39 pm »
It's a wonder the front mudguard hasn't gone through the radiator, under braking  .
Funnily enough! you may have inadvertently solved another query. I have to gently move the bike of the curb/pavement and each time i do there's a big plastic clash from the front mudguard! This must be it hitting so thanks!
18
« on: 21 January 2021, 03:09:27 pm »
You need to measure one of the dog bones.
Standard measurement is 140mm from centre hole to centre hole.
Shorter length dog bones raise the bike, and longer ones will lower it.
We're talking gradients of about 10mm so be careful when measuring.
If it has been lowered I would guess it's a nightmare using the centre stand?
Thanks for the measurement! I've yet to try the centre stand but that's a very very good point! I do need to use it later for chain tightening so i shall soon find out. Again, a massive thanks i now know what to check on the rear.
19
« on: 21 January 2021, 03:07:33 pm »
Looks like its been lowered to me. Theres about 2 inches of fork sticking through the top yoke, so id guess that the rear has been dropped the same. You could revert back to stock height, im sure someone on here must have the length of the links reqd for the rear
Oh wow didn't even notice the yolks although i wouldn't have known how they come as standard so a massive thank you for pointing that out! Front is a yes (huge help) Thank you!
20
« on: 21 January 2021, 09:26:22 am »
TTSIA really.
When i use the side stand, it is standing precariously upright so i tend to lean it against a wall in gear at home or when i pop in the local shops.
My only thought is perhaps it has been lowered to cause this. It does have a centre stand but I'd prefer to keep that for maintenance etc only.
IS there a way i can tell if it has been lowered? I daren't bend the side stand to make it stand at a better angle as that's madness.
Pics of back end & side:
21
« on: 21 January 2021, 08:26:11 am »
Any pictures? Don't recall ever seeing a white version before?
Pics but bad camera. Had to have it when i saw the White
22
« on: 19 January 2021, 09:58:20 pm »
Not my old one then. There was another foccer on here years ago (Snooky??) that had a white one. Not an original colour but then neither was the lime green one that Slidey had either.
Yeah i should've done a bit more research before asking silly questions. My research consisted of looking on used bike sales for a white 99 & googling original factory colours. We live & learn.
23
« on: 19 January 2021, 09:55:30 pm »
When a vehicle colour is changed the owner should inform the DVLA by sending the V5C back with details of the change and a new V5C will be issued showing the new details.
https://www.gov.uk/change-vehicle-details-registration-certificate
Ahh this must be the answer then. Had absolutely no idea you could change the colour of the bike on the logbook. Figured it wouldn't be possible but now you mention it, if the Authorities were looking for a certain bike, it would HAVE to be updated otherwise you could change colour & stick a private plate on it to avoid detection. Silly me. Again excuse the wording & thanks!
24
« on: 19 January 2021, 09:48:54 pm »
When I bought my original one (a black one that someone has now painted white apparently) new in 1999 there were the following colours available
Black
Red
Gold
Silver
My 1999 is also White BUT it states White on the logbook. Which was where my confusion started.
Does the reg start T553?
T41
25
« on: 19 January 2021, 08:22:53 pm »
https://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=34.0
Thank you for the link! My 1999 is White but also states White on the logbook. Confused to say the least but thanks again!
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