I've normally not much sympathy for D.D. but under the circumstances what you did is understandable, and unfortunately you've been very unlucky. I get the impression you are not keen on becoming a pure cyclist so in the absence of suitable public transport the electric bike option sounds like a reasonable alternative. I've occasionally used a cheap early electric bike and it does take the pain of cycling up hills away. Good luck with whatever you decide and looking for a positive when the nine months is up we will be at the start of summer.

Hi Nick, welcome to the site. Good choice of bike. I have had a 2001 Fazer 600 for seventeen years now with very little trouble in 60,000 miles and still happy with it. You'll find plenty of info on here and usually someone to answer any questions you might have. I'm from Lancashire so not near you. Take your time to get used to the bike and enjoy in safety.

Well worth it for me, made a big improvement to what i could see behind.

If you have ever adjusted the carburettor pilot screws on the 600 Fazer you will know how restricted the space is on number 3 carb. If you have dainty fingers you might be able to use a very short screwdriver, but I can't. You can buy a bent tool for £18 which is probably good for most bikes but which I found possible but tricky to use on number 3 carb on the 600 Fazer. There is also a much more expensive tool available that uses a pair of small bevel gears and would no doubt do the job well. After seeing a similar idea to this on another forum this is a tool I made using an angled screwdriver from Toolstation for £6.59 and which makes the job a lot easier. Very pleased with the end result which makes the adjustment easy. The chrome extension tube was something I had lying about from some scrapped item.

Details

Details

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Details

Has you ever heard of using exhaust pipe temperature as a guide when adjusting the pilot screw?

Just for interest I measured to temperature of the exhaust pipes shortly after starting from cold and ticking over for a couple of minutes and I was surprised to find number 3 pipe only got to about 70C when the others had got to about 100C. When I ran it at 2200 revs for a couple of minutes all four got to about the same temperature. I could detect a slight unevenness at tick-over but it never bothered me when riding the bike, which has now done 60,000 miles. After checking cylinder pressures and valve clearances etc. I decided to have a go at a little adjustment of the pilot screw on number three which did smooth out the tick-over. However after letting it all cool down and starting again the tick-over was still smooth but number three ex pipe was still not getting hot as quick as the others. Another 1/4 turn out and now all four pipes get hot at the same time and tick over still smooth. Hence my question about making final adjustments based on exhaust pipe temperature heating up from cold, because I've never heard of it being done that way, and you would normally make such adjustment with everything warmed up.   

Yes, just replace old for new. As soon as you turn on the ignition the fuel pump will do its usual clicking as it pump fuel into the system and you can then start her up. As a safety thing the fuel pump cuts out after a few seconds if the engine is not running, so it would do no harm to turn the ignition off and then back on again to make sure the carbs are full before pressing the start button. I usually do that if the bikes been stood a fair while and the fuel in the float bowls as evaporated.
Edit. I've just realised this post is in the FZ section. What I have written above applies to the FZS 600 carburetor model as shown in your profile.

I like the idea of the lights in the end of the frame tubes.

I think I'm right in saying the Foxeye one is different so I'm limited in the years of bikes I can source one from.

You are correct in your thinking.

going back to my "stuttering thread" a while after lapping the valves and doing a compression test (135 psi ) i had it on the dyno, 1 or 2 bhp down on claimed power when new...makes me question Haynes figures...

Just a thought of mine. If you are using a screw in tester with an adapter between the compression tester (where the non-return valve is) and the plug hole, then the extra volume of air space in the adapter effectively lowers the compression ratio and thus the gauge shows a lower reading. I can't remember how much it was with the adapter I was using but it was significant.
If you felt so inclined you could do the calculation using Boyle's Law of P1 x V1 = P2 x V2 to see the theoretical difference between with and without the adapter.  Unusually for me I didn't record the figures when I did the test but I remember the calculation put my mind at rest.

This is a link to the details i mentioned. It's a bit lengthy with quite a lot of questions and answers and photo's so should cover everything you need.
Happy to help if i can but it's several years ago that i did the mod. [size=78%] [/size]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,5252.0.html

Welcome to the Group Martin. Looks a nice clean bike, good choice. They are very reliable bikes but plenty of info on here and always somebody to help (or take the piss) on here.

As others have said it is probably the hot water pre-heat system where the heat exchanger within the boiler is kept up to temperature so you get hot water at the tap quicker. My own boiler is a Worcester Bosch and you can turn Eco mode on which stops it doing that, which is what I have done.
The other time it might start on its own when the boiler is turned off is for frost protection below about 8 degrees, but obviously not in this case.

Im in the process of rebuilding the fazer "Street Fighter" style and will document its journey if anyone is interested to see

Welcome back. Always interesting to see what others are doing with their bike.