Fazer Callipers

[hightower]

Foc u Yamaha, foc u!

Single cast Callipers were a little bit of a faux pas, ja? What an absolute pain to work on...

[kebab19]

The anodised centres come off with the right tool, making access a fair bit easier: listed on the webpage linked below

http://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk/acatalog/Brake_Service_Tools.html

£16 seems reasonable to avoid all the extra grief leaving them in place..... unless you have hands the size of a six year old

Fizzy, I think the the seal recesses in the caliper are cut at a slight angle, and when the seals are fitted the 'lip' is only ever forced out one way. I reversed mine around and found it felt exactly the same, guess I'll find out next time I go out for a spin!

[noggythenog]

Excuse me being naive here, i've never attempted calipers before but i do have a set off of Christo to practice on when the time comes.


But can you not compare with the seals you took off?...or are they just like mush?

[hightower]

Noggy, the lip is so slight it's impossible to see (compare) with the eye. You have to feel for it.

Couple good removal tools not that link for pistons, not keen on removing blue bits - in case more seals need to be bought. For this time I'm just going to do it the service manual way.

[Chris]

I can't remember where but I'm sure it was said on a thread here a while back that removing the blue spot  from the calliper is a seriously bad idea. I think they are bonded in and if removed can be a bugger to get to seal properly again.

Chris

[DryRob]

+1 for hearing bluespot removal is a bad idea.

It's a pain to get the pots out if they're seized but freeing them up one at a time before you drop the fluid out helps. Use a block of wood to hold the other pots in and pull on the brake lever to get them moving.

[hightower]

I've got two pots out, gonna clean them up, new seals, bleed, and then use the brake system to pop the other two out. That's the service manual method, just a massive chew on. Not gonna invest in another tool as already spent a load of money sorting this, so will probably do the other calliper the service manual way too.

It's all good experience at least... Ho hum

[kebab19]

If removing them is a bad idea, why have Yamaha / Sumitomo gone to the bother of making them removable?
I used the tool on my own front calipers last week, the bluespots (silverspots actually) came out fairly easily without damage and are threaded. An O-ring sits in behind the 'caps' to keep anything leaking past them. There was no sealant or bonding agent on the cap threads.

I used a set of replacement bluespot cap O-rings ordered from the same webpage and reassembled both calipers after changing the seals.

Lo and behold - after bungee-ing the front brake lever back to the bars for 48 hours solid they aren't leaking and now work like ...they should 



Next time I get a chance, I'll remove the blue caps from my original front calipers & post some images up

[Chris]

That's good to know 

I've not done my front callipers yet, so will be interested to see how you get on with the blue spots.

Chris

[hightower]

I don't fizzy, I would probably take them to garage to be removed except the stubborness in me wants to do this all by myself.

[darrsi]

Gone a bit OTT with the copper grease there Fizzy, you only need to wipe it on the back plate of the pads with your finger.
You don't want the rain washing it from the edges onto the pad surface as contamination can obviously cause braking issues mate.

[fatboy]

+1  on the copper slip,way to much

[hightower]

Got mine in bits all over the kitchen at the moment trying to work out which way around the oil seals go. I can feel a lip at the back side when i put them in, then turn them around i feel a lip again. I'm sure theyre meant to go in only one way but i cant tell

http://www.fz6-forum.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/48893-new-brake-caliper-piston-seals-side-inwards-outwards.html

Not fzs600, but sure I read about the fzs600 somewhere too that it is a square seal so you will probably feel a lip whichever way round you have the seal. Don't think there is a wrong way to have it on these seals

[hightower]

Well, got all 8 pistons out and clean, new seals in and back on bike. One piston is not moving out though. Hoping I haven't bled properly but other than that not sure what to do. The piston was tight putting in, so much so I thought there was a fault with the seal so I stripped it (and the seal was fine) but still not moving out the pot.


I've given up for today, back to it tomorrow. Also, my banjo keeps dripping after removing caliper. I have it strung up to same level as headlight, anyone got any suggestions? When it drips it feels like I have to rush the work on the caliper to get it all back together.

[Flak]

Best strip them down again then lol

Just take the pads back out and wipe off the excess from round the sides. Will only take a few minutes. 

[hightower]

did you polish the grooves with autosol and a tooth brush, and use new copper washers and 30Nm on the banjo bolts?

No autosol, just brake cleaner and a toothbrush. The other pistons went back in a treat. Haven't torqued the banjo up properly yet as will likely need to come off again, although can't see it being the issue as the other three pistons are fine. As for washers, no need - the old ones are fine.

[ChristoT]

Just a hint...

The mechanic I take my bike to in Hatfield uses a grease gun to get the pistons out. Works better than compressed air, and seeing as you're going to clean the calliper anyway... 

[DryRob]

did you polish the grooves with autosol and a tooth brush, and use new copper washers and 30Nm on the banjo bolts?

No autosol, just brake cleaner and a toothbrush. The other pistons went back in a treat. Haven't torqued the banjo up properly yet as will likely need to come off again, although can't see it being the issue as the other three pistons are fine. As for washers, no need - the old ones are fine.

Have you used red rubber grease?

[DryRob]

Just a hint...

The mechanic I take my bike to in Hatfield uses a grease gun to get the pistons out. Works better than compressed air, and seeing as you're going to clean the calliper anyway... 

I think someone on here said that a presta valve off an old inner tube is the same thread as the bleed nipple meaning a track pump can be used instead of a compressor.

[hightower]

did you polish the grooves with autosol and a tooth brush, and use new copper washers and 30Nm on the banjo bolts?

No autosol, just brake cleaner and a toothbrush. The other pistons went back in a treat. Haven't torqued the banjo up properly yet as will likely need to come off again, although can't see it being the issue as the other three pistons are fine. As for washers, no need - the old ones are fine.

Have you used red rubber grease?

Nope, just literally brake cleaner and brake fluid to lube.

[hightower]

The other thing, this stuck piston we're talking about - I tried hard last night before giving up for the day to push it back in - the other 3 move out AND in freely, but I couldn't for the life of me force this one in. Just in case that system helps someone with a diagnosis.

[DryRob]

I did that first time I did mine, they started binding within a year or so and needed redoing.

You might be alright with just pushing out each pot, greasing it and pushing it back in. I'd consider taking them apart and greasing them properly while the seals are still new, dunno if that's appropriate but it's cheaper than redoing them with new seals next spring.

[hightower]

Well, stripped down the troublesome piston again and the seals were seated correctly. I've put it back in and it does seem better this time so going to run with that for now.


Could I hell get the bearings out the front wheel, so paid the local bike shop a fiver for them to do it. Cleaned it up and put the new bearings in.


Now going to leave the bike overnight to make sure no leaks on callipers/banjo before putting the new discs and pads in place, but with any amount of luck I will have my bike back on the road by tomorrow night