Author Topic: Siezed sump plug (Read 3548 times)

Hiswitsend · « **on:** 02 March 2014, 05:41:15 pm »

Ah, the joys of 'preloved' bikes!

First task, as always was to change the oil and filter and had a wee 5 minutes spare, so set about it...stalled at first hurdle in that I cannot get the sump plug to budge and it looks like the previous ower couldn't either.

Any hints and tips as to how best to proceed? The lower frame rail prevents use of a socket and therefore impact driver, though I am not sure if an impact driver would be advisable.

Does anyone know of it can be done with a shallow socket and one of the waggly extension bar things?

Cheers

Dave

Lez72 · « **Reply #1 on:** 02 March 2014, 06:31:17 pm »

Has it been rounded off ?

If not, try a ratchet spanner with a bit of gentle persuasion from a rubber mallet applied at the open end.

Hiswitsend · « **Reply #2 on:** 02 March 2014, 06:39:30 pm »

It's not completely rounded, but had started to. Will try get ratchet spanner on to it.

Failing that was wondering if it would be possible to drop the engine down on one side, slightly to get socket onto it?

Hiswitsend · « **Reply #3 on:** 02 March 2014, 06:57:43 pm »

Or even tilting the engine forward...?

noggythenog · « **Reply #4 on:** 02 March 2014, 07:03:45 pm »

Surely some penetrating spray over a few days is adviseable , a proper one, not wd40

Then a slight tighten to free off before untightening???????

Just guessing here if im honest.

Lez72 · « **Reply #5 on:** 02 March 2014, 07:09:26 pm »

Well the engines do come out of the frames so yes this would be possible but its a fair bit of work. If you can get a ratchet spanner to grip it, I would definitely try that method first. If a socket would grip it then a ratchet spanner should. The longer the spanner the better. You may be surprised how easily it undoes with a bit of leverage involved.

Just give the opposite end of the spanner a few whacks. The further away from the sump bolt (down the length of the spanner) you can apply force, the better.

Dead Eye · « **Reply #6 on:** 02 March 2014, 07:52:06 pm »

Trying to tilt the engine would be a pretty big job in the grand scheme - pipes would need to come off and disconnect the air box and maybe carbs... plus there's the engine mounts which I had great fun trying to put back on last time round $:\$

Try a decent fitting spanner first... if access is limited to spanners I've generally found you can link ring spanners together to get a longer lever

Dave48 · « **Reply #7 on:** 03 March 2014, 08:45:39 am »

Obviously previous owner has seriously overtightened sump bolt.As said-try close fitting ratcheting spanner with extra leverage-eg length of pipe etc. When you refit use a new crush washer-they don't cost much and use torque setting as per manual. Good luck!

Deefer666 · « **Reply #8 on:** 03 March 2014, 09:11:52 am »

Take the downpipes off and fit another sump?

Ruby Racing · « **Reply #9 on:** 03 March 2014, 09:23:34 am »

Quote from: Deefer666 on 03 March 2014, 09:11:52 am

Take the downpipes off and fit another sump?

Nice bit of lateral thinking. And maybe a good idea as the thread in the existing one is probably now knackered anyway. If not, it's probably not far off.

Lez72 · « **Reply #10 on:** 03 March 2014, 10:06:42 am »

Quote from: Ruby Racing on 03 March 2014, 09:23:34 am

Quote from: Deefer666 on 03 March 2014, 09:11:52 am
Take the downpipes off and fit another sump?

Nice bit of lateral thinking. And maybe a good idea as the thread in the existing one is probably now knackered anyway. If not, it's probably not far off.

A nice bit of lateral thinking indeed but my guess is that the next thread from the OP will be along the lines of 'How to remove a snapped exhaust stud'

Ruby Racing · « **Reply #11 on:** 03 March 2014, 10:13:33 am »

Quote from: Lez72 on 03 March 2014, 10:06:42 am

A nice bit of lateral thinking indeed but my guess is that the next thread from the OP will be along the lines of 'How to remove a snapped exhaust stud'

Taking the lateral thinking further, to its furthest point: buy another Fazer!

His Dudeness · « **Reply #12 on:** 03 March 2014, 11:49:34 am »

Spanner and long pipe would be what I'd try. Go easy though it's only aluminium. Maybe tilt the bike onto it's side so you've got more clearance under the bike for a pipe. Good luck!

Hiswitsend · « **Reply #13 on:** 03 March 2014, 12:03:00 pm »

Cheers guys, loving the lateral thinking and sump removal had crossed my mind as a possibility, especially is bolt gets too chewed up and further intervention is needed.

Exhaust needs to come off anyway fit a spot of welding :-(

Popping into Halfords for a pro ratchet spanner... Just in case they don't chime in a set is it 17mm or 18mm? :-[

New sump plug and washer ordered as a matter of course.

Lawrence · « **Reply #14 on:** 03 March 2014, 12:30:56 pm »

Iirc it's 17mm. I wouldn't go to the expense of a ratchet spanner if you're going to stick a bar on it and undo something really tight. Use a normal ring spanner for stuff like that.

Hiswitsend · « **Reply #15 on:** 03 March 2014, 09:49:25 pm »

Well tried a 17mm brake pipe spanner, thinking that the thickness of the wall would grip the maximum amount of the bolt and it still slipped as 17mm normal spanner also slipped

Tried to get mole grips on as there really were no flats/corners left...couldn't get the angle, so was thinking sump off at this point, so set about the exhaust... came off a doddle, even though the bolts looked a bit suspect and soft

Mole grips back on at a far better angle and on tighter than a tight thing, tap, tap tap with the hammer and IT MOVED!!!!

Was a bit late at this point, so changing engine oil is postponed until tomorrow, rather than warm the engine up with the exhaust off too late...will also keep it locked in the hut...

Happy bunny again.

Now how whether to get the neck of the exhaust welded or pack with exhaust paste and clamp it ... dying to go for a decent run on it this weekend, so know what I am swaying towards...

savvy · « **Reply #16 on:** 06 March 2014, 12:11:20 pm »

Are there no body shops near you? Surely one would do a bit of weld for a nominal sum? Take them what? 1/2 hr tops? The local one welded my centre stand for a tenner.

His Dudeness · « **Reply #17 on:** 06 March 2014, 08:58:42 pm »

Well done getting it off with no damage

that's a b*llocks of a job that can easily end in tears

Deefer666 · « **Reply #18 on:** 06 March 2014, 09:25:50 pm »

Quote from: His Dudeness on 06 March 2014, 08:58:42 pm

Well done getting it off with no damage that's a b*llocks of a job that can easily end in tears

Not quite as easy as that, it the pipes have rotted through at the necks of the downpipes then the material will be paper thin and near impossible to weld, I know from experience

Deefer666 · « **Reply #19 on:** 06 March 2014, 09:27:03 pm »

Ahhh have quoted the wrong post, this was a reply to Savvy's post

His Dudeness · « **Reply #20 on:** 06 March 2014, 09:32:12 pm »

Quote from: Deefer666 on 06 March 2014, 09:27:03 pm

Ahhh have quoted the wrong post, this was a reply to Savvy's post

I'll let you away with it....this time

Hiswitsend · « **Reply #21 on:** 06 March 2014, 09:40:14 pm »

Well, original sump plug I ordered was the wrong thread, but got sent out new, magnetic one, with coarser thread that arrived the next day, great service from them. (raw power motorcycles on eBay).

Exhaust patched and refitted, ready for tyres and run on Saturday. Could maybe have been welded, but would've meant waiting over a week..