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Messages - Walkerfromwolves
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« on: 07 October 2023, 02:08:44 pm »
Good afternoon all,
Please see attached some photos- I've added a video to the original post. Managed to get it running today but the electrical problem is still intermittent. Seat is included! I just had it removed to check a few other electrical things but still nothing obvious.
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« on: 23 August 2023, 12:57:05 pm »
Hello everyone,
Pictures to follow.
Sadly I am having to put my 2002 FZS1000 up for sale as spare or repair due to an electrical fault. The symptoms of the fault are that when turning the key there is no power to any of the electrical system despite having a well charged battery. I initially attributed this problem to the datatool alarm system which was subsequently disabled by an auto electrician, but the problem is still there. The issue was originally intermittent but has become worse with time. Sadly with an upcoming wedding and a mortgage to pay I can’t afford to invest further time or money into it to sort it out. For those who are electrically minded, this may be a very easy fix.
Mileage: 40,463 (at last MOT, clocks aren’t illuminating with the ignition as described above)
MOT Expires 6 April 2024 (Registration LY02 NUE if you wish to check it’s history on gov website)
The good:
The bike was a good runner until its recent electrical fault. I have owned the bike for the past 8 years or so (purchased from a forum member) and have done plenty of touring on it. Mechanically the bike is sound and it has some desirable upgrades to make it a very competent all round machine.
Full Monty Ivans Jet Kit
K&N Air filter
Beowulf end can
4XV R1 front end
Braided brake lines
R6 rear shock.
Givi rear rack.
The bad:
In addition to the electrical problem above the bike is nowhere near a show bike. Cosmetically it could use some improvement as it has scratches on the tank and tail unit.
Sadly the service history has been lost and only comes with a few notes found in it’s Haynes Manual, I have serviced the bike myself and ensured the EXUP valve has been greased yearly.
V5 is present and in my name. I would prefer to sell this as a whole machine rather than breaking for parts. The bike will need trailering away.
Price: £800.
Location: Bridgnorth, Shropshire,
Contact details: Mark, please PM
[remove number is this will get scraped/spidered by bots. - bkd)
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« on: 21 April 2023, 05:16:04 pm »
Post a picture of the alarm, some of the early models were not the best and were known to strand people
I've attached photos of the alarm. So far no luck 
4
« on: 20 April 2023, 10:06:02 am »
Hello all,
Thank you for the help. I also have my suspicion that is it is the datatool alarm. I can't post a picture at the minute as I was forced to leave it at my fathers and ride his BMW back to my house. I'll try post a photo when I can.
I'll go do some digging on the back of your advice and report back. Annoyingly the bike started this morning and seems to be fine but the loss of trust in the bike due to leaving my stranded is damaging in itself!
Whisky
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« on: 19 April 2023, 03:11:52 pm »
Hello all, I have an issue with my FZS1000 which after recently putting it back on the road is somewhat disappointing. It's also made me push it home twice in two days now which is putting my back out!  The bike cuts out randomly (both times when I was riding) and doesn't want to start afterwards. With the ignition switched on the indicators and hazards still work but the headlights don't. The datatool alarm also resets when the ignition is switched on which is not normal. Checked all the fuses today and all are fine. Ater inspecting and refitting them the bike started but on a test ride around the block cut out again. Can anyone suggest what to try next? My instincts may be the old datatool alarm or immobiliser (not even sure if it has one). Thanks for the help, Whisky
6
« on: 05 February 2021, 11:17:00 am »
Right gents. Problem solved.
A little embarrassing but I hope that if anyone has any similar issues in the future this may help:
The snag was the alignment of the rose joint, shift linkage and shift arm. It was only fractionally out but sufficient enough for the pedal to get stuck on the footpeg bolt so that the return spring couldnt overcome the friction.
7
« on: 04 February 2021, 06:27:04 pm »
Good Evening all,
Seems like every few weeks I have a problem post!
I noticed a small oil leak coming from inside the front sprocket cover and when I took it off it had all the hallmark signs of the gear selector cover gasket as described by an old post I found on the old tapatalk forum. Ordered a replacement gasket, removed the cover to which the old gasket split in multiple pieces. Found the oil leak I thought! Spent much time gently scraping and cleaning the contact surfaces ready for new gasket, installed new gasket and whipped it all back together. Aces I thought! Job done.... or so I thought.
Popped to local shops this afternoon for some groceries. No issues on the way there. On the way back however I am changing down from 60mph in 6th to 2nd gear to take a tight island and upon exiting the island the bike wont shift up into 3rd. Bugger. Tried to release and re-engage clutch and pre load the lever prior to shifting to no avail. Get the bike home and up onto the main stand, whip off the foot peg, sprocket cover and shift linkage. Nothing looks untoward. So I place the arm which goes on the selector shaft and try to shift the gearbox. 1st, up to 2nd. No 3rd.
So my question gents, seems like I've ballsed it up somehow but what I should I be looking for tomorrow when I get back in the garage? I'll have to order another gasket and get the cover off again but if there's nothing obviously out of place what should I be looking for?
As always, thanks for the help.
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« on: 12 January 2021, 09:32:52 pm »
Hi dude , nice bike can't be to far from me with that user name 👍
From Wolverhampton originally mate, just moved to Shropshire. Black Country lad yourself?
9
« on: 12 January 2021, 03:30:48 pm »
Bogging down problems fixed! The hesitation below 3k rpm has disappeared and pulls cleanly in all gears. I suspect that the spark plug cap in cylinder one (which was torn to buggery and hastily repaired) was causing that cylinder to run rich. When I pulled the plug it was pretty sooty. Anyways, a change of plugs, caps and trimming the leads seems to have cured it as well as an air filter clean.
Great feeling getting out on it again for a few miles today.
10
« on: 09 January 2021, 12:29:30 pm »
Yeah, a quick trawl through ebay and a set of coils are inbound for less than 30 quid!
Hopefully will rectify the bogging down or I'm in carb balancing territory next.
11
« on: 08 January 2021, 05:34:41 pm »
What a hero.
Much better than searching for the caps alone.
Thank you.
12
« on: 08 January 2021, 03:44:14 pm »
Yamaha part number from as per Fowlers Parts is 4XV-82370-01 not sure if that's £93.68 for 1 or all 4 though 
They look like rocking horse poo to get hold of reasonably so have a look in the For Sale & Wanted to see if anyone is breaking a bike, might be worthwhile sending b1k3rdude a PM or posting on his For Sale thread to see if he has any 
Top Tip from Mike (Falcon269) if you're having issues in this area trim the leads a little where the caps screw in and refit as the ends can go brittle and split adversley affecting the connection through to the plugs.
Wow. No wonder it was bodged. Thanks for the heads up. Will do. Yeah I've heard of that problem before. I think 5mm off the ends is the going advice?
13
« on: 08 January 2021, 01:35:20 pm »
Good Morning All, Had a search for this but wasnt able to find an answer for the 1000 so I thought I'd ask. I recently changed the spark plugs on my fzs1000 owing to poor fuelling and bogging down at low rpm. When I removed the spark plug cap from the plug I noticed that a bodged repair had been effected with electrical tape. This was on the cylinder which was running the coolest out of the four (Mrs was not happy using her meat temperature gauge as a thermometer!) Anyways, ordered some NGK replacements Model SD05F. Upon arrival they are considerably shorter and are not the correct diameter at the thick end. Does anyone know the correct model spark plug cap for the thou OEM or otherwise.? Thanks!  | Spark Plug Cap |
14
« on: 04 January 2021, 06:24:19 pm »
Hi everyone!
So I've been a member for around five years now when I purchased my 1000 from another forum member:
https://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=17778.msg205157#msg205157
Since then I've put the grand total of a further 10k on her but remained a forum lurker. It hasn't been plain sailing- I found a crack in the engine casing which had been filled, sanded and sprayed over. However I did my first tour on her to Scotland and have done Wales, Ireland and France since. Even though she's not my only bike she's the one I won't ever sell.
Here she is now (attached)
Nice to meet you all!
Mark
15
« on: 05 July 2018, 02:31:31 pm »
Good afternoon Gents.
First post and unfortunately its one seeking a little help. I did a quick search but couldnt find anything so I apologise if this has already been posted.
So I purchased the bike in 2015 from another forum member and since then it has been a beautifully reliable machine. Sadly after a recent trip to Ireland I noticed a liquid burning off the header pipes at standstills accompanied by an unwelcome smell. The leak seems to be coming from the left hand side of the bike but a quick removal of the front sprocket cover only revealed lots of grimey oil and not much in the way of understanding where the leak is coming from.
It might be worth stating that before the trip the bike had an oil and filter change and at no point did the oil warning light come on and the inspection window is as it should be.
Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance for he help.
Mark.
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