1m long spanner with you stood on the end assuming you weigh 100kg will work.
that would be way too much torque; 100kgf = 980Newtons (x1metre) = 980Nm of torqueI have an 18" norbar torque wrench and it's pretty much that with my full applied arm effort (weedy southern nancy)
Quote from: pilninggas on 29 July 2015, 09:26:36 pmthat would be way too much torque; 100kgf = 980Newtons (x1metre) = 980Nm of torqueI have an 18" norbar torque wrench and it's pretty much that with my full applied arm effort (weedy southern nancy)Ah, now *that's* a useful reply It's been a very long since I did physics, but you've reminded me how to figure it out.I've got a socket wrench which is about 20cm long, so if I needed to apply 10kg on a 1m wrench then that would be 50kg on a 20cm wrench, ie pushing down with most of my weight would do it.Thanks!
Good rule of thumb finger tight then one flat on the nut and for extra security apply a touch of Loctite Blue before assembly.
Quote from: lew600fazer on 29 July 2015, 10:48:36 pmGood rule of thumb finger tight then one flat on the nut and for extra security apply a touch of Loctite Blue before assembly.You are obviously joking for 100Nm?Unless you have fingers like "The Thing" from The Fantastic Four?
Quote from: darrsi on 29 July 2015, 11:12:20 pmQuote from: lew600fazer on 29 July 2015, 10:48:36 pmGood rule of thumb finger tight then one flat on the nut and for extra security apply a touch of Loctite Blue before assembly.You are obviously joking for 100Nm?Unless you have fingers like "The Thing" from The Fantastic Four?seriously now, they're 8 or 10mm thread, just lean on them. common sense will tell you if they're tight. (from someone else on here)The rear axle nut is 150nm , I don't have a torque wrench that goes to 150nm so all I have done with that is mark the flat of the nut and the area next to the nut, Back it off do what I need to do and tighten it back to were it was. All I am using is a split ring spanner no bars or anything else and I am not popping a vein to slacken/tighten the nut. Now perhaps it has not been torqued up to the correct torque in the first place , but guess what the wheel has never come off or come lose on me yet. All I am doing from finger tight is turning the nut through 1.5 flatsAfter spending my working life as an engineer I reckon I would have a pretty good idea when a nut is tight.So how many flats do you reckon from finger tight on a 8-10mm bolt/nut do you reckon you would need to turn it to achieve 100 nm?
Quote from: lew600fazer on 29 July 2015, 11:57:07 pmQuote from: darrsi on 29 July 2015, 11:12:20 pmQuote from: lew600fazer on 29 July 2015, 10:48:36 pmGood rule of thumb finger tight then one flat on the nut and for extra security apply a touch of Loctite Blue before assembly.You are obviously joking for 100Nm?Unless you have fingers like "The Thing" from The Fantastic Four?seriously now, they're 8 or 10mm thread, just lean on them. common sense will tell you if they're tight. (from someone else on here)The rear axle nut is 150nm , I don't have a torque wrench that goes to 150nm so all I have done with that is mark the flat of the nut and the area next to the nut, Back it off do what I need to do and tighten it back to were it was. All I am using is a split ring spanner no bars or anything else and I am not popping a vein to slacken/tighten the nut. Now perhaps it has not been torqued up to the correct torque in the first place , but guess what the wheel has never come off or come lose on me yet. All I am doing from finger tight is turning the nut through 1.5 flatsAfter spending my working life as an engineer I reckon I would have a pretty good idea when a nut is tight.So how many flats do you reckon from finger tight on a 8-10mm bolt/nut do you reckon you would need to turn it to achieve 100 nm? If i get a sporting chance i'll give it a try at work and let you know. Common sense always prevails, but it's probably the lower settings where people really get it wrong, like exhaust header nuts(12Nm), caliper pad pins(10Nm), etc. Even worse if using copper grease, where even i have become a victim of foccing up my own rear caliper, using a torque wrench.
Are you sure it's 100 nms seems a lot, you do mean the bolts that hold the sprocket to the hub?A 100nms coverts to 73.76 foot pounds, using a 1/2 drive standard ratchet wrench the most you can get without swinging on it is around 75 foot pounds, ok some will get more but the fitter who told me set up a bolt in a vice and I was within a couple of pounds of it, so it's ok as a guide.I took my rear sprocket off to paint a few months ago and didn't tighten them up that tight but I did use thread lock.
Are you sure it's 100 nms seems a lot, you do mean the bolts that hold the sprocket to the hub?
100 Nm is correct, (boxeye is 60Nm) for the sprocket. Buy a torque wrench you need one to tighten the spindle too![/quoteJust had to add, I am a by the book kind of person, I read all the posts stating not to follow the manufacturers specs and I have successfully stripped the threads of one of my studs by torquing to 100NM/72lbft as stated in the manuals. It was a last minute sprocket change due to a manufacturers fault just before my planned trip which I have had to delay a few days. From now on I am going to use 38lbft! Wish someone bet me a beer, I need one![/size][/size]Found this on another forum, I think I would air on the side of caution, you may get away with it on nut bolts&Nuts, do not forget when you tighten and slacken then tighten again nuts & bolts some of the elsatisity is lost in the materails.
Quote from: chaz on 30 July 2015, 10:50:18 amAre you sure it's 100 nms seems a lot, you do mean the bolts that hold the sprocket to the hub?That's exactly what it says in the Haynes Manual:Rear sprocket nuts: 100 NmRear wheel axle nut: 120 NmI'm going to use Threadlock as well anyway.