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Topics - ArchDruid
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« on: 24 February 2023, 07:43:35 pm »
So, besides my modified Fazer, and FZR, and a YZF, I'm busy building another 'special'.
Which of you knowledgeable & experienced people can tell me what the differences are between the fox eye versions of the 1000 and the 600. I'm looking to buy a nose cone, headlights & mounting bracket for a separate (non- Fazer) bike project. I was leaning towards the FZS 600 fox eye set, but have been offered one from a 1000.
Question is mainly around the sizes..., not worried about mounting arrangements - those will be modded to suit anyway.
Are the 1000 versions narrower than the 600 versions ?Any other arbitrary info would help...
Thanks !!
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« on: 17 March 2021, 07:33:34 pm »
Original, in great condition, all tabs & mounts intact. No scratches. from 2005 model. Only got LHS. £25 plus postage
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« on: 10 November 2020, 05:06:38 pm »
Before I start taking things apart, I though I'd put it out there to see if someone could point me quickly in the right direction. My speedo reading has always had a stable reading regardless of the speed. But now I've noticed the needle is getting a bit 'jumpy'. It gets worse the faster I go. Starts getting nervous at about 50. At 70 it bounces around between 65 & 75. And at about 120, its bouncing around between 100 & 140  ). Anyone had a similar issue ?
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« on: 01 June 2020, 06:15:31 pm »
If any of you are considering a front suspension upgrade, I have a complete R1 Top & Bottom yoke set going cheap.
It’s the 4XV/ 5JJ version. I purchased this with the intention of using it, and repaired the Ignition key mounts (see pic) – someone had cut them off with a grinder, probably in desperation and unable to get the original security bolts out.
I eventually used a different version, and wont be needing this one any longer, so its going cheap.
Reasonable condition, with all the original nuts – although these would be different if you’re converting it for a Fazer.
£35 posted, or if that’s not good enough, make me an offer 😊
5
« on: 17 May 2020, 12:29:00 pm »
Hiya Folks
For all you guys that have tinkered with the R1 USD conversion …..
I’m looking for a R1 5PW bottom yoke (the 2002/2003 one with 25mm offset). One from an FZ1 or FZ8 would also be OK.
I only need the bottom piece, even without the stem would be fine.
I can part with a reasonable amount of cash, or alternatively, I have a complete R1 4XV/ 5JJ top & bottom set that I can offer as a swop.
6
« on: 25 August 2019, 11:09:28 am »
Recently painted Bodywork for Fazer 1000 Gen 1. 3 items: Fairing, rear cowling, and front mudguard. £100 excl postage. Tank not included, but I can provide paint codes for exact matching up. Prep & custom paintwork done by commercial professionals. Currently sitting in my loft. Would be ideal for someone's rebuild/ repair job (assuming you're happy with the colours  )
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« on: 05 August 2019, 12:52:00 pm »
Fuel Exhaust. Classic Oval shape with black ceramic finish.
Good Condition, Used, but no dents or scratches.
Hanger bracket and dB killer included.
Standard 2” inlet on the can will fit most bikes, but the link pipe shown here is from Fazer 1000 Gen 1.
£90 posted.
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« on: 25 March 2019, 12:42:24 pm »
Stainless Steel SP Engineering End Can, Oval (125 x 95mm)
Length of sleeve 340mm
including Link Pipe, oval bracket (hanging strap), and clamps as in pic.
no DB Killer/ Baffle
Good condition with signs of use, but a good polish will bring it up quite nicely.
£60 posted
9
« on: 10 March 2019, 11:13:52 am »
Hi
Can anyone tell me what is the length of the standard forks, from the centre of the axle to the top edge of the fork cap.
Looking for this measurement in 3 forms:
totally unweighted, with weight of bike alone, and a general idea of what it should be with bike + rider (when correctly set up).
Thanks !
10
« on: 10 May 2018, 06:56:52 pm »
Looking for some guidance on removing the Compression Damping adjuster assembly from the bottom of the forks. I’m planning on replacing fork seals, and getting the outer fork tubes painted while I’m at it (they’re looking rather shabby).
The Haynes manual gives me all the info on fork disassembly, (a procedure I’ve done before on other forks), but no insight into removing the adjuster – only has details on the actual adjustment itself. I expect that its not necessary to remove it for changing seals, etc. but I would prefer to take it out for the tube painting, rather than taping it up.
Is it just a question of undoing the main body (looks like a 19mm spanner) ? Whats behind it ?
Any info would help ! Thanks !
11
« on: 24 March 2018, 04:37:36 pm »
Stuff for Sale: (excluding Postage)
Fairing £60
Screen £20
Headlights - sold
Front subframe £40
Fairing inners £25 (pair) LHS OK, RHS damage repaired.
Seat £60 No Rips or holes, incl all rubbers
Grab Rails (pair) £40
Rear Cowling £50
Tail lights, £20 Incl rubber shroud,
Exhaust £70 (SP Engineering; slip-on only, no link pipe)
seat lock & cable assembly. £10 (incl key)
Photos available on request
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« on: 24 March 2018, 04:13:15 pm »
Probably not one for the purists - A monster amalgamation of some of my previous Yamaha toys - although it was frustrating on many an occasion. It took nearly 18 months to go from my photoshop idea to reality, but thats because I have a day job & a family, so spare time comes at a premium.
Fazer 1000 Gen 1 Engine & Frame, now backdated a bit, with Tail End frame mods to fit seat & rear cowl from a YZF 750 (circa 1995), and Front subframe mods to fit the Fairing & Headlights from an FZ 750 (circa 1985), but keeping the original clocks.
Retro - No ABS, no traction control, no chip-controlled throttle, no electronic fuel injection, no ride control modes, …
Pure Sports - Twist it, feel it, ride it ….. simple. And I love it.
By the way, I have the original parts available if anyone is looking to repair their Fazer Gen 1 ….
Front: Fairing, Screen, Headlights, Front subframe, Fairing inners.
Rear: Seat, Rear Cowling, Tail lights, Exhaust (slip-on only), seat lock & cable assembly.
13
« on: 11 February 2018, 07:49:31 pm »
I have my opinion on this, but I'd like to hear from others...
Assuming that colour matching was not an issue, would you powdercoat or paint ?
I have my Gen1 completely stripped and intending to have Frame, Swing arm & Wheels done.
Perhaps someone has some compelling arguments for one compared to the other.
I'd be interested to hear pro's & cons for both.
Cheers
14
« on: 04 February 2018, 09:30:46 pm »
Had my Gen1 Fazer for 18 months now, so today I began the long overdue exhaust refurbishment. (the skanky photos need no explanation ...) First two attempts with a hand socket wrench only served to shear the studs off. (Disappointing, but kinda expected). Then I decided to try my Impact driver – which I originally thought was a bit too heavy-duty for the 8mm studs. Turns out that each one came off fine, some with nut alone, others with the whole stud. (And I now have a lot more faith in my impact driver, ie, not just for wheel nuts !) So here’s my question: I have now removed all the flanges, and also the Exup cables, mid-lower mounting, and link pipe/ tailpiece. As far as I can see, there should be nothing left holding the headers in place. Is there some fancy trick to this… they seem rock solid…. Or is it just a question of wiggle, wiggle, & more wiggle. Is there something that I’m missing ? Causing me a major header-ache …
15
« on: 18 February 2017, 11:18:35 pm »
Hi Folks,
I’m trying to strip the forks to change the leaking seals on my FZS 1000 Gen1, but having difficulty loosening the damper cartridge bolt at the bottom of the shock – As expected, its turning the entire damper unit inside, without loosening ….
With my previous bikes I’ve always made my own tool to poke down the fork tube to hold whatever it was that was turning.
Intending to do the same here, but can anyone help me out with the (approximate ?) dimensions of the top part of the Damper Cartridge ?
Found a Yamaha Service Tool (# 90890-01447) on the web – from the pic it looks pretty easy to make up, (or at least something that will work), but it would be helpful if someone could give me an idea on the sizing – save me a bit of trial & error.
Anything else I need to look out for ?
Cheers/
16
« on: 24 July 2016, 01:16:17 pm »
Appreciate any comments/ info ...
I've read a lot on here about the R6 shock mod and am intending to convert. However, I'm also considering a swingarm mod at the same time.
Does anyone have any experience with exchanging the standard FZS1000 swingarm and putting in one from Fazer1k Gen2 / FZ1 / FZ8.
I'd be interested to hear of any differences in size and fitting, particularly around the pivot point - to understand what I would need to manufacture iro spacers/ collars (assuming its possible)
Also any other implications and/or challenges with shock mounting and linkages.
I haven't taken mine apart yet, so I would be grateful for any info/ measurements on the standard Gen1 unit, if available.
Cheers
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