I thought my bike was idling ok until I saw some vids on youtube of FZS600 yr 2000 (same as mine) with the RPM needle stuck on 1250 (or thereabouts but the key was the needle was stuck fast like a fuel injection system), not even twitching. Mine twitches probably between 1150 and 1350. Exact variations are not easy without a separate tacho as the gauge markers are so close; Anyway I've balanced the carbs with a Morgan Pro and there was no apparent vacuum leaks and the carbs were all balanced fine; the valve clearances were checked recently by me and were in tolerance and bang on; the bike has done 17K miles. New plugs and gaps checked + New air filter + new fuel filter all fitted last week.

TPS shows 5K when disconnected/reconnected but I was wondering if there is a slight adjustment that can be made and it would still read 5K but improve idle; for example, could it be turned a few degrees and still read 5K but improve idle; im not that good with electrics so dont want to attempt this without posting here first.

thanks.

Can someone please provide a link to a kit they have actually used, to clean and polish all its alloys and steel, on mi bike...levers,links,pegs etc

Thinking of a dremel or is this too small? would I be better off using a normal drill polish kit. Could I even get away without tool based cleaning and use some fan dangy super good cleaning fluids / compounds and rags/cloths

The steel is dark and black pits and blemishes. In some cases slightly rusty

The alloy is clean but dull with white marks/pitting/blemishes

i have looked on you tube and Google and different people swear by their methods but I could not find an article, on bikes, specific to cleaning and polishing old steel and alloy using products I can buy locally or easily (eBay uk)


Please could you impart your own experience as to what has worked for you

I'm only 170cm and short arms, I would like some risers to make things a bit more comfortable..

Seen these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CNC-30mm-BAR-RAISERS-RISERS-FOR-Yamaha-MT-03-FZS-600-1000-FZ1-FZ6-Fazer-XJ6-XJ9-/181457149320?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2a3fb05d88


But look a bit cheap and not fitting true and tight (in the images at least)

Can anyone recommend something they have actually used and find good quality

If you search for yam fzs 600 here .. http://www.scottoiler.com/us/installation-guides.html
They show a image of a well pulled yet rusty chain
Thinking of getting the tutoro auto but I guess they don't oil the outside of links either and thus do we get rusted chains. I currently use lube that lasts for a hundred miles ... maybe more ... or so before it vanishes (gold so you can see when it's gone) and my chains are always well lubed out and in. ?? What views have we this foccers?

... Used on:
Gear link rod
Gear arm
Front pegs

Mine are pitty and black instead of shiny

Thinking of electrolysis to clean... Because autosyl, alloy wheel cleaner and wire wool not helping.

TIA

No matter what I do , and how I do it, with  the calliper torque bar loosened and the rear axle nut just biting , and adjustment of each of the chain adjustment nuts - I cannot get the rear wheel markers to align. Everything lines up on each side of the swingarm but after  I torque up the axle nut, the l/h marker is just before the 3rd major mark (mark cannot be seen) and the r/h is just after the 3rd mark (mark can be seen). I' say there is about 2mm difference between the two

Tried 5 times , and yes the adjuster nuts are torqed up as it calliper nut, before I torque up the axle nut.

Is this slight discrepancy  ok or do the adjuster marks need to be bang on each side - mm perfect.