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Messages - ben
2
« on: 31 July 2023, 01:53:35 pm »
Would that be the needle jets? I will confess, I didn't take them out. Just took out the Pilot jet, main jet holder, and main jet.
So over the weekend, I thought I'd balance the carbs. Turns out they only needed minor tweaks, they didn't really need balancing. I also moved a breather tube as it was getting stuck on the carbs when lifting the tank, and checked to see if the coolant needed topping up (it didn't).
Someone suggested pulling out the choke when the stuttering starts. If it stops, then it confirms it's a fuel issue. So I went out for a ride and there was no stuttering. Absolutely ragged it for a good 20 mins and it was absolutely fine. I'm pretty sure none of the things I did would fix the problem. So who knows whats happened there. Maybe some crap got dislodged.
I don't like magically disappearing problems because I don't know when they're going to magically appear again. I'll try and test it out again a few times over the next week.
3
« on: 29 July 2023, 01:10:27 pm »
It is after 5-10 mins of riding. It seems to be a little intermittent. Sometimes banging the throttle open will stop it a bit, but it will start again when going off the throttle. Sometimes it will just sit at 85ish and not go any faster because of the stuttering.
I tried opening the fuel cap - no hiss. The fuel pump relay didn't tick when turning it back on. I even lifted up the tank to check the fuel filter and it was full of fuel, so I don't think it's a tank breathing issue.
Checked the carb rubbers. They're all on securely. They look a bit cracked but I think the cracking is just on the surface.
When i removed the carbs I cleaned the main and pilot jets.
Even tried balancing the carbs, but they were fine.
I've run out of ideas!
4
« on: 28 July 2023, 10:38:58 am »
This follows on from my post on cylinders 3&4 not firing. Managed to get those working by replacing the plug caps. Now I have a new problem! When riding for a bit at high RPM/speed (5-10 mins at 70+ MPH), the bike starts to stutter, which will turn into a misfire if I carry on. Then after a few mins at low RPM/speed the misfire/stutter goes away. I previouly took off the carbs and cleaned a load of gunk out of the float bowls and jets (didn't touch anything else). Things I have tried/checked: - Checked for kinks in tank breathers and fuel line.
- New fuel filter - previous one was installed backwards so couldn't see if it was blocked. It wasn't.
- New sparks.
- New spark caps (NGK straight) - Cut 10mm of the HT leads before installing
- New (2nd hand) regulator/rectifier.
- Checked coils - primary resistance out by .5 ohm, secondary resistance well in spec.
Anyone got any ideas?
5
« on: 28 July 2023, 10:09:14 am »
Oh, I've managed to get 3 & 4 firing (new plug caps solved it). The problem is now a stutter/misfire at high RPM. I'll make a new post, as the original issue has been solved.
6
« on: 27 July 2023, 07:13:39 pm »
2nd hand regulator/rectifier fitted today. Still the issue persists  I've got some new coils on the way, as the primary resistance is about half an ohm out on both. I don't expect they'll make much difference. The seconadary resistance is well in spec. Worth a try though. Has anyone else got any ideas?
7
« on: 26 July 2023, 09:32:00 am »
Quick update...
Yes, I did snip some of the HT leads before putting the new caps on. Checked the breathers and fuel line for kinking. All looks fine, but it's hard to tell when the tank is on. I also noticed the fuel filter was installed the wrong way round, so couldn't tell if it needed replacing, so I replaced it.
Still the issue persists. I've ordered a secondhand regulator/rectifier. It's cheap enough to give it a go. I'll post an update once I've fitted it.
8
« on: 24 July 2023, 10:29:40 am »
When riding for a while at high RPM (say 10 mins @ 70mph) it starts to stutter, which will develop into a proper misfire if I carry on. If I then ride for a while at low RPM, the misfire goes away.
9
« on: 24 July 2023, 10:12:49 am »
Ok, I replaced the caps with the straight NGK ones. For some reason that's fixed it. Despite previously swapping a cap from the non-working cylinder with a cap from a working one! Anyway, thanks for the advice! It still has a intermittent misfire, but I'll make another post for that one if I can't find any existing ones. Getting there slowly but surely 
10
« on: 21 July 2023, 04:53:36 pm »
I've got some NGK straight caps. I'll change them tonight and see what happens. I have tried swapping the cap with one from a working cylinder and it made no difference, so I'm not too hopeful, but you never know.
11
« on: 21 July 2023, 04:03:20 pm »
Oh, and they're the original caps.
12
« on: 21 July 2023, 04:02:34 pm »
So a little update... I re-installed the carbs after checking the jets on 3 & 4 to make sure they weren't clogs. All fine. Decided to change the sparks in 3 & 4 to see if that made any difference. It did! 3 & 4 are now firing!!! Success! The really weird thing, is that cylinder 1 is now not firing Changed the spark. Swapped the cap with the one from the now working 4. Even tried snipping the end of the HT lead. Nope! Still not working. HOW?!
13
« on: 18 July 2023, 10:29:54 am »
There is a wiring diagram in the back of the service manual ( https://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=downfile&id=8). You could compare the colour wires in your spare connector to the diagram and see if any of them match. As for the indicators, you could try a continuity test with a multimeter on the loom, to make sure the wiring is good? Might be worth a quick check of your fuses too.
14
« on: 17 July 2023, 08:37:33 pm »
I've got a misfiring fazer at the moment. Using the old hand on headers trick, it looks like 3 & 4 are not firing.
Background... The bike was sitting for about 2 years, and it was a periodically misfiring before it went into storage. When recommisioning it, I removed the carbs and cleaned a lot of gunk out of the float bowls. I also removed and cleaned the jets. When I put it back together, I found that I've now completely lost cylinders 3 and four. The headers on those cylinders are stone cold. I'm guessing I've messed something up, but I can't for the life of me figure out what.
Sparks, caps, and coils are fine. No kinks in breather tubes. I've removed the carbs again and there was fuel in the float bowls (not sure how much though).
Any ideas?
15
« on: 07 July 2023, 05:06:17 pm »
Unless they're visibly damaged, or corroded you should be fine. You can just about see daylight through them when they're clear. A bit of brass wire should do the trick.
16
« on: 07 July 2023, 03:22:28 pm »
I recently did this with mine. I used carb cleaner, a compressor to blow air through the jet, and a bit of wire from a brass wire brush. The jets are made from brass, so any stronger metals (e.g. steel) might damage the them.
17
« on: 06 July 2023, 10:13:52 am »
I had a read of that one, and unless I've missed something (which is entirely possible), it's talking about making sure that the TPS isn't buggered by checking the max resistance, and variance in resistance when the throttle is open/closed. I've already done this and the TPS is definitely still good. I just have no way of telling if it's set correctly, due to the aftermarket clocks.
In the Haynes manual (which is for the Fazer and the Thundercat), it explans how to set the TPS on the Thundercat using a multimeter: You find the max resistance, then set the min resistance (when the throttle is closed) to 0.116 x max resistance. Does anyone know if this will work for the Fazer?
18
« on: 05 July 2023, 02:46:22 pm »
Hi all!
I've got a poorly, misfiring, Fazer at the moment. Looking to do all the usual checks (plugs, caps, leads, coils, carb balance, etc). I'd also like to check the TPS but there is a problem... There is in aftermarket speedo/tacho unit on the bike which means I can't see any error codes, or any info from the TPS configuration mode.
Can the TPS setting become invalid after time? I took the carbs off, to give them a bit of a clean, but left the TPS on and didn't touch it. Assumed that it would be fine. The bike was working fine once, which means it was set correctly and hasn't been reset since. Is it likely that the TPS will need adjustment?
If so, can it be done with a multimeter? I've checked that the resistance is in range. And checked the varience in resistance when the throttle is open/closed. All is fine.
19
« on: 23 June 2021, 03:10:44 pm »
Yeah, I remember reading that somewhere. Was just thinking I might as well find out if the cheap ones are ok just in case. If there's a problem when mine come off, then I'll know which ones to get.
20
« on: 23 June 2021, 02:58:58 pm »
Hi all, Need to do a carb clean soon but my inlet rubbers are looking a bit cracked. There's a good chance they'll crumble/split when I take the carbs off. Going rate for a new set seems to be about £80 ( https://yambits.co.uk/fzs600-fazer-carb-inlet-rubbers-p-75890.html), but there are some cheap ones on ebay for around £20. Has anyone had any luck with the cheap ones? Don't really wanna fork out £80 unless I have to. Ta.
21
« on: 17 December 2020, 03:14:52 pm »
Hi everyone. New member here from Norfolk. I've posted a little already. Thought I should probably introduce myself. Picked up this little cafe racer/flat tracker modded '99 FZS600 not so long ago. Absolutely love the engine Gonna be trying to connect the original speed sensor and tacho to the aftermarket speedometer soon. I can post a little howto if I manage to get it working and people would be intereted in that? 
22
« on: 17 December 2020, 03:02:14 pm »
There could well have been some fairing damage. It's was a project bike. The previous owner did a flat tracker/cafe racer style mod of it. I'll do an introduction post with a pic!
I pulled the bars to the right on the side stand. The MC was at the same angle as when the bars are straight on the centre stand (about 25°). The 758's are definitely flatter, so hopefully they'll make the difference.
23
« on: 17 December 2020, 02:10:22 pm »
It's probably me not explaining things properly. Words are difficult  Have some pics. All pics are taken with the ground at 0°, so the way the angles look in the pics are the way they are in real life (hopefully). This is the bike on it's side stand:  And here's it on the centre stand:  So you see the reservoir is still and an angle, pointing down towards the centre of the bike. Here's the MC when the bike is on the centre stand, so you can kinda see how the fluid sits in there:  You can also just about see the the MC is set at an angle to the mount and brake lever, so on a flat bar the MC wouldn't be parallel with the bars. Actually, looking at the bars, theyt aren't as flat as I thought. I've got some 758's that I'm going to stick on there soon. Maybe that will make enough of a difference.
24
« on: 17 December 2020, 11:32:53 am »
Unfortunately the reservoir is sloped towards the centre of the bike. So putting it on the side stand actually makes the angle worse. I had to lean the bike way over to the right just so I could fill it up to somewhere near max without it spilling. I suppose it’s not too much of an issue. You can get just enough fluid in there to bleed the brakes, but you need to be super careful to keep it topped up. I’ve got plenty of rags and blue roll to wrap the bike in, just in case any fluid spills. It just annoys me that it’s not parallel with the bar I'm tempted to try and find something off a different bike, but I'm not sure what would be suitable.
25
« on: 17 December 2020, 11:08:24 am »
I purchased a modified Fazer back in September and the previous owner put flatter bars on it. The front break master cylinder reservoir is not parallel with the brake lever. This means that now, when the bike is upright, the reservoir is sloped at an angle and not parallel with the floor.
I found out the problem with this the hard way. I went to drain the brake fluid while fitting new brake hoses. Took the cap off the reservoir and got covered in brake fluid. When replacing the fluid I had to lean the bike over to make sure I could put enough in without any spilling out.
Has anyone changed to flat bars? If so, did you do anything to make the reservoir level with the floor when the bike is upright? Maybe replace it with a different one from another bike? Or are you just careful when replacing fluid and bleeding your brakes?
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