I set the TPS so the tach needle flickers between 5 & 10k rpm.  A small amount of advance over the stock setting. 

You could also do Ivan's dynamic method which is described on Pat's Site, too.  You'll end up with the ignition advanced again.  I find my way quicker and less likely to piss off the neighbours.

Yamaha suspension fluid 01 is rated at 7w. 

The thing about most progressive springs fitted as OE is they're a compromise solution, intended deal with the wide range of rider weights and styles.

Fitting linear springs appropriate to the bike and your weight combined is generally felt to be a better way of approaching things. 

I suggest you speak to a couple of the suspension specialists advertising in MCN and take their advice.

I will say that the Hyperpro springs are much better suited to the Fazer than the ones fitted by Yamaha.

Not heard of anyone doing this before.  You'd need to check part numbers to confirm.

The valve and pulley from an 98/99 R1 definitely fits.

Yup, shorter lever throw makes for quicker, more positive gearchanges ... at least, that's what I found.  Worth doing.

Oil filter comes out easily enough, although it's a good idea to loosen it slightly before you warm the engine.   Some folks put tin foil over the headers to keep the oil off them. 

Any semi-synth that meets the viscosity rating will be fine.  Halfords as good as any.  I use a diesel oil rather than bike-specific because it's a lot cheaper where I live but in the UK, I'd say stick with bike-specific stuff.

If you can get iridium plugs on special offer (check ebay) they work out almost the same price as regular plugs.  In that case, worth fitting for the longer life but otherwise, I noticed no difference when I put them in mine.

Hey Mike
Your pipes looked tanned rather than dirty

That's a good way of looking at it.   

Actually, they suffer most because I store and handle pool chemicals in my garage and the chlorine dust has a tendency to get everywhere.  Add a little humidity and it soon takes its toll on shiny bare metal. 

Dremels are great but a little on the small side for this sort of job.  Worth investing a few quid in a pukka polishing kit comprising the various mops and compounds.  Ebay has dozens on offer, some for a little as a tenner.  Slot the mandril into your drill and crack on, finish with your metal polish of choice.

I attacked the Akra headers off my Fazer a few days ago.  Single-skin stainless, they'd suffered a bit since I fitted them 2 years ago but a few hours with the drill and mops and they came up a treat.

From this:




To this:



and finally this:

The connector CT referred to is the one mentioned here.

Hi Minty and welcome.

Removing the AIS does nothing to affect performance and won't cause you problems at MOT time.  Most of us do it to improve access to the plugs and to tidy up the top of the motor.

More here.  Ignore the emissions disclaimer as it's a US site.  You will find loads more useful stuff on the same site.

Mike

Dave, you always do a super job with your bikes.  This one is no different.

Oh, and your first Fazer 1000 is now in my garage. 

Mike

Cable Tie.. is there anything you haven't done on that machine of yours?    Looks bang tidy, mate

Yeah.

Ride it.

 

And then sell it ...

 

Your problem is less the occasional 7k tacho error (indicating that the valve is just nipping up slightly until heat/vibes free it up) than the inevitable corrosion that will have seized the bolts solid by now.

Servicing the EXUP every minor service and reassembling with copper grease will stop the bolts from doing this.  That's what's meant by 'preventative maintenance'.   In this case, fixing when broke is going to be more of a pain than it need have been.

Although the carrier element of copper grease burns off, the copper itself does help to keep the valve moving properly. 

Mike

PS.  Yamaha don't say you should service the EXUP every minor service.  In fact, they don't mention the EXUP in the any of the service intervals which is utterly ludicrous!