Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner => Topic started by: Falcon 269 on 01 August 2015, 04:17:57 pm
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After years of reading others' misfortune with total electrical failures, it happened to me today. Fortunately it wasn't in the middle of nowhere and I managed to sort it and limp home. :)
Inside the rubber boot forward and left side of the carbs there's a cluster of electrical connectors, including a couple of red ones. One of these is a 2-pin connector taking power to the ignition switch. As you can see from the photo, mine had severely overheated to the point of melting the connector block and the wire insulation.
I'm going to replace the connector and damaged wire tomorrow but I discovered from another old thread on the FZ1OA that one of the red wires leading to the connector is actually the feed from two red wires which are crimped together further back in the loom. Apparently, corrosion or dirt in this crimp can be the root cause of the overheating so I'm going to check that, too.
Might be worth taking a look at yours next time you have the tank up. ;)
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Corrosion? - in your neck of the woods?
Or d'ya take the bike to work with you - chlorine - it gets everywhere.
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I think it looks like grease could of affected it. If grease was between the two it would short out, causing to over heat. Try to use good quality sealed type connecter when you replace. Maybe you could try a continuity test to see if the wiring is ok. that might save you striping back the loom.
Vince
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No grease there at all. I've cleaned the contacts in the past with electrical cleaner but as Septikangel says, corrosion due to water ingress is not a problem for me. The wettest my bike gets is being washed every couple of months :lol
There has been a certain amount of chlorine dust residual in the garage over the years due to me storing and handling pool chemicals there and this might have been a contributory factor. However, I think it's mostly age that's to blame, hence the suggestion that others might want to look at these connectors during routine maintenance. :)
I'm not an electrical testing wizard so I think visual inspection will be the most reliable way for me to check that all's well when I do the repairs. Quality connector already to go, too. :)
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A common enough problem and not just with Yamaha and cleaning with electrical contact cleaner did not help. Electrical contact cleaner does just that "cleans" but does not protect. If you use electrical contact cleaner than you should apply something to protect the contacts like Silicone Dielectric Grease or WD40 if in a hurry
For a repair try the 30amp version of these.
http://www.torberry.co.uk/superbasket/product/452/Mixed+Powerpole+Pack+-+Red+%26+Black+-+Pack+of+10+with+15+or+30+amp+contacts (http://www.torberry.co.uk/superbasket/product/452/Mixed+Powerpole+Pack+-+Red+%26+Black+-+Pack+of+10+with+15+or+30+amp+contacts)
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Thanks, unfazed - good advice, as always. :)
I have used WD-40 as a protective spray on all the connectors in the past but will try to track down some dielectric grease here in Spain this time. Luckily I had a couple of good quality 30amp connectors in the garage but will look to get some more of the type you recommended, just in case.
Cheers!
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Is ACF50 any good for preventing this type of thing on electrical contacts? From my experience with it so far it seems pretty good at displacing moisture and stopping corrosion and seems to stick around longer than WD40. When doing any work on the bike I tend to spray some ACF50 into the contact blocks that I've uncovered as it's pretty quick & easy to apply and I know it "creeps" around the areas it's applied to so gives good coverage.
Looking at dielectric grease it seems mainly to come as a grease in a pot although you can get some aerosolised versions. If the consensus is that it would be significantly better than ACF50 for protecting the electrical contacts what's the best type to get and method of application if using the grease from a pot?
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I use this stuff on electrical connections - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Servisol-Silicone-Grease-with-High-Electrical-Insulation-50g-Tube-/230785897009?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item35bbe95231 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Servisol-Silicone-Grease-with-High-Electrical-Insulation-50g-Tube-/230785897009?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item35bbe95231)
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I got a tube of electrical grease (can't remember the name) from Maplins, it is specifically made for outside use such as TV / satellite equipment. I remember reading the bumf at the time that said it has a mild acid ingredient that 'burns' off any corrosion to ensure a good contact. I've used it on every single connector on my bike.
Jim.
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Silicone grease is fine on connectors, I'd be wary of using it near switch contacts though.
Carbon-based greases will oxidise to gases in the high temperatures of an arc, whereas silicone leaves silica which can insulate the contact area.
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Coincidentally I had the exact same fault only last week! lol... :( (2002 Full Monty gen 1 with 50k miles on the clock, always garaged, but washed virtually after every use...)
I initially had a problem with my lights shorting out and blowing a fuse. This worked out to be a spade connection that came lose from my front brake lever and was shorting out on my handle bars... :\
Anyhow, whilst searching for this short I also discovered the exact same burnt out electrical block cable as you Mike. So I popped down to Maplin and got a replacement 30Amp (Optimate type) connector and 30Amp cable. I must have been just around the corner of having a Total Electrical Failure myself! :rolleyes
All fixed now though + some WD40 action and a check of all the other electrical connections etc...
There's another electrical block inside this rubber boot that replaced last year for the same thing! It's the white one with about 6 feeds running through it." Definitely worth checking out / replacing if not done already" ;)
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Hey Jase, I also replaced that 6-feed white connector some years ago as a precaution because that one is known to be prone to failure. A reminder for those new to the Gen 1:
http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/eskortsdefectiveconnectorreplacement.shtml (http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/eskortsdefectiveconnectorreplacement.shtml)
Mine also is a 2002 with 54k miles so owners of older or higher mileage Gen 1s should maybe bear both these connector issues in mind. :)
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Hey Jase, I also replaced that 6-feed white connector some years ago as a precaution because that one is known to be prone to failure. A reminder for those new to the Gen 1:
[url]http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/eskortsdefectiveconnectorreplacement.shtml[/url] ([url]http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/eskortsdefectiveconnectorreplacement.shtml[/url])
Mine also is a 2002 with 54k miles so owners of older or higher mileage Gen 1s should maybe bear both these connector issues in mind. :)
Falcon, Interesting they used the same powerpole connectors in that website that I suggested in my post.
Used them previously when repairing the alternator circuit in a Nissa Primera, great piece of kit
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How about that, then? Nice to know where to get them in the UK. I used something different at the time I did mine but checked yesterday and they're still in perfect nick 6 years on. :)
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I'm still unsure as to how you use the dielectric grease if it comes in a pot or tube. where / how do you apply it to an electrical connector block?
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A word of advice when repairing electrical connections which have failed like Falcons;keep remove the insulation until you get back as far as shiny clean copper before you attempt any repair. Cut out the corroded dirty wire and replace the section if necessary.
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I had to go back 2 - 3 inches in each direction to achieve this.
I found the 2 red wires crimped to one red about 1" from the 90 deg join in the loom where the wires from the bundle in the rubber boot meet the rest of the loom running along inside the left-hand frame rail. The crimp was clean and corrosion free, so wrapped it all up and taped it neatly again.
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Note to self move the pool chemicals from the garage to the pool house tomorrow.