Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner => Topic started by: Triggergee on 25 April 2018, 07:49:46 am
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Hi just wondering if anyone has any advise on this subject. I've just removed bent Renthal bars and replaced with the same (Renthal 755) new bars so now need to fit the end weights and as some of you probably know renthals don't come with threaded ends.
The old bars had the very heavy 307g original Fazer 1000 threaded weights in which seemed to've kept vibrations to a minimum although as the bikes new to me I have no frame of reference.
As I don't have a tap and die set big enough to thread the new bars my options seem to be either £41 for a tap and die set so I can use the old weights or £26 for these which are heavier than many others at 130g but less than half that of the oem ones
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F362095049123 (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F362095049123)
So if I go with the cheaper, quicker and better looking option with the R&G weights am I likely to feel more vibrations through the bars?
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Cant you fill the bars with something? Lead shot, sand?
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If you've got an engineering workshop near you, they'd be able to run a tap down the bar ends. I had the same dilemma, as after market weights that are as heavy as the Fazers are really expensive. Maybe you could hire a tap and die set. You need a 16mm tap @ 16 TPI (threads per inch). Initially I was told that it was necessary to run a 15mm drill bit down the bars, which have a 14mm inside diameter, before tapping them, but this has since been proved unnecessary. Good luck.
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If you've got an engineering workshop near you, they'd be able to run a tap down the bar ends. I had the same dilemma, as after market weights that are as heavy as the Fazers are really expensive. Maybe you could hire a tap and die set. You need a 16mm tap @ 16 TPI (threads per inch). Initially I was told that it was necessary to run a 15mm drill bit down the bars, which have a 14mm inside diameter, before tapping them, but this has since been proved unnecessary. Good luck.
Any idea what I'd likely be charged for a engineering place to do it? If it's very little it would be a good idea but I wouldn't want to spend close to the value of buying my own set as at least then I've got the tool afterwards. Any thoughts on vibration changes with lighter end weights?
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I live in the south where workshop time would be around £75 an hour, so expect a charge for half an hour, unless you know someone. I wouldn't have thought the average set would include a tap that large, but don't really know that as fact. That's why I suggested the possibility of hiring.
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I live in the south where workshop time would be around £75 an hour, so expect a charge for half an hour, unless you know someone. I wouldn't have thought the average set would include a tap that large, but don't really know that as fact. That's why I suggested the possibility of hiring.
Thought it might be a bit pricey, I'm in the southwest so prices are probably as you say. The average set doesn't go as big as needed but this set https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F372083323352 (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F372083323352) does have a 16mm X 1.5mm tap which according to my measurements and what you say is the correct bit. It's £41 so about the same as half hour labour and although it's not going to be the best quality tool kit it should still do the job.
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I've had renthal 758's on both my fazers and didn't have weights in either. I used the renthal plastic plugs (just thin inserts that cover the holes) and never had any issues with vibration, certainly not more than the standard ones.
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If you're anywhere near Exeter I had a set of Renthals tapped out to take the OEM bar ends for £20.
My own experience is that the weight of the OEM bar ends does help prevent vibration felt through the bars, I could easily feel the difference between OEM and lightweight aftermarket which is why I got the bars tapped.
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If you're anywhere near Exeter I had a set of Renthals tapped out to take the OEM bar ends for £20.
My own experience is that the weight of the OEM bar ends does help prevent vibration felt through the bars, I could easily feel the difference between OEM and lightweight aftermarket which is why I got the bars tapped.
Thanks for the offer but I've just bought some lovely blue Renthals which I quite like. I'm sure Yamaha wouldn't have put such heavy ends on the bars for no reason and although the Renthals are longer so maybe don't need the same weight on the end I think I'd still prefer to have the OEM weights on there. Think I'm going to order the tap and die kit...
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Oberon used to do very heavy stainless end weights that didn't need the bars tapped, the just bolt in with an expanding bolt setup.
Personally, I've tried various setups with no difference in vibration at all. I'm currently using R&G weights that screw into the standard bars and I can't feel any difference in vibration.
Jim.
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It must differ from bike to bike, i have fitted very light bar end mirrors to my thou & it meant that the bar end weights wouldn't re-fit but i have no problem with vibration.
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Oberon used to do very heavy stainless end weights that didn't need the bars tapped, the just bolt in with an expanding bolt setup.
Personally, I've tried various setups with no difference in vibration at all. I'm currently using R&G weights that screw into the standard bars and I can't feel any difference in vibration.
Jim.
If your talking about the R&G stainless with slider ends those were the ones I was looking at and the screw in ones are about 200g each compared to the 307g OEM which is closer than most others. Hopefully I'll tap out the Renthals properly and then at least I can change to the R&G weights at some point
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Try riding the bike without the weights, I’ll be surprised if you notice much difference if at all! That’s been my experience, having said that some bikes vibrate more than others, I’m on my forth fazer and my second one vibrated like bast@rd! My current one is a beaut, really smooth.
Jim.
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Can you not just buy a single tap the right size ? use a spanner to turn it, the bars don't need drilling out first. I got a mate nearby who had the right size, took him about 5 mins in a vice
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My Renthals are tapped for the OEM bar ends & I find them to make quite a difference.
Having just fitted some Acerbis Dual Road hand guards I could not use the weights as well....makes a noticeable difference - also at high speeds the front end wobble seems worse without the weights.
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I probably should've taken the bike out without them to see if it feels different but it keeps raining and I'm driving to Spain on it in May I just didn't feel like waiting.
Not sure if I could buy a single tap, didn't see any so I ordered the kit which should be with me tomorrow or the day after. Comfort is pretty much my only reason for upgrading to the 1000 from the 600 so I didn't want to take the chance as the vibration of the 600 was my biggest complaint and when your planning on driving from Bristol to the south of France in one day every little helps...
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Too late if you've already ordered but...you can buy individual 16x1.5 carbon steel taps (taper, second or plug) from Tracy Tools for £10 each + postage.
https://www.tracytools.com/taps-and-dies/metric-taps-dies/16-x-15-metric (https://www.tracytools.com/taps-and-dies/metric-taps-dies/16-x-15-metric)
Maybe of some use for others though?
Rob
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M16-x-1-5-HSS-Tap-Right-Hand-Ground-Thread-Straight-flute-UK-supplier-/253544874814?var=&hash=item80b1c3a126 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M16-x-1-5-HSS-Tap-Right-Hand-Ground-Thread-Straight-flute-UK-supplier-/253544874814?var=&hash=item80b1c3a126)
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Bollocks :'(
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Bollocks :'(
Do you know for certain that the set that you have posted the link to has the M16 X 1.5mm tap in it?
The set appears to have 20 taps but in fact it looks like there are only 10 tap sizes as each of the 10 seems to have a taper/starter tap and a plug tap.
if it does have the size you want I think your option choice is better than buying a single tap, as you will have the whole set of tap and dies now for future use, get a broken stud at any point and you will be really glad you bought the set.
It is not something that you will use that often so a good spray with WD40 before they go in the drawer in the shed or garage will keep then in fine fettle.
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Chinese so probably made of cheese. I would never buy anything other than HSS taps and dies, even for occasional DIY use buying cheap is a false economy. If the tap breaks in the hole you will be in a world of pain....
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Chinese so probably made of cheese. I would never buy anything other than HSS taps and dies, even for occasional DIY use buying cheap is a false economy. If the tap breaks in the hole you will be in a world of pain....
Ahh! that puts a different light on the matter, I did not realise they were made by Primular.
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I bloody hope it has the right size! It says it does so if it's not there it will be going back. I completely agree with you teecee90, if it is made of cheese I hope it's more Parmesan than cheddar. nearly all my tools are high quality and I often regret any cheap ones which found their way into my collection. On this occasion I just couldn't afford the expensive kits as this year has been extraordinarily expensive and then I decided to buy a bike :lol , saying that I just spent £65 on a vice to try push a bush into a suspension linkage for my dad's vmax 1700 trike...the bloke who runs the company who built the trike clearly doesn't like me as there is no way a vice has enough pressure, it's become obvious it's a hydraulic press job! Bent the handle on a vice with a 2000kg max load and didn't get any movement pushing out the old bush.
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Couldn't tap it, lost my temper and snapped the tap wrench. Must've been made of cheese... Just ordered the clamp in style lighter R&G bar ends, hope they fit as I've drilled out the bars to 15mm and to top off my shitty day my rear tyre (conti sport attack 3) which only has maybe 500 miles is flat with a screw in it.
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Shame you've had such a mare with the Renthals, hopefully you'll get it all sorted
Feel your pain regarding the tyre, had a very similar scenario last year, although chuck in a load of French rain for good measure. Chin up bud. :)
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Yeah pretty pissed off but sometimes life just goes that way. Odd thing last time I had to change my rear tyre on the 600 was a slow puncture from metal in it and the tyre was less than 1000 miles old and now I've got the same issue with the front 600 tyre, also less than 1000 mile on it and now the virtually new 1000 tyre. The road must dislike me or something
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Original Kryptonite weigh a ton Yamaha bar ends aren't just heavy to damp vibes, they also damp down bar shake (ie) tank slapper type oscillation.
I've got a set of R&G's on my 1000, filled Renthal bars with a tube of Silicone sealer, damps vibes to next to nothing, plus I always check my front wheel balance too as tyre wears... I know I'm OCD as Fook...lol...
All depends on how much vibes you're happy with really?
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Hhmmm filled with silicone... I like that idea and I must have a tube of it somewhere in the house. I'm not a fan of vibrations and don't want to feel any so will try the silicone, also got the R&G clamp in ends now and the vibes aren't too bad plus they look better than the yam ones
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I've just threaded my rentals for the stock bar weights. Found that I needed to run a 14mm masonry drill bit through first (by hand) to open the hole up a bit before tapping. Got the weights powder coated to tidy them up also. Not sure whether to shorten the bars a bit or leave them alone.
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Not sure whether to shorten the bars a bit or leave them alone.
If you use counter / positive steering then the extra width of the bars gives you better control and I would leave them as is.