wait for it dark then spray some water over the ht leads and cap and see if you can see very small sparks if you do then you need to change them hopefully it will be the caps if not new or second hand set off coils
As above, new spark plugs and/or caps will likely sort that. Cylinders 3 & 4 are usually exposed to the elements if your bike spends anytime outside on the side stand. Spark plugs corrode, and a build up of dirt, water and corrosion around them doesn't help.
Firstly you've not mentioned the air filter at all, when was it last changed and what type/brand do you have?If the bike can't breathe properly then it will affect the idle and lower revs, but can also hold you back at higher revs if it's particularly dirty.Have you even looked into the airbox, it could be clogged up with emulsified oil as well, which my bike has had before.As mentioned are the HT leads and caps okay?You can trim the ends off the HT leads by 5-10mm, and maybe try new plug caps. Don't bother with new OEM ones as the price will make you fall over, but a lot of us have replaced them with NGK ones which work fine and are a great price.http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.TRS0&_nkw=SD05F+&_sacat=0A carb balance by the way will only work well when everything else is running properly.So if your air filter is clogged (or you have an air leak), your TPS is breaking down or knackered, or your spark plug caps are on their way out then a carb balance will be irrelevant and can even make things worse.Even the TPS positioned wrongly can make the bike feel a tad jerky at lower revs, i would do a check on that too, i'm on my 4th one now although this time i bought a brand new one at a much lower price than over here from Germany as it was all getting a bit silly buying used ones that were at least 13 years old and likely to peg out at any time.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Drosselklappensensor-TPS-101-Yamaha-FZS-600-DROSSELKLAPPE-13550-13D60-4HD-85885-/361403667980?hash=item542556560c:g:svIAAOSw2s1UxgsX
Quote from: topgun44 on 21 July 2016, 10:07:24 pmwait for it dark then spray some water over the ht leads and cap and see if you can see very small sparks if you do then you need to change them hopefully it will be the caps if not new or second hand set off coils Thanks for the tip, I will check this tonight.Quote from: Bretty on 21 July 2016, 11:35:28 pmAs above, new spark plugs and/or caps will likely sort that. Cylinders 3 & 4 are usually exposed to the elements if your bike spends anytime outside on the side stand. Spark plugs corrode, and a build up of dirt, water and corrosion around them doesn't help.The bike has been kept inside for the last year, the year before it was outside but on the centre stand and usually with a rain cover. But it probably had it's share of exposure to the elements since the #3 spark plug was stuck in the cylinder head. Several months of soaking it in WD40 and working it back and forth did the trick. When the carbs were put back in for the second time new plugs were fitted. I'm definitely going to check the caps and the leads!Quote from: darrsi on 22 July 2016, 06:54:35 amFirstly you've not mentioned the air filter at all, when was it last changed and what type/brand do you have?If the bike can't breathe properly then it will affect the idle and lower revs, but can also hold you back at higher revs if it's particularly dirty.Have you even looked into the airbox, it could be clogged up with emulsified oil as well, which my bike has had before.As mentioned are the HT leads and caps okay?You can trim the ends off the HT leads by 5-10mm, and maybe try new plug caps. Don't bother with new OEM ones as the price will make you fall over, but a lot of us have replaced them with NGK ones which work fine and are a great price.http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.TRS0&_nkw=SD05F+&_sacat=0A carb balance by the way will only work well when everything else is running properly.So if your air filter is clogged (or you have an air leak), your TPS is breaking down or knackered, or your spark plug caps are on their way out then a carb balance will be irrelevant and can even make things worse.Even the TPS positioned wrongly can make the bike feel a tad jerky at lower revs, i would do a check on that too, i'm on my 4th one now although this time i bought a brand new one at a much lower price than over here from Germany as it was all getting a bit silly buying used ones that were at least 13 years old and likely to peg out at any time.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Drosselklappensensor-TPS-101-Yamaha-FZS-600-DROSSELKLAPPE-13550-13D60-4HD-85885-/361403667980?hash=item542556560c:g:svIAAOSw2s1UxgsXI did check the air filter, it was a bit dirty, not too much though and I managed to shake and brush away most of the dirt out, I put it back in because I didn't have a new one at the time. The box is clean but the small breather filter had some gunk in it which I cleaned out. Rubber inlets are intact. I'm gonna get a new air filter just in case, should I get the OEM one like the one I have or should I go the K&N route? Or is the high flow of the K&N going to screw everything up more?Thanks so much for the link to the plug caps, they are at a great price! I did notice though that they don't have the 45 degree (more or less) elbow but I guess you didn't have issues with that since it has been done many times.I checked the position of the TPS with the speedometer, it showed a tad over 5000 RPM so I twisted it back on forth and made it land on 5000 but theres a lot of leeway on both sides before the RPM needle drops up or down. How can you tell if the sensor is failing? You mentioned that you're on the 4th now, did you measure the resistance in the faulty one when replacing it with a new one?Last but maybe fundamentally not least, the last fuel level measurement showed that carb #3 & #4 have about 1mm higher fuel level, could this tiny difference cause all this uneven running? Like I mentioned initially, cylinder #3 & #4 are running cooler that the rest, what's the logic here, is it because they don't get enough fuel or is it because they are getting too much fuel? Gonna check the spark plugs for colour later to get some indication.Thanks for all the replies!
It sounds like it doesn't run on all 4 when idling and in low RPMs, but mid range and top is great. It passed MOT today and since I was at the shop they checked the temperature on each cylinder, 3 & 4 are running much cooler than the rest.
Quote from: 7uckyDog on 21 July 2016, 09:59:39 pmIt sounds like it doesn't run on all 4 when idling and in low RPMs, but mid range and top is great. It passed MOT today and since I was at the shop they checked the temperature on each cylinder, 3 & 4 are running much cooler than the rest.That's just how mine was running up until a few weeks ago (except it was only cooler on down-pipe number 3).The workshop did an ultrasonic clean of the carbs and also fitted a new set of spark plugs.Apparently the main culprit was a blocked primary jet in number 3 carb.
I didn't read all the thread so this might have been suggested already but you said the initial problem was a rusty tank? Did you treat the rust in the tank? Or did you solve why it was going rusty in the first place? Was there water getting into it? You might have more water in there or more rust has got through clogging up the pilot jets. I think there's a filter in the tank too did you clean that? And did you replace the inline filter? If you've had rust problems in the past I'd be leaning towards a fuel supply issue than a spark issue
There's one on the fuel tap in the tank. Come to think of it I had a mate who bought a bike with a rusty tank and he treated the tank with a sealer. It was running fine off a fuel bottle but it wouldn't idle when the tank was hooked up. Maybe he sealed up the filter when he was sealing the tank
How much does utrasonic cleaning cost?With the pain you're going through i'd be inclined to consider either handing it over to a pro with the bike and let them sort it, or even buying a used set of carbs.I know that's not ideal, especially if you prefer to do stuff yourself and don't want to be beaten by it, but i'm personally too impatient and would want it sorted asap.I dunno where you are but i've always given my bike to these lot when i've had carb/running troubles, not cheap but they certainly get the job done properly while you wait.http://pdq1.com/services/http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xfzs+600+carbs.TRS0&_nkw=fzs+600+carbs&_sacat=0
How much does utrasonic cleaning cost?
Quote from: darrsi on 29 July 2016, 07:19:07 amHow much does utrasonic cleaning cost?With the pain you're going through i'd be inclined to consider either handing it over to a pro with the bike and let them sort it, or even buying a used set of carbs.I know that's not ideal, especially if you prefer to do stuff yourself and don't want to be beaten by it, but i'm personally too impatient and would want it sorted asap.I dunno where you are but i've always given my bike to these lot when i've had carb/running troubles, not cheap but they certainly get the job done properly while you wait.http://pdq1.com/services/http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xfzs+600+carbs.TRS0&_nkw=fzs+600+carbs&_sacat=0Yeah I like to do stuff myself since I can do a good job but I haven't done many carbs. I understand how they work but I prefer much more electronic injection as it's more reliable and you can do a custom mapping instead of painful jetting. I'm rarely beaten by mechanical things but last month I gave up on this and took the bike to a shop for carb balancing as I thought that might be a solution but the bike came out worse and was drowning in fuel, you could just smell it. I wasn't very happy and obviously took it back but now it's just back to how it was, waste of money that was.Used set of carbs is something I have thought about already but they all look so filthy on eBay so it would be just another cleaning job and probably a risk of getting a carb that is in a worse state than mine.I have almost totally lost my patience on this so I called PDQ (thanks for the suggestion) and they are booked until the third week of September! I had a long chat with one of their guys though and he confirmed my suspicion about the passage that lies beneath the pilot jet. He didn't recommend ultrasonic cleaning though, old school elbow grease is much better he said. He recommended getting a nylon wire or something small into the passage, give it a scrub with carb cleaner and blow it out. Hopefully that is going to save my mentality!
Gotta remember the age of these bikes so unless you buy new then all carbs are gonna look grubby, it's what's going on inside that counts though.For the record, a new set of carbs is £611, but you do get a free delivery
Dont know if this helps but I recently ordered 4 carburettor overhaul kits from M & P direct. They came in packaging showing maker "Tourmax"made in Japan suitable for FZS 600 1998-2001. ref no 7245384 Vergaser (German for carb) Rep STZ CAB-Y73. Cost for four inc p&p £42-95.Fitted fine & bike running well. Cant say I noticed any markings on actual needle valve assemblies but my eyes are as old as the rest of me-dont ask! I can understand variation in size of main,pilot,starter jets but why would there be a need for different sizes of the needle valve?Sounds like you have an over supply of fuel on 2 carbs-maybe recheck condition of "O" rings,floats, & float heights on offending carbs.