Author Topic: Coolant drip above engine- Fixed! Thanks for all your help :) (Read 10913 times)

YamFazFan · « **Reply #25 on:** 23 December 2016, 08:20:25 pm »

I've just been on the oil selector section of the Castrol website and it shows the Power 1 Racing 4T oil for the FZS 600.

That's the fully synthetic one isn't it?.

fazersharp · « **Reply #26 on:** 23 December 2016, 08:28:59 pm »

There is also a Power 1 4t (none racing ) this http://www.halfords.com/motoring/motorcycling/motorcycle-oils/castrol-power-1-4t-10w-40-motorcycle-engine-oil-1ltr
Which is what I have which is semi synth

mogster · « **Reply #27 on:** 23 December 2016, 08:45:49 pm »

bah humbug
as i understand fully synth eats clutch plates but is better for the engine at higher revs
merry berry

YamFazFan · « **Reply #28 on:** 23 December 2016, 08:59:39 pm »

I remember reading several times in other places in the past about avoiding fully synthetic oils in wet sump bikes and have opted for semi-synth myself, but it seems there's lots of fully synthetic available for just such use $:\$

darrsi · « **Reply #29 on:** 23 December 2016, 09:47:18 pm »

Go for the semi synthetic grade then.
The point i was making was i found decent oil at a good price.

5 litres of Westway Oil semi is £18.99 on Ebay, even more of a bargain!

rw711 · « **Reply #30 on:** 23 December 2016, 11:43:50 pm »

Wow you go out to drive a bus for a few hours and come back to 2 pages of oil debate!

thanks for the exhaust clamp link got one on the way and a gasket seal, incidentally its cheaper to buy them on their own rather than together on Ebay. ( Take a look at mad4bikes on Ebay if you haven't already-

freepost too)

FWIW think oil is or can be a personal choice, I cant see the sense in paying extra for brandnames as you can check grades/spec etc through labelling.
- as to semi/fully synthetic I've personally always gone down the semi route, partly on grounds of type of use and price.

I'd read about aggressive qualities of fully synth on the Kawasaki forums , if you are going to be regularly racing or thrashing the bike then its maybe worthwhile as you may need to replace parts affected more often anyway. I reckon for road use semi-synth is gonna be plenty good enough.

The Westway stuff would be in contention except they wont ship to my postcode (Highlands & Islands) despite my address being on the mainland which is a personal bugbear of mine - I could get it sent to our Glasgow depot and bring it down on the bus though.

darrsi · « **Reply #31 on:** 23 December 2016, 11:49:29 pm »

To be honest, the recommended oil change is 6000 miles, i change mine every 4000 miles.
I spoil my bike, just a little, so for the money, and timespan, the oil is generally always good anyway.

rw711 · « **Reply #32 on:** 23 December 2016, 11:53:50 pm »

Yep I noticed there were differing service intervals from reading up mine is a 5DMC model so should be good for 6000 changes but gonna do every 5k, just for the simple reason its easier to remember! I'll count the first one as 50k - then do 55, 60 etc etc. even though its 51k atm

darrsi · « **Reply #33 on:** 24 December 2016, 12:33:46 am »

Quote from: rw711 on 23 December 2016, 11:53:50 pm

Yep I noticed there were differing service intervals from reading up mine is a 5DMC model so should be good for 6000 changes but gonna do every 5k, just for the simple reason its easier to remember! I'll count the first one as 50k - then do 55, 60 etc etc. even though its 51k atm

Models mean nothing, the engines are the same, hence the reason we're still chatting about them now

rw711 · « **Reply #34 on:** 24 December 2016, 01:04:05 am »

http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,34.0.html

aye this was the thread I was reading, seemingly changed in 2001 from 4000- 6000 despite nothing changing

- 5000 seems a good compromise - and easy to remember

darrsi · « **Reply #35 on:** 24 December 2016, 09:36:11 am »

Quote from: rw711 on 24 December 2016, 01:04:05 am

http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,34.0.html

aye this was the thread I was reading, seemingly changed in 2001 from 4000- 6000 despite nothing changing

- 5000 seems a good compromise - and easy to remember

Oil loses its lubricating qualities over time.
This will no doubt be affected by how the bike is ridden, heat, cold, etc.
My bikes mainly used to go to and from work, so i'm not exactly ripping the nuts out of it, which means me changing the oil every 4000 miles is probably not really necessary, but it certainly won't hurt the thing.

It's a bit like women and shoes, they don't really need them, they only have two feet and there's plenty of wear left in the ones they bought years ago, but it's not doing anyone any harm replacing them anyway.

daviee · « **Reply #36 on:** 24 December 2016, 10:05:12 am »

in my service book it is 4000 mile intervals for the oil change 99 boxeye

mogster · « **Reply #37 on:** 24 December 2016, 11:00:43 am »

hi peeps
i was led to consider that the fully synth is hard on the clutch but easy on the engine.
especialy at higher revs.
merryberry

darrsi · « **Reply #38 on:** 24 December 2016, 11:10:46 am »

Quote from: daviee on 24 December 2016, 10:05:12 am

in my service book it is 4000 mile intervals for the oil change 99 boxeye

That changed later on to 6000 miles.

darrsi · « **Reply #39 on:** 24 December 2016, 11:19:26 am »

Quote from: mogster on 24 December 2016, 11:00:43 am

hi peeps
i was led to consider that the fully synth is hard on the clutch but easy on the engine.
especialy at higher revs.
merryberry

Where's this info from, 'cos i haven't seen any such advice anywhere?

http://www.zxforums.com/forums/oil-lubrication/13675-clearing-up-myths-synthetic-oil-wet-clutches.html

mtread · « **Reply #40 on:** 24 December 2016, 12:26:54 pm »

It's a bit like women and shoes, they don't really need them, they only have two feet and there's plenty of wear left in the ones they bought years ago, but it's not doing anyone any harm replacing them anyway.

You mean replacing the women? I think quite a few of us have already done that :-)

Graham53 · « **Reply #41 on:** 24 December 2016, 08:37:21 pm »

Quote from: mtread on 24 December 2016, 12:26:54 pm

It's a bit like women and shoes, they don't really need them, they only have two feet and there's plenty of wear left in the ones they bought years ago, but it's not doing anyone any harm replacing them anyway.

You mean replacing the women? I think quite a few of us have already done that :-)

Sooo true

On the oil front I just took my thou in for service but it had had fully synth put in by the Triumph dealer I bought it from and Yamaha stealer told me Yamaha don't recommend fully synth on the 600 or 1000 and if they don't recommend it why use it , so I caved and told em to change the oil , they probably just mugged me off for a few extra £

mogster · « **Reply #42 on:** 24 December 2016, 10:39:09 pm »

i have tried both; fully is certainly smoother but didnt keep it in long either
feeling like a greenhorn now

nice to bounce this stuff around tho

darrsi · « **Reply #43 on:** 24 December 2016, 10:51:01 pm »

Quote from: mogster on 24 December 2016, 10:39:09 pm

i have tried both; fully is certainly smoother but didnt keep it in long either
feeling like a greenhorn now nice to bounce this stuff around tho

The gear changing certainly does feel smoother without a doubt, that's why i think i've noticed it so much.
As far as i'm concerned, as long as it's 10w/40 then i can't see any issues.

rw711 · « **Reply #44 on:** 25 December 2016, 01:49:15 am »

re-read the zzr thread and it actually said dont use CAR synthetic oil because of the wet clutch- bike synthetic oil should be ok

I used to top up my CX500 and Gt 550 with car type oil when they used it but always tried to get bike specific oil for changes - one of the GT's I had and the CX had a thirst for oil so it didnt do any harm - the Gt 750 and the other GT 550 I have had never used any oil, nor has my ZZR .

rw711 · « **Reply #45 on:** 25 December 2016, 02:13:25 am »

Quote from: mtread on 24 December 2016, 12:26:54 pm

It's a bit like women and shoes, they don't really need them, they only have two feet and there's plenty of wear left in the ones they bought years ago, but it's not doing anyone any harm replacing them anyway.

You mean replacing the women? I think quite a few of us have already done that :-)

lol I'm pretty lucky she only buys shoes when they fall apart and loves going on the pillion - has been known to say I started going out with him 'cos he had a motorbike (23 years and counting ago) - I think I got a 'keeper'

Happy Christmas folks

darrsi · « **Reply #46 on:** 25 December 2016, 09:04:45 am »

Quote from: rw711 on 25 December 2016, 01:49:15 am

re-read the zzr thread and it actually said dont use CAR synthetic oil because of the wet clutch- bike synthetic oil should be ok

I used to top up my CX500 and Gt 550 with car type oil when they used it but always tried to get bike specific oil for changes - one of the GT's I had and the CX had a thirst for oil so it didnt do any harm - the Gt 750 and the other GT 550 I have had never used any oil, nor has my ZZR .

After 29 years of biking i can only positively say i've only ever had one issue with a particular oil, and that was after using Castrol Magnatec.
The ad campaign at the time was pretty impressive, but after a weeks usage i just knew something wasn't quite right, and gear changing became a bit of a chore.
It was only then that i had a butchers at the container, and it really did blatantly say, albeit in small writing, "not suitable for motorcycles".
I would've known by now if there was any problems with fully synthetic oil in my bike, bearing in mind i am totally sensitive to the slightest noise change, squeak, heat change or anything whatsoever to be truthful.
All i know is, as previously mentioned by someone else, is that my gear changing is "silky smooth".
If "silky smooth" gear changing is classed as an issue then i'm perfectly happy to put up with this terrible situation. I can only imagine it being like filling your house with £50million of Lottery winning bank notes then complaining that you keep tripping over them, or Hugh Hefner tripping over nipples.

rw711 · « **Reply #47 on:** 28 December 2016, 11:19:07 pm »

Well with the help of my friend got to the bottom of where the leak was, the exhaust is now sorted too.

Its where that shiny clip is, there was no clip on it at all!

- so that was easy enough,

Checked coolant and re-topped up , coolant was clean and new looking
checked fuel filter and that is very clean and new looking

Exhaust has had old jubilee clipe removed, neatened up and proper clamp fitted.

Bike does actually generally looked well cared for, apart from the scratches and scrapes.
- The front tyre is border line, so gonna get a new one on the way.

tommyardin · « **Reply #48 on:** 29 December 2016, 02:20:47 am »

This is the stuff that I use, cant be beaten. Unlike Tesco eggs, they can be beaten.

tommyardin · « **Reply #49 on:** 29 December 2016, 02:49:00 am »

Not wishing to get that can of 'Chopped Worms' back out of the kitchen cupboard again.

Please see the photo below that I took from the Haynes Service and Repair Manual for the YFZ600R and FZS600 Fazer 96-03.

Is Haynes wrong on this score?
or
Is the confusion about oils going to continue?

I have to admit to using fully synthetic Shell Advanced Motorcycle 4T oil in my FZS Fazer 600 ever since I have had it, and it was recommended to me by my local motorcycle garage.
But, if its the wrong stuff I will certainly take counsel from those that know.