Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial

Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: Pal on 09 January 2019, 01:23:30 PM

Title: Oil pressure switch
Post by: Pal on 09 January 2019, 01:23:30 PM
Twice in the last two days, my oil light has come on, spookily in exactly the same place on my daily commute.
After around a mile, I come to a T junction, and while idling, the light comes on. Revving the engine doesn't kame it go out, and when I pull away and lean left and right it still satys on. Stopping, switching off the ignition and then back on makes it go out, but I'm thinking the switch might be on its' way out.

Bike has 62000 miles and yes the oil is topped up.
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: darrsi on 09 January 2019, 01:28:43 PM
How do you check your oil level?
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: Pal on 09 January 2019, 01:39:49 PM
Checked with the window, on centre stand on level ground, when cold.

Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: darrsi on 09 January 2019, 01:44:43 PM
Centre stand, level ground, but you need to start the engine and let it run for about a minute, then switch off and  it’ll settle in about 30 seconds, that’s your level.
Sounds like your oil is too low.
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: darrsi on 09 January 2019, 01:46:55 PM
The light is just for oil level, it’s not a pressure reading.
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: Fazerider on 09 January 2019, 01:53:10 PM
Rather than faffing about running the engine for a specific length of time and then letting it stand for a specific length of time, I prefer to just check it when cold... mine likes it filled to the top of the window, any less than that and it gives the dreaded red light.
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: darrsi on 09 January 2019, 01:56:32 PM
Rather than faffing about running the engine for a specific length of time and then letting it stand for a specific length of time, I prefer to just check it when cold... mine likes it filled to the top of the window, any less than that and it gives the dreaded red light.


I don’t even have that luxury any more. My window isn’t see through.
2.8 litres in with a new filter does me until the next change.
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: gerkin on 09 January 2019, 02:24:41 PM
Light can come on ,on hills if oil is not on highest mark
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: fazersharp on 09 January 2019, 06:10:06 PM
I have found the difference between it staying off and coming on is about the same amount as an egg cup.  :woot
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: daviee on 09 January 2019, 06:12:43 PM
as said its a level light not a pressure light if it comes on top it up slightly with an egg cup full of oil  :lol :lol
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: darrsi on 09 January 2019, 06:33:45 PM
I have found the difference between it staying off and coming on is about the same amount as an egg cup.  :woot


Sounds about right  :lol

Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: Pal on 10 January 2019, 01:19:18 PM
At some points in my ownership, the level has fallen so you couldn't see it in the window, no light came on.
This is midway between the two lines and the light comes on, strange.

Didn't come on today, perhaps it was too cold for the light to make an appearance.  :D

Next oil change I'll take the sender out and check it over, until then, a bit of insulating tape should sort out the distracting lamp.
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: darrsi on 10 January 2019, 01:24:07 PM
At some points in my ownership, the level has fallen so you couldn't see it in the window, no light came on.
This is midway between the two lines and the light comes on, strange.

Didn't come on today, perhaps it was too cold for the light to make an appearance.  :D

Next oil change I'll take the sender out and check it over, until then, a bit of insulating tape should sort out the distracting lamp.


Midway between the two lines with a cold engine switched off means not enough oil.
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: Pal on 11 January 2019, 01:12:27 PM
Midway between the two lines with a cold engine switched off means not enough oil.
Go on then, I'll bite.
Midway between the two lines that Yamaha cast into the casing is not correct?
Has anyone told Yamaha this?
Is there a recall to get replacement recalibrated casings?
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: darrsi on 11 January 2019, 01:18:18 PM
Midway between the two lines with a cold engine switched off means not enough oil.
Go on then, I'll bite.
Midway between the two lines that Yamaha cast into the casing is not correct?
Has anyone told Yamaha this?
Is there a recall to get replacement recalibrated casings?


Read the manual, and it will tell you run the engine before checking the level, as i said earlier.
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: darrsi on 11 January 2019, 01:25:56 PM
You asked for help, and i gave you the answer!

Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: fazersharp on 11 January 2019, 01:38:27 PM
I think the reason is this. If the engine is cold - that means that all the oil that can flow back down has done so. After a short warm up and a couple of mins wait - there is still oil around all the parts that has yet to drip back down into the sump window area. I does seem a bit rubbish to have to read the level via this procedure as it just says a few mins after warm up but the longer you warm it the hotter the oil which will more readily/ quickly drip back down to the window area then the longer you leave it the more oil will drip down so there are too many variables. I would be much better if the procedure was from cold - cutting out all those variables.This would mean that the window would have to be higher as when cold all the oil that will do has dripped down and is near or above the top. I wonder if the read from warm procedure is just because they could not fit a window higher. 
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: Jules-C on 11 January 2019, 01:52:01 PM
The reason is so you don't need to wait an hour after running the engine to check the oil level. 
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: mtread on 11 January 2019, 03:29:03 PM
How about this. If it's stone cold the oil level should be at or near the top mark. If it's stopped + a few minutes it should be somewhere between top and bottom marks  :D
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: darrsi on 11 January 2019, 05:02:27 PM
The reason is so you don't need to wait an hour after running the engine to check the oil level.


That sounds like the most logical reason to me.
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: darrsi on 11 January 2019, 05:07:42 PM
I think the reason is this. If the engine is cold - that means that all the oil that can flow back down has done so. After a short warm up and a couple of mins wait - there is still oil around all the parts that has yet to drip back down into the sump window area. I does seem a bit rubbish to have to read the level via this procedure as it just says a few mins after warm up but the longer you warm it the hotter the oil which will more readily/ quickly drip back down to the window area then the longer you leave it the more oil will drip down so there are too many variables. I would be much better if the procedure was from cold - cutting out all those variables.This would mean that the window would have to be higher as when cold all the oil that will do has dripped down and is near or above the top. I wonder if the read from warm procedure is just because they could not fit a window higher.


Maybe a slightly bigger viewing window would cater for everyone.
I do mine from the bottle now anyway, no window for me, and as long as there's no leaks then i don't need to do anything until i change it again, which i personally prefer to do every 4000 miles, even though it's recommended at every 6000 miles. Works for me, and the bike doesn't complain.  :lol
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: fazersharp on 11 January 2019, 05:52:33 PM
The reason is so you don't need to wait an hour after running the engine to check the oil level.


That sounds like the most logical reason to me.
The most logical way - if the window would allow is for it to be from cold which would be BEFORE you rode it or started it. Rather than start it - warm it - stop it- wait a few mins - look at it - start it and ride.
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: Dynspud on 11 January 2019, 06:47:49 PM
What about a dipstick?
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: darrsi on 11 January 2019, 07:08:21 PM
The reason is so you don't need to wait an hour after running the engine to check the oil level.


That sounds like the most logical reason to me.
The most logical way - if the window would allow is for it to be from cold which would be BEFORE you rode it or started it. Rather than start it - warm it - stop it- wait a few mins - look at it - start it and ride.


As i said, a bigger, or better still maybe an upright rectangular window similar to what you get on the back of oil containers, rather than round, so you can see all levels from cold, or when warm would make far more sense.
Once you know how much oil you have in there, after a change for example, then you can see both cold or warm levels then know if it’s right or wrong at a glance.
I must say though that the window on these sumps are pretty shite.......especially my one.  :lol
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: His Dudeness on 11 January 2019, 07:58:32 PM
The manual has to give a method that's accurate and covers all scenarios. They can't say check it from cold because a cold bike that was park two hours ago is going to show a different level to a cold bike that was parked a year ago even if they have the same amount of oil in them.   The only way to cover all scenarios is to say start it up, turn it off, let it settle and then check it. They can't even give exact times to start it up because the bike could be parked in -10 weather or it could be in 40 degree weather so the viscosity of the oil would be totally different. Saying start it for two minutes and turn it off for a minute then check wouldn't work. The way they say to do it is the only way that covers all scenarios which is what the manual has to do.
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: limax2 on 11 January 2019, 09:42:49 PM
No body has mentioned that when the oil is warm it will have expanded and therefore higher in the window than when cold.
Must admit I've never noticed the difference and anyway my light has never come on so I don't get concerned about it.
I still change the oil at approx 4,000 miles and check the level now and again, but have never had to top it up between oil changes. Bike now done about 55k.
Doesn't take much oil from first appearing in the window to going beyond the top, so a bit of care required at the final stages of filling.[size=78%]  [/size]
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: BBROWN1664 on 11 January 2019, 10:04:32 PM
No body has mentioned that when the oil is warm it will have expanded and therefore higher in the window than when cold.
Must admit I've never noticed the difference and anyway my light has never come on so I don't get concerned about it.
I still change the oil at approx 4,000 miles and check the level now and again, but have never had to top it up between oil changes. Bike now done about 55k.
Doesn't take much oil from first appearing in the window to going beyond the top, so a bit of care required at the final stages of filling.[size=78%]  [/size]

Expansion will be minimal. So ignore it.
Oil will be up around the top of the engine when warm rather than all in the sump. This is why it is LOWER in the window when warm and why the manual says to check it when WARM
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: fazersharp on 11 January 2019, 10:34:52 PM
Doesn't take much oil from first appearing in the window to going beyond the top, so a bit of care required at the final stages of filling.[size=78%]  [/size]
EGG CUP !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: fazersharp on 11 January 2019, 10:38:22 PM
The manual has to give a method that's accurate and covers all scenarios. They can't say check it from cold because a cold bike that was park two hours ago is going to show a different level to a cold bike that was parked a year ago even if they have the same amount of oil in them.   The only way to cover all scenarios is to say start it up, turn it off, let it settle and then check it. They can't even give exact times to start it up because the bike could be parked in -10 weather or it could be in 40 degree weather so the viscosity of the oil would be totally different. Saying start it for two minutes and turn it off for a minute then check wouldn't work. The way they say to do it is the only way that covers all scenarios which is what the manual has to do.
That (unfortunately) makes far too much sense. But I think may be the answer.How come there not so much angst among car owners.     
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: His Dudeness on 11 January 2019, 11:26:30 PM
The manual has to give a method that's accurate and covers all scenarios. They can't say check it from cold because a cold bike that was park two hours ago is going to show a different level to a cold bike that was parked a year ago even if they have the same amount of oil in them.   The only way to cover all scenarios is to say start it up, turn it off, let it settle and then check it. They can't even give exact times to start it up because the bike could be parked in -10 weather or it could be in 40 degree weather so the viscosity of the oil would be totally different. Saying start it for two minutes and turn it off for a minute then check wouldn't work. The way they say to do it is the only way that covers all scenarios which is what the manual has to do.
That (unfortunately) makes far too much sense. But I think may be the answer.How come there not so much angst among car owners.   
Probably because cars rubbish and only good for carrying the shopping :lol I think on some new cars you can't even check the oil level. The engine is sealed and you have to take it to a dealer to do an oil change....junk!
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: darrsi on 12 January 2019, 04:36:30 AM
The manual has to give a method that's accurate and covers all scenarios. They can't say check it from cold because a cold bike that was park two hours ago is going to show a different level to a cold bike that was parked a year ago even if they have the same amount of oil in them.   The only way to cover all scenarios is to say start it up, turn it off, let it settle and then check it. They can't even give exact times to start it up because the bike could be parked in -10 weather or it could be in 40 degree weather so the viscosity of the oil would be totally different. Saying start it for two minutes and turn it off for a minute then check wouldn't work. The way they say to do it is the only way that covers all scenarios which is what the manual has to do.
That (unfortunately) makes far too much sense. But I think may be the answer.How come there not so much angst among car owners.   


Because they're dipsticks  :lol
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: darrsi on 12 January 2019, 09:14:47 AM
No body has mentioned that when the oil is warm it will have expanded and therefore higher in the window than when cold.
Must admit I've never noticed the difference and anyway my light has never come on so I don't get concerned about it.
I still change the oil at approx 4,000 miles and check the level now and again, but have never had to top it up between oil changes. Bike now done about 55k.
Doesn't take much oil from first appearing in the window to going beyond the top, so a bit of care required at the final stages of filling.[size=78%]  [/size]

Expansion will be minimal. So ignore it.
Oil will be up around the top of the engine when warm rather than all in the sump. This is why it is LOWER in the window when warm and why the manual says to check it when WARM


I was gonna say the same, the whole point of oil is to lubricate under extreme conditions so if it changed its quality or texture a lot under different temperatures then it would become kind of unreliable.
You'll always get a cold engine and a hot engine but it has to be designed to withstand all of this, hence the reason it's graded between temperature lowers/uppers.
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: YamFazFan on 12 January 2019, 11:56:23 AM
What about a dipstick?

Unrelated to the thread, but I owned a Citroen car several years ago that had a wire dipstick, but with a plastic tip on the end with the level lines on it.
They were well known for the tip snapping off way down in the dipstick tube as it negotiated it's way around a bend in the tube.
It was due to the constant heating/cooling weakening it. You had to buy a new dipstick, then as you inserted it the broken bit got pushed down into the sump. The oil strainer prevented it going anywhere or doing any harm. Daft though eh :rolleyes
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: fazersharp on 12 January 2019, 12:20:26 PM
What about a dipstick?

Unrelated to the thread, but I owned a Citroen car several years ago that had a wire dipstick, but with a plastic tip on the end with the level lines on it.
They were well known for the tip snapping off way down in the dipstick tube as it negotiated it's way around a bend in the tube.
It was due to the constant heating/cooling weakening it. You had to buy a new dipstick, then as you inserted it the broken bit got pushed down into the sump. The oil strainer prevented it going anywhere or doing any harm. Daft though eh :rolleyes
Yep - I had that car. And I would push dipstick down inch by inch and as I did I would let it rotate as it wanted to. I think the way down there was a contorted route that did not help the plastic bit on the end. 
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: darrsi on 12 January 2019, 01:01:28 PM
What about a dipstick?

Unrelated to the thread, but I owned a Citroen car several years ago that had a wire dipstick, but with a plastic tip on the end with the level lines on it.
They were well known for the tip snapping off way down in the dipstick tube as it negotiated it's way around a bend in the tube.
It was due to the constant heating/cooling weakening it. You had to buy a new dipstick, then as you inserted it the broken bit got pushed down into the sump. The oil strainer prevented it going anywhere or doing any harm. Daft though eh :rolleyes
Yep - I had that car. And I would push dipstick down inch by inch and as I did I would let it rotate as it wanted to. I think the way down there was a contorted route that did not help the plastic bit on the end.


I bet you sold it to him?  :lol
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: YamFazFan on 12 January 2019, 01:31:49 PM
What about a dipstick?

Unrelated to the thread, but I owned a Citroen car several years ago that had a wire dipstick, but with a plastic tip on the end with the level lines on it.
They were well known for the tip snapping off way down in the dipstick tube as it negotiated it's way around a bend in the tube.
It was due to the constant heating/cooling weakening it. You had to buy a new dipstick, then as you inserted it the broken bit got pushed down into the sump. The oil strainer prevented it going anywhere or doing any harm. Daft though eh :rolleyes
Yep - I had that car. And I would push dipstick down inch by inch and as I did I would let it rotate as it wanted to. I think the way down there was a contorted route that did not help the plastic bit on the end.


I bet you sold it to him?  :lol
:rollin :rollin
If I remember correctly you could only get about a pint of oil in the sump at oil change because it was stuffed full of dipstick ends ;)
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: BBROWN1664 on 12 January 2019, 05:18:07 PM

Probably because cars rubbish and only good for carrying the shopping :lol I think on some new cars you can't even check the oil level. The engine is sealed and you have to take it to a dealer to do an oil change....junk!


On my Audi, there is no dipstick, you have to check the level via the computer screen inside the car.
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: robbo on 12 January 2019, 08:18:00 PM
My '94 Speed Triple has a dipstick. No doubt far more expensive to produce that feature, than drilling a hole through a crankcase and pressing a glass bung in the hole.
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: limax2 on 12 January 2019, 08:35:16 PM
No body has mentioned that when the oil is warm it will have expanded and therefore higher in the window than when cold.
Must admit I've never noticed the difference and anyway my light has never come on so I don't get concerned about it.
I still change the oil at approx 4,000 miles and check the level now and again, but have never had to top it up between oil changes. Bike now done about 55k.
Doesn't take much oil from first appearing in the window to going beyond the top, so a bit of care required at the final stages of filling.[size=78%]  [/size]

Expansion will be minimal. So ignore it.
Oil will be up around the top of the engine when warm rather than all in the sump. This is why it is LOWER in the window when warm and why the manual says to check it when WARM


The reason to wait a few minutes after warming up is so that most of that oil drains back into the sump.
Just for interest the increase in volume is :-
Volumetric expansion coefficient of engine oil is 0.00070 per deg C
Oil capacity say 2.7ltrs = 2,700c.c.
Lets say temperature difference from cold to warm is 40 deg C
Change in oil volume = 0.00070 x 2700 x 40 = 75.6c.c.
To use a previous measuring scale that’s about three normal egg cups worth.
I’ve no idea what that difference in volume represents in terms of height in the site glass and never bothered about it. Maybe I’ll have to check the oil level when cold and then again when warm after standing a few minutes and see if my calculation theory is total garbidge.  ;)
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: darrsi on 12 January 2019, 08:39:49 PM
No body has mentioned that when the oil is warm it will have expanded and therefore higher in the window than when cold.
Must admit I've never noticed the difference and anyway my light has never come on so I don't get concerned about it.
I still change the oil at approx 4,000 miles and check the level now and again, but have never had to top it up between oil changes. Bike now done about 55k.
Doesn't take much oil from first appearing in the window to going beyond the top, so a bit of care required at the final stages of filling.[size=78%]  [/size]

Expansion will be minimal. So ignore it.
Oil will be up around the top of the engine when warm rather than all in the sump. This is why it is LOWER in the window when warm and why the manual says to check it when WARM


The reason to wait a few minutes after warming up is so that most of that oil drains back into the sump.
Just for interest the increase in volume is :-
Volumetric expansion coefficient of engine oil is 0.00070 per deg C
Oil capacity say 2.7ltrs = 2,700c.c.
Lets say temperature difference from cold to warm is 40 deg C
Change in oil volume = 0.00070 x 2700 x 40 = 75.6c.c.
To use a previous measuring scale that’s about three normal egg cups worth.
I’ve no idea what that difference in volume represents in terms of height in the site glass and never bothered about it. Maybe I’ll have to check the oil level when cold and then again when warm after standing a few minutes and see if my calculation theory is total garbidge.  ;)


Been a while for my bike now but from memory when my bike was cold the oil was above the window.
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: fazersharp on 12 January 2019, 09:08:38 PM
No body has mentioned that when the oil is warm it will have expanded and therefore higher in the window than when cold.
Must admit I've never noticed the difference and anyway my light has never come on so I don't get concerned about it.
I still change the oil at approx 4,000 miles and check the level now and again, but have never had to top it up between oil changes. Bike now done about 55k.
Doesn't take much oil from first appearing in the window to going beyond the top, so a bit of care required at the final stages of filling.[size=78%]  [/size]

Expansion will be minimal. So ignore it.
Oil will be up around the top of the engine when warm rather than all in the sump. This is why it is LOWER in the window when warm and why the manual says to check it when WARM


The reason to wait a few minutes after warming up is so that most of that oil drains back into the sump.
Just for interest the increase in volume is :-
Volumetric expansion coefficient of engine oil is 0.00070 per deg C
Oil capacity say 2.7ltrs = 2,700c.c.
Lets say temperature difference from cold to warm is 40 deg C
Change in oil volume = 0.00070 x 2700 x 40 = 75.6c.c.
To use a previous measuring scale that’s about three normal egg cups worth.
I’ve no idea what that difference in volume represents in terms of height in the site glass and never bothered about it. Maybe I’ll have to check the oil level when cold and then again when warm after standing a few minutes and see if my calculation theory is total garbidge.  ;)


Been a while for my bike now but from memory when my bike was cold the oil was above the window.
Yes it is or very near the top.
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: YamFazFan on 12 January 2019, 09:37:10 PM

I've only ever checked my Fazer oil level before start up ie engine stone cold ( I didn't know all this info about turning off and waiting a couple of mins).


It's always pretty much at the top of the sight glass.
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: tommyardin on 12 January 2019, 10:40:31 PM
When doing an oil change my engine is still hot after draining old oil out, new filter on, new fresh oil up to the upper mark on the engine, fire it up, filter fills, shut off after a minute, leave bike 5 mins and it usually takes about 75 cc to to get it back up to upper mark. As others have said I never have to put oil in the engine between changes (often only 1500 miles) but oil that comes out of the Fazer goes in my mowers and Honda C90 also is it for topping up my diesel Combo van.
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: Fazerider on 12 January 2019, 11:49:03 PM
The reason to wait a few minutes after warming up is so that most of that oil drains back into the sump.
Just for interest the increase in volume is :-
Volumetric expansion coefficient of engine oil is 0.00070 per deg C
Oil capacity say 2.7ltrs = 2,700c.c.
Lets say temperature difference from cold to warm is 40 deg C
Change in oil volume = 0.00070 x 2700 x 40 = 75.6c.c.
To use a previous measuring scale that’s about three normal egg cups worth.
I’ve no idea what that difference in volume represents in terms of height in the site glass and never bothered about it. Maybe I’ll have to check the oil level when cold and then again when warm after standing a few minutes and see if my calculation theory is total garbidge.  ;)
The calculation sounds ok, but it’s only half the story as the aluminium alloy cases expand with heat too... so the sump gets bigger. :lol
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: darrsi on 12 January 2019, 11:57:52 PM
My blind 2.8 litres, then forgetting about it for 4000 miles as long as there isn't any leaks is starting to sound like the way forward  :lol
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: Pal on 16 January 2019, 01:33:10 PM
So from what others are saying, the egg cup left in the galleries after several minutes after running the bike up to temp, is offset by the egg cup of expansion of the oil. When cold the egg cup that was in the galleries is now in the sump, and the egg cup due to heat expansion is no longer relevant. ergo, the level will be the same in both hot and cold scenarios.

With regards to my own personal experience, the light has come on, on only one of the ten journeys I have made since my original post, if the oil level was dangerously low as has been suggested, it was low for all ten journeys, but only lit the lamp once. In the interest of covering all the bases, I checked the oil as per the manual, and marked a line after seven minutes, and then checked it again after two hours, and there was no difference whatsoever in the level. I then warmed the bike up and topped up to the top line. On four journeys since, the light has come on twice.



Back to my original question, before I was accused of being an idiot, has anybody else had trouble with their oil light?

A new switch is £86, so I'll look for a S/H one, unless I can fix the old one.
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: fazersharp on 16 January 2019, 01:44:56 PM
So from what others are saying, the egg cup left in the galleries after several minutes after running the bike up to temp, is offset by the egg cup of expansion of the oil. When cold the egg cup that was in the galleries is now in the sump, and the egg cup due to heat expansion is no longer relevant. ergo, the level will be the same in both hot and cold scenarios.

With regards to my own personal experience, the light has come on, on only one of the ten journeys I have made since my original post, if the oil level was dangerously low as has been suggested, it was low for all ten journeys, but only lit the lamp once. In the interest of covering all the bases, I checked the oil as per the manual, and marked a line after seven minutes, and then checked it again after two hours, and there was no difference whatsoever in the level. I then warmed the bike up and topped up to the top line. On four journeys since, the light has come on twice.



Back to my original question, before I was accused of being an idiot, has anybody else had trouble with their oil light?

A new switch is £86, so I'll look for a S/H one, unless I can fix the old one.

I don't think anyone has called you an Idiot. Do not but a new switch - you do not need one, I can confidently suggest that there is nothing wrong with your switch .
Yes I too have had the same issue with a flick on of the light after accelerating (with fun) from exiting roundabout. I looked at the level and it looked all ok so I put in about an egg cup full more oil and since then have not seen the light switch on. 
I had replaced the oil and filled it up as I have always done but this time it was a cheaper oil - same spec but I put the oil on light down to to oil being thinner and more readerly "sloshed" to the back and away from the switch on hard acceleration. 
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: YamFazFan on 17 January 2019, 09:33:36 AM

Why do people ask questions then 'take offence' at being told the answers?.


Are people supposed to have the talent of a mind reader to know what knowledge you already have or not. Talk about paranoid :rolleyes
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: Pal on 17 January 2019, 01:29:52 PM
Yes I too have had the same issue with a flick on of the light after accelerating (with fun) from exiting roundabout. I looked at the level and it looked all ok so I put in about an egg cup full more oil and since then have not seen the light switch on. 
As I said in my original post, this all happened at tickover at a junction. No 'spirted' riding, that came later. It was also more than a flick, it stayed on constantly for minutes until I stopped and turned everything off and back on.

Didn't come on today, I think it was scared of the snow.
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: darrsi on 17 January 2019, 01:52:03 PM
Yes I too have had the same issue with a flick on of the light after accelerating (with fun) from exiting roundabout. I looked at the level and it looked all ok so I put in about an egg cup full more oil and since then have not seen the light switch on. 
As I said in my original post, this all happened at tickover at a junction. No 'spirted' riding, that came later. It was also more than a flick, it stayed on constantly for minutes until I stopped and turned everything off and back on.

Didn't come on today, I think it was scared of the snow.


Exactly what oil do you use, when was it last changed, and how often do you change it?
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: His Dudeness on 17 January 2019, 10:24:26 PM
you could check the wiring for a short to ground. if the wire going to the level sensor is rubbed through and touching the engine or frame the light would come on
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: Pal on 18 January 2019, 01:17:58 PM
Exactly what oil do you use, when was it last changed, and how often do you change it?
I use semi synthetic 10w/40 that meets API service SE, SF, SG type or higher, changed every 6000 miles.

Last change was at 58000 miles, which was just over 4000 miles ago
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: Pal on 18 January 2019, 01:19:23 PM
you could check the wiring for a short to ground. if the wire going to the level sensor is rubbed through and touching the engine or frame the light would come on
I had quick look at the wiring but will take a better look and take the switch out and test it, at the next oil change.
Light didn't come on today.
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: darrsi on 18 January 2019, 06:59:06 PM
Exactly what oil do you use, when was it last changed, and how often do you change it?
I use semi synthetic 10w/40 that meets API service SE, SF, SG type or higher, changed every 6000 miles.

Last change was at 58000 miles, which was just over 4000 miles ago


'Should' be okay, it's been known before to get a build up of sludge with oil that's a bit past its time causing the light to either come on or flicker, but you're doing things right, it was just a thought that was all.
Always best to change oil when it's warm to help avoid this scenario though.
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: Pal on 19 January 2019, 10:27:41 AM
'Should' be okay, it's been known before to get a build up of sludge with oil that's a bit past its time causing the light to either come on or flicker, but you're doing things right, it was just a thought that was all.
Always best to change oil when it's warm to help avoid this scenario though.
I must admit to having a bit of a laugh with you, and copied the spec verbatim out of the handbook. I thought you were going to say about using bike specific or even fully syn in the Fazer. We all know oil debates can run to several pages on forums.
I used to use Comma car oil semi syn 10W40 in all my bikes. exceeds the spec given in the handbook.
I also used to do work on other peoples bikes, who (being unenlightened or loaded) wanted JASO MA2 oil, I don't have time to do extra work now, with family and work commitments, so having a couple of barrels left over from that, it's what I use in the Fazer. When it's gone, it'll be back to Comma.
My ZRX1100 is tuned to the bollox and has run all it's life on Comma car oil. Puts out over 160 BHP at the rear wheel.
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: darrsi on 19 January 2019, 12:06:12 PM
'Should' be okay, it's been known before to get a build up of sludge with oil that's a bit past its time causing the light to either come on or flicker, but you're doing things right, it was just a thought that was all.
Always best to change oil when it's warm to help avoid this scenario though.
I must admit to having a bit of a laugh with you, and copied the spec verbatim out of the handbook. I thought you were going to say about using bike specific or even fully syn in the Fazer. We all know oil debates can run to several pages on forums.
I used to use Comma car oil semi syn 10W40 in all my bikes. exceeds the spec given in the handbook.
I also used to do work on other peoples bikes, who (being unenlightened or loaded) wanted JASO MA2 oil, I don't have time to do extra work now, with family and work commitments, so having a couple of barrels left over from that, it's what I use in the Fazer. When it's gone, it'll be back to Comma.
My ZRX1100 is tuned to the bollox and has run all it's life on Comma car oil. Puts out over 160 BHP at the rear wheel.

Not entirely sure where this post is going to be honest?
If you're that clued up then i'd have thought you'd have at least known how to check your oil level properly?


And when questions are answered on here you have to remember there are loads of other people reading it now, or years ahead in the future, because they may have a similar problem as you're having, which is why the responses are better off being clear and detailed.


As for your heavily tuned up ZRX1100, do you not think it could possibly be a tad more tuned up if you did use motorbike oil in it? Just a thought!
I used car oil in one of my previous bikes and it simply didn't like it and made it difficult to change gear, but once i replaced it a few days later everything was back to normal, so for me it's a case of "once bitten" and all that, rather than going by what other people say.

Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: Pal on 21 January 2019, 01:23:52 PM
If you're that clued up then i'd have thought you'd have at least known how to check your oil level properly?
It's the difference between knowing what is written in the handbook, and WHY it is written that way in the handbook.
My oil's fine, checked the way I did.
BTW light came on again today.
My switch is buggered.
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: fazersharp on 21 January 2019, 03:10:07 PM
If you're that clued up then i'd have thought you'd have at least known how to check your oil level properly?
It's the difference between knowing what is written in the handbook, and WHY it is written that way in the handbook.
My oil's fine, checked the way I did.
BTW light came on again today.
My switch is buggered.
Take the bulb out - problem solved.
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: His Dudeness on 21 January 2019, 07:31:38 PM
It might not be buggered it might just need to be cleaned. The float could be sticking or the wire going to the switch or a pin in a connector could be grounding.

On a side note there's some nice pictures of a R6 oil level gauge. The ring terminal is bolted to the engine so that is permanent ground. The float moves up and down on a shaft, when the float gets low enough it connects the ring terminal and the wire so the wire is grounded and your light comes on

(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/uaYAAOSwHMJYNjIv/s-l1600.jpg)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/dm8AAOSw44BYNjIh/s-l1600.jpg)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/r2YAAOSwEzxYNjIz/s-l1600.jpg)
There's the fazer one
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/fU8AAOSw~X1bdSlh/s-l1600.jpg)
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: Pal on 22 January 2019, 12:06:48 AM
It might not be buggered it might just need to be cleaned. The float could be sticking or the wire going to the switch or a pin in a connector could be grounding.

On a side note there's some nice pictures of a R6 oil level gauge. The ring terminal is bolted to the engine so that is permanent ground. The float moves up and down on a shaft, when the float gets low enough it connects the ring terminal and the wire so the wire is grounded and your light comes on
Thanks mate, exactly the kind of answer I was hoping for.
Will check out at next oil change, which will be in about three weeks, as long as the snow holds off..
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: Paul on 26 January 2019, 08:37:34 PM
Don't worry.


My Fazer has now clocked 97000 and I've ridden it with the 'oil light on' many times.....  it's just a level switch.... as long as the oil pump is picking up oil, you'll be fine.  The Fazer engine is pretty much unburstable... it's everything else that ultimately wears out.... not least the rider.
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: His Dudeness on 13 March 2019, 10:42:02 PM
It might not be buggered it might just need to be cleaned. The float could be sticking or the wire going to the switch or a pin in a connector could be grounding.

On a side note there's some nice pictures of a R6 oil level gauge. The ring terminal is bolted to the engine so that is permanent ground. The float moves up and down on a shaft, when the float gets low enough it connects the ring terminal and the wire so the wire is grounded and your light comes on

(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/uaYAAOSwHMJYNjIv/s-l1600.jpg)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/dm8AAOSw44BYNjIh/s-l1600.jpg)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/r2YAAOSwEzxYNjIz/s-l1600.jpg)
There's the fazer one
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/fU8AAOSw~X1bdSlh/s-l1600.jpg)

Just to add to that in case any one finds this doing a search. The float has a magnet in it. The shaft that the float moves up and down on has a reed switch in it like in the picture.


(https://media.rs-online.com/t_large/F2293658-01.jpg)

When the float drops the magnet pulls the reed switch closed and that creates the path to ground for the oil light.
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: fazersharp on 14 March 2019, 11:26:03 AM
Interesting - the reed switch, I have seen them snap in alarm systems from constant use (entry door) but wouldn't of mattered as in the bike it is normally open with full oil.
Title: Re: Oil pressure switch
Post by: His Dudeness on 14 March 2019, 06:34:29 PM
Yeah normally open so the reed switch does nothing until the float drops so the reed switch is unlikely to fail due to wear. The one I looked at, the reed switch was working fine but the small circuit board that the reed switch is soldered onto was corroded due to water ingress and the track in the circuit board was completely gone so the circuit was always open even when the reed switch was closed. You'd never know that the circuit had failed open unless you checked if the oil light had come on during an oil change. The check that happens when you press the starter switch just shows that the bulb is working not that the oil level switch is working because when you press the starter switch it grounds the bulb through the starting cut off relay not through the oil level switch. I bet there are loads of corroded oil level switches but it goes unnoticed.