Date: 19-10-20  Time: 16:31 PM

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Messages - Fazerider

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51
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Removing engine
« on: 01 September 2019, 03:37:34 PM »
Yes, the right as when sat on it (facing forwards).  :lol

52
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Removing engine
« on: 01 September 2019, 02:48:34 PM »
It comes out on the right hand side.

53
General / Re: man down...
« on: 01 September 2019, 08:55:31 AM »

Convictions are based on evidence of the crime, not on the basis that the accused had been convicted of something similar in the past. As mtread says, the sentence will take into account previous misdemeanours.
I've pm'd a mod, hopefully they'll will remove content here that could be used by the defence to claim prejudice.

55
General / Re: man down...
« on: 26 August 2019, 09:50:27 AM »

That’s grim. Hope Dynspud makes a full and quick recovery. And the kid too.
Have I left anyone out? Nah.

56
For Sale & Wanted / Re: for sale , honda cg 125 , 2004
« on: 23 August 2019, 10:19:05 PM »

For the true CG125 experience you should chuck out all the 12v electrics and run on 6v… with a feeble 25W tungsten bulb in the headlight. As for the disc brake! WTF?
Actually, I don’t know how I survived ownership. Half the riding I did was at night…  and ! couldn’t have stopped quickly even if I had been able to see more than 20ft ahead. Still, I suppose it was good training for the Fazer’s headlight.
GLWTS  :thumbup

57
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Rear wheel alignment
« on: 06 August 2019, 11:46:31 AM »

I’ve never had difficulty doing it by eye on any of my bikes.
Sight down the edges of the front tyre and adjust the steering until you see equal widths of rear tyre.
Gently prop a couple of straight lengths of 2 x 4 against either side of the front and recheck it’s still pointing at the centre of the rear tyre.
Now sight along the two sides of the rear, if it’s out of alignment it’ll be very obvious.
If you need to adjust do so and repeat the lining-up procedure each time. When it’s right just make a note of how far to offset the rear wheel from the factory alignment markings and you shouldn’t need to bother again.

58
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Infrequent cutting out and magical recovery
« on: 30 July 2019, 08:58:10 PM »

Intermittent fuel starvation seems unlikely… running dry is usually preceded by a lot of hesitation. This sounds much more like lack of sparks.
I’d check the wiring harness and connectors for corrosion, shorts where cables can rub on the frame etc and broken wires.

59
FZS600 Fazer / Re: idle adjust screw at end of turning
« on: 15 July 2019, 12:43:37 PM »
this is what i did cleaned carbs out check pilot settings most where out some by 2 turns seated them and then turn out two turns got carbs back on bike set tps sensor.... then put on my gauges and balanced 1/2 then 3/4 then between 1/2 and 3/4 got them all level when blipping throttle.... but i forgot to set idle after wards so today i warm her up to running temp and adjust the idle screw on thing was it wouldnt turn any further i got it to 1000 -1100 rpm but it will not turn any further up it will only drop it down loads till it stalls


Then something is wrong mate, you usually have to turn the main idle screw down not up, the butterfly's aren't open enough, which means they're not pulling enough Hg.  The 2 turns out should give you the correct air setting, from there you have to set the Hg it MUST be between 230 - 250mmHg on every carb before they're balanced the number is very important.  Then the fun starts you've got to get 1/2 balanced still pulling the Hg then 3/4 and then balance 1/2 & 3/4 still pulling the the Hg figure if you can't get them all in balance pulling the Hg figure and idling at the correct speed there's something wrong.   
I'm a bit confused by this - if I adjust the vacuum to 230-250mmHg on each carb using the pilot screws, what is left to adjust using the balance screws?

Me too.
Adjusting the pilot makes the mixture richer or leaner at very low throttle openings. I always thought the correct way to judge the setting is with a gas analysis probe in the downpipe for each cylinder (using the little port on the OE headers).
With no gas analysis equipment and aftermarket exhaust system, I’ve always set the pilot by counting turns.

60
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Rear brake clunk/hot
« on: 10 July 2019, 09:29:46 PM »

Thanks for advice Foccers...


I don't know of the seals in the rear master cylinder have ever been changed...is it a difficult job....??
It's not too hard, bleeding all the air out afterwards can be a PITA because of the U-bend path the fluid has to take, but you can loosen the banjo at the top of the master cylinder and let the bubbles out that way.

61
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Rear brake clunk/hot
« on: 10 July 2019, 03:22:32 PM »
Did the mechanic just change the caliper seals or those in the master cylinder as well?
I fear there are a lot of Fazers still being ridden with original rubber in the braking system... Yamaha say the seals should be changed every 4 years.

62
General / Re: radar speed sign?
« on: 09 July 2019, 06:15:38 PM »

The ones that just flash the speed limit at you always seem to be on a hair trigger and light up even if you’re a few mph below.
The ones that actually give you a reading are pretty accurate, the speedo in most vehicles is set  to err on the side of caution. Since the speedometer is based on the rate of wheel revolutions the accuracy will get worse as the tyres wear. :)

63
FZS600 Fazer / Re: I think its buggered--any thoughts ?
« on: 07 July 2019, 09:33:17 AM »

If it’s an FZS600 (your profile says FZ6) then access is OK for changing the selector drum and forks with the engine in-situ.
However, the usual 2nd gear problem only affects that gear… the bike would run normally in neutral, first and, if you can persuade the selector past 2nd, the higher gears too. If yours is making a nasty racket as soon as the clutch is released then there is something else wrong. Hopefully it’s the clutch as that should be fixable, otherwise a replacement engine is the easier solution... replacing broken cogs in the box is a lot of work.

64
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Good 'ole 4th july
« on: 04 July 2019, 08:06:52 AM »
Got rid of my US citizenship last year… feels very good to be independent from that pariah nation.

65
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Fork breather?
« on: 01 July 2019, 03:32:47 PM »

No there is no breather hole.
The pressure variation in the fork with temperature is trivial compared to that due to compression of the suspension anyway.
What you have there is a leaky fork seal.

66
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Clutch not working
« on: 24 June 2019, 09:37:28 AM »
Pop out the rubber bung on the sprocket cover and check the adjuster and locknut haven’t loosened off.
If it’s not set correctly there then you could reach the endstop before the pushrod is able to operate the clutch, though you’d also be running out of adjustment at the handlebar.

67
General / Re: So What're You Listening To Today?
« on: 07 June 2019, 09:45:31 AM »
Half Man Half Biscuit
  :)

68
I use phosphoric acid and a toothbrush rather than abrasives to get rid of rust spots on the pistons, but those do look as if you can get a bit more use out of them.

69
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Pilot screw
« on: 28 May 2019, 05:34:34 PM »

I see you’d checked the plugs were all sparking, but they can behave differently when out.
Have the plug caps ever been changed? If they’re the originals (black right angle) then they’re renowned for causing misfires, if they're straight red ones they've been changed for NGK SD05F type which are more dependable.
It's also worth trimming the lead where it screws into the plug cap, the wire core can corrode… lopping 8mm or so off the end gives the screw something conductive again.

70
General / Re: Focer Font of knowledge speaker power RMS and stuff
« on: 28 May 2019, 02:03:57 PM »

The matching of power ratings between amp and speakers is not a precise science.
Loudspeaker distortion is not as unpleasant as amplifier clipping so I prefer to err on the side of having a beefier amp (within reason). Any modern amp will have protection circuitry that cuts the output in the event of an internal fault, so the chances of the speakers bursting into flames is not worth worrying about.
Ok so I can have a more powerful amp than speakers but what about if the speakers are more powerful than the amp - would that damage the amp. I any case the equipment is either 5 10 or 20 W
No, you won’t damage the amplifier by driving speakers rated for a higher power, surprisingly the risk is actually to the speakers! If you don’t get enough volume there is a temptation that you’ll turn the amplifier up to the point where it distorts, this generates higher frequencies and can create enough to burn out the tweeter. You’d need to be a bit cloth-eared to do this, but it happens quite often.

71
General / Re: Focer Font of knowledge speaker power RMS and stuff
« on: 28 May 2019, 12:22:01 PM »

The matching of power ratings between amp and speakers is not a precise science.
Loudspeaker distortion is not as unpleasant as amplifier clipping so I prefer to err on the side of having a beefier amp (within reason). Any modern amp will have protection circuitry that cuts the output in the event of an internal fault, so the chances of the speakers bursting into flames is not worth worrying about.

72
General / Re: Focer Font of knowledge speaker power RMS and stuff
« on: 27 May 2019, 11:19:35 PM »
After 15 years use in a kitchen environment the old speaker cones are probably getting a bit soft, but I’d do a side by side comparison before deciding which pair to use.

73
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Engine stops when engaging 1st
« on: 19 May 2019, 11:34:43 AM »
Did you squeeze the lever and see the clutch plates separate while the cover was off? (When you’ve taken it apart it’s quite easy to lose the ball bearing that lives at the clutch end of the pushrod.)

74
FZS600 Fazer / Re: YAMAHA FAZER 600 2002 Gearbox/ Clutch issues
« on: 13 May 2019, 08:19:47 AM »
With the clutch is the opposite! I pop it in accidentally now all the time without even engaging the clutch. A slight bump in the road will do that!
OK, I'm in agreement with everyone saying the detent spring now. :)

75
FZS600 Fazer / Re: YAMAHA FAZER 600 2002 Gearbox/ Clutch issues
« on: 12 May 2019, 06:31:04 PM »


Sorry, didn't read your first post carefully enough. You're correct, that wouldn't be so likely to affect higher gears, first to second is the one that shows the issue first because the neutral detent requires the drum to be rotated further than between the other gears.
If the clutch was dragging you'd notice difficulty getting between 1st and neutral, yet it's odd that replacing the clutch seemed to fix it temporarily.
It might be worth taking the clutch cover off and taking a closer look and see if you can spot what is happening.
By side to side play in the gear shaft do you mean axial? A bit of radial slop is normal, but if the shaft is able to move too far to the left side of the engine it could result in the same collision with the pins of the selector drum that I had. And that might account for it working some of the time and not others.
Thinking about it, a suitable washer on the shaft to keep it a millimetre further away would have fixed my issue a lot easier.   :lol


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