Date: 31-03-20  Time: 17:11 PM

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Messages - His Dudeness

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FZS600 Fazer / Re: Clock Lights Dim
« on: 04 November 2019, 07:13:53 PM »
When you press the start button the oil warning light is grounded through the cut off relay so the oil light should come on. It's a bulb test. You could use that to check that the oil light led is in correctly. If you turn the kill switch off you can hold the start button in and the light will come on without the engine starting.

FZS600 Fazer / Re: Rear disc hot
« on: 30 October 2019, 11:34:47 PM »
You could be resting your foot on the lever as you're riding, the system could be over filled with fluid, caliper might need a clean/rebuild. Can you turn the wheel by hand when the disc is cold?

Taking the head off and replacing valve seals is doable at home.  You need a suitable torque wrench and a valve spring compressor.  Read the manual a few times so you know the procedure and how to time the engine. If you go slow and careful you should be able to do it. The hardest part would probably be getting the exhaust off without shearing studs.

FZS600 Fazer / Re: Not much luck with the Gunsons Colortune
« on: 15 September 2019, 12:07:49 PM »
I think your main problem is the spark plugs. They look old and fouled. I think it's time for new ones. In your video of the cylinder that was arcing, I'd guess the fouled plug is causing high resistance and the electricity is finding a lower resistance path through the colour tune to the head. When it does that you lose spark on that cylinder and you'd be running on three cylinders so to stop that I'd replace the spark plugs. Next I'd check that the air filter is in good condition. Next if you've been adjusting the mixture screws I'd set them back to what it says in the manual. After doing all that it should be running right and you can do some fine tuning with your colour tune.  The coils seems to be putting out a good spark so I wouldn't replace them.

General / Re: Bell Helmet Visor (E3?)
« on: 03 September 2019, 10:31:06 PM »
I think that's a failure and a defective visor and it's not fit for purpose. How is it strong enough to protect you during a crash if closing it cracks it? Did you close it with a hammer? There's no way should you be able to crack it by closing it. I'd contact the place you bought it from and at the least they should replace the visor

FZS600 Fazer / Re: Oil residue on re-built forks
« on: 31 August 2019, 12:13:38 PM »
If they're Japanese they will be good quality. Never heard of seals coming with a cleaning tool. That's a nice extra.

General / Re: The cool bike thread......
« on: 28 August 2019, 12:07:37 AM »
very cool 8)

General / Re: man down...
« on: 28 August 2019, 12:04:13 AM »
Good to hear Dave is on the mend. Sounds like he is made of tough stuff. Hopefully the pillion pulls through too.

FZS600 Fazer / Re: Oil residue on re-built forks
« on: 27 August 2019, 11:48:39 PM »
Was there any pitting on the fork stanchions? It there was it could have damaged the new seal. Did you fill the oil to the correct level? Did you use Yamaha seals or aftermarket ones? Aftermarket seals can be a bit hit and miss and not seal properly.

It would be unusual to happen on new seals but sometimes a seal leaks because a bit of dirt gets trapped between the seal and the stanchion. I used a sheet of printer paper rolled tight around the stanchion and then pushed the paper past the seal to remove some dirt and it stopped the leak. That was on an old seal but it might be worth a try. The alternative is buy another set of seals and do the job again. I'd recommend Yamaha seals.

FZS600 Fazer / Re: Broken Key
« on: 25 August 2019, 07:54:26 PM »
Local hardware shop is about £3, Chain places probably more like £8 - £10 nowadays.

That sounds about right, but get one cut & if works get another cut as a spare.  Smile



agree :lol

FZS600 Fazer / Re: bike fails under load
« on: 18 August 2019, 09:17:06 PM »
Is it running on three cylinders?  If you're not sure you could do the water on the headers trick to find out. Start it, let it warm up, throw some water on the headers and see if one of them dries a lot slower than the others. If one dries slower, that cylinder isn't running properly. Then you have to determine if it's a spark or fuel problem on that cylinder. Take the plug out and check for spark. If you've got good spark it's probably a problem in the carb. If it's been parked up on the side stand in the rain there's a good chance the problem is on cylinder 3. Rain water collects around the spark plug on cylinder 3 and causes problems. Another thing. Start it when it's dark and look for arcing around the plug caps. You'll see small blue arcs between the plug caps and the head

General / Re: The cool bike thread......
« on: 18 August 2019, 01:29:27 PM »
electric fazer?? :eek

FZS600 Fazer / Re: Hi guys how much for a headstock bearing change
« on: 17 August 2019, 11:22:01 AM »
Call a few places and ask them. I'd guess an hours labour plus the price of the bearings.

General / Re: Whoever posts last is best
« on: 10 August 2019, 10:12:48 PM »
^ You might as well close the thread now. How much is my cash prize? £10,000 seems fair

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: TFT Dash for the Fazer 1000 / FZ1
« on: 10 August 2019, 09:57:19 PM »
Very impressive ;) Would making it work on other bikes like the 600 require a total re-design or just some minor tweeking?

Bit of a thread hi-jack but would you have any recommendations for good books or sources of information on electronics used in motorbikes? Or just good books on basic electronics? :)

FZS600 Fazer / Re: 100,000 mile report
« on: 10 August 2019, 03:36:33 PM »
Did you ever replace the brake discs? Or the clutch lever?

General / Re: Whoever posts last is best
« on: 10 August 2019, 03:20:30 PM »

Yeah well done unfazed. This place would be screwed without your input and half the Fazers in England wouldn't be running :lol I'm always amazed that people just start cutting into their loom when they don't know what they're doing.

FZS600 Fazer / Re: Infrequent cutting out and magical recovery
« on: 04 August 2019, 09:06:30 PM »
Seemed like it was cutting after a short ride before. If you rode for an hour with no problems it's probably good now. Too bad we won't know if it was the immobiliser or the wiring! As far as sagas go that wasn't too bad. You should have a look at Red98's stutter thread for a real saga :lol,2066.msg15672.html#msg15672

Introduction / Re: Hi, new tuga foccer here
« on: 03 August 2019, 09:17:25 PM »
Hi ;) Portugal is a beautiful country. Perfect for bikes and the women are damn sexy!

Introduction / Re: Hello all
« on: 03 August 2019, 09:13:33 PM »
Hi ;) The 400 is a rare bike but they still seem to pop up all over the world 8)

FZS600 Fazer / Re: Infrequent cutting out and magical recovery
« on: 03 August 2019, 09:07:57 PM »
If you've confirmed you've got ground coming out of the ignition you'll have to check if you've got it going into the alarm and if you've got continuity between the alarm and the ignitor. I've never had an alarm on a bike so I've no experience of them but I think all they do to immobilise the bike is they stop the switched ground getting to the ignitor so that stops spark and they stop the switched ground between the starter button and the cut-off relay so that stops the starter motor turning over. Your starter is turning over when you press the start button so that part of the alarm is working so that might point more towards the alarm is actually working but there's a break in a wire. But I guess it's possible that something has failed in the alarm that only affects the ground to the ignitor and not the ground between the starter button and the cut-off relay

FZS600 Fazer / Re: Infrequent cutting out and magical recovery
« on: 02 August 2019, 06:13:21 PM »
You're definitely on the money Dudeness - I went out for a test run, with a bit of wire wedged in the SS ground on the ECU so I could probe it, died within 200yds, no ground. Engine starts up right away if I short the pin to ground, and then dies again when I remove the short.

After a while it decided to work again, and then died for a while after I dropped the seat back down. Wiggling the wiring around the rear of the tail doesn't seem to have any effect. The immobiliser still makes all its usual beeps and things when it won't start - so its power, ground and switched ignition are still good.

Considering it cut out when I placed the seat down, and it wasn't moving, I'm inclined to believe the fault may be in the immobiliser rather than the ignition switch - some kind of transistor-y thing breaking down, as it allows a small amount of current to go to ground when the bike is off. Any better ideas before I make a mess of the immobiliser harness to bypass it... and still have the problem?

Nice one ;) That proves that the fault is the switched ground not getting back to the ignitor. Next you have to find where the open is. I'd start at the ignition since it's the easiest place to test. If you follow the wires off the back of the ignition they go to the junction box under the tank. There are two connectors coming off the ignition, a two pin and a four pin. You're interested in the four pin connector. With your meter on DC Volts put the red lead on the battery positive and the black lead on Blue/Yellow in the four pin connector. You should see 12V on the meter when the side stand is up and OL when it's down. Next put the black lead of the meter on the Black wire in the four pin connector and turn the ignition on. You should see 12V on the meter when the ignition is on and the side stand is up and OL when the ignition is off or the side stand is down. That would prove the ground is getting from the side stand through the ignition and that everything is good up to that point so the fault has to be after the ignition.

If you find a fault in the ignition you could jump the Blue/Yellow to the Black with a bit of wire and the bike should start. If the ignition test good and you have ground coming out of it the next place the ground goes is the alarm connector so you would have to identify that Black wire that's coming out of the ignition at the alarm and check that it still has ground when it gets to the alarm. That's easier said than done since all the wires at the alarm connector are black!

FZS600 Fazer / Re: Infrequent cutting out and magical recovery
« on: 02 August 2019, 06:01:22 AM »
Does the bike have an alarm fitted? After it cut out did the starter motor turn the engine over? If it did that rules out quite a lot. For the starter to turn over 12V has to get to the cut-off relay. For 12V to get to the cut-off relay it has to go through the 12V circuit in the ignition switch, the ignition fuse and the kill switch so if the starter turned over you could assume all those components must be good.

If the starter turned over the ground to the cut-off relay must have been good too. Were you in neutral when you were cranking the engine? If so the ground from the neutral switch must have been good and it must have got as far as the cut-off relay. The ground from the neutral switch also should have gone to the ignitor and that should have been enough to start the engine but it didn't start so the ground from the neutral switch was good but it didn't make it back to the ignitor. Also when the bike cut out it was in gear so that means it cut out when the ground going back to the ignitor was coming from the side stand. So that means ground couldn't get back to the ignitor from either neutral or the side stand so that would suggest the open must have been at a point that is common to both of them. The most likely common point is the ignition switch or the connectors to the alarm. Or it could be right at the connector to the ignitor.

If the bike cuts out again you can test the theory by checking for ground at the ignitor when the bike is in neutral and the key is on. There are two ground wires at the ignitor, both are black. One is a permanent ground, the other one is the switched ground from the neutral and side stand. You're interested in the switched ground. If you turn the ignition switch on and put the bike in neutral, set your multimeter to DC Volts and put the red lead on the battery positive and the black lead on the black wires in the ignitor connector you should see 12V on the meter. With the leads still attached turn the ignition off. If you're on the permanent ground the meter will stay at 12V. If you're on the switched ground the meter will go to OL or if the switched ground is open all the time because of a fault the meter will read OL all the time and that would prove the fault.

All that is guess work though because we still don't know if it's actually losing spark or not. If it's running now you won't be able to test the ignitor for the switched ground but you can still visually check the wiring and connectors around the ignition, alarm connectors and ignitor and hopefully you'll see something obvious like a frayed wire or a corroded connector. If you can't see anything obvious you'll have to wait until the bike cuts out again and then check for spark. If there's no spark check for the switched ground at the ignitor.

General / Re: New toy, few questions...
« on: 31 July 2019, 09:02:14 PM »
Good choice, they're brilliant bikes. Super comfortable and a nice bit of wind protection for the legs. That one looks immaculate 8)

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