Date: 18-02-20  Time: 21:11 PM

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Messages - His Dudeness

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FZS600 Fazer / Re: FZS600 first bike - advice?
« on: 30 January 2020, 05:55:18 PM »
This one looks like a real bargain at £1050

For Sale & Wanted / Re: My 1998 Fazer 600
« on: 26 January 2020, 10:16:26 PM »
Sorry mate it’s £1050
Won't take long to sell at that price!

Introduction / Re: New member introduction January 2020!
« on: 26 January 2020, 10:09:35 PM »
Nice bike. If you put your questions in the Fazer 1000 section you're more likely to get an answer. Not many people look at the introductions

FZS600 Fazer / Re: Front Fairing Decals
« on: 26 January 2020, 09:41:53 PM »
You could get them from Yamaha using the part number in the parts catalogue but they probably cost a small fortune;cat=2

FZS600 Fazer / Re: pipes from cam shaft
« on: 25 January 2020, 07:04:05 PM »
While you're in there I'd take the breather off. It's the fat s shaped pipe and check if it's blocked up with emulsified oil. The mayo looking gunk. I think if the oil was ever over filled some can get pushed up into the air box and it turns to mayo and blocks the pipes.

FZS600 Fazer / Re: Help Repairing My Beloved FZS
« on: 23 January 2020, 09:46:02 PM »
Thanks for that.  That's presently unscrewed from the casing but still connected to the wiring harness.  Would this prevent it starting?  I guess it's not earthed as I've got it.
Yea without the pickup coil there would be no signal sent to the ignitor to tell it when to fire the spark plugs so no spark. It has earth. It has two wires one is earth the other one is the signal wire back to the ignitor. It needs to be bolted into the engine cover to create the signal at the right time as the rotor spins past it

FZS600 Fazer / Re: Help Repairing My Beloved FZS
« on: 23 January 2020, 08:33:09 PM »
The pickup coil is beside the stator. It has a white dot on it in this picture.

FZS600 Fazer / Re: Carb problems or is it something more?? Fazer 600
« on: 23 January 2020, 08:24:57 PM »
The butterfly's being open more will increase the Hg reading, these should only be open when the throttle is twisted.  With the throttle fully home the Hg reading is set via the pilot circuit only, each must be between 230- 250mmHg at between 1150 - 1250rpm, if the reading is too high the butterfly isn't in it's rest position.  This could be due to a number of factors, bad assembly, worn/broken part/s or incorrect previous carb balancing.

I my experience most owners and many stealers don't know how to balance crabs, they go straight for the butterfly screws when it's the pilot circuit that's the issue.  As I stated unless they're all pulling min/max of 230- 250mmHg with the butterfly's at rest you're wasting your time.   The other real big mistake onwers/stealers make is moving the TPS, this is set at the factory and it doesn't move (unless it's faulty) in operation it's a datum.  They test it, it's reading over/under and they move it, that's it the datum is moved, the reason it's out (and it only works on the one carb No4) is because the butterfly/linkage has moved/worn, so no longer aligning with the datum.  It's the butterfly/linkage that needs bring back to the datum, by resetting them, i.e. level of Hg, then balance all the others, 4-3 then 1-2 then 1-2 & 3- 4.   Just about every TPS has been moved and in my experience just about every bike I've worked on the carbs are out of balance!               
Great info thanks! I thought the vacuum in the intake manifolds would be strongest when the butterfly valves were closed that's why I said his butterfly valves might have been slightly open. Guess I had it backwards :lol One more question when you're doing carbs do you set the mixture screws first using the reading on the vacuum gauge, then balance the carbs using the balance screws?

FZS600 Fazer / Re: Carb problems or is it something more?? Fazer 600
« on: 22 January 2020, 06:53:43 PM »
If the engine is only pulling 150Hg there's something very wrong with the pilot circuit probably the screw setting.  Unless you can get the intake vacuum between 230 - 250mmHg you're never going to set the carbs up correctly and the bike will run like a dog.

I suggest you recheck each carb and what you've or I think you said mate put in and how.   
Gnasher I know at idle its the pilot circuit and mixture screws that have the biggest effect at idle but if the butterfly valves where open more than they should be from an incorrect carb balance could that be another reason for lower mmHg readings?

FZS600 Fazer / Re: Help Repairing My Beloved FZS
« on: 22 January 2020, 05:41:11 PM »
I'd go for good used parts off ebay but you can get genuine parts here

General / Re: 3 things that make a relay look factory fitted
« on: 21 January 2020, 10:04:34 PM »
Yea good quality electrical connectors aren't cheap but as you say if you make the investment and buy a box you should have them for life. Soldering isn't cheap either. You need a decent soldering iron with a bit of power, good quality leaded solder, rosin flux, cleaner for the iron tip and heat shrink. It all adds up but it's a good skill to have if you can repair wiring :D I'd like to get a really nice crimper tool for doing the OEM style block connectors. Another tool to add to the list :lol

FZS600 Fazer / Re: Temporary lack of power
« on: 21 January 2020, 09:53:30 PM »
That Silkolene stuff smells like alcohol so it's probably mostly just isopropol alcohol the same as darrsi uses. Even with the heater circuit open I wonder could you still have carb icing because it would take a few miles for the coolant to warm up especially on a cold day.

There's an interesting chart on carb icing

FZS600 Fazer / Re: Temporary lack of power
« on: 21 January 2020, 06:38:13 PM »
I've got a bottle of this stuff. It's supposed to help prevent carb icing. Might be worth a try

General / Re: 3 things that make a relay look factory fitted
« on: 21 January 2020, 05:36:49 PM »
I never would have guessed that was a relay. Looks like a connector. Very tidy install! The solder and seal connectors look very handy too.

FZS600 Fazer / Re: Carb problems or is it something more?? Fazer 600
« on: 21 January 2020, 05:22:08 PM »
Are you sure you did the compression check correctly? Did you warm the engine before you did the test? Did you fully open the throttle? Are you sure the air filter is in good condition? Were you cranking the engine with a strong battery? Did you repeat the test with some oil in the cylinders? And what were the results after you added the oil?

I have a bike with low compression from worn rings/cylinders. The symptoms it's showing are it's hard to start when cold, it's down on power and top speed and it has a lot of blow-by into the crankcase. It's hard to start when cold however if you put a little oil in the cylinders it start instantly because the oil is sealing the cylinders and bringing the compression up. After it starts it runs well, it has no hesitation or spluttering anywhere. I think in your case it seems more likely that you had a spark issue after cleaning the engine, then later down the road you had a carb issue and you did some carb work and either it didn't fix the problem or it made the problem worse.

Just so we're all clear what exactly are your current symptoms?

General / Re: Puncture repair kits (Roadside)
« on: 18 January 2020, 06:27:19 PM »
These are good.
Only thing you have to be careful of is that over time the glue can go off. It'll be a long time though as it's not exactly something you'll use often unless you're unlucky (like me).
I use that style plug. Never had a problem with them. If you look very closely at the picture in the ad, the tool for pushing the plug into the tyre is split at the end so as you pull the tool out the plug is pulled through the gap in the tool and remains in the tyre

Nice one for taking the pics ;) Very interesting to see the components inside. Well I think so anyway :lol

Don't undo anything only asked out of interest on the off chance that you took some pics during the repair. Thanks for the info

FZS600 Fazer / Re: Ignition circuit on bikes
« on: 18 January 2020, 11:44:31 AM »
On the 2002/3 Foxeye FZS600, and presumably on the 1,000, the headlights are indeed controlled by a couple of relays. When I fitted a Foxeye fairing and lights with twin main beam and twin dip to a 1998 FZS600 I had to do a bit of head scratching because the earlier wiring harness didn't lend itself to taking the set-up and relays from the 2002/3 model.
Instead i came up with the layout shown in the (poor quality) picture here which uses a couple of bog standard relays. As anyone with a Boxeye knows those lights are very poor so now ten times better.
Excellent drawing limax ;) Very clear and has all the info needed. Taking the the power for headlight away from the ignition switch circuit and giving the headlight it's own circuit seems like a good idea since the headlight is probably the biggest load on the fuse box. The foxeye has relays for the headlight but it looks like the relay gets it's switched power from the fuse box so the full current still goes through the ignition switch so that's not any better than the way the boxeye does it if you're looking at it from the point of view of the load through the ignition switch. The way limax has drawn it the current for the headlights would be coming straight from the battery so his way seems better to me.

The way I was thinking to do it was you have a relay beside the fuse box. When the ignition key is switched on it switches on the control side of a relay and powers the whole fuse box. The switched power would come from the battery positive through the relay and then to the fusebox so the load is taken off the ignition switch. The battery is right beside the fuse box so the power wire would only need to be a few inches long so less voltage drop and the full current doesn't need to go through the ignition switch and the wiring to the ignition switch so less voltage drop there too. Seems like a better way to do it to me. The only reason I can think of why they don't do it that way is maybe it would make the bike easier to steal? If you bypassed the relay you would put power to the fusebox and turn everything on without the key but the bike still wouldn't start since the switched ground to the ignitor would still be open in the ignition switch so you would still have to turn the key to make the bike start.

You did well to figure out that problem! Have you got any pics of the inside of the cut out relay? Would be interesting to see what it looks like.

You could try putting it on the center stand and then apply the rear brake with your foot and with the brake applied rotate the wheel back and forward and check if anything is moving or making noise with the brake applied. Could be the pads moving in the caliper or loose caliper/tie bar as gerkin said. If it's not the coming from the rear brake it could be the wheel bearings, the swing arm bearing or suspension bearings. Think that's about all it could be if it's coming from the rear

FZS600 Fazer / Re: Carb problems or is it something more?? Fazer 600
« on: 16 January 2020, 07:54:24 PM »
If the revs are staying high since you took out the carbs I'd be thinking the carbs might not be seated fully and there might be a vacuum leak. You could spray some wd40 around the intake area and listen for a change in revs. I'd also check that the throttle cable is routed correctly, that it's not adjusted too tight and that it snaps back properly when you release the grip. Also check that the choke plungers are all returning properly.

I'd agree with bazza the ht caps are a possible problem. They're a common failure and can cause a misfire. You could try spraying some water around the caps while the bike is running and listen if the engine stumbles. You can also run the bike in the dark and look for arcing. Another trick is put water on the exhaust headers and see if one header dries slower than the rest, that can show a cylinder that's not running properly. The ngks caps are very cheap so worth replacing anyway.

If the bike has been running badly for a good while I'd take out the spark plugs and inspect them, clean them off and see if that helps. If they're very bad I'd replace them. I haven't had TPS problems so I'm not sure what symptoms from that are but I know darrsi has had trouble with his so it's worth checking if he says so. Another possibility, Red98 had serious problems trying to solve a stutter, he rebuilt half the bike trying to find fix it and it turned out to be a bad reg/rec so that could be worth checking.
I'd start by ruling out those problems one at a time because they're the easiest. If you're confident all those things are good then look at the carbs. As a quick test on the carbs you could try leaving the choke on a bit and ride the bike. If the symptoms improve then it would point to the problem being a lack of fuel from the carbs.

 :agree        well said DUDE, some great advice there    :thumbup
I put my guessing hat on and that's what I pulled out :lol Could be totally wrong but that adds to the excitement of diy mechanics (bodging)  :lol

FZS600 Fazer / Ignition switch circuit on bikes
« on: 16 January 2020, 07:45:38 PM »
If you look on the wiring diagram for the Fazer and for most bikes from what I can see the main power wire runs from the battery, through the main fuse then to the ignition switch, then from the ignition switch to the fuse box and from the fuse box it runs to all the other circuits through the various fuses. That means the ignition switch and the connectors and wiring to it have to take the full switched current for the whole bike. If you have a fault on that circuit like the common burnt connector going to the ignition caused by a poor connection in the connector or high resistance in the ignition switch from old age and wear and tear, the voltage to everything drops including the ignition coils so you would have weaker spark. So the question is why do they design it like that where the ignition switches all the current? Would it not make more sense if the ignition switched a relay and the relay powered the fuse box? That way the ignition switch only passes a tiny current or is there a reason why they use the ignition switch to switch the current and they don't use a relay?

FZS600 Fazer / Re: Bridgestone BT016 VS BT023
« on: 16 January 2020, 07:25:03 PM »
I'd go for the newer PR tyres. It's hard to move away from tyres that you trust especially with the cost of buying and fitting them. And you don't want to be stuck with tyres that you don't like for thousands of miles. But they seem to be constantly improving the compounds so it's worth the risk to me. And the PR tyres seem to get great reviews

FZS600 Fazer / Re: Sale price
« on: 16 January 2020, 07:15:17 PM »
Looks like a solid bike but the fairing will put a lot of people off. If you could get a used fairing for around £100 I think it would be worth doing. I think it would add more than £100 to the asking price and it would be more likely to sell. And give it a clean of course!

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