Date: 19-01-19  Time: 16:44 PM

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Topics - tommyardin

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Articles / Am I being silly?
« on: 24 October 2018, 10:47:08 PM »
Here some food for though and I would appreciate others ideas on the topic.

I have been thinking about the topic of forks and cornering.

I have heard tell that raising the fork stanchions up through the top steering yoke by 20mm improves the turning in (Steering) on a motorcycle, doing this lowers the front of the motorcycle by that amount, now does lowering the front of the bike by 20mm improve the handling? I can't see it myself, what else it does do is effectively shorten the bike by that amount, now I can see that making a difference to the turn in on a motorcycle, a slightly shorter wheel base.

I have also read that by raising the forks (Lowering the bike) by 20mm causes the bike to be a little less stable on the straights at higher speeds.
If this is true there is a trade off going on here, slightly better steering for sightly worse straight line stability.

Now when approaching a bend we knock the bike down one or maybe two cogs and gently brake to reduce our speed to a safe pace to take the corner, now very gently, and I mean gently hold the front brake a little longer into the bend will cause the bike to dip slightly on the front forks, effectively lowering the front of the bike, or if you prefer shortening the bike as we approach the apex of the bend.

It seems to me that has exactly the same effect as raising the fork stanchions (or lowering the bike) but that shortening it is recoverable as soon as we let go of the front brake lever so there is no compromise to the straight line handling or stability, so as you start to apply power coming out of the apex let the front brake lever go as well
at that point, bike rises with the power and bike is now at it's maximum length and straight line stability is returned in full.

Wot-ch-fink ?

Well I have given into an urge that has plagued me for years now and bought my self a BLUE motorcycle, yes the true colour, but I might fit some Silver bits to it just cos I can.

What bike is it? You ask.

Well I am loathed to tell you because i know you will all be green with envy.

It is not in my possession yet, but am going over to give it a good once over tomorrow, but I have done the deal and electronically shaken hands on it.

Below is a picture of the mighty one, not actually this very one but its the same in most details, apart from its has been in a barn for the last 5 years, a dry barn I hasten to add and was last started about 18 months ago.

I know you jealous lot of foccers are all on the edge of you seat thinking is a a Moto Guzzi or a Laverda Jotta or some such beast, no I tell you much, much better that either of those.

It is a

For Sale & Wanted / Caliper and parts
« on: 01 December 2017, 10:25:53 PM »
Hey guys a couple of bits surplus to requirements.

FZS1000 Gen1 rear disk hanger plus the caliper anchor bar/rod see pic below.

Also a 2003 FZS 600 Fazer caliper, in reasonably good nick, the pistons look absolutely fine, not rusty, as does the rest of the caliper, the hex key pad pins are OK and undo as do the bleed screws. The caliper works absolutely fine and has no problems, it might look better for a repaint if you can be arsed, see the pic.
If your interested £12-00 would do it but remember postage needs to be added, so bear that in mind (38K miles) on caliper

I did not pay a fortune for the blue spot caliper and aesthetically the blue spot is in better condition, so not wanting a lot for the 600 one, hence £12 + postage

I took it off the FZS 600 to fit the upgrade Blue Spot Caliper from the fZS1000, hence the Gen1 FZS 1000 caliper hanger and anchor/torsion bar being up for grabs. if someone wants to pay the postage on the hanger and torsion bar they are welcome to it.       

FZS600 Fazer / Not sure where to post this
« on: 19 October 2017, 09:56:06 PM »
I have a friend who owns a 250cc Royal Enfield Continental GT that has a leak in the Fibre Glass fuel tank, the leak appears to be coming from some where around the fuel cock/tap.
Anyone know of a company in the South of UK (Hampshire maybe) that specialises in that type of repair?

FZS600 Fazer / Strong gusts
« on: 15 October 2017, 09:45:21 PM »
High winds forecast for tonight, make sure your bike is secure if it's left outside, led to believe bikes with covers over them are more likely to be blown over.

FZS600 Fazer / Fuel tank capacity on FZS600 Foxeye 2003
« on: 04 October 2017, 09:45:39 PM »
Just a question really: 

What is the fuel tank capacity on FZS600 Foxeye 2003.
Been told three different capacities  :rolleyes

Maybe i should have asked the question elsewhere rather than starting a post.  :o

FZS600 Fazer / Over wintering my FZS 600
« on: 29 September 2017, 10:15:58 PM »
 Last year I put a fuel additive in my petrol tank and left it full over winter after starting the bike and leaving it running for 20 minutes to get it up to temperature and get the additive through the carb system.
I don't recall what it was called other than it was a stabiliser of some discription that also helped stop varnishing of the fuel system anyone have any recommendations

FZS600 Fazer / Target fixation
« on: 19 September 2017, 04:46:05 PM »

Well worth a look.
The book and video 'A Twist of the Wrist 11' deals with this at some length.

FZS600 Fazer / How Much!
« on: 11 July 2017, 09:05:50 AM »
Decided to do an oil change on the old girl a couple of days ago, so after a long brisk ride when returning home with engine very hot
(Ride and 28C temperature)
I drained the oil out and spun the oil filter off, new alloy washer on the drain plug, lubed the new filter rubber seal spun it back on.

Bollocks only car oil in the shed and about 1Ltr of Shell Advanced 4T Motorcycle Oil, 7-30pm garages shut put bike away.

I made a couple of phone calls to local motorcycle shops the next morning, one which will remain nameless quoted £70-49 for 4 Liters of Motul Fully Synthetic 10-40, WTF!.  :eek
When I questioned them about that price I was told it was a premium oil that all the best race teams use. So I ordered 5 X 4 Liter cans, actually I hung up.
I then phoned up A Force Motor Cycles of Aldershot and purchased my usual tipple for the old girl 'Shell Advanced 4T synthetic @ £35 for 4 Ltrs, now I would love to know how much better Motol Oil over Shell Advanced?.

I wont name the garage that wanted to charge me double for 4 Ltrs of oil, no I am not being generous toward them its just that I might be stuck and need them in the future LOL :lol

Fresh oil in the Fazer and tools away.

Now I am one of those sad sods that likes to keep a record of all the work I have done on the bike, dates, mileages etc, so opening up my Yammy maintenance book I notice when recording mileage that I had in fact only done 2,300 miles since the previous oil & filter change, looking back I did the last change on 17/03/15 but hardly rode the bike that year because of a very ill and final loss of my Mum-in Law
(Now no Mother-In-Law jokes :lol ) She was a great old lady.
So what is the most anyone has been asked for by a suppler for 4 Ltrs Of 4T Motorcycle Oil ? Synthetic or Semi Synthetic.

FZS600 Fazer / Osram LED Cool White Back/Stop light bulbs
« on: 08 July 2017, 05:50:10 PM »
Hello Fellow Foccers,
Before you get excited about the LED Back/Stop light bulbs, one post in here was going on about how bright they are, believe me they are NOT in fact they give out about half the light of the standard incandescent bulb. The LED bulb itself 15 LED diodes so you would think would be incredibly bright
(All work for brake light some work for rear light)
The issue with them is that the LED's are round the side of the bulb and none on the top or end of the bulb so none of them face the rear (See attached Photo) honestly they are worse than useless.
Sorry Osram 'Must try harder'

If one of you wants to try them I will gladly give them to you with all the packaging, and, I will gladly pay the postage to get rid of the hopeless pieces of crap.

EvilBay link to SHIT bulbs.

If you want them the first person to message me will become the unfortunate owner.

General / WTF
« on: 28 May 2017, 12:05:46 AM »
Typical  :'(

I have not been to the USA for about 28 years now, my Wife and Daughter have never been, so we booked up about 6 weeks ago to fly out with BA on Monday 29th to visit my Son who is in St Louis Missouri, our fist stop was to be O'hare Chigcaro and then internal flight to St Louis, then after a couple of days fly on to Cali and visit Carmel by the sea where Clint Eastwood was Mayor (Love Clint, no I said Clint).

Tonight I heard on the news (Been up in Knightsbridge all day so heard nothing until tonight) that BA computers have had a massive melt down and no BA flights have left either Heathrow or Gatwick today and the computer system is still F----d so it don't look good for Monday :'(   There is going to be One Mother of a backlog.
Hopefully they will sort it tomoz and we will be able to go at some point early in the week.
We booked with BA (Not the cheapest) because we thought that they would be the most comfortable and most reliable.

FZS600 / Some twat has lost his FZS600 Keys
« on: 23 May 2017, 11:44:13 PM »
Now matter how hard I look, them fooking keys allude me .
Why is it when you lose something you go back and check exactly the same place a great number of times, I think I have almost worn the back pockets out on my Kevlar jeans shoving my hand in them, just in case they are hiding in the corner but they never are.

Now I do have a set of (2) old keys, but, the ignition key is badly worn it is not much good as a pattern for getting a key cut from.

On both of the split rings of the keys (One key does ignition the other key does the seat lock and the fuel tank) are small metal tags about 10mm X 30mm and they both have a number stamped on it, both of them start with the letter 'A' and has 4 digits after it (Digits are different on both keys) Now my question is does anyone know if this is the actual cut key shape or the blank shape.
My guess (Hope) is that it is the cut key shape and not just the blank as the two blanks look the same and both go right into the ignition barrel but only one will turn, the same situation with the fuel cap lock, but the other key.

FZS600 Fazer / Fazer Decals
« on: 18 April 2017, 06:43:56 PM »
Hi guys,
I am looking for some advice, I dropped my bike (FZS600) a couple of years ago, it was stationary at the time, so, no great damage, but it did put a couple of cracks in the front fairing, one where the off side indicator is mounted and on at the rear end of the front fairing where the rear fixing screw is.

Now I am quite a dab hand at fibre glass repairs so I removed the fairing from the bike and thoroughly cleaned (Brake and Clutch Cleaner) the inside of the fairing where the damage was and scored it with a sharp chisel to form a key for the glass resin, I laminated the area giving a good 3 inches past each crack with 2 layers of course matting and one layer of fine glass mesh.
With the fairing infill panels in place the repairs are completely invisible. I have lived with it for two years but feel it's time for a makeover, the cracks are hardly noticeable when viewing the bike, unless you are doing a close inspection, but want to do a better job by scratching out the cracks and using some fine filler and respraying, here comes the issue how the FOC do I get the FAZER decals off the fairing without doing more damage that is already done.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
For those who read my post with regard to the passing of my much loved MR2 Mk 3, I have decided to replace it with a BMW Z4 2.5 straight 6   :eek , I tell you this as a warning as BMW drivers are not very popular in here, mainly because most of them need a white stick, that is those who look, but don't see, the others just need a swift blow to the side of the temple. :rollin :rollin :rollin
I am hoping not to fall into either category. 


I have listened to what people have said on all sorts of different topics and I hope I have thought about it in a fair and open way, and of course have learned from some of them.
I have been convinced by different people’s ideas on different subjects and topics.

But just like everyone else, I tend to think that the way I have always done things is the right way, and I know that each and everyone of us is no different, hence all the heated discussion and debates on here and every other forum that you will ever go on, because we all think we are right.

Heated debate is not a bad thing, because just sometimes it manages to find the truth or the right or wrongs on what is being debated.I put forward to you my thoughts on torque settings (Boring! I hear some say) but if you think that, go put the kettle on and read no further.

But here we go, at the end of this you can say ‘I don’t believe it, or he’s talking like a prat, or ‘what a load of bollocks’ but do not just dismiss stuff because it is not the way you have always done things or thought about things, think about it and weigh up what is being said, if you then decide its not for you then that’s OK, at least you have thought about it.

You know what? there was a time when pretty much everyone thought that the world was flat and that if you sailed far enough you would fall off the edge, and then someone put forward the notion that in fact they though it was round and that it was not possible to fall off the edge, and the majority said ‘What a prick’   

I have heard it said that lubricating nuts and bolts will give your false torque settings and it’s possible to over tighten and strip threads, or shear off bolt and screw heads if lubrication is applied.

Now, if you are winding up a nut and bolt that has lubrication applied, as tight as you think it should go using ordinary spanners relying on just touch or feel, then you may very well shear it off, because the passage of the nut on the bolt will be easy, with little resistance because of lack of friction (metal against metal)

Now If you apply the same lubricant to the same nut and bolt and tighten it up with a torque wrench to the recommended torque setting for that nut and bolt, your torque wrench will break away at the setting that you have set the torque wrench at, it will not over tighten it, or shear it, the problem comes when people feel that the nut and bolt seemed to tighten up very easily, because of lack of frictional/resistance because of the applied lube, so they then lay on the torque wrench passed the breakaway point and tighten it just a bit more, and maybe just one more tweak for good luck, because they don’t believe their torque wrench.

20Nm is 20Nm no matter how smooth or rough the passage of the fastener is, it is still 20 Nm.

In fact you will get a more accurate bite using lube because there is no dry resistance to overcome.       

If for example you had a small nut and bolt with fine thread that was a bit rusty or a dirty thread and it was meant to tightened up to the torque of say 5 Nm. Because of the rust/grunge resistance of the none free running nut you could be applying 1 Nm to over come the resistance of corrosion or grunge in the threads (the non free running nut), then you will not get an accurate reading and the bolt will not be as tight as it should be, because 20% has stolen from your rotational resistance.

The way to get a fixing to the right torque is for it to be as free running as it is possible to get it and use a torque wrench. And don’t doubt your torque wrench; trust it.

Right! where’s that kettle.tommy.

FZS600 Fazer / Wot the FOC-U is going on?
« on: 15 March 2017, 09:31:08 PM »
This is happening more and more often to me is anyone else having this problem?
Some times when I reply or quote to a post, I write out my response, read it through, correct any typos, change what I have said, hoping it is more legible. Then hit post to be confronted with this:

 Internal Server Error  The server encountered an internal error or misconfiguration and was unable to complete your request.
Please contact the server administrator at to inform them of the time this error occurred, and the actions you performed just before this error.
More information about this error may be available in the server error log.
Additionally, a 500 Internal Server Error error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request.

The time it is occurring is more and more often over the last 3 or 4 days. And each time it happens my post is lost/dumped/gone  :'(

In fact it is having the effect of pissing me off and not wanting to bother making any more posts.

And the majority clapped their hands jumped up and down and shouted AMEN!  :eek

in fact I have just copied this message and pasted it into a Word document just in case it goes tits up again when I hit post.
Here goes
update it worked this time, but I'm not holding my breath I will continue writting my posts in MS Word save it and cut and paste it into FOC-U untill its sorted if of course it is a Forum issue and not just mine.

Diesels and Lawnmowers (Bike racing n things) / Mike the Bike
« on: 10 March 2017, 06:37:54 PM »

Click the link below to read about Mike Hailwood, surly one of the best racers in history.

I watched him race up at Oulton Park years ago after his come back when he came out of retirement, Mike was up against Giacomo Agostina, Ago was on his MV Agusta, Mike was on an AJS, Ago had almost twice to power, but each time coming into the tight bends Mike was up on his tail but never had the power to get by. Mike was out braking him and out cornering him but just did not have the grunt. Agostini won the race but Mike pushed him hard. Ten years out of the saddle and came back in 1978 over weight and certainly not at his peak fitness and won the TT on the Island for the 12th time the man was and still is a Legend.

Bikes have come such a long way since then, the guys who ride the TT's now at the speeds they reach are all Heroes in my sight, Speeds back in the 60's & 70's & 80's are nothing like they are now, but the technology then was nothing like it is now and with all the safety features that bikes have now enables higher speeds more stability and reliability. But all the TT riders have massive Balls and I salute you all. :thumbup :woot
I have just notice I call Mike Hailwood 'MIKE' and Giacomo Agostini 'Ago' or 'Agostini' I think it shows were my allegiance lies.

FZS600 Fazer / Oil/Water pump
« on: 27 February 2017, 11:29:56 PM »
This is not a problem, just a question.
I have been reading tonight on one of the post in FOC-U about a 1K Fazer owner who removed one of the metal water pipes from his engine and introduce coolant into the sump  :'( as it was a pipe that went to a shared Oil/Water pump, apparently this pipe passes through the sump/engine to the shared pump. is this the same setup Oil/Water pump on the FZS 600? I ask for future reference. :guitar 

Oh! and check out these bad boys that I purchased today woo woo

FZS600 Fazer / GlPro Gear Indicator Up for Grabs
« on: 13 February 2017, 01:38:35 PM »
Hey! I purchased a GlPro gear indicator (Green Display to match the neutral gear light)

I had a look at fitting it today (First warm day for ages) and realised that the old arthritic wrists are not going to allow that to happen.
I can not grip and hold small parts anymore, and I know that if I try I will get frustrated and I will pay for the next few days with a load of pain and wrists in braces.
So I not going down that route, as tempting as it is.

The upshot of that is I now am the proud owner of a 'GlPro X-Type GlPRO X' that is the indicator display, and the 'GlPro X Type GPX-YO1' that is the harness for the Fazer FZS 600 this is now surplus to requirement.

I did remove both the Display and the Harness from their packaging, but it has gone back in exactly as it was, the clear screen film is still on the display, see pictures

I paid £99.99 on 7th Feb this year including P&P see picture 1 of my eBay purchase page.

If anyone interested they can have it for £50 including P&P, but remember it is a GREEN display colour.

Send a text on 07920062841 or you can message me through Foc-U.


FZS600 Fazer / GlPro Gear Indicator
« on: 09 February 2017, 05:09:59 PM »
Hi guys a little advice if someone can assist.
I have just taken possession of a new GlPro digital gear postion /change indicator and the first thing in the instructions is 'Locate the Speed Sensor Coupler' well I know where the speed sensor is, it's on the front axle, but, where the foc the coupler is in amongst all the junction boxes/connectors I have not a clue.
Any advice gratefully received as it my plan to fit the little beast tomorrow.

 :thumbup In antisipation.

For Sale & Wanted / Red 40mm Yamaha Badges
« on: 17 January 2017, 09:36:11 AM »
I was sent 2 X Red 40mm Genuine Yamaha tuning fork badges by mistake, I ordered Blue and the EvilBay seller sent Red. They apologised and sent replacement Blue badges but told me to keep the Red ones.
They are up for grabs. If they are any use, the first person to message me with an address I will pop them in the post to you free of charge. 

FZS600 Fazer / Someone was asking about cheap Go-Pro alternatives
« on: 10 January 2017, 05:18:20 PM »
Hi guys someone was asking about cheap/sensibly priced sports cams suitable for recording trips and ride outs.
I saw this little beast in Robert Dias this afternoon in Petersfield, (See Picture) I'm sure all stores can get them.
Don't know anything about them but from a store like Robert Dias you will certainly be able to take it back if it does not do what it claims, worth a look anyway if your thinking about one.
I noticed also that in Alton, Hants, that 'Aldi' also have one for £39.99 that they claim is 4K  :eek

I personally have no knowledge of either of these cameras, but fitness for purpose and merchantable quality laws must come into play, if you are unhappy with your purchase you can always take it back and get a refund if it fails to perform as stated.

After recently doing some suspension modding on my FZS600, I have been reading a lot about bike/suspension set up and there is one thing that is confusing me.
Nearly all stuff I have both read (On-Line) and watched (YouTube) say that it is important to set the static (Just weight of motorcycle) sag before doing anything else.
This procedure is:

Raise the front of the bike off the ground, to allow front forks to be fully extended. (Centre stand with a prop under the engine) measure from the top of  the fork leg oil seal to the underside of the bottom yoke. Mine is exactly 150mm fully extended (Now there a coincidence)

Set the bike back on its wheels (Off the stand) and bounce the bike up and down a few times without using the front brake and allow the bike to settle under its own weight and remeasure the distance from the top of the fork leg oil seal to the underside of the bottom yoke again. Deduct this figure from you fully extended measurement and you have static sag. Mine is 126mm giving me 24mm of Static Sag on the front end.

The procedure for the rear of the bike is much the same by getting the weight off the back wheel (Just centre stand will do that ) but you will need to stick a parcel or paper label on the rear seat fairing vertically above the rear wheel axle, measure the fully extended measurement up from the underside of the axle (Sprocket side is easier as no exhaust can in the way) and put a pen mark on the label as a datum point (I used 450 mm)

Set the bike back on its wheels, bounce up and down on the back of the bike a few times just to settle the suspension and allow the bike to come to rest under its own             weight, then measure the distance from the underside of the axle to your datum mark you put on the paper label earlier. Mine is 432mm from the original 450mm measurement giving me 16mm of static sag.

The next procedure is to set the Rider Sag, again this is taken from the full extended suspension measurements. My front forks full extended 150mm as above, my back shocker fully extended (Using datum mark 450mm), now the rider with all his riding gear on, leathers, boots, gloves and bucket sits on the bike bounces a few times, without touching the brakes and the measurements are taken again, this measurement is then deducted from the fully extended measurement and the remainder is your rider sag.

Ideal rider sag, now there seems to be a plethora of opinions on this and I think it could be to do riding style, or whether the bike is used for commuting or for track day events, or maybe just personal preferences. The figures I am going to aim for and that seems to be the most commonly occurring figures for a road bike (spirited riding style) is 40mm front rider sag and 30mm rear rider sag.

Now here is the rub, that which causes me confusion, why do we have to go through the static sag  process at all? Because if the rider sag is not within the measurements we are looking for, we adjust our pre-load to get to those measurements, we have now undone all the static sag setup we went through. All the measurement for Static and Rider Sag are taken from the fully extended measurements.

A couple of mates are very useful when setting up these sag measurements to hold the bike upright without either applying up or down force when the measurements are taken, plus you will be sitting on the bike for rider sag measurements.     

Introduction / FZS 600 suspension upgrade
« on: 29 December 2016, 05:42:28 PM »
Hi Guys,
I have been working on my suspension of late and have done a few significant modifications to both the front and rear ends.
The Rear Modifications:
Firstly I purchased a new Nitron rear shocker, it was built with the correct spring and settings for my riding weight and riding style.
Whilst replacing the shocker I stripped out the linkage and cleaned all the needle bearings and repacked with grease, I was surprised as there was still quite a bit of the original grease still in the bearings, they were showing no sign of wear   :-)

 The Front Modifications:
For the front forks I purchased a pair of YSS Cartridge Emulators from
(YSS Model PD310 for the 2002-2003 FZS 600 Fazer)
To facilitate the operating of the Emulators the Damper Rods need to have more holes drilled through them to overcome the damping effect of them. YSS recommend that 6 X 8mm holes be drilled in them to achieve this.
I went a slightly different route because the damper rods on the 2002-2003 FZS 600 are shorter (190mm) than the earlier Boxeye model (210mm), I was concerned about encroaching on the upper chambers of the forks when the forks are on full compression by drilling the 3 X Double (6) 8 mm holes. 3 X 8 = 24mm, plus 2 X 10 mm minimum spaces between holes = 44mm extension up the damper rods.
(using the centre of the original damper hole as a datum point)
I opted for 2 X Double (4) 10mm holes with one 15mm spacebetween them = 35mm, also to give me a little more lea way I used a fine chain saw file to lower the original 5mm damper hole centre by another 3mm, before drilling the 10 mm holes. 2 X 10mm = 20mm, plus 1 X 15mm space = 35mm, and as I had lowered my starting point by 3 mm, the extension up the damper rods is now 32mm as opposed to 44mm.
The general settings for the YSS Emulators is two full turns in (For lighter (?) togged rider) on the Emulator adjusting screw from initial emulator spring contact with the valve, I set mine to 3 full turns as I am 88-89 Kilos togged ready to ride (14 Stones).
This setting I am fairly happy with although 3.5 turns might have been better coupled with 15 weight Silkoleen Pro Fork oil.
Whilst doing this work I replaced the original Yamaha progressive fork springs with Ohlins 8.5 N/mm linear springs, again more suited to my weight. 
The Outcome:
Firstly I am really pleased with the overall improvement with the bikes handling, I have heard terms like ‘The bike feels more planted’ and ‘I feel more confident cornering now’ and that ‘The bike turns in better now’ and to be honest I think the terms that have been used are accurate.
There is a twisty bumpy lane near me (1/3rd mile Rat Run) that has quite a few holes and uneven surface areas (Not fair to call them Potholes) but it’s a lane that I ride at about 35 - 40 MPH because it shakes the crap out of me and because I know that the bumps and pits are coming up I tend to brace myself ready for them (Wrong, I know) and the bumps travel up the forks and give me stick in wrists, elbows and shoulders and generally p----s me off.
I found myself riding down said lane the other day at about 50 mph thinking to my self could go faster,
Of course I was still feeling the bumps, but, they are not jarring anymore and the bike feels much more stable.
Since then I have taken the bike out on the infamous A272 in Hampshire (Petersfield to Winchester) a sweeping road that is great for biking, (Be warned speed cameras are a regular feature along its length) 
I have noticed that powering hard out of corners the forks tend to feel as if they topping a bit, so I may need to replace some of the fork oil with a higher viscosity oil or is that lower?, to stiffen/slow up the rebound as bit. This should also help with the compression damping and might mean I have no need to adjust the emulator setting by another ½  a turn.
I have 30 weight Silkoleen Pro fork oil on order. I will replace 100ml of the 15 weight with 100ml of 30 and see how that feels, I understand this to be fine tuning.
I feel that this a worthwhile mod and I also feel that it has been a great improvement to the bike, not just the handling but also the comfort.
The only setback is that without purchasing another set of Damper Rods this is an irreversible mod.
There are often sets of Fazer FZS 600 forks on eBay for sale, and if they are bent in some ways so much the better as they will be cheaper. The stanchions usually bend from the point where the stanchion enters the bottom sliders so the damper rods should be unaffected.
There is always a disclaimer with any information or advice:
Anyone doing this mod, especially the front forks does so entirely at their own risk.
I have only put pen to paper (Finger to keyboard) as an information sharing exercise and not as a guide or a recommendation to anyone.
One last thing.
Some say there are better and financially cheaper ways of improving the rear suspension.
There is a member on FOC-U (DevilsYam) that can supply you with a modified R6 mono shock to fit your Fazer and he will set it up for your weight and riding style, he also will supply the necessary dog bones and fitting instruction for considerably less than I paid for my Nitron Mono shock.
You might find you can save yourself a small fortune.
There is nothing wrong with the Nitron but it is pricey.
There is also a serial front suspension moder on here (Kebab19) You can search for his advice on the front fork mods.
I have used his advice in the fork mods that I have done.
I am now looking forward to seeing those 5/8 inch chicken strips on my back tyre slowly diminishing.

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