Date: 21-09-20  Time: 01:38 AM

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Topics - b1k3rdude

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Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Calling all Gen2 owners: 2nd gear issue/s
« on: 15 September 2020, 07:04:30 PM »
Gnasher and I have already chatted at length about this, but I am curious to hear if any other Gen2 owners have have the same issue I am seeing or any other 2nd gear related issues. So here is the history on this -

  • If I change gears gently, roughly a 1/3 of the time it will go into the neutral instead of 2nd
  • If I make a conscious effort to firmly engage 2nd gear, I can feel the foot lever notch twice (so into neutral and then into second)
  • If I give it some welly away from the lights, so far I have found it goes into second no problem (I assume because I am being far less gentle with the foot lever).

  • Gear lever rubber – This is in good condition, with little to no wear
  • Gear lever linkage - There is no slack in the gear lever, it is correctly adjusted for my foot/boot.
  • Clutch lever stack -  It appeared to be correctly adjusted and the span adjustment set for my hand size.
  • Rear drive chain  - It is correctly adjusted.
  • Dirt/Old engine oil - The bike has had a recent oil and filter change.

  • Today I moved the lever down one spline on the the gear change shaft, so that its over adjusted and a little bit too low to deliberately give me more upward movement. I also checked and re-adjusted the clutch lever so it was giving me atleast 3mm on full left/right lock. Then spent a few hours riding around.
  • What I found was it 'mostly' removed the 'going into neutral instead of second'. It did not remove the 'knotch' that I was getting every few gear changes. But then on the way home doing 20mph behind a car, I snicked from 1st into second and sure enough, went into fucking neutral, and it was going so well.

So in addition to my other owners request above, What R1 did the engine for the FZ1 come from? so I can check if owner of that year etc have had issue with 2nd gear etc.

Front page / Yamaha Motorcycles UK: contact number change
« on: 14 September 2020, 04:57:12 PM »
For anyone that is interested Yamaha UK have remove the Surrey number (01932 3580000) from the website. Its now showing an 0203 027 5116 number, and you just get through to the Netherlands where you are not speaking to a technical person.

General / Voulunteering as a Blood biker?
« on: 25 August 2020, 10:35:55 AM »
So flicking through a few of AnyManCam videos, I cam across one where he did a ride out with his step dad who is a Blood Bike rider.

I immediately thought Ive been stuck at home for last few months,  partly due to Covid-19 and being between work contracts and I could potentially do this to help out but there is one obstacle to overcome. And that is that even though I have been riding for 20yrs I would need an Advanced riding qualification, eg IAM Green Badge, RoSPA Advanced, DVSA Enhanced Rider or Police Class 1, any of which must have been RENEWED within last 3 years. 

Does anyone on here do this and if so which of the above course's was the most cost effective?

I am looking to course to buy a FZ1 that possibly used to belong to someone of this forum (which is very cool, as my FZS was bought from and then sold to a forum member). The bike originally had a Akro full system and a PowerCommander5, but these got removed before being sold to the current owner. I would like to talk to the previous owner and find out what other bits were fitted and what work was done on the bike when they had it.

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / FZ1 headers: replaceable coller/clamps..?
« on: 08 August 2020, 11:56:44 AM »
So I am looking at replacement headers on ebay and came across this set, that appears to have removeable collars/clamps -

I checked Fowlers and these don't look removable, so my question is where would we go and buy these from..?

MT Models / Request for data on the MT07/9-Tracer: creation of FAQ
« on: 03 August 2020, 10:19:21 AM »

As I haven't ruled out the Tracer 900 as a replacement for my FZS1000, I figured that I should prolly make a FAQ post for this bike also.


These calipers are fitted to fitted to a lot of Yamaha motorcycles including all the Fazer series. They are easy to work on and are consider one of the best brake calipers types out there. What we have here is a set of calipers that I removed off my reticently sold FZS1000, due to the tops of the pistons having a lot of corrosion.  The plan was to sell them as is but then a set of used stainless pistons came up for sale on the forum, and then this servicing guide was born. What I plan to show in photos is each step in the very simple process of doing a full service on a set of brake calipers. Stripping, cleaning, greasing and reassembly.

Remove the pistons and seals

•  I starting by all the pistons with my piston removable tool. Said tool is a Sealy caliper tool I modified by filling down the tips of the arms to allow the tips/head to clear the caliper body.
•  Then using a blunt/bent flat-head jewelers screwdriver and brake cleaner,  I removed all the seals and soaked them in brake cleaner.•  I also remove the bleed nipples as cleaning fluid and water will get into the calipers and will need to drain etc.

Cleaning the pistons

•  All pistons come with a chrome coating that you really don't want to damage, so avoid using abrasives if at possible. But if you must nothing harsher than 2000 grit emery paper, but you only get to do this so many times before you abrade away the thin chrome coating.
•  Using a small brass brush I removed as much of the crud and corrosion as I could. I found using the piston to hold the pistons, made this job much easier.
•  Then if the corrosion is bad enough, you can polish the pistons with a bench grinder or Dremel with a polishing mop/head. In my case the pistons had lost thier chrome coating on the tops so I didnt go any further with them.

Cleaning the calipers

•  I starting by removing all the seals and soaking them in brake cleaner.• I using a combination of as stiff nylon brush blunt & the jewelers screwdriver I cleaned out the seal grooves. Flushing out with brake cleaner.
• I then sprayed the calipers with motorcycle de-greaser/cleaner, scrubbing them with an old toothbrush.• I then sprayed the calipers with a mixture of green soap and water, again scrubbing with the toothbrush.•  I then rinsed the calipers in hot water and left them to thoroughly dry.•  Once they were dry I then applied a coating of ACF50 with a small painters brush and wiped off the excess with an rag.

Grease and install the seals

•  I smeared a thin coating of Red Rubber grease on all the break/dust seals, taking care to feel/check for any nicks,  damage or wear.•  Then using my index finger I located and held each seal into its respective groove, and then used the index and middle finger to gently push down on the highest point of the seal sticking up allowing the seal to auto-locate itself into the seal.• I did the same thing for the dust seals, with some of these needing a little finagling to get them to seat.

Grease and install the pistons

• I smeared a thin coating of Red Rubber grease on all the pistons. •  Then holding the caliper in my hand and using my thumb & index finger to align the piston/s, I then used the index finger & thumb on my other hand to gently align and push them in.

Grease and install the caliper pins

• I smeared a coating of copper-ease on the pins and installed them along with the r-clips and pad spring/s


 In the winter when there is more shit in the roads, I strongly recommend doing a minor caliper service once a month and it should take no longer than 30-60mins even on a cold day -

•  Remove the caliper pin, spring and pads. Then using an old tooth brush and brake cleaner clean off as much brake dust & crud as possible.
•  Using the toothbrush and brake cleaner again clean the pad-bay of brake dust and crud.
•  Then push pistons out and clean them with a tooth brush and rotate them with the Sealy piston tool. Or using a toothbrush, cable-tie and brake cleaner -
•  then using a small painters brush apply a thin coating of red rubber grease to the pistons before pushing them back.
•  Then reinstall the pads, pin, spring and r-cips.

The Laboratory ! / Youtube video embedding broken:
« on: 21 July 2020, 11:02:25 AM »
Video embedding on the forum seems to be broken. All I get is blank space where the forum is trying to display the video -

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Better Foldable mirrors for yamaha FZ1?
« on: 20 July 2020, 10:37:15 PM »
So saw a 2007/22k FZ1 today and was disappointed with how stiff the mirrors are. And by that I mean for folding in while riding, like I was able to do on the FZS.
So is there a mod for the Gen2 mirrors or will the Gen1 mirrors bolt straight on? as in whate the bolt diameters and spacing measurements?

So following from the FZ1 faq I did I am slowly working through all bullet points that I didn't have any info for at the time, namely the immobiliser that comes with a lot of newer Yamaha's. This system uses an antenna bolted to the ignition barrel that is connected to the ECU, when you place your key (which is coded to the ECU) in the barrel and turn on the ignition the ECU then does a hand-shake with the key allowing you to start the bike. So after a chat with 2 Yamaha dealers and 3x Auto Locksmiths (for motorcycles) I have collected the following info that should help out fellow owners -

Yamaha Dealer response:
  • If you loose one of your spare black/blue (normal) ignition keys - they can provide a blank for £35-30 and can then program it from your red key typically 30mins labour. Although why you would pay a dealer to do something you should be able to do yourself
  • If you loose your red master key but still have one of your black/blue (normal keys) - they wont able to help you. Their response is that you would have to buy a replacement lockset, ECU and immobiliser antenna.
Auto Locksmith response:
  • If you loose one of your spare black/blue (normal) ignition keys - they can provide a blank and program it for £65 for one key or £120 for 2 keys.
  • If you loose your red master key but still have one of your black/blue (normal keys) - they can provide a blank and program it for £65 for one key or £120 for 2 keys.
  • If your ign. barrel gets damaged (when someone tried to steal it) they can provide a replacement barrel and key £65 for key andprice of ign. barrel varies (amazon/ebay etc)
  • If you loose ALL your keys, they can either come out to you and program a set of keys £350-450 or you can bring the ignition barrel (anntena is bolted to it), the petrol lock, seat lock and ECU and they will cut and program a set of keys for £200. Bey aware this process takes upto 5hrs.
Programming your own spare key:
  • Insert RED MASTER key, turn on, start engine, stop and remove key.
  • Immobilizer light will start after 30 seconds
  • Reinsert MASTER key, turn ignition on, then off, remove MASTER and insert NEW key within 5 seconds and switch on ignition.
  • Remove NEW key, then re-insert and switch on, new key will enable immobilizer off and start engine.
  • Video of this above -
Misc info:
  • The Yamaha YISS isn't full proof, as it can be bypassed with a modify sub-loom that can be plugged into the main-loom bypassing the immobilisation function completely. Its always a good idea to have an alarm on the bike also -
  • The immobiliser emulators being sold on sites like ebay are technically illegal, yet ebay isnt doing f*ck all about them.
  • Beyond 2009 the morick system (yiss ) software/chipset was changed - and this can cause compatibility problems for the programming software that locksmiths use.
  • When programming your own spare key from the red master, you can only have one spare. If you want more than one spare, then its a trip to an Autolocksmith or your local yam dealer.

Found this on ebay -

Ive spoken to the seller, essentially what you have is a 2006 with 22k on the clock that needs a replacement frame for 2k. Basically the insurance company were a bunch of fucking idiots, that mistook flaking paint for a fault with the main frame and just wrote it off for no sane logical reason.

The guy I spoke to said a few dealers in Europe have already been in contact with him, so you guys better move quickly. If I had somewhere to do the frame swap I would have bought it this evening.

If I type a sentence and then press return 2x
and then start typing on the second line, the forum is removing space between the two lines

So i have to press return three times, creating to 2 space between sentences, yet once submitted the post is only showing one space instead of two.

So someone suggested this to me and I was like, as I have done an front-fairing conversion on an FZS600 in the past Im thinking the N-to-S should also be possible.
So parts off the top of my head -
  • Front fairing - 3C3-Y283G-0P-P4 (black metalic)
  • Windscreen - 3C3-28381-00
  • Mirrors - 3C3-26290-10/3C3-26280-10
  • Sub-frame - 5D0-28356-00
  • Headlight - 3C3-84310-10
  • subloom - 5D0-84359-00
  • Infills - 3C3-2836L-00/3C3-2836K-00
  • infill brackets - (left-3C3-2836A-00/3C3-2834F-00) & (right-3C3-2836A-00/3C3-2835U-00)
The clocks look identical (FZ1-S - 2D18350050, FZ1-N - 22C-83500-10), so I will assume can be retained and mounted to the FZ1-S sub-frame with the relevant hardware.

For Sale & Wanted / FOR SALE: FZS1000 parts and accessories!
« on: 03 July 2020, 03:51:15 PM »
 I have the following list of items for sale, pictures for which can be found here -


  • Clutch basket, hub & Springs - £75
  • Oil cooler and water pipe - £20
  • Complete set of inlets rubbers & vacuum caps  - £50
  • Powder coated rear brake torque arm - £25
  • AIS block off kit with air box caps - £50
  • AIS block off kit kit - £40
  • Genuine brand new timing cover and genuine gasket - £75
  • Powder coated cam cover and genuine gasket - £100
  • Pair of blue-spot brake calipers in good condition, w/stainless-steel pistons, fully serviced - £130
  • Riders foot peg bracket & gear lever - £50
  • Bar ends x3 - £30Fork tops - £50
  • Dog bones polished (130mm) - £30
  • Dog bones original (130mm) -  £10
  • OEM frame Plugs/Endcaps - £10
  • 7x span adjustable brake & clutch levers - £5 each or £30 for the lot
  • Powder coated rear brake torque arm - £25
  • Brand new & unopened Slinky-Glide throttle cables (pair) - £20
  • user OEM shock in very good cond, with 15k on - £50
  • Front fairing subframe (with all rubbers) - £75
  • Right hand side front infill - £30
  • Right hand under seat side cover - £25
  • Right hand side front fairing bracket - £20
  • Genuine Tool pouch strap - £5
  • 2x original right hand mirrors - £35 each
  • 1x original left hand mirror £35
  • Pair of grab rails in DPBMC blue, l/h side has damage but mechanically sound - £75
  • Front sub-loom - £30
  • 2x Foxeye headlight units - £75 each
  • Complete set of unopened EBC front & rear, brake pads - £50
  • Set of unopened front wheel bearings - £15
  • Sprocket carrier bearing and dust seals - £15
  • Genuine unopened oil filter and tool - £20
  • Replacement fuel filter - £5
  • Brand new real Carbon-fibre tank protector - £50
  • Genuine Yamaha workshop manual - £45
  • One side of a genuine yamaha crash protector kit – £25 – can be used as a template to create more.
  • Abus 3000 underseat u-lock shackle designed to go under the FZS1000 seat - £50

For Sale & Wanted / Wanted: FZ1 with ABS
« on: 30 June 2020, 06:10:05 PM »
Am looking for an FZ1-S (faired) w/ABS, these seem to be a bit thin on the ground and only stealers with the ridiculous prices seem to have any. I would like if it at all possible to find a bike thats mostly black so -
  • engine
  • frame
  • wheels
I know these don't come up very often, but if you don't ask you don't get

Was doing a search for a fellow foccer when I came across this little gem. We have a chancer trying to sell an old style FZ1 rotor as coming off a 2009 model, when afaik this style of rotor was only ever fitted to the 2006/2007 models. Imho this should only be bought as an emergency spare if at all.


So following on my very old Clutch squeelling thread, does anyone know if the clutch basket on the FZ1 has been updated to provide better oil flow to the friction plates..?

General / AndyManCam: quite entertaining
« on: 29 June 2020, 11:52:46 AM »
So I have been going through his FZ1 videos and then came across a colab vlog with TeaPot1, very amusing -

General / Healtech Thunderbox: De-clutter your battery terminals.
« on: 29 June 2020, 10:48:58 AM »
The issue of connecting lots of electrical items to the bike has effected all of us at one point other another, and when there is more than 2 its becomes a mess of ring terminals around the battery. Enter the Healtch Thunderbox, and here is a video explaining in detail -

AndyManCam fitting -


What is it?

The FZ1-S & FZ1-N Gen2 Fazer was released in 2006/2007 as the bigger sibling to the FZ6 and shared the same design brief, sports bike engine in a cast alloy chassis with the everyday rider in mind when it came to practicalities such as riding position & center stand etc. The engine in the Gen2 is the Fuel injected 2002 R1 engine with some modifications to tame the power delivery and focus more on mid-range and torque. The chassis is heavier and longer than the R1 taming the handling to match the road going bias of the bike. Where the FZ1 loses out to the FZS is comfort and tank range. And for Yamaha, what should have been a masterstroke quickly descended into a bit of a nightmare…


•    Engine: 998cc, 20v, DOHC liquid-cooled inline four
•    Power: 148bhp @ 11,000rpm
•    Torque: 78.2ftlb @ 8000rpm
•    Weight: 200Kg (dry)
•    Seat Height 815mm/32”
•    Wheelbase: 1460
•    Tank size: 18 liters
•    Tyres: 120/70-ZR17 and 190/50-ZR17

Which one should I buy?

•    It’s a fantastic bike but early models (2006/2007) have several issues(see below). A lot if not all of these issues were rectified by Yamaha after 2010. The 2010 models feature an all-black exhaust end can (the previous generations have a silver tip and heat shield.
•    Get up close to the frame and check the main weld seam under the fuel tank. There are have been a lot of reports of cracking on the 2006/2007 model. There was never official recall for this, which is insulting at best or dangerous at worst.
•    Second on the list is if the previous owner has sorted the fuelling. A ECU remap or Power Commander and race pipe is always a good sign and certainly improves the bike’s snatchy throttle response. But on 2010 and above model Yamaha finally fixed the bloody issue. Will need to check if 2010+ owners needed to fit a Power-Commander or not.
•    Be wary of owners who go too far as the FZ1 especially is often modified with new bars (Renthals are popular) tail tidies and cosmetic alterations. If the bike has been changed from standard always check the quality of the workmanship as hacked wiring looms and replacement bars that hit the tank are not ideal!
•    Always inspect the suspension linkages as they are prone to seizing and by now the suspension units themselves will probably be needed a rebuild or refresh, so look for any weeps and check their damping by bouncing the bike up and down.
•    The Yamaha immobiliser system requires a 'red master’ key to create normal copies and without this master you are potentially looking at a new ECU, lock set & immobiliser. So when buying an FZ1 always check its included in the sale. But should you loose the red master please see the following thread -
•    Prices from £2500 at the lower end, but up your budget to £3500 and you should secure a very tidy example of an early generation. The FZ1 and FZ1 Fazer go for roughly the same price and both are plentiful in the used market. If you want a final generation (black exhaust) expect to pay around £4200 to £5000 depending on mileage and condition with late model bikes going for £6500. But at that price point you can get a 2016/2017 Kawasaki Z1000SX, with traction control and LED headlights.•    This model was sold from 2006-2012 so be aware that some some cheeky dealers are trying to palm-off late 2012 models that were registered late as 2015 artificially inflating the price.

What should I look out for?

•  2006/2007 models have had reports of cracked main and sub frames. In a nutshell the welds are just failing and Yamaha never issued a recall of any kind for this. If a bike has this issue the sensible decision is to walk away. That said frame can be found online, so you can get the bike cheap and have the skills you could do a frame swap.
•  2006/2007 models of FZ1 and FZ1 Fazer were plagued with a poor throttle response, so much so that Yamaha sneaked a quick update out for 2007 that comprised of a new ECU with an updated fuel map within it. While slightly better, it was far from perfect and it wasn’t until 2010 that they finally got it right.
•  2006/2007 models have had reports of the rotor failing, what seems to cause the rotor to fail is the poor adhesion of the magnet segments, once they start moving this crates imbalance, it's this imbalance that causes the rear bearing (93306-20230) behind the idler sprocket (5VY-15517-00) and the front bearing (93306-20124)to fail. Its precisely because the design of the rotor/magnet on the 2006/2007 was so poor that Yamaha started selling the superseded/update version on the quiet with no announcement what so ever! When what they should have been doing, is issuing a recall on that fucking part and/or offering free swap for anyone who wanted it. The job only takes a home mechanic 30-45mins to do, let alone a trained mechanic. There are bunch of videos on youtube on howto swap-out the flywheel/rotor. Quality replacement rotors/stator are available from MotoElectrical here.
•  A common issue with FZ1's is the headers corroding, the studs, nuts and flanges are made of low quality steel which starts rusting the instant the bike roles of the forecourt. So you either find abike with header nuts are still removable and copaslip them. Or find a bike where the stud/nuts have been replaced with stainless
•  CHANGING GEAR - from 1st to 2nd, the bike will go into neutral instead of 2nd. This happens below 3k rpm which equates to 20mph and when the engine is upto temp. I have personally test ridden 3x FZ1's, (1x2009/13k, 2x 2007/22k&15k) the 09 and one (15k) of the 07's had this issue.
•  There is the occasional reports of an ignition coil/s dying or regulator/rectifier needing replacing.
•  The riders seat is like a plank of wood, and it’s the first thing most owners replace. This seems to be par for the course with new bikes these days.
•  Less midrange torque/power than the Gen1 FZS, can be mitigates by getting a remap done? ( need to confirm with a tuning shop)

Things that will brake in a smash.

•    Just like the gen1 FZS, the sub-frame and headlight wont survive if any part of the front gets a hard enough side impact. And by that I mean the sub-frame (what the headlight & whole front fairing mounts too) gets tweaked and so things don't line up perfectly anymore. And some or all of the headlight mounts get snapped off. So like I and other owners did for the gen1 FZS, find and buy some spare - levers, mirrors, indicators, infill panels, a sub-frame, a headlamp 
•    The front foot-peg bracket its mounted to tabs that are part of the frame, just like the Gen1 FZS. But the tabs on the Gen2 are cast as part of the frame, so if you done have enough side protection(like the guy in the video) and drop the bike on the side hard enough those tabs will get snapped clean off (see this video - unlike the steel ones on the Gen1 which would just bend a little if at all. I have smashed 2x Gen1 FZS's and each time the foot-peg brake bent or snapped, the tab welded to the frame was fine in both instances. how ever all modern bikes have cast alloy frames these days 
•    The handle bars look stronger than the ones of the gen1 FZS (which were like chocolate and would just bend into the tank fyi). If hit hard enough and at the right/wrong angle I imagine these will bend also.
What upgrades / modifications should I consider?

Engine / Tuning

Stock ECU remap -
  • Make sure tuner knows to keep that the stock diags in-place a
  • Ask for the cooling fan cut-in temp-point to be reduced reduced (several owners have reported its only cutting in at over 100-104c)
  • make sure the FC at 5k rpm is addressed/removed, this also commonly know as the fuel cut point in the rpm range
  • If your going for a full tune you may also want to also get the following items disable in the Ecu - Exhaust valve, O2 sensor & AIS/pair valve - for some of these you will need the appropriate blanking plugs etc - I need to do more research to confirm.
  • you have your ignition unification setting set to 3rd gear and above, this give you better advance timing in the lower gears.
  • the tuner should look at the secondary throttle butterfly, so either smooth out the dyno curce or give you more responsive throttle in the lower gears     
Power commander -       
  • If you want to go the extra mile having a PC in-place before you get your ECU re0flash makes the tuners job much easier, asw its a live flash system. This should in theory save you some money - so ask your preferred tuner before you visit/him/her.
  • Having a PC means you don't need a physical O2 sensor eliminator, you just unplug the sensor and disable it in the PC
Here is a good video that encapsulates most of the above -

•    There are loads of choices out there, but a lot of owners of the Gen1 like to fit a MIVV. But AndymanCam fitted a Speedproducts Cobra SPX, pricey but looks the business.

Suspension / Handling
•    For a start the suspension is firm but harsh and poorly controlled. So will new owners will need to set up the suspension for their weight and riding style.

Chain & Sprockets
•    Some owners have complained about the tall gearing, so you have the option of playing around with different front/rear sprocket sizes (17/45 - Stock gearing) to suite your need. Some info for now can be found here

•    The brakes are the same blue spot calipers (with different mount points) as found on the gen FZS. So like the FZS, just replace with braided. However if you have an ABS enabled bike bleeding the brakes after the hose is going to be a right pain in the arse, and you may have to employ the old cable-tie the lever back to the bar trick - see here.

•    Renthal's are popular

Clutch lever
•   If like me you have medium sized hands you may want to install a span-adjustable levers. The FZ1 has the same useless cable-based clutch that the FZS had, which has clutch biting point foibles.

•    They need to be fold-able like the ones on the FZS - I need to check and confirm.

AIS removal
•    Like the gen1, the AIS system on the FZ1 can be completely removed and there are kits available for this. But I need to do more research on how this effect the fuel injection system.

Are there any Gen2 specific service items or issues I should be aware of?

Fueling issues
•    A few owners on here don't believe the fueling was that bad for most normal riding. The complaints were more centered around the 'fuel cut off' which occurs after 5000rpm. If you come off the throttle above that rev range the bike completely shuts off the injectors then when you get back on it there is a noticeable delay before the power comes back which is really annoying and frankly quote dangerous mid bend etc. The 2010 on models have much better fueling, but not having test ridden one yet I cant say for sure.

Generator rotor issue on 20062007 models
•    3rd party replacements for the rotor, stator and also the reg/rec can be found  here. I've spoken to the Uk distibutor and on all first time purchases customer get 10% off..!!!

Rear suspension
•    Always inspect the suspension linkages as they are prone to seizing and by now the suspension units themselves will probably be needed a rebuild or refresh, so look for any weeps and check their damping by bouncing the bike up and down.
•    Front forks - tbc
•    EXUP Valve - Like its older sibling, the Gen2 also has an exhaust valve. Research as to what it does compared the older bike and how to maintain it I need to confirm tbc. From what I have read so thus far the valve play a part in the fuelling of the bike, but every 3rd party eend-can removes it completly. It doesn’t help I can’t find the part on Fowlers parts page.

Valve Clearances
•    If you are planning on checking the valve clearances yourself (24,000 mile intervals) a service manual such as those from Haynes & Clymer is always recommended.

Service intervals
•    minor every 4k/1yr, major every 8k/2 yrs, valve clearance every 24k.

Coil sticks & starter solenoid
•    There are reports of ignition sticks (integrated coil & plug cap) failing, but is not uncommon for any motorcycle with these. These can be found on MandP for £35(compared to the £128 for genuine) There have also been reports of the starter solenoid failing, 3rd party version can be found on MotoElectrical for £20.

Changing spark plugs
•    To get to the coil sticks or the plugs you have to unbolt the radiator keeping the hoses attached, this give you clearance you to reach in and pull the coil sticks out and gain access to the plugs.

Ignition Keys
•    The Yamaha immobilizer system requires a red ‘master’ key to create black copies and without this key you are looking at a new ECU and lock set and a massive bill should you lose your keys so always check it is included in the sale.

Electrical connectors
•    Given the age of the bike it is worthwhile going through all of the electrical connector blocks on the bike checking for corrosion and making repairs where necessary. An electrical contact cleaner spray can be used to de-grease and clean both the inside & outside of the blocks, the outside of the blocks should be treated sparingly with a product that will repel water and prevent corrosion such as dielectric grease or ACF50. Particular attention should be given to both the larger connectors below left hand-side subframe where the regulator/rectifier resides.

Tachometer Codes
•    tbc

Oil Level Light
•    tbc

Front Suspension Compression Damping Adjusters
•    tbc   

Fairing Infills & panels
•    tbc

•    Other than this, its basically consumables and crash damage and checking for any warning lights on the dash that might indicate a sensor has packed up.
•    Yamaha changed/updated the immobilizer system from 2009 on.

Notes on imported bikes:
•    TBC

Where Can I Find More Information About the Gen2 Fazer 1000?

•    Our American cousins have some useful resources on their Fz1a Owners site - here
•    If you bought a bike without it you can download the manual - here
•    Review from a 2006 owner here - link


I know this seems like a bizarre request, but I live in a block of flats and need something to lock my other bikes too. The reason for needing a bike so old is that 40yr old bike dont require an MOT, the tax amount is £0 and ins premium is negligible.

The bigger and heaver the bike the better, but within reason nothing over 250kg please. The bike dosen't have to be running, just been complete qand pushable (so the DVLA cant argue its been dumped as it can technically be a long term restore etc.)


For Sale & Wanted / SOLD: 2005, FZS1000 - SOLD
« on: 22 January 2020, 08:02:40 AM »
Like the bandit the Fazer has been cleaned, mot'd and made ready for sale. The bike is in good condition for age and has 35k on the clock, it was my sunny day weekend fun machine bike but am looking to upgrade. The bike comes with the following accessories -
  • Full Ivans kit install by our own Mike/Falcon - Dyno'd @133Bhp at the rear wheel.
  • Devilsyam R6 shock, w/10k on.
  • Genuine Yamaha colour coded Belly pan
  • Genuine Yamaha colour coded rear hugger.
  • Double bubble dark screen.
  • Matching span & length adjustable clutch and gear levers - (these are special in that they will also fold and NOT snap in the event of a drop)
  • Meta TV2 immobiliser alarm with keyfob and spare fob.
  • Oxford Heated grips.
  • Bike-it indicators with indy spacers.
  • Blind spot mirror on r/h mirror pod.
  • Front fender extender.
  • Front braided brake hoses.
  • LED spotlights - these make a massive improvement to the night-time viability.
  • LED headlight bulbs - same benefit as above
  • LED indicator bulbs.
  • LED rear light bulbs.
  • LED instrument cluster bulbs
  • R&G crash boddins - these are the large type, wont bend or snap.
  • R&G front fork and swing arm sliders.
  • Akrapovic titanium end can.
  • Braided front & rear hoses.
  • Stainless steel Rad guard
  • Titanium rear Sprocket, Rear Axel nuts
  • Titanium exup exhaust valve bolts - (as well all know the stock bolts are a joke).
  • Haynes manual.
  • Handlebar risers.
The tyres are practically brand new and the  chain & sprockets were fitting not that long ago..

I'm looking for £3k which is a fair price considering all the extra's it has (pretty much most of the addon's/accessories owners put on this bike). And the bike is better condition than all the ones on Autotrader atm.

For Sale & Wanted / SOLD: 2006 GSF1200 K8 :SOLD
« on: 20 January 2020, 02:20:11 PM »
Finally got around the getting the bike cleaned, mot'd and ready for sale. The bike is good condition for age and has 40k on the clock, so the engine is old & noisy but bulletproof. The bike was my daily commuter till I upgraded and it comes with the following accessories -

# Heated grips.
# Old oxford handlebar muffs.
# LED spotlights - these make a massive improvement to the night-time viability.
# R&G crash boddins - these are the large type, wont bend or snap.
# Full stainless exhaust system - easier to clean and should last the life of the bike.
# Braided front & rear hoses.
# Rad guard of a Mk1 1200.
# Small disk lock.
# Haynes manual.

The tyres, chain & sprockets have load of life left in them. And the front discs were replaced not that long ago and rear/front pads were done at the MOT. And I have fitted new riders foot pegs and gear lever.

I'm looking for £2k which is a fair price and mine is better condition than all the ones I have seen on Autotrader.

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