Date: 15-10-18  Time: 20:51 PM

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Messages - darrsi

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1
FZS600 Fazer / Re: gear link rod ends
« on: Today at 07:54:14 PM »
Meaning i've never lubed it before.

2
FZS600 Fazer / Re: gear link rod ends
« on: Today at 07:53:26 PM »
I ride all year round and had the bike 10 years, never had any issue with that balljoint before.

3
FZS600 Fazer / Re: gear link rod ends
« on: Today at 06:44:43 AM »
Is it definitely that?
Could it be that the clutch cable needs adjusting properly at both ends, or the bearings in the clutch housing cover need a good lubing, 'cos i know from experience that they can dry out?

4
FZS600 Fazer / Re: sorry to ask this question guys
« on: 14 October 2018, 10:08:50 AM »
A lot of vibrations can be cured very easily with soft sided velcro.


In the past i've used it on the fairing shield, fairing infill trays and also used it to reinforce plastics that have started to crack due to age like the triangular panels that sit just under the seat on both sides.
It has a very strong sticky side that doesn't budge and is very inconspicuous.


Double check your engine mounting bolts are correctly tightened, and not cracked at all as this can be a major cause for extra vibes, and make sure your centre stand and exhaust aren't rattling away on each other.


As mentioned, indicators as well as wing mirror glass have been known to be culprits in the past as well.

5
General / Re: Must be getting old.......don't ban me. !!!
« on: 12 October 2018, 09:58:52 PM »
60 miles, then 4hrs charge.......no thanks!

6
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Brake Calipers
« on: 08 October 2018, 06:44:24 AM »
Thnkx daviee, I know the 1000 fits, question was if any [size=78%]manufacturers other than Yamaha had the same rear calliper dimensions as the 600 -  asked on notion that , like carbon bicycle manufacture, there are not scores of factories making calipers, so it’s likely any one factory will make them for several brands ...so say for example circa 96 onwards ‘maybe’ Suzuki/ Honda etc used a rear calliper that would fit.......or maybe not. It’s just a curiosity. [/size]


Little bit of TLC and red rubber grease once or twice a year and the original rear caliper works just fine.


Forgot to mention, i tend to use SBS Ceramic pads on the rear these days which help in keeping the brake dust down which is a big cause of seizing if not maintained regularly.
Organic pads for example would be the softest pads so would be very gentle on the disc but kick out the most dust.

7
FZS600 Fazer / Re: What have you done to your FZS600 bike today
« on: 06 October 2018, 11:57:06 PM »
Cleaned the sludge out from under the chain guard to stop it dripping back down and around the wheel, oiled the chain, then finally got round to making a proper top layer of foam for my seat:


Up next, a cover, to replace the bin bags I've been sitting on since February or so!


What d'ya call that then, a Kim Kardashian seat?

8
General / Re: Insurance
« on: 06 October 2018, 01:52:18 PM »
I always declare my exhaust, but specify it's not some sort of mega power booster, it's just not the original.


how many car insurers ask the same thing? All of them do but how many people tell their insurance company that they replaced the back box of their exhaust with one from quick-shit? None. As it makes no real difference just like on a bike it makes no real difference but on bikes we get shafted for it.


That's just insurance all over though, modern day Dick Turpin's.

9
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Brake Calipers
« on: 06 October 2018, 10:34:04 AM »
Thnkx daviee, I know the 1000 fits, question was if any [size=78%]manufacturers other than Yamaha had the same rear calliper dimensions as the 600 -  asked on notion that , like carbon bicycle manufacture, there are not scores of factories making calipers, so it’s likely any one factory will make them for several brands ...so say for example circa 96 onwards ‘maybe’ Suzuki/ Honda etc used a rear calliper that would fit.......or maybe not. It’s just a curiosity. [/size]


Little bit of TLC and red rubber grease once or twice a year and the original rear caliper works just fine.

10
General / Re: Plastic waste in seas/oceans
« on: 06 October 2018, 10:11:55 AM »
My guvnor ordered me 150 antenna's for our transmitter kits last week, imagine plastic aerials about 4" long about the width of a pencil.
Now you'd think they'd come loose in a Jiffy bag or the like, but no, this dirty great box arrived then once opened there were several more cardboard boxes inside.
Not even guessing what was inside i opened up one of the smaller cardboard boxes then found 10 x 5" square silver plastic bags with ONE aerial each inside.
This is a non perishable item that not only would be fine to lob in a Jiffy bag, but surely it would lower production costs and also labour to cut out all the extra baggage? 

11
General / Re: Insurance
« on: 06 October 2018, 09:54:30 AM »
You know when they ask if the bikes got any modifications, to be on the safe side is there a need to tell them about anything and everything, Hell lines, frame sliders that sort of thing and does that tend to increase premiums?


There are one or two firms about that are realistic about things and respect the fact that some mods benefit the rider and won't hurt the bike or increase power in any way.
But i remember looking on one site a few years back and they listed things that were just ridiculous and every box ticked bumped up the price.
The one that really stuck in my mind was decals/stickers, that to me is just taking the piss.
I always declare my exhaust, but specify it's not some sort of mega power booster, it's just not the original.

12
General / Re: Insurance
« on: 05 October 2018, 07:03:38 AM »
Have a look around as early as you can, don't leave it too late otherwise they know they've got you by the nuts because they know you really need to get insured asap.
Just been through all this after helping an Italian work colleague, he left everything too late plus i then had to talk on the phone for him due to a language barrier which i hate doing with insurance people, just because it never stated anywhere that he could carry a pillion.
Good job i checked too as they had to add it on to his policy, even though it was for no extra cost?
He had recently moved nearer to our workplace and his policy went from £140 to averaging around £480, and i could still only get it down to £380 after a lot of faffing about and online searches.


And a day before we sorted that out he decides to tell me his MOT ran out a week ago as well  :rolleyes
A quick phone call and i managed to get him an MOT the next day too at my bike shop and his bike fortunately passed.

13
General / Re: Fixie Bikes
« on: 03 October 2018, 06:43:54 AM »
They're illegal to use on the road, or anywhere off track anyway, highlighted when that young arrogant shit killed that woman and got banged up for it.

14
FZS600 Fazer / Re: exhaust headers gasket
« on: 26 September 2018, 11:47:44 AM »

Are you sure previous gaskets were removed and the mating surface at the cylinder head was clean?
A dab of grease is useful for keeping the new gaskets in place while you wriggle the new downpipes into position.
What make are the downpipes? A lot of people have had issues with the fit of Delkevik pipes in the past. Tightening up the nuts at the top end first should pull the pipes into the correct position (support the weight at the far end of the collector while you do this). If the bracket at the bottom doesn’t line up neatly with the fixing hole on the footpeg bracket it’ll put a lot of strain on the header which can result in leaks, particularly if the footpeg bolt is tightened up before the header clamps.

That's a valid point, when I got my bike and first changed the gaskets there were two sets in there causing an air leak.
The fact they're a bit of a bugger to get out is probably why the previous owner didn't try harder to remove them.

15
FZS600 Fazer / Re: exhaust headers gasket
« on: 26 September 2018, 11:09:44 AM »
They can become a bit loose due to them being crush washers, and also because of the weight of the exhaust moving them about a bit.
I recently changed mine and put a smearing of gasket sealer around them as well, although it's not probably even needed.
Best thing to do is check the torque levels are correct every few days, for a couple of weeks, after riding then they'll eventually settle down.

16
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Whizzing Sound Coming From Engine
« on: 24 September 2018, 07:05:31 PM »
The two lugs that stick out the side of the sensor need to be located properly into the slots of the inner wheel before putting the wheel back onto the forks.
The sensor housing also needs to slide into a notch up the inside of the forks as well making it a bit of a fiddly job. Once you've done it a couple of times and everything is apparent then it will become easier to do in time.
To keep the sensor and housing in place i normally pack the area with thick lithium grease because it is a constantly moving part, which i will also use on the spindle as well after giving it a good clean up.   


Be warned though, if you don't line those lugs up correctly then you will be back to square one and ordering another sensor because as soon as you tighten the spindle nut up you will hear the lugs crack.
I did it the very first time i put the front wheel back on, but it's a mistake that you very quickly learn not to do again.


One of these will last you forever   https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Granville-Multi-Purpose-LM2-Lithium-Grease-Car-Wheel-Bearings-Joints-etc-500g/372222336729?hash=item56aa2e1ed9:g:VYoAAOSwW6xahFGi


Thanks for the tips and heads up about the grease, how many rotor sensors are there on the bike? is it just one on the front wheel or is there 2 of them on the front wheel?


Had my front wheel off on Saturday to get a new tyre fitted.
Shoving loads of grease around where the sensor sits also helps keep the sensor housing in place when lining it up to put the wheel back on.


17
FZS600 Fazer / Re: What have you done to your FZS600 bike today
« on: 22 September 2018, 12:16:00 PM »
New PR3 on the front.
£84 from Oponeo and £20 to fit.
Think it's the first time i can ever remember me having the same brand of tyres on front and rear in over 30 years of riding, i have a PR4 on the rear, so close enough.  :lol
They are very hairy aren't they. Week end = scrubbing in =  :) :) :)


Nah, it's pissing down here.......i'm sure you'll understand.  :lol

18
FZS600 Fazer / Re: What have you done to your FZS600 bike today
« on: 22 September 2018, 11:37:26 AM »
New PR3 on the front.
£84 from Oponeo and £20 to fit.
Think it's the first time i can ever remember me having the same brand of tyres on front and rear in over 30 years of riding, i have a PR4 on the rear, so close enough.  :lol

19
General / Re: Today's "What Gets My Goat"
« on: 21 September 2018, 11:12:56 PM »
Quote
If the story is actually fabricated then yep I've fallen for it hook, line and sinker.
Well it seems to have sunk as a story.  And I suspect if there is any truth in it, it’s out of context.  So no I don’t believe it for one minute. 



Don’t believe all you read in the press. :\


So who do we believe then.....you?

20
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Whizzing Sound Coming From Engine
« on: 21 September 2018, 12:01:53 PM »
So these rotas, should I be removing mine and re-greasing after 20 years.


Should be done every time the wheel's removed, just pack the area full of heavy grease.
I'd say 20 years is probably a good time to start too.  :lol

21
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Whizzing Sound Coming From Engine
« on: 21 September 2018, 06:11:09 AM »
The two lugs that stick out the side of the sensor need to be located properly into the slots of the inner wheel before putting the wheel back onto the forks.
The sensor housing also needs to slide into a notch up the inside of the forks as well making it a bit of a fiddly job. Once you've done it a couple of times and everything is apparent then it will become easier to do in time.
To keep the sensor and housing in place i normally pack the area with thick lithium grease because it is a constantly moving part, which i will also use on the spindle as well after giving it a good clean up.   


Be warned though, if you don't line those lugs up correctly then you will be back to square one and ordering another sensor because as soon as you tighten the spindle nut up you will hear the lugs crack.
I did it the very first time i put the front wheel back on, but it's a mistake that you very quickly learn not to do again.


One of these will last you forever   https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Granville-Multi-Purpose-LM2-Lithium-Grease-Car-Wheel-Bearings-Joints-etc-500g/372222336729?hash=item56aa2e1ed9:g:VYoAAOSwW6xahFGi




22
General / Re: What did you do with whatever else you've got?
« on: 19 September 2018, 09:58:55 PM »
Not got one.....but would very much like one!


https://youtu.be/DPGDAZyQ44k

23
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Tank Pad Grip
« on: 19 September 2018, 06:52:22 PM »
I was under the impression it was stickers used by the knees for better grip on the tank.


I’m really impressed by the tank cover i have on mine, nice bulked up padded feel on the knees, much warmer during the cold weather on the legs, plus it looks good too.

24
General / Re: Today's "What Gets My Goat"
« on: 19 September 2018, 06:36:45 AM »
When 2 people being interviewed on a news or discussion programme, and 1 of them continually interrupts and shouts down the other person, totally ignorant and ill mannered.


What I find worse is when the interviewer doesn't let an interviewee get a word in edgeways, often seemingly because what they try to say doesn't fit with a program or channel's own agenda. If you won't let them speak, don't invite them on in the first place.


Three culprits come to mind. Two from the BBC's Newsnight: Emily 'indignant' Maitless*, and Evan 'hysterical' Davis. And Jon 'high and mighty' Snow from Ch.4 news.


*which autocorrect always wants to change to Meritless - the one time I think it's right  :lol


If i could just interrupt you right there.........Kay Burley seemed to be a specialist at that.

25
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Whizzing Sound Coming From Engine
« on: 19 September 2018, 06:19:34 AM »
Something else to consider, when the carbs were balanced how old/what condition was your air filter in?
It's quite important that the air filter is freely breathing otherwise the balancing process can give a false reading.


And do that TPS check, it only takes a minute to do and it's very possible that could be the problem too, especially with no known history of the replacement carbs.


 http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,22722.msg262253.html#msg262253



Hi mate, thank you for all your responses so far, I really appreciate it, I have a question about the TPS, if there was an issue with my TPS would there not be an issue with my throttle at all? Because my throttle is perfect to be honest, I have never had an issue with the throttle at all, however I don't really know about this kinda of stuff so please let me know. thanks in advance.



They tend to break down gradually rather than just stop working completely, which is why it can go unnoticed for a while.
Idle can be a little unstable, but it's most noticeable at lower speeds around 2500rpm when you'll need to use the clutch more than normal as the bike can feel a bit jerky to control.
Once you open the throttle right up it's not as bad but will still be wrong.
It's one of those things that creep up on you, and only when it's corrected will you then realize how wrong it was before.


The link i posted above explains how to check it, and what the codes mean.


The TPS is the black gadget that is wired on the right side of the carbs.   


To check it only takes about a minute to do. If you pull the plastic protective cover back towards the left you'll see better where the catch is that needs releasing to unclip it.


Just carefully separate the two parts then turn the ignition key on (don't start the bike).


The RPM needle will go back and forth from 0rpm to 3000rpm. This is showing either a totally faulty TPS.......or......it's unplugged.


Then with the ignition still switched on, just plug the two parts of the TPS back together........and see where the RPM needle goes this time.


5000rpm is the correct position.


If the needle stays on 0rpm or 10,000rpm then the TPS needs adjusting slightly to move the position of the needle back to 5000rpm.




Actually, just click on the above link, it's a bit more detailed, and let us know what you find.


Another useful link here as well     http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=91.0



So basically (sorry to have to dull it down for myself) if the RPM needle goes to 3000rpm at any point during this check, it's a fault code? I don't need no fancy diagnostic machine? The bikes RPM needle will go to 3000rpm if the TPS needs replacing?


If once I put it back together (with ignition still on) and it stays on 0rpm or goes to 10,000rpm it just adjusting?


and if it just goes to 5000rpm, it's fine?


Is that the basic dulled down version?  :lol



3000rpm is unplugged, or TOTALLY knackered


5000rpm is good


0rpm or 10,000rpm needs adjusting........but is a sign it's possibly starting to fail.
So adjust it then keep checking it every other day and see if it has stayed in the 5000rpm position.....if it has moved again then time to replace.


Hopefully it will be on the 5000rpm position and a couple of minutes later you can forget about all this.


If you do think it may be faulty and needs replacing, BUY A NEW ONE. Do not buy a used one, it will just fail on you as well. I bought 2 used ones and they both failed, which is why i know the symptoms so well, but once i bought a brand new one everything has been fine.


This is as cheap as they get if you do need one.  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS-600-H-Fazer-2000-Tourmax-Throttle-Position-Sensor/301948941019?epid=647315499&hash=item464d8f32db:g:5hIAAOSwO~VahGo9




IMPORTANT TIP: If your needle does sit on 10,000rpm DO NOT SWITCH THE KEY TO THE OFF POSITION. Either leave it on, or start the engine and it will reset itself correctly.
What happens is that simple gravity makes the RPM needle fall to the right side of the clock, instead of the left, so the needle will just sit on the wrong side of the pin near 0rpm trying to turn clockwise, but obviously can't.
If this happens you'll need to take the plastic shield off the fairing, take the clocks off and apart, then physically move the needle anti-clockwise back round to the 0rpm position with your finger.
It's not difficult, just an unnecessary and time consuming thing to do that can be easily avoided. 


And don't forget, you'll need a size T25 security torx key if any adjustment is needed, without that you won't be able to adjust it anyway, although you can do the check to see if the position is good or not.
So either borrow one or buy the style of your choice, but it's worth having in your tool box anyway.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xt25+tamper+proof+torx.TRS0&_nkw=t25+tamper+proof+torx&_sacat=0




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