Date: 02-07-20  Time: 07:18 AM

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Messages - PaulSmith

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1
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Fazer making a noise
« on: 28 August 2017, 02:37:25 PM »
My Fazer made lots of funny noises when it was new to me. There was a really annoying tick at idle when the exup wasn't adjusted correctly. The soft brown ploppy noises whenever I saw three digit speeds while think I was still legal, and sometimes there were really strange screams and giggles that sounded like they were coming from inside my helmet. I fixed most of them by adjusting the exup cables and wearing earplugs.

2
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: New clutch cable?
« on: 28 August 2017, 02:26:04 PM »
Which replacement did you get? One of the aftermarket cables is probably worse out of the packet then your current cable. After going through two different ones, I got a second hand OEM cable from a breaker yard.

3
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: FZS brake service
« on: 28 August 2017, 02:23:41 PM »
His presentation leaves a bit to be desired, but I actually thinks he knows his stuff. Greasing brake pads and pins is something I've always done based on received wisdom that it prevent seizure and squeeling.... but is it REALY necessary on modern(ish) braking systems? Maybe I'll run mine dry for a while and see if it makes any difference.
To be honest, I am not sure that he does know his stuff. I suspect that what he really, really likes is the sound of his own voice. I saw him in another video on Gearboxes that was just as long and almost as tedious where while the facts he used were not technically incorrect, he used them to imply something that was simply and verifiably wrong. In this case, after seven minutes of talking about sintering (which should have taken him 30 seconds) I gave up so I never got to hear his advice on copaslip.

Is it really necessary? No, of course not. Does it help? Yes it bloody well does. Ask anyone who forgot to copaslip their retaining pin and later had difficulty removing it. The difficulty comes from a build up of crap and corrosion that forms a solid seal. Do you want that same corrosion sealing your pads to your pistons? Preventing freedom of movement and probably affecting heat transfer? I don't, so even though I don't 'need' to, I will continue to use copaslip every time I service my brakes or change my pads.

4
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: FZS brake service
« on: 25 August 2017, 04:08:38 PM »
Interesting opinion on use of grease (copper or otherwise) on brakes ...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOwbSe2UhcY

I tried watching this but got seriously fed up with the bloke going over and over the same points about sintering that I couldn't take any more, a "giant rabbit shit"   :rolleyes . So if someone wants to post the relevant points I'd be appreciative.

Agreed. I have seen this guy do 'Correction Videos' on other topics and he really doesn't get any better. If he has an interesting opinion, I haven't heard it yet.

5
£400 will get you a bloody good weekend away on the bike. Go do a tour somewhere.

6
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Oil change - will this cause issues?
« on: 09 August 2017, 05:27:00 PM »
I think any experienced mechanic will tell you that they can not tell what oil is, or has been in an engine, but they can usually tell you if it has been changed frequently or or not.

Put simply, if you let the oil wear out, it will not protect you and damage will occur. Quality oil will wear out slower then cheap oil, but if you  change the oil before it wears out, then you stay protected so it doesn't matter which you use. If you want to be able to change less frequently, then use quality oil.

7
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Oil change - will this cause issues?
« on: 09 August 2017, 12:39:17 PM »
...
Until I see a parallel test of two engines run on a car and motorcycle specific oil, I'd rather not risk it.
Until I see a parallel test showing one worse then the other, I don't see a risk.

8
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Oil change - will this cause issues?
« on: 08 August 2017, 12:35:00 PM »
My understanding is that under the same conditions, a fully synth oil will degrade slower than a semi-synth oil, which will degrade slower than a pure mineral oil. So if I want to ride around the world without a service, or just extend the service interval beyond manufacturers spec, I will use full synth. If I am not planning on extending the service period, but want to be safe just in case, I will use semi-synth, but since I normally plan to change the oil more frequently then spec, I am comfortable using whatever I have to hand.
I have never worn out a clutch and I have only ever had a clutch slippage once, which an oil change fixed.

 


9
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Oil change - will this cause issues?
« on: 04 August 2017, 11:35:30 AM »
I would always do a double change on a second hand bike. For a bike in the condition you described, I would keep changing the oil every few hundred miles until it came out clean, and only then, put the good stuff in. It is not really the distance between changes that matters so much as the heat cycles. Get it up to temperature a few times so the fresh oil can melt and dissolve the built up gunk.

10
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Confession and Decision
« on: 01 August 2017, 10:24:14 AM »
Oy! Dudeo don't knock out farts with Hi Vis Vest on tourers lol!
Cool sign but don't be so down on the Hi-Vis crowd. It is in your future too.
I moved from a gen1 to a Versys 1000 and while I still miss the Fazer a little bit, overall I am very happy.

11
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Insurance claim
« on: 25 July 2017, 12:07:41 PM »
Usually it is the lesser of market value and agreed value but there is a gotcha if the difference is big.

If you say your bike was worth 3k and the market says 9k then you are only covered for one third of the risks, so you only get 1/3 of the payout, 1K on a 9k bike! This is a real killer for home insurance as most people grossly under value the replacement costs of what hey own.

A gen1 Fazer is going to have a market value of no more then 2.5K, no matter how much you love it. 

12
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Bridgestone BT021 front tyres issue
« on: 12 July 2017, 03:52:50 PM »
When they were good, 021's were very good. But when they went off, they did so quickly and they could become quite unpleasant.

But who cares? They are now three generations out of date. You wont get the same mileage, grip or handling that any modern ST tyre will give so your final cost per mile, even at discounted rates, will not be much better. Even at £140 a set, 021's will give 5000 reasonable miles at 2.8 pence per mile. £240 will get you T30 evo's which are good for 8500 miles or more with better grip so costing you 2.83 pence a mile.     

13
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Gen 2 generators
« on: 21 June 2017, 12:01:58 PM »
Seems like it does happen  http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,22776.0.html

Yes it does happen. Out of 21 thousand posts in Sale and Wanted, 6 include the text 'stator' and only the one you referenced was requesting a new one. I would say that qualifies as rare, wouldn't you?

14
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Gen 2 generators
« on: 15 June 2017, 01:03:41 PM »
Just got an fz1 gen 2 did do a fair amount of research before I parted with any cash, I did not find anything about the generators having a problem. I would also be interested in answer from members on this forum. Not being a member or knowing this forum even existed at that time I did not research on here. I am a member of a couple more owners forums as I have 3 bikes both the other forums the members are keen to help and always points you in the right direction without the bad attitude.     
Do a search with the keyword 'stator' instead of 'generator' and you will find what you are looking for. There is a very rare issue with the glue that holds the magnets in the stator failing which usually results in the failure of the charging system. It is quite an expensive fix from what I have read, but if you do suffer it and are planning on spending that sort of money, you can get uprated parts (post 2010 I think, but don't forget the new cover) which will reduce the risk of it happening again even further. The same problem also affected a small number of R1's, but it is not the sort of thing where you go looking for a preemptive fix. 

15
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Gen 2 generators
« on: 14 June 2017, 03:53:57 PM »
I've asked a question, if you can't answer it with a reasonable answer then don't comment, what have I done to you! I have googled it and there has been a few issues.
That facebook attitude wont serve you very well on this forum and the technical part of your question had been addressed two days before I posted. 

If you had searched the issue, why did you feel the need to ask, on the actual Fazer owners forum, whether or not anybody had heard of it? Why didn't you just search this forum to see what (if anything) Fazer owners had to say about their own bikes? What issues we had encountered, how many of us had encountered them and what we had done about it.

16
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Gen 2 generators
« on: 13 June 2017, 10:30:19 AM »

Facebook? A very reliable source of timely and accurate information.

17

I haven't managed to do all the checks yet, but on first inspection found out that the radiator fan fuse was burnt out  :eek  so replaced it yesterday on the way home from work.


The fan still didn't start up though. I'm getting a multimeter this weekend and will check the relays and hook up a battery to the fan to see if it still works as there is no debris to stop it spinning.


Also, I read somewhere online that HID lights are problematic for the radiator fan circuit - something to do with the ballast charging up causes a power surge that will burn out the radiator fuse. Has anyone else had problems with this?
Have you tried going faster?

More seriously, I don't know what you read or where, but why the foc would the headlights (HID or otherwise) have anything to do with the fan circuit?

18
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Battery Voltage
« on: 24 May 2017, 12:34:26 PM »
Thanks for the replies and advice. The voltages were all with the battery off the bike.

I put it on the bike again, and of course, it fired up immediately.  I went for a long ride.

After 10 days not riding, again, it started instantly - just in the garage, didn't ride it (bloody rain again!). Then 4 days later I tried again and it tried to turn over and started clicking. Same at each attempt.
Terminals and connections were all tight. At this point I decided it was time to get a new one.

The problem is, this is my second battery in the 3 years I've had the bike. OK, so the first one was in the bike when I bought it - and it had been quite difficult to start from the off, but I rode the bike through winter, too. I reckon the battery it came with was not up to the job. I just got rid of it about a month ago - shame, as I hadn't checked the spec before chucking it. My concern is that the next battery will go the same way.

I blame my wife for wanting to get a car, and then, despite promises to the contrary, refusing to get on it after we got the car :(

Actually, I blame the idiot bimbo who knocked us off it and knocked Mrs JD's confidence with it to make her want 4 wheels.
You still don't know if the battery was at fault or not. With the battery connected, measure the voltage across the terminals every few days. If it goes down measurably, you have a wiring issue that changing the battery will not fix.

19
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Oil gain???
« on: 24 May 2017, 12:29:50 PM »
Did you pre-fill the oil filter? (And remember to let it stand so the oil could soak into the media) If not, you might have had an air pocket that took a while to clear. As for the oil going black, just do another oil change, they are quick and cheap. A clean and healthy engine should start to darken the oil after ~1000 miles, much faster then that and either the engine isn't clean or it isn't healthy.

20
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Battery Voltage
« on: 15 May 2017, 01:09:23 PM »
There are three different problems you could be having, 1) something is draining it, 2) it is focced, or 3) it is not being properly charged. 

12.31 is a little low but not too serious, dropping to 12.26 after three days is not too bad but was the battery connected to the bike during that time? If not, try hooking it up and monitoring the drop over three days as you may have something that is draining it such as a faulty alarm or a short in the wiring.

A damaged battery can still be putting out the correct voltage but if it can't supply the current, it wont start your bike. With your battery connected, put your voltmeter across the terminals. Record the voltage. Now turn the ignition on and record it again. It should be lower but still be over 12v, preferably closer 12.5. Now press the starter and watch the voltage. If it drops below 9v you probably have internal damage and should think about replacing it. Below 10v and it might just need reconditioning.

Once the engine starts and has warmed up, measure the voltage again. If it is less then 12.75 at idle or less then 13.5 at 4k rpm then you have a problem with your charging circuit.

You should do all three tests as you may well have more than one problem.

21
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Suspension fitted the wrong way up?!
« on: 19 April 2017, 12:17:58 PM »
That doesn't look to me like a shock that has only done 2000 miles.

22
...
I never mentioned corrosion in my post (see above) all I said was 'I understood that you should never use lock thread compound on any fixings that go into alloy threads'
...
But if you feel you need to use it on your brakes parts then that's fine.
...
Anyway as I said at the end of my post 'just saying trying to be helpful  '

If you really want to make sure they don't come loose you have a welder.

And if thread locking compound has no impact why use it, it does have impact it causes threads to shear off in alloy.
Helpful is fine, when it is helpful, but not so fine when you don't know what you are talking about and the advice you end up giving is dangerously wrong. You understood Locktite and alloy threads had a problem. You understood wrong. Locktite does not cause threads to shear, overtightening causes threads to shear, and greasing threads before attempting to torque them is  a great way to ensure they are overtightened. The only problem associated with alloy threads is galvanic corrosion, which is a potential risk when ever two dissimilar metals (alloy or otherwise) are in the presence of an electrolyte. Locktite is not an electrolyte, copper-grease can be and introduces another metal to the equation. As for the brake disc bolts, the Yamaha Fazer 1000 service manual, Section 4, page 15, "Brake disc bolt", torque to 18Nm, LOCTITE. 18Nm is less that half the torque used on the caliper bolts. A quarter of the torque for the front axle and just over 10% of the torque for the rear axle. It is NOT VERY TIGHT! That is why you use locktite to ensure they stay in place. If you do them up like a gorilla, you will fuck the heads, you will fuck the threads, you will probably fuck the mount holes, and you will have problems removing them. 

If you don't know what copper grease is for, or how it works, you really should refrain from recommending it until you find out, and if you want to recommend something that seriously contradicts the service manual, you should a) know what the service manual actually says, and b) have a pretty bloody good reason for saying it is wrong! 

23
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: ngk iridium
« on: 27 March 2017, 04:58:45 PM »
Hi folks, what do you make of this. ok they were fitted 2 years ago, 7k miles. I know i replaced the plug caps correctly. my Question is whats the point in fitting iridium (supposedly longer life) when the rest of the plug is made from recycled baked bean cans >: :\
If you haven't checked them in the last two years, I wonder what state all the other metal bits you don't look at are in? The drain holes may be clear now, but the damage in the pictures looks pretty much exactly what I would expect if the plugs were left sitting in a puddle of salty water on a regular basis.

Service manual calls for "Check condition" and "Clean and regap" every 10,000km, looks like you have some serious cleaning to do.

24
...
Hi FZ1obp,
In your second picture it looks like there is red Locktite (Not sure what number the red Loctite is) on the screws you got out, but I understood that you should never use lock thread compound on any fixings that go into alloy threads, I'm not saying you did it, but it looks like someone did, a little bit of silicon grease or copper-slip is the best bet with steel fixings into alloy. just saying trying to be helpful  :thumbup
I think you might be mixing your metaphors.
Mixed metals can (over time) cause  a corrosion issue, and copper grease can reduce the impact because the copper corrodes first, but thread locking compound has no impact as it has no metal. The purpose of using silicon grease or copper grease is so you can undo bolts easily (and to reduce corrosion), while thread lock is for when you really, really don't want them coming lose. The bolts holding my brakes in place require threadlock, not grease.

25
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Bite point on clutch?
« on: 15 March 2017, 11:02:13 AM »

The 'biting point' in the fazers' clutch with standard levers, which is within our range of adjustment is limited by the amount of free play in the lever. I.E. no play, instant bite. More play, a later bite & closer to the bars
In the case of the OP if he loosens the cable the bite will be closer to the bars & hence a later bite.
Adjustable levers will not alter the cable travel but because the levers can be set closer to the bars the stretch is less, the bite closer to the bars so most prefer it, including myself.
Whenever I've replaced clutch cables I've always taken out just enough slack at the clutch end to allow a final adjustment (i.e. minor tweaking) at the lever to achieve a little free play.
I am however, interested in learning in this case, how shortening the length of a cable can have a different effect depending upon which end is adjusted.
Yeah, yeah, I most of you know this but sometimes ya gotta say it ;)
That is why there are two adjustments. The slack is controlled by the adjuster on the lever, and the bite adjuster on the clutch housing wont move until the slack is taken up, but the bite adjuster controls how much it needs to move before the clutch itself engages.

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