Date: 20-09-20  Time: 06:39 AM

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Messages - Paul

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1
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Buying an FZS600 - help please!
« on: 06 June 2020, 11:34:21 AM »
Bought my Fazer new in 2001.  Took the fairing off shortly after, it's now clocked 104,000 miles. 
Personally I think they look better without the fairing.


I think £1100 is a bit on the high side given the mileage.



2
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Removing engine
« on: 01 September 2019, 03:02:51 PM »
Thanks, I'm guessing you mean right-hand side when you sit on it (off-side) as opposed to near-side (as in kerb side)


I'll write it down this time.


3
FZS600 Fazer / Removing engine
« on: 01 September 2019, 02:33:34 PM »
Quick question: does anyone know which is the best side to remove the engine from the frame?
I'm pretty sure I've asked this question before, but I can't remember the answer, so I apologise for forgetting. 

4
FZS600 Fazer / Re: 100,000 mile report
« on: 11 August 2019, 10:20:43 AM »
To His Dudeness


No, I've never replaced the brake discs, or the clutch lever. 

5
FZS600 Fazer / Re: 100,000 mile report
« on: 10 August 2019, 11:41:44 AM »
To Darrsi


I don't what type of coolant they put in a Fazer when it's new.  I only know it's never needed any adding to it during the course of its life.  I should really change the fuel filter, though.


It would be interesting to strip the engine and see what's worn out and what hasn't.   

6
FZS600 Fazer / Re: 100,000 mile report
« on: 09 August 2019, 08:02:30 PM »
To Anquitel


Yes, it's done 700 miles from new.  Its the same as the old one (Y reg). Maybe next year it will finally see some riding.
God knows why I bought it.
It's been sat in the garage for fifteen years... I had some spare money, so I bought it.
So here's the odd bit.
I've changed the battery on it twice and had the carbs off to clean them out twice, and it's on it's second set of spark plugs.
The old one (or rather the worn out one) has never had a problem, battery is original to the bike, I've never taken the carbs off, and the plugs have been in it for 55,000 miles.


Conclusion... they seem to work best when they're being used.









7
FZS600 Fazer / Re: 100,000 mile report
« on: 09 August 2019, 06:17:06 PM »
To Anqutiel


Thank you for the comment


Picture of the old bike attached

8
FZS600 Fazer / 100,000 mile report
« on: 09 August 2019, 03:02:12 PM »
100,000 miles
Bought my Fazer new in Easter 2001. It’s now clocked over 100,000 miles.
So for the benefit of anyone who’s thinking of buying one, or has an interest on how they perform over 100,000 miles, this is my experience:

Things that went wrong or broke.

The  speedo drive
The speedo drive in the front wheel broke at around 20,000 miles.
It broke because I didn’t locate it correctly when putting the front wheel back in.
So yes it was my fault, but they could have made a more robust speedo

Front calliper oil seals
The front callipers (both of them) starting binding on the discs at around 30,000 miles.
I had to replace the piston seals, which is a pain of a job because there’s four in each calliper and you need a compressor to get the pistons out. Why did they fail?  Probably because I put DOT3 as opposed to DOT4 brake fluid in when I bled the brakes.  So yes, it was my fault.

Sprocket carrier bearing and drive side rear wheel bearing
They both collapsed at around 75,000 miles.  Oddly enough I didn’t know this until I changed the back tyre.  Why did they collapse?  No idea, perhaps it was me over-tightening the rear axle nut.

Offside spark plug
Had a problem with this at around 45,000 miles (2009).  I ended up putting Iridium tipped plugs in all four cylinders.  I’ve checked them twice over the last 55,000 miles and they’ve been fine.  But I’ve never attempted to check the offside cylinder, because I have a feeling I might not get a plug back in it.  According to my local garage, they only change Iridium tipped plugs every 60,000 miles.  In any event if you fit Iridium tipped plugs in a Fazer they should be good for over 55,000 miles.

Choke cable
The choke cable broke at around 20,000 miles.  It actually rusted through mid point in its length.  I’m guessing water must have been getting down it.  I never bothered replacing it, because it rarely needs choke to start, and you can simple push the choke slide bar across if you need to.


Clutch cable and clutch release arm
The clutch cable nipple pulled through the clutch release arm at around 90,000 miles.  I managed to get the bike home because, providing you don’t have to stop you can change gear at low revs without using the clutch.  I fixed it by putting the cable back in the clutch release arm and tapping the opening closed with a hammer.  Bit of a rough fix, but it’s still working.

Cam chain
The cam chain started rattling somewhere between 50,000 and 60,000 miles.  I just ignored it.  Anyway at around 85,000 it suddenly decided to shut itself up, presumably the cam chain tensioner finally clicked out.

Exhaust system
In 2006 I was on my way to Knot End at 9.00 a.m. on a Sunday morning.  I was on a quiet country road and behind a couple of cars. Speed…. probably around 30mph.  Without warning a 1.5 metre diameter white mark appeared in front of me (I didn’t see it coming because there were two cars in front of me).  I just rode over it…. Didn’t give it a thought.

When I got to Knot End I noticed white marks on my jeans.  And then I noticed white paint all over the front of the engine and header pipes.  I’d just ridden through around 5 litres of freshly spilled white gloss paint.  The likelihood of being behind two cars at 9.00 a.m. on a Sunday morning on this road is remote.  The likelihood of there being 5 litres of freshly spilled white paint on the road, even more so.
By the time I got the bike home I’d ridden around 45 miles with a load of gloss paint quietly cooking on the engine and header pipes.  It took the rest of the day to get it off.  In any event I couldn’t effectively get it off the header pipes without removing some of the black paint.  Ultimately the header pipes rusted and I ended up replacing them.


Spark plug caps
One of these fell to bits when I pulled it off.  All the inside bits fell out.


Service intervals
Copper slipped exhaust header nuts/studs when I got the bike.  Why they don’t do this when they build them, God only knows.

Changed the oil every year and it’s been run on fully synthetic all its life.  I’ve used Asda’s finest because it’s usually the cheapest.


Changed the oil filter once every 10,000 miles.

Changed the air filter once every 20,000 miles, but give it a vacuum clean at 10,000 miles.

I use to change the plugs every ten thousand miles, but I put Iridium tipped plugs in the bike in 2009 (it had done about 45,000 miles at this point) and I’ve never changed them since.

It’s on its fourth chain and sprocket set, and it now needs a new set.  Yamaha’s own chain and sprocket sets last the longest, but I don’t know if you can still get them.  It’s a bit of fag putting a Yamaha set on the bike, because the chain is endless so you’ve got to get the swinging arm off.


I’ve balanced the carbs once every 20,000 miles.

Checked the valve clearances at 30,000 miles and 60,000 miles.  They were fine, so the valve clearances have never been adjusted in 100,000 miles.

Decided to put a 120 – 70 sports compound front tyre on the bike at around 40,000 miles.  The steering is quicker, but the grip you get is better than a standard 110 – 70 sports tourer tyre.  You do however lose a bit of clearance between the tyre and the mudguard.

Paint finish on the engine.... Before I bought the Fazer, I already new about the problems with painted aluminium engines. The paint coupled with the heat from the engine makes the paint micro-porous. Moisture gets through the pores, reacts with the aluminium and lifts the paint.  But there is a way of preventing this.  Basically spray the engine with silicon.  I use Carplan Original Black.  But any silicon spray should have the same effect.  The silicon seals the pores, moisture doesn’t get through, and the paint doesn’t lift. 

Changed the fork oil at 75,000 miles.  The oil was relatively clean so it was a bit of a waste of time.

I’ve never changed the fuel filter and never added any coolant or changed it.

However I didn’t like the fairing so I put a normal (LC350) headlamp on it instead.  I used Suzuki Bandit fork leg brackets to mount the headlamp.


Things that should have packed in but didn’t

The battery is original to the bike. Why it’s not packed in… I don’t know, but it hasn’t.  Apart from riding the bike, I only ever charge it up once a month when the bike’s not in use.  Last year I met a guy who was riding a Thunder Ace.  His bike was Y reg, same as mine.  He told me his battery was also original to the bike.  So we’ve both either been very lucky or Yamaha decided to fit good batteries in 2000 – 2001

The engine is a gem, anyone who’s ever ridden a Fazer, probably knows that.  In any event I’ve rev'd the nuts off it for 100,000 miles, and it still runs fine.  It’s probably down a bit on power from when it was new, but it still pulls well. It uses a bit of oil, but doesn’t seem to smoke.


Verdict

According to test reports I read at the time, the 600 Fazer was the best middleweight road bike on the market when it came out.  I’ve test ridden similar bikes over the last eighteen years, not enough to form a conclusive verdict, but I reckon it’s still one of the best middleweight road bikes of all time. The engine is wonderful, the front brake is superb, and you even get a centre stand and enough space under the seat for your water-proofs and butty box.


My old Fazer is now starting to show it's age because things have got worn.... they haven't failed, but are definitely worn.
I think the engine has probably got another 20,000 miles + in it, but I'm not sure about the rest of it.
 

9
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Fzs600 self destruct
« on: 06 February 2019, 10:32:04 AM »
My experience with the Fazer engine is good.


Bought mine new in 2001.
It's now got 97,000 miles on the clock.
Still runs well, and I've never bothered adjusting valve shims or changing the cam chain.....  I checked the valve clearances at around 35,000 miles, they were fine, so I screwed the cam cover back down and just kept on riding it.


The bikes been run on fully synthetic all its life, and I've added ZX1 oil treatment a couple of times......  I've never had to touch the engine, although I guess it must be wearing out.... pretty much like the rider really. 




10
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Oil pressure switch
« on: 26 January 2019, 08:37:34 PM »
Don't worry.


My Fazer has now clocked 97000 and I've ridden it with the 'oil light on' many times.....  it's just a level switch.... as long as the oil pump is picking up oil, you'll be fine.  The Fazer engine is pretty much unburstable... it's everything else that ultimately wears out.... not least the rider.

11
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Naked Fazers!!
« on: 25 July 2018, 07:16:50 AM »
Front End pics attached


Headlight is off a RD350LC

12
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Summer edition of ' WHAT BIKE ? '
« on: 19 June 2018, 09:37:59 PM »
Mines done 93,000 and it's still good-to-go.
And I reckon it would certainly give an MT07 a run for its money.... and then some if I'm honest.

13
FZS600 Fazer / Re: FZS600 valve train noise/camchain
« on: 31 May 2018, 08:51:11 AM »
My riding style is rev the nuts of it.  But I change the oil every year and I've run it on fully synthetic all its life.

14
FZS600 Fazer / Re: FZS600 valve train noise/camchain
« on: 26 May 2018, 11:40:54 AM »
My Fazers done 93,000 miles.  It started to rattle (cam chain) around 60,000 miles, and then it stopped rattling at 85,000 miles.
I've never replaced the cam chain or adjusted the valve clearances and I've had the bike from new.

15
Don't mess about with the jets, but look at the exhaust pipes, my experience is described below:


If you change your exhaust headers make sure the restrictor point of the new set is similar in overall opening size to the original set.
 
The original outlet measured:  35mm (narrowest point) to 43.5mm (widest point) externally at its most restricted point.
 
I’m not sure what the wall thickness is but I reckon it must be somewhere between 1.0mm and 2.00mm, my original pipes are still in good condition and I was loathe to saw them up to find out.
 
In any event the Motad replacement header system outlet pipe is has a clear open area of 1364sqm.  Whereas the original outlet is restricted to somewhere between 962sqm and 1075sqm.
 
When I fitted the Motad headers the power band almost evaporated and a gas analyser showed it be running far too weak, this being supported by the plug colour.
 
A further test was done by a lazer temp gauge on the exhaust clamp bracket of both original and new pipes and this showed the exhaust gas temp had risen.
 
To solve the issue the Motad pipe was sleeved down first to 1075sqm which improved things no end, and finally down to 975sqm, which seemed to be better.
 
Plugs were checked and exhaust gas analysed and the results were as good as I could get them.
 

16
For Sale & Wanted / Re: Wanted fzs 600 headers
« on: 13 September 2017, 02:22:09 PM »
I've got a set... with no rust or holes.


I'm based in Bolton.


Give me a ring if you're interested: Tel: works: 01204 84382 or mobile: 07813 439196

17
For Sale & Wanted / Re: Wanted: Various FZS600 bits (Box-eye)
« on: 21 July 2017, 10:18:55 AM »
I've got a set of original downpipes in very good condition (no rust)
I live in Bolton, my landline number is 01204 845382, mobile is 07813 439196 and my e-mail is greenhalghco@btconnect.com


Regards


Paul

18
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Gearbox or Clutch Problems
« on: 14 July 2017, 03:29:34 PM »
Agree with BBROWN, it sounds like your clutch is dragging.

19
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Engine rattle
« on: 14 July 2017, 03:26:27 PM »
Mine had the classic cam chain rattle.
It started after it had done around 50,000
By 85,000 miles it was very noticeable
And then for some unexplained reason it stopped
I'm guessing the cam chain tensioner clicked out
In any event it's few hundred miles short of 90,000, and the rattle's not come back..... yet.

20
FZS600 Fazer / Re: output shaft viable repair ???
« on: 05 July 2017, 11:12:01 AM »
To Tommy


Yes......  but from memory some of the old Hondas used to have a slightly similar method of securing the sprocket and they didn't give problems


But more to the point if the output shaft has the over-size splines issue, the sprocket would chatter anyway even when the nut is tightened up on the sprocket......  which is why it wears the threads out.   But it doesn't seem to wear the output shaft splines out.   

21
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Inner diameter of stock downpipes?
« on: 05 July 2017, 08:33:02 AM »
If you change your exhaust headers make sure the restrictor point of the new set is similar in overall opening size to the original set.
 
The original outlet measured:  35mm (narrowest point) to 43.5mm (widest point) externally at its most restricted point.
 
I’m not sure what the wall thickness is but I reckon it must be somewhere between 1.0mm and 2.00mm, my original pipes are still in good condition and I was loathe to saw them up to find out.
 
In any event the Motad replacement header system outlet pipe is has a clear open area of 1364sqm.  Whereas the original outlet is restricted to somewhere between 962sqm and 1075sqm.
 
When I fitted the Motad headers the power band almost evaporated and a gas analyser showed it be running far too weak, this being supported by the plug colour.
 
A further test was done by a lazer temp gauge on the exhaust clamp bracket of both original and new pipes and this showed the exhaust gas temp had risen.
 
To solve the issue the Motad pipe was sleeved down first to 1075sqm which improved things no end, and finally down to 975sqm, which seemed to be better.
 
Plugs were checked and exhaust gas analysed and the results were as good as I could get them.
 

22
FZS600 Fazer / Re: output shaft viable repair ???
« on: 05 July 2017, 08:24:03 AM »
Personal view
 
The sprocket nut is there to stop the sprocket sliding off the output shaft.
 
It doesn’t need to tighten flush with the sprocket to do this.
 
The output shaft is the fault on some of the fazers.  The grooves in some output shafts are cut slightly too wide.
 
This allows the sprocket to move backwards and forwards on the shaft when placed under load or off load.
 
Because the nut is tight against the sprocket it continually rotates slightly on the threads… wearing them out.
 
The answer in my opinion is grind down the flange on the sprocket nut so that when it tightens on the shaft it is simply flush with the sprocket but does not tighten against it…. And put some grease on the sprocket to further ease the junction between the nut and sprocket. 
 
Therefore there is insufficient ‘grip’ between the sprocket and the nut so it doesn't turn the nut.
 
In essence you want to tighten the nut up on the output shaft but not tighten it up against the sprocket.

23
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Header refurb questions
« on: 29 March 2017, 06:57:45 AM »
I've got stainless steel headers and take them off once a year to clean the exhaust system.


I've never replaced the exhaust gaskets.
I just give them a coat of silicone (the stuff window fitters use) before re-fitting the headers.
It's always seemed to seal them.




24
FZS600 Fazer / Re: New front end
« on: 06 February 2017, 10:41:27 AM »
Changed my front headlamp etc. in 2003
Instruments are mounted using a bracket and extended nut from the handlebar clamps




25
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Complete lack of start up.
« on: 19 November 2016, 10:48:00 AM »
If you want to bypass the starter cut out relay and circuits:
Connect the white/blue wire from the solenoid to the white/blue wire in the brown plug in wiring junction box under the tank


The white/blue wire in the brown plug runs to the starter button


I had a very similar problem last week.
Ultimately it turned out to be one of the alarm loop wires under the seat near the cdi box (the plug had come partially disconnected)

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