Date: 26-08-19  Time: 06:49 AM

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Messages - andybesy

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 20
1
FZS600 Fazer / Re: borken caliper bleed nipple
« on: 08 May 2018, 03:25:45 PM »
Also, was it sheared due to not wanting to come undone, or over-tightening?

If it's just been over tightened then it should come out okay if you can only get a grip on it, but if it sheared when you tried to undo it then presumably it's corroded in there, which can be harder.

2
FZS600 Fazer / Re: borken caliper bleed nipple
« on: 08 May 2018, 03:23:58 PM »
Has it sheared or just rounded?

If it's sheared, is it flush?

There're quite soft, so you may be able to hammer something like a star drive bit in to it, then turn it using that? Probably best to remove the caliper from the bike first.

A picture would be useful.

Andy

3
FZS600 Fazer / Re: T-Boned a car
« on: 31 January 2018, 12:34:34 PM »
Hi,

To support the bike with the front wheel off I'll tend to start by putting it on the centre stand - at which point it'll still have the front on the ground but the rear will be up in the air a little.

But then I'll gently push down on the seat to push the rear wheel to the ground, at which point the front wheel will lift a little off the ground.

Then I'll slide a milk crate with a wooden scaffold board on top of it under the exhaust.

That's just the right height to support the bike in that position, and the wooden board is soft enough to ensure the exhaust is not dented or scratched, yet solid enough that it's not going anywhere.

For those with appropriate kit a jack under the exhaust works the same way and is common practice - again with wood to protect the bike.

But if you don't have a jack then it's just a matter of coming up with some combination of bits which are the right height and solid enough.

HTH, Andy

4
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Cold starting
« on: 01 December 2017, 12:03:37 PM »
Does the dump continue to run for more than 10 seconds when you switch the ignition on?

I'd normally expect to hear the fuel pump operating when the ignition is first switched on - not always but when it needs it - but for it to then stop after a few seconds. At which point it should start fine.

If it's continuing to run for more than a few seconds then that may indicate a fault with the fuel supply or the pump itself.

Simple checks you can do is checking your fuel pipes aren't kinked - have you recently lifted the tank and trapped then when replacing it?

And after riding for a time when you stop to refuel is their a hissing noise indicating a vacuum on opening the fuel cap?

Of course it could also be the pump itself but check simpler things first.

Also, how old is your battery? It's exactly now when I'd expect batteries that are past it to die - it's the first proper cold snap when they actually fail.

Also check your choke cable isn't snapped and is actually moving the gubbins on the carbs. They do often seize and snap.

Just some pointers, you'll need to go through a diagnostic process but it shouldn't be too difficult to track down.

Andy

5
Hi F4celess,

You don't need to change the discs at the same time as changing the pads. That would get very expensive! Pads are £30, discs around £300.

Depending on your riding style you'll get between 5K and 10K out of a set of front pads, while I've just changed my front discs at 50K.

It is true that they bed in together, but that just means that it'll take a few miles for new pads to become fully efficient whist their wear beds in to match the disc.

Andy

6
Hi,

For spark plugs I'd certainly go with NGK. I think it's CR8E you need. You can get them from Amazon at around £4.50 each as an "add-on" item, meaning they have to be ordered alongside something else. I'd be careful about ebay in the case of spark plugs as there are many fakes about but I checked these quite carefully and these Amazon ones look legit to me.

For the oil it' s a matter of personal preference, personally I use Motul 5000 or 5100, but any brand name semi-synthetic labelled as specifically a motorcycle oil should be fine. Some would advise to avoid car oils as they may have incompatible additives for the wet clutch. I've always used ebay for this but from a reputable seller such as Busters or Demon Tweaks, around £35 I think. I change mine every 4000.

The air filter is up to you, but I would go with a K&N. I didn't notice much of a difference but it certainly didn't hurt any and at least you know you have a quality component which you won't have to service very often, and when you do it can be cleaned rather than replaced. This having been said, if you're short the OEM filter will be fine of course.

For coolant I used Halfords OAT premix with good results, but the important thing here is that if when you drain the old coolant you find you have the old glecol-ethyl based stuff in there (blue) then you need to thoroughly flush out the old stuff with water (or even distilled water if you're OCD about these things) before adding the new stuff. They don't mix well and would form sludge. I'd recommend flushing just to be on the safe side unless you're sure it's already OAT in there.

I think it's the nature of service items that none of the above are going to give you any noticable performance increase, but the bike will appreciate it, and certainly if it's new to you then these should be top of your list.

Maybe also look at brake pads. I like EBC organics personally, but personal preference to suit your priorities.

Andy

PS) If the bike is new to you, then had anyone yet mentioned the front sprocket nut epic?

7
General / Re: Bargains?
« on: 09 October 2017, 11:51:59 AM »
I fitted new discs a month or two ago. Blow torch and heat is definitely the way to go. You don't need them red hot (they would be softer when cooled) but a minute or two for each bolt.

You'll need to shield your bearings from the heat. I used an oil filter wrench thing with foil inside it just sat over the top of the bearings.

And also good whack or two with a hammer or rubber mallet straight down on to your allen attachment to shock them.

They should then come out fine.

Andy

8
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Which Throwovers?
« on: 09 October 2017, 11:35:16 AM »
Hi Vinny,

I use the Oxford ones same as you and have also found they blocked access to the rear pegs if mounted in the usual way, but we found we were able to mount them further back to allow comfortable access.

This has worked fine for several tours including our recent honeymoon ride from Santander in Spain back to the UK.

Mounted this way only two of the three straps goes under the seat, whilst the third runs over the fairing at the rear of the bike (between the seat and the rear grab rail).

Don't worry, they're not going anywhere, I've done thousands of miles with them like this and so long as there's a good couple of straps under the seat plus ancillary bungees they're fine.

The main issue with this set-up is that when heavy they rest on the indicators, but you can use bungees to support them at the bottom and take the load, keeping the weight off the indicators.

I tend to tie them to the rear foot peg hangars at the front.

To support the rear I use bungees attached to the base of the pannier on the inside next to the bike, then run them under the pannier and up and around it's outer side, then through the carry handle and then under the pillion grab handle and then finally attached to the net which I have over the top of my top box.

I'd be interested to hear how other folks solve this problem as although it works anything which increases pillion comfort is welcome!

Hope this helps, Andy

9
General / Re: Pushing your bike.
« on: 18 September 2017, 03:49:24 PM »
Yes it does need to be road legal in all respects, and shouldn't be on the pavement, although I'd make a judgement on that one as I went, keeping safety in mind.

You might end up having a chat with someone but so long as it's all legit and you're not causing a problem I would expect them to be reasonable? Most likely just interested in checking it's not stolenn

Depends on your route I guess, not down big or busy roads I'd suggest!
Andy

10
General / Re: Pushing your bike.
« on: 18 September 2017, 03:26:54 PM »
I'd strap one to the bike. I don't know what the law says but judgement suggests if you end up discussing it with some authority it couldn't hurt.

I really wouldn't try and push it wearing one for any distance, I'd be hot and out of breath.

Andy

11
General / Re: Bleeding brakes
« on: 01 September 2017, 03:17:32 PM »
Hey,

Last time I used a little jubilee clip on the nipple.

There's a difference between bleeding from dry and simply flushing through the old fluid with new fluid.

If your brakes are good and you just want to change the fluid then just use the bleeding method described below and you should be fine.

If you've let air in to the system or your brakes are otherwise not good then you'll need to bleed them properly. In my experience it's not so bad a job.

I've used one way values and mighty vac systems etc but for me nothing works so well as the old fashioned manual method followed by tying up the lever and leaving it over night.

I recently bled from dry after fitting new caliper's and brake lines, and found I was able to get the brakes 'okay, just about passable' within 10 minutes of manual bleeding.

But then after tying up the lever and leaving overnight you ought to wake up to find them spot on in the morning. (You'll never really bleed all the air out from dry by pushing it down, the brakes auto bleed as used).

I won't go in to tremendous detail on the bleed process as I'm sure you know it and there's loads of videos showing the process, but they key point is to proceed slowly and carefully so as to not mix up the steps and suck air in. Remembering that, it's just a matter of first popping your spanner on the bleed nipple and then a bit of tube over that, and then repeating these steps:

1) With the value still closed apply gentle pressure to brake
2) Whilst maintaining gentle pressure on the brake, open the bleed value. As you open the value the brake will give and fluid will be expelled.
3) Whilst maintaining gentle pressure on the brake, close the bleed value. Don't over-tighten.
4) Release the brake. Fresh fluid will be pulled from the reservoir.

Repeat as above, and take care not to let the reservoir run dry or you have to start over.

Don't stress about getting them perfect - get them okay, tie back the brake lever with a strong rubber band or tape or whatever then leave it over night.

It'll be better in the morning (technically it'll be better after the first couple of pumps of the lever in the morning).

If you look at the reservoir when you pump the brake (even with the bleed value closed) you'll see it expelling bubbles via the top of the system and pulling fresh fluid in.

Hope that helps, Andy

12
General / Re: Help, anybody had this before and knows a solution
« on: 25 July 2017, 09:53:16 AM »
Yes, light pressure on the seat where the rider would normally sit is the solution, it's the same when you have soft luggage on with straps under the seat.

Andy

13
General / Re: Notifications
« on: 10 March 2017, 03:41:13 PM »
Hi SutherlandFZS600,

It might help you to know they're coming through on my side so presumably website working okay.

I'd check your email address is correct on your foc-u.co.uk account (or try another), and beyond that look at any spam filters on your email address or in your email software.

Andy

14
General / Re: The 2017 Spring Budget (the Fazer-related bits)
« on: 08 March 2017, 02:49:27 PM »
The insurance premium tax is going up again and again. Only a couple of years ago it was 6% - now 12%.

I don't think VAT is charged on insurance and so I wonder if they intend to steadily increase to match the VAT rate?

It has a big impact on home insurance too, and other instance products which affect small businesses in particular.

Andy


15
For Sale & Wanted / Re: Wanted Givi e34/36
« on: 07 March 2017, 10:08:18 AM »
Hi,

I think I may have one but will need to check in the loft. I'll do that a little later today.

It was definitely a mid-size Givi top box but was never sure of the exact model.

It was replaced only because the key snapped on me and I needed a new one ASAP.

Visual condition wasn't great as it had done a lot of miles, but I don't remember any faults other than the lock.

If I still have it then would this be of use?

Andy

16
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Front Sprocket Nut
« on: 19 January 2017, 03:28:13 PM »
I found myself in the same position. Ended up having it changed alongside chain and sprocket set when became due. But if it bothers you when on bike then get it changed, no fun otherwise. Andy

17
General / Re: Degreaser
« on: 16 January 2017, 02:28:40 PM »
Do white spirit or parafin leave a residue?

Andy

18
General / Re: Slow Fuel Gauge
« on: 15 December 2016, 02:04:12 PM »
I think it's just dampened to keep it steady and stop it jumping about as you ride.

On my gen 1 the old fashioned gauge takes a few minutes from cold before accurate.

Andy

19
FZS600 Fazer / Re: New noise
« on: 14 December 2016, 11:36:55 AM »
Yup good advice here. I'd only add that even though bearings don't show play, it could still be them. So I'd check:

1) Muck under mudguard
2) Brakes binding
3) Speedo drive
4) Bearings
5) Finally, sometimes tyres can go funny, but the above is more likely

Andy

20
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Tank fixings
« on: 28 November 2016, 01:23:18 PM »
No not at the front. There are big chunky rubber mounts under the tank where it sits on the main frame, but at the front the protruding lug bolts directly to the frame, no rubber washer or similar.

Remember it only needs to be nipped up, don't lean on that one.

Andy

21
General / Re: Mad max bikers in the news
« on: 01 November 2016, 03:13:06 PM »
Yes, Agreed.

I'm concerned that certain groups of UK bikers are beginning to imitate the behavior of certain groups of US bikers which have been all over the internet of late. Aren't some people easily influenced?

Seems to range from showing off (but you don't look as cool as you think you do!) to almost gang like behavior. I.E. Taking over the road and generally behaving like a prick through to threataning or even criminal behaviour.

Minor acts of rebellion have their place, but lets take any opportunity we have to remind our younger fellows that it's about freedom and having fun, not ego, image and riding like a dick.

Also, It was clear after the last time this happened with all the quads etc that there was some degree of overlap between stolen and uninsured bikes and these events, so lets remember these guys are not our friends.

There we go - I don't normally do politics of any sort but wanted to get that off my chest!

Andy

22
FZS600 Fazer / Re: The dreaded ethanol !!
« on: 20 October 2016, 01:46:49 PM »
Oh that's good news, Thanks both.

Andy

23
FZS600 Fazer / Re: The dreaded ethanol !!
« on: 20 October 2016, 07:14:42 AM »
Wecome Judder - good to have you on board and I have no doubt you'll come to value this forum greatly, very handy for all sorts of shizzle.

Re the STP additive, how long does it last? I fear I know the answer to this but just to check. I bought a bottle couple of years back and used half but never got around to using the second half. Haven't thrown it away yet simply due to need to dispose of it properly. Would it be a bad idea to use the second half if it might have 'gone off' by this stage? Sorry for the brief aside.

Andy

24
General / Re: Which Paint/Primer?
« on: 24 September 2016, 08:16:58 PM »
Okay great thanks, Will check those out.

Sanding all sorted today so paint next.

Andy

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