Date: 28-03-24  Time: 22:13 pm

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Messages - Gaz66

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1
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: timing advance
« on: 22 March 2024, 12:06:28 am »
Hi Dodsy.


Personally I'd steer clear of advance rotors.
I tried a 4 degree advance rotor, turned my tuned 1000 into a feckin jerko-matic below 3,000rpm, it was un ride-able in traffic without slipping the clutch.
Might work ok on a stock bike.
Defo a pointless mod on a tuned bike imho.


OEM rotor went straight back & all was smooth again from idle up to max rpm.

2
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Ivan kit installation and quickshifter
« on: 21 March 2024, 11:56:09 pm »
https://www.google.com/search?q=ivans+peformance&rlz=1CAXGJJ_enGB992&oq=ivans+peformance&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOdIBCDY5ODBqMGo3qAIAsAIA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Hi.
My advice is service the engine 1st & strip/clean/set up EXUP system before throwing any money at the bike, if Exup's missing or shagged, there's no point going down the Ivans kit route, ensure everything's in spec, valve clearances / new plugs & filters.

Then consider an Ivans kit, best to contact them via Facebook, they'll take your order & payment via Paypal only, last MB kit I bought was around £120 inc vat & shipping to UK.

Do some research on what kit does what first, MB kit is the pricier kit & transforms the bikes fuelling, but involves some carb / airbox / carb mount mods that are beyond many home mechanics, you'll also need a sports silencer, can't comment on cheaper slip-on kit, never used one.

Hope this helps.

[Edited to to fix the tiny font problem: GrahamM - Moderator]

3
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Another R6 shock conversion
« on: 28 December 2023, 10:25:25 am »
Yep, defo seems more shock top to frame clearance than the other R6 shock, curious, does yours have high & low speed rebound damping like the shock on mine, maybe this was why it was so popular as a mod, no compliants on mine after 7yrs, OEM Yellow spring on my R6 shock is around 95NmI even sourced a used as new K-tech heavier 115Nm spring off eBay for £35 posted, just in case the R6 spring wasn't up to the job, but it seems more than adequate fro my 16st in full gear.
Spare K-tech spring's been sat in my garage for yrs unused, just been modifying a ZX10R shock for my old 5th Gen VFR800, so it's come in useful for that mod.



4
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Another R6 shock conversion
« on: 23 December 2023, 12:32:14 am »
Hi Matey & welcome to the forum.


Any issues with upper frame clearance & ride height & sag?
The shock you've elected to source isn't the same R6 shock most of us have fitted on our thou's.
Those of us that's done this mod yrs ago used an earlier R6 shock with a ramped preload adjuster ring, these were new/plentiful & cheap as loads were on sale on eBay, pulled from new R6's that were destined for the track.


I'd double check shock top - frame clearance if I was you.
The earlier R6 shock needed a tad filling off the top to get frame clearance, we also drilled out the upper bush centre to accept the OEM Fazer1000 upper shock bolt, I assume this was suggested as the Fazer is a heavier bike than the R6 & the upper bolt takes all the bikes arse end weight, also top hat bushes weren't that easy to come by in the correct dimensions here in the UK, so we drilled the top bush & packed it out with stainless washers & used 130mm dog bones if memory is correct.
This gave a slight increase in ride height over the saggy OEM shock & the spring weight was pretty much bang on for most.


If you're happy with upper frame clearance & ride height & sag, then this newer R6 shock swap has paid off & done fairly cheaply.  :thumbup

5
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Powder coating the engine mount?
« on: 11 December 2023, 10:31:12 pm »
Don't use brush on smooth Hammerite, it's horrendous stuff to use, ok for wrought iron gates, even then it a proper mare to paint, just too sticky & dries too quick, suppose you could thin it & spray it.?
Smooth Hammerite in rattle cans is what I use. :thumbup


6
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Powder coating the engine mount?
« on: 08 December 2023, 07:09:46 pm »
Hi Dave.
From experience, I think it's a waste of money having owt powder coated that's likely to see a hard life from stone chipping, powder coat's too hard n brittle, chips easier than paint, I avoid freshly resurfaced roads especially the wet tar/gravel bodge jobs.


Black rattle can Hammerite is what I've used, take a while to cure tho, hot air gun any metal first & very light coats, never re-coat unless it's touch dry, leave a good 6-8hrs between coats, too cold for paint to cure at this time of year unless you have a cupboard with a heater.
Hammerite looks better than powder coat imho & far cheaper, no need to press rubber damper bushes out like you'd probly need to do with powder coating.
If you're concerned about stone chip damage, you could wrap mounting crossbar with piece of pushbike inner tube & secure with cable ties, it'll never get chipped then or even some black exhaust wrap.


I've an OEM belly pan on my thou & a carbon fibre fender extender & a stainless rad guard, all 3 are a great combo that helps stop stone chips.
If I ever come across a freshly gravelled road, I hit the anchors & do a 180.

7
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: ECU flashing
« on: 21 September 2023, 02:19:57 pm »
Easy answer, sell it & buy a proper  :faz  a (Gen1), No more jerko-matic  :lol

8
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Blue Tank Cover - Gen 1
« on: 08 September 2023, 09:36:18 pm »
Hi Gaz, I did buy some new nylon strap but the problem I have is the plastic clip that is used to secure the other end of the strap is moulded to the nylon that is stitched to the cover. I really need to find where I can buy a new clip that I could fit to my new strap then get the new strap stitched to the cover. I don’t know where to look for a new clip.


Post some pics, don't quite understand what you mean on the clip issue.

9
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Clutch
« on: 08 September 2023, 09:33:11 pm »
Hi..
Depends what u call a rattle, 1 mans rattle is another mans rumble.
If it concerns u, it needs stripping for a bit of inspection.


More than likely a wear issue, often the springs get weak in the clutch hub & rattle like crazy, this can affect most bike clutches, but could be the dreaded bung that detached from the shaft end, never seen it myself, but it does happen, I would have thought any foreign body rattling around in a clutch assembly would either lock the clutch up or stop it releasing.


Spanners out time. :thumbup

10
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Fazer 1000 ... Rattling brake pads
« on: 22 August 2023, 12:43:15 am »
Hi Peeps.


Seems Yamaha can't or won't fix this issue that plagues many models old & new.


I've found the machining clearances within Blue Spot calipers to be excessive, allowing cold pad chatter, no improvement under thermal expansion as the pad to caliper tolerances are way to large, under riding condition the pads clatter around within the caliper giving a loud click upon brake application as the front pads rotate around the single pad pin & smash into the caliper, this excessive tolerance can also cause a noticeable brake judder, this gets even worse with age & use as the caliper wears.
Rear calipers also suffer from pad rattle, but to a lesser degree.


After some trial & error & testing various ideas, I've found a permanent cure.
It's a simple solution to a PITA rattle that can plague just about any bike caliper.
It involves fabrication of 4 front shims, it's not too difficult a job, just a bit time consuming.
Pad edges need a bit of fettling to square them up.


Parts required:
0.5mm stainless sheet.
Scriber or sharp pick tool.
Quality aviation style tin snips or a plasma cutter.
Selections of files.
Vernier.
Centre punch & hammer.
Drill / drill bits.
Sanding block.
400 grit wet n dry paper.
Vice.
Lots of patience.
Stool, it's a long winded job & your back will thank you for it.

Pics show end result of shims & modified rattle springs which can be a proper mare to install, 2 pad pins make it a simpler process, strong thumbs help no end. :thumbup

11
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Experiences with Ivan Kit
« on: 22 August 2023, 12:25:31 am »
Can I just jump in here & offer some info that you may or may not be aware of ...
Been reading this long winded thread with interest, good on ya for having a go at the carb mods, albeit you've had multiple issues along the way.


Lithium batteries need a proper full charge from a Lithium spec charger prior to use, or they can never fully function as intended, also most bikes Reg/Recs especially older bikes like our Fazers were never designed to run a lithium battery, this might be where all your gremlins lie.
For this reason, I would never use a Lithium on any of my bikes, plus they have been proven to cause fires.


Might be worth swapping out the Lithium for a fully charged lead acid battery & see if there's an improvement.


You've obviously got other gremlins to diagnose, but Mike as always has given you the heads up on what to check already.




12
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Blue Tank Cover - Gen 1
« on: 29 July 2023, 01:06:21 pm »
Why not buy a length of correct width nylon strap off ebay, unpick stitching on tank cover & sew in a new length of strap, it's a pretty easy thing to do, I've made straps for loads of applications, made a load of built in securing straps for my panniers when I had a 1300 Pan yrs ago, way better than owt available from Honda & it's cheap too.
or Post it to me & I'll do a make a strap & stitch it in for ya  :thumbup

13
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Electrical gremlins, please help!
« on: 30 June 2023, 08:21:15 pm »
Oooo gremlins ... we've all had em at some point.
From experience, I would put money on alarms system has had it ... Meta/ Datatool alarm systems are crap & all fail at some point, wiring can be a pain to unpick from the loom & get things back to stock, but it can be done, IMHO it's far safer & easier to wire in your own ignition cut switch & hide it out of sight.
Youtube is your friend if ya not clued up testing with a meter ... Might be worth pulling the ignition switch & check for broken wires (continuity test from switch to loom connector under tank) "Kill" switch can also cause issues, I've had all the above at some point, hence my Meta alarm is long gone.
I also suggest starting at the front of the bike & meter test each loom plug, pull apart & check for the dreaded "Green Death" if you find any, you can pretty much scrap that connector, 2 loom plugs under left front infill trim are the main culprits for corrosion & can shut the bike down for no apparent reason. :thumbup
I totally disagree with that comment about alarms, many are incorrectly fitted and because of that give trouble. I have rarely seen a META cat one alarm fail because of internal issue outside of failed internal batteries. All with the exception of one I have been asked about was down to poor fitting. I have seen so many taped up twisted together wires fitted by so called alarm fitters and professional mechanics it defied logic. Two I have come across was failed fobs due to water ingress after owner replaced the batteries and did not reseal the fob proberly afterwards. The datatool I did not like as an alarm even though it was a good alarm. Got a few calls from fellows with presumed failure but was from interference for high frequecy radio waves from equipment nearby. Moving the bike 50 metres solved it. The earlier models like the Datatool 3 were problematic because of poor sealing and improper mounting making them very prone to faults due to vibration. I am not a professional mechanic or alarm fitter but have been working on low and high voltage elecrtic circuits and electronic since the mid eighties


Hi Unfazed.
You disagree with my opinion that alarms are crap, then list a shed load of common faults/failings associated with aftermarket alarms that most of us are aware of  :lol


You're entitled to you opinion as am I, but I've fitted plenty of alarms of both cars & bikes over the last 30 odd yrs to justify my comments that alarms are basically shit & a waste of money, there's far easier ways to immobilise a bike that don't involve fault prone electronics that fail due to battery/vibration or water ingress or like you stated, plain poor shitty installation.
Alarm internal batteries are mostly non-replaceable, hence this point alone makes them not worth fitting in the first instance, they will all die at some point, leaving some poor sod in the shit stranded miles from home.








14
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: ais removal
« on: 30 June 2023, 07:56:29 pm »
Hi ...Bit more info required so we can help further.

Did you install the Ivans jet kit?
If not then you've no proof it's actually been fitted without pulling carbs & stripping em.


 :thumbup

15
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: FZS1000 Black engines
« on: 26 June 2023, 01:08:14 pm »
I have been looking at a few FZS1000 online and not sure if this is normal or not. Some of the ones with black engine cases appear to have silver or grey cylinders. Is this right or should i be wary?


You'll only see this if motors been out for a refurb & repaint like mine.
Either all Silver or all Black motors from factory.

16
For Sale ***SOLD***


As new Bull-it (Covec) reinforced bike jeans (Black)
38 Waist / 32 Leg
Classic western 5 pocket style, boot cut leg, mesh lined, also has a quilted section in pelvic area for extra padding.
These came with low spec armour, so I upgraded to a higher spec hip & knee armour, much like D30 as it reacts to slow or fast impacts.
Button fastening at waist, zipped fly.


Just been washed, so ready to wear.
From a smoke & pet free home.


£70 posted.

17
***SOLD***
Brand New


CCDF brand.
Used once, didn't suit my motors state of tune.


£12 posted
Payment via Paypal

18
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Misted Headlight Lens
« on: 01 June 2023, 02:44:40 pm »
One of my headlight lenses is getting misted up. Does anybody have a sensible cure for this please?


The bike is kept in a warm garage but nonetheless, it should not be misting up in this weather!


Thanks


Hi ...
Do you use a pressure washer?
Ride in all weathers?
Remove headlamp bulbs & 5 mins with a hair dryer should sort it.
Garage may be damper than you think, try a dehumidifier for a few days if you have one.
I've started to get a bit of condensation in my old VFR800 headlamp, only usually see this if ridden late in the day when the temp drops, I always ride with lights on regardless on the VFR, no option on the Fazer as permanently "ON".
I've seen lamp condensation hundreds of times on cars coming thru my workshop, usually drilling a 3mm / 1/8" vent hole in the base of the lamp sorts it, most lamps do have some venting, but it's often not enough to clear any damp tapped air.

19
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re:Static balancer
« on: 03 May 2023, 11:53:45 pm »
Hi.
What I've found from experience with static balancers that the bearings drag a bit, I removed the plastic dust seals & wash out all the old grease  lube em with engine oil, it can make the difference between finding a heavy spot or not.


Is your bike tuned in any way, vibration might be from the motor, carbs set wrong, wrong jets etc, hope the crank ends not bent at flywheel side, seen a few bikes with bent crank ends from previous crash damage or ham fisted hammering to get a tight flywheel off.
Is this vibration at any particular speed? if so, does it still occur with no load (clutch in) etc?

20
Mine is also the same CCDF rotor which you have. Instead of filing it, I gave it a very light tap with a hammer and it fits very snug. Did you file it on the left or right side? If on the left the advancing might be little more than 4 degrees?


I am going the other way as you, the ignition rotor was the first mod, the rest is being done at the moment. On the stock bike it was very smooth at low rpms, I will update here once I've got the full monty done which I'm almost finished with.


What difference does it make if the rotor is magnetic or not?


Re: CCDF advancer being too tight on crank, I barely took off a few thou of material, just dressed up the key way slot to make it fit like the OEM rotor, don't forget different metals expand different amounts, so hammering a stainless rotor onto a hardened cast steel crank isn't the best idea, cranks are known to break on many bikes, even later crossplane R1's suffer crank failures.


Ooo carb mods, brings back memories, my advice is replace all the O-rings while they're apart, I think it's since been discovered, probly by Falcon that drilling only 1 bypass hole per carb is actually enough, I drilled 2 per carb as Ivan recommends, now regret not trying it with 1 hole drilled, I found Ivans mixture screw settings way too rich & the choke was ineffective & emissions smelt really rich, idled crap too, put a few miles on it, bike was drinking fuel big time, the mixture screw springs felt too weak set at Ivans settings & I was concerned about the screws vibrating out, probly wouldn't but I'm too OCD, so tried em at 4 turns out, still felt too rich & choke was barely effective, I've since reduced em to 3.25 turns out bike seems far happier & choke is now effective, starts 1st time from cold with half choke.


I also believe there's another mod (R1 cams) no info, just heard it's been done.
Let us know how you get on with the F/Monty & 4 degree advancer. :thumbup

21
Certainly not my experience with an advancer, nice improvement in the bottom end, still really smooth, I love the way the bike can pull from 30mph in 6th gear fully loaded. I can only think yours is slightly out of tolerance?


Mines an Ivans Full Monty job with ported carb mounts & airbox lid mod & pipercross, bikes a rocket & smooth as silk at all rev ranges once I'd had a play with the mixture screws, which if set as Ivan recommends, it's way too rich, maybe I should have gone with my first gut instinct & drilled only 1 hole in each carb, she's runs mint with minimal vibes now.


So me being me, I like to try new stuff, so I bought the CCDF rotor, seemed the best around on sale & seller is the actual manufacturer, part was listed as early R1 fitment, so a message to seller confirmed it can be used on the Fazer 1000 motor ... before fitting I placed it over the OEM rotor & it's identical apart from the centre hole slot is approx a 2mm difference from the OEM, I did consider filling the OEM rotor, but decided against it in the end. New 4 degree rotor needed a tiny bit of file attention to a few bits of flashing around the edges on the pick up tips, as it's clearly been stamped from a sheet of metal & not laser cut as I thought, seller stated it's a magnetic stainless rotor, it is indeed magnetic, tested before fitting, rotor also needed a tiny bit of filing on the centre hole slot as too tight a fit on the crank end ... I've given it a good 50mile blast yesterday, can defo feel the difference in grunt out of corners etc from low rpm's but it just feels too rough at low revs for my liking, ie) filtering in traffic etc is not good & too jerky, bit like an injected bike on a factory fuel map, very much like my 5th Gen VFR800fi, so after sleeping on it, OEM rotor is going back in.
May work better on a stock motor, clearly my motor aint too happy with it at low rpm's.
The old saying applies on this occasion, "If it aint broke, don't fix it".
You win some, you lose some.

22
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Experiences using a 4 degree advance rotor
« on: 03 May 2023, 09:52:39 am »
Hi Peeps.


Anyone using a 4 degree advance rotor on a 1000?
Just tried one on mine yesterday & the old girl has a tad more grunt in the lower rpm range, but not impressed in general.
It's ruined the buttery smooth bottom end & turned the motor into a jerkomatic below 3,000rpm.
Reckon i'll refit the OEM rotor later, just need to make a new gasket up.

23
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: R1 Alloy gear changer
« on: 01 May 2023, 12:17:17 am »
Hi ...
Early R1 gear change lever won't fit a Fazer 1000 which is a shame as it's a better design, upper shift arm will fit giving a shorter lever throw.
Fazer 1000 lever shift throw is small so don't see the point, tried an R1 shift arm on mine, didn't rate it, felt too wooden like it'd not shifted a gear, hence still have an as new unit in the garage in a sealed bag.
Link rod will foul the frame so will need persuading a bit.


Shift arm was quite pricey new (no longer available) & rose joint was extra, combined would have cost around £140 new, so expect to pay a good wedge for a good used unit.
Rarely see em for sale.


Found the arm for 15 euro, I think it's a good deal



..................
Lucky find  :thumbup

24
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: High speed vibrations
« on: 01 May 2023, 12:12:57 am »
Howdy ...
Have u confirmed wheels aren't buckled in any way or out of round?
Dynamic wheel balancers are far from perfect, used em for last 40yrs, on both bikes & cars, if not correctly calibrated (most aren't) you'll never balance out a heavy spot.
Personally I've found the cheap home balancer to be accurate enough, never had any vibes using one.
Did you get wheels balanced with both discs fitted, if not, there might lie the problem, any rotating mass needs to be balanced.


Check tyre is seated correctly on rim & is in fact a true/round tyre, u may have fell foul of a dud tyre.
Check fork legs aren't bent, this can put stress in the front end & mask as vibes at speed. :thumbup


25
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: R1 Alloy gear changer
« on: 24 April 2023, 10:12:45 am »
Hi ...
Early R1 gear change lever won't fit a Fazer 1000 which is a shame as it's a better design, upper shift arm will fit giving a shorter lever throw.
Fazer 1000 lever shift throw is on the long side, had one in the garage a few yrs, fitted it now & seams to improve gear selection a bit.
Shift rod needed a slight "S" bend to clear the frame rail it runs thru, I just set lever height where I wanted it, measured it from the floor while on centre stand, marked where top of rod is with a sharpie, took rod off again & put as a slight "S" bend in it & refitted.

Yamaha gear boxes aren't in the same class as Honda, very clunky/agricultural shifting from my experience, never owned a new Yamaha only used, so could be down to rough use from previous owners.
Link rod will foul the frame a bit, so will need persuading a bit.

Rarely see em for sale used & new price is crazy expensive.

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