Faulty Ignition Switch

[old son]

I am having problems turning the key in my ignition switch.  The bike is on 90,000 miles so I suppose I have had my pound of flesh! I have tried WD30, Scottoiler oil and Silicon spray.

Presumably I need to drill out the two headless bolts either side of the switch? What size drill should I use?

Does anybody have an ignition switch they would like to sell? I suppose I will end up with two keys now?

Do I need to buy the special bolts from Yamaha or do one of you guys have these to sell too?

Thanks

[Falcon 269]

Hi mate

Happy New Year to you and the family! 

IIRC, I ground the heads off the security bolts when I removed the ignition switch from mine.  Easier to work on with the top yoke removed from the bike, of course.  I used ordinary socket head bolts to fit the new ignition switch.  There's usually a lockset or two on ebay.

Cheers!

Mike

[Ben Diesel]

Had the same problem with mine on about 66k miles; but someone wiser than me suggested that because the key becomes slightly twisted through use over time, I should first try straightening the key by flattening it under pressure between the jaws of a vice. It worked for me - might be worth a try before you go through the expense and hassle of a lock change. 

[slappy]

Had the same problem with mine on about 66k miles; but someone wiser than me suggested that because the key becomes slightly twisted through use over time, I should first try straightening the key by flattening it under pressure between the jaws of a vice. It worked for me - might be worth a try before you go through the expense and hassle of a lock change.

I had to do the opposite when I had my gen1, had to slightly bend the key for it to work whilst I sourced another ignition switch.

[PaulSmith]

You could just bring the whole assembly to a locksmiths. I had to do that when I lost my 'spare' key, and not only did they cut me two new ones, they gave the lock a full service and it didn't cost very much. 

[old son]

Hi Mike, Happy New Year to you too! There are two bolts with plastic caps on, one either side of the switch looking from the top. These are the security bolts? Are these the two you ground down? Is there anything else that needs to be removed/undone to free the ignition barrel?

Ben/Slappy, tried straightening and bending the key and no luck.

Paul, its getting the whole assembly off that's the issue at the moment, how do I do that?

[Falcon 269]

It's been so long, Shaun, that I might have got this around my neck.  I'll have a look at my mate's stock Gen 1 tomorrow morning and get back to you.

[old son]

Mike, I think I have sussed this. There are two sheared off bolts underneath the ignition switch. It is these that I think have to be removed. I either remove fairing and try to do on the bike or take off top yoke as you suggest. On the hunt for an ignition switch now. I did manage to get it to turn this morning so I have bike at work. Who knows if I will get it to turn to go home!! Fingers crossed.

[PaulSmith]

The whole ignition block can be unbolted from the headstock with the ignition barrel intact, you just need to unplug it from the wiring loom under the tank. The security bolts are just to prevent the barrel from being removed from the block and a locksmith can handle them for you if necessary.

[old son]

But the bolts holding the whole ignition block on the headlock are security bolts and the heads are snapped off. In addition the easiest way to remove the bolts is to remove the headstock.

[JKay]

I had this problem recently,sprayed loads of electrical contact cleaner down the lock left it 24 hours and then sprayed graphite lock lube down it
Works fine now 

[b1k3rdude]

But the bolts holding the whole ignition block on the headlock are security bolts and the heads are snapped off.

Hence my suggestion via pm to take the yoke & ign-switch to a local dealer where they would use easy-outs to remove said bolts.

[old son]

But the bolts holding the whole ignition block on the headlock are security bolts and the heads are snapped off.

Hence my suggestion via pm to take the yoke & ign-switch to a local dealer where they would use easy-outs to remove said bolts.

That is what I am planning to do.

[b1k3rdude]

they gave the lock a full service and it didn't cost very much.

Hmm, whats not very much though..?

[PaulSmith]

they gave the lock a full service and it didn't cost very much.

Hmm, whats not very much though..?

If memory serves, it was under €50. Your mileage may very.

I will have to check the Haynes manual again but I do not remember cutting or drilling anything to get the entire ignition assembly off the bike. I remember the security bolts which held the ignition barrel in the assembly, but I left them in place for the locksmith to deal with.

[old son]

OK, I have bought a second hand lock set. The top plate is scratched so I am proposing to take my top plate off and swop the locks. Presumably I only need to unplug two connectors, remove handlebars, release suspension legs, remove large top bolt and washer and the top plate lifts off?

The replacement petrol cap is also a bit knackered. Is it possible to swop my existing lock with the new one? How does the petrol cap lock come out?

[b1k3rdude]

• The top plate is scratched so I am proposing to take my top plate off and swop the locks.
• Presumably I only need to a) unplug two connectors b) remove handlebars c) release suspension legs d) remove large top bolt and washer and the top plate lifts off?
• The replacement petrol cap is also a bit knackered. Is it possible to swop my existing lock with the new one?
• How does the petrol cap lock come out?

• easy enough, just some short m4 or m6 cap head bolts holding it in.
• a) yes b)yes c) you only need to undue to the pinch bolts for the top yoke d)large chrome nut you mean? and then yes the tope yoke just lifts off.
• yes I believe its only held in-place under the cap by 2 screws, Im sure someone else will confirm. Just be carfull when you remove it in-case there are any sprung loaded parts.
• What are you referring too..?

[old son]

• yes I believe its only held in-place under the cap by 2 screws, Im sure someone else will confirm. Just be carfull when you remove it in-case there are any sprung loaded parts.
• What are you referring too..?

[/quote]

I am referring to the petrol cap lock. I have removed the two screws but there is no obvious way to remove the barrel. It's not a major issue, I can use two separate keys but it would be nice to try and suite them all.

[b1k3rdude]

I am referring to the petrol cap lock. I have removed the two screws but there is no obvious way to remove the barrel. It's not a major issue, I can use two separate keys but it would be nice to try and suite them all.

HJmm I thought once the two screws were removed the whole lock assy came away as once piece.

I did do a google search for a howto but didn't get very far, I'm sure someone on here has removed that whole assy before now.

[b1k3rdude]

The following thread poster might be able to help -

- http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=18344.0

[old son]

Ill drop him a PM but I've taken mine apart and there is nothing obvious that needs to be removed to free the barrel. Maybe there is a circlip somewhere. I'll look again.

[b1k3rdude]

Ill drop him a PM but I've taken mine apart and there is nothing obvious that needs to be removed to free the barrel. Maybe there is a circlip somewhere. I'll look again.

Hmm got some pics..? Im wondering if the barrel is cast as part of the cap..? if so then while a bit extreme you could swap all the small barrel keys from one to the other. You'd have to do them one at a time noting the position/slot - but thats even assuming you can even get to them.

[old son]

I'll take another look this evening.

[b1k3rdude]

How goes it..?

[old son]

I stripped it down last night and I cant see any way of removing the barrel.





I have repainted the second hand unit I bought and it is now looking presentable. Think I will fit Wednesday evening.