Fitting a manual cam chain tensioner

[robbo]

After reading Devilsyam posts regarding the stock CCT's letting go, I've bought a manual one.Is it necessary to get the motor on TDC cylinder 1 before carrying out the change, or disregard this recommendation and just go ahead with the swap using the supplied screwdriver blade/key gadget?Thanks for any replies.

[PieEater]

The tensioner should have come with instructions, I don't recall them saying anything about having to get the motor on TDC cylinder 1 before fitting, and I never used the supplied tool at all. I seem to recall it was just a case of taking the old tensioner off, fitting the new one, screwing the tensioner in until it was finger tight against the guide then making a couple of turns one way or the other starting the bike up and adjusting by ear to find the sweet spot between rattle (to loose) and whoosh (too tight). Just follow the instructions that came with the tensioner, if you don't have them contact the seller.

[robbo]

Hi Pie Eater,
The instructions recommend TDC on No.1 before installing the supplied tool(like a blank key) which locks the stock tensioner,so that the distance between the tensioner face and the underside of the tensioner body can be measured.The manual one is then adjusted to match this distance before installation.Just a bit of a chore to get on TDC No1.

[devilsyam]

[PieEater]

Definitely different instructions than what came with mine then as I didn't follow the process that you've been given at all.

[devilsyam]

remove old adjuster and offer up new screw thread in on new one till face to face ie the length of new onw matches old one then back out one turn fit and follow vid

[robbo]

Thanks Luke,
After a bit of a search I found the thread you started when you first installed yours, so that will do for me.I noticed there were comments back then regarding TDC,so no doubt the manufacturer/supplier is just covering themselves.Thanks again.

[CatalinU]

A friend of mine who was a FZS gen1 asked me if I replaced the automatic cam chain tensioner with a manual one and I said no. Is this a must? And why is that?

[b1k3rdude]

if it turns out you want to fit one, I have a brand new one that was never fitted.

[BBROWN1664]

A friend of mine who was a FZS gen1 asked me if I replaced the automatic cam chain tensioner with a manual one and I said no. Is this a must? And why is that?

Do not do it. It is a bodge to try to hide an issue. The original tensioners stick a little but free themselves up with a bit of abuse. If the tensioner is at max extension, you need a new chain not a bodge to get around the tensioner being at max extension.

[PieEater]

A friend of mine who was a FZS gen1 asked me if I replaced the automatic cam chain tensioner with a manual one and I said no. Is this a must? And why is that?

The issue that lead to some of us fitting manual tensioners was because there were some (very few) reports of the manual tensioners getting stuck and allowing the chain to jump the cog leading to catastrophic engine damage. I don't think there was ever any talk of the cam chain stretching so much that the automatic tensioner was unable to cope, but happy to be otherwise educated. 99.9% of owners will never have an issue, those of us glass half empty types concerned that we will inevitably be within the unlucky 0.1% fitted a manual tensioner just to feel that bit safer, but no it definately isn't a must.

[Gnasher]

Do not do it. It is a bodge to try to hide an issue. The original tensioners stick a little but free themselves up with a bit of abuse. If the tensioner is at max extension, you need a new chain not a bodge to get around the tensioner being at max extension.

 

This was another one of those made up 'fake news' stories

Every auto tensioner on an FZS 600 or 1000 I've ever seen that so called 'failed' has been down to the owner riding style i.e. not allowing free revving, changing up way to soon allowing engine to labour, cheap oil and/or lack of oil changes which have buggered the cam chain.     

[robbo]

I do remember reading on the forum, of one owner who'd been unlucky twice with both tensioner failures wrecking the engines. That post was the reason for fitting mine, purely as a peace of mind thing, as I love my Fazer, and would be gutted for it to go bang for the sake of 35 quid, especially knowing it could have been avoided.

[kralik]

Hi all,
reading the topic, I just thinking, in case the automatic tensioner stacks, how can it be "easily" corrected, please?

[BBROWN1664]

Hi all,
reading the topic, I just thinking, in case the automatic tensioner stacks, how can it be "easily" corrected, please?

If it sticks, you get a bit of chain noise. To "fix " it, just ride the bike. Fresh oil helps, lots of revs help more.

[kralik]

Hi all,
reading the topic, I just thinking, in case the automatic tensioner stacks, how can it be "easily" corrected, please?

If it sticks, you get a bit of chain noise. To "fix " it, just ride the bike. Fresh oil helps, lots of revs help more.

ok then, thanks.
I do not think the chain is loosen, but good to know.I have put fresh oil just 2 or 3 months ago and yes, I also use to rev the engine while riding. Not too much, but sometimes I love to feel that power :-D

[Gnasher]

Get the bike fully warmed up, once a month or so, just hold it in second gear and rev it to 7- 8k for a minute or so.  Dual carriageway or motorways are excellent for this so as not to fall foul to speeding.  Alternatively just rev it to the same sort of level and gear more often but in burst every few days. Like accelerating on to a dual carriageway.

[kralik]

Get the bike fully warmed up, once a month or so, just hold it in second gear and rev it to 7- 8k for a minute or so.  Dual carriageway or motorways are excellent for this so as not to fall foul to speeding.  Alternatively just rev it to the same sort of level and gear more often but in burst every few days. Like accelerating on to a dual carriageway.

ok perfect, good to know. thanks
I will have to check the chain tension anyway, as the bike has done more than 83t kms already.