Thanks for the info & links but both of these have loads of negative feedback...anyone used them ??

Not quite sure what can go wrong with them, I suspect negative feedback is due to the usual numpties not checking they are ordering the right item / fitment or not knowing what they are doing in general.

It looks like it's 50/50 on Traditional/Motobatt - bugger! Was hoping for a positive lean one way or the other 

If money is no object Yuasa or Varta, last time I looked Motobatt were less than half the price of those which is why I went for one, having replaced my first Motobatt after just over 3 years I'd say buy cheap buy twice as a Yuasa should easily do more than 6 years if not abused. Others will definitely disagree though    so maybe toss a coin   

I've updated the FAQ - 9.000 RPM = Overturn Switch Fault (Note: This error code can in some cases be triggered by a faulty battery).

I'm not sure that the Gen1's have a reputation for throttle snatch, if this is an issue then you could make sure your chain is properly adjusted, because the Gen1 has a long swingarm the chain needs a bit more slack than most bikes. Another thing you could check is clutch adjustment, try adjusting at the engine end of the cable rather than the handlebar adjuster. Early Gen2's definitely had a problem with fuelling that caused throttle snatch, Gen1's fuelling is generally pretty good.

Thank's for the advice, does that help because the wheelbase gets shorter or because there's more pressure on the front?

It puts more weight on the front which has the effect of quickening up the steering making the bike much more flickable and predictable through corners.

I found a 25mm ride height jack-up kit and dropping the yoke down the forks gave really good results. As an experiment I tried a 50mm jack-up kit with the yoke dropped but this put too much weight on the front and made the handling worse, so I now have the 50mm kit and the yoke at the stock position which works just as well as the 25mm rise and the yoke dropped. As dropping the bike down the forks is free and doesn't take a lot of effort to do or put back to stock it's definitely worth trying just to see how you get on, don't go too far though as you may hit the mud guard under sharp braking, 10 - 15mm should be fine and make a noticeable difference to handling.

Well done, you should find the bike handles much better now, let us know how you get on.

Sorry for breaking in to this topic, does anyone know if a 2020 r6 rearshock will fit? And is there a motorcycle (any brand) that has 130mm dogbones original? I live near Boonstraparts in the Netherlands so if i know what make and model uses these i can pick them up when i need them.

Not OEM dogbone options but this UK store has dog bones available to order by size at £15 including VAT you may have something similar in the Netherlands or for something in the EU this German Ebay seller may be nearer and able to sort you out if you contact them.

Have a look here

If you want progressive springs then Hyperpro are what is generally recommended. I would however recommend linear springs based on your weight unless you specifically want progressive. Linear will offer a more predictable ride which I personally feel is important especially in corners and when riding at less than sedate speeds. I believe the OEM springs are dual rate so a kind of cross between the two but without the benefits of either. I have K-Tec linear springs in mine and are pretty happy with them.


Unfortunately I can't advise on R6 shocks, but maybe keep an eye out for 2nd hand Nitron shocks, they are pretty decent and can be serviced and resprung for your weight by Nitron if necessary.

The last MOT had a single advisory classified as dangerous..."sharp objects protruding from the front fairing" 

Seem to remember him having some spikes / horns sticking out the front, guess the tester wasn't a fan 


Edit:\ Yep you can see them in the video BBROWN posted exactly 1 minute in.

Looks very clean    If you haven't already had a look at the FAQ for the Gen1 Fazer in the sickies at the top of this section I would encourage you to do so, as a new owner you should find the information useful. I would make sure the EXUP valve is present and working correctly servicing is often neglected leading to the valves becoming seized, this may or may not be the cause of your problem but is something you should investigate early on and keep on top of. The FAQ has a link that takes you to an EXUP servicing guide.


I believe the stock jetting is lean at low revs and this will be made worse if you have a more free flowing aftermarket air filter so with stock jetting the OEM filter is recommended and may help your issue if you have an aftermarket 'performance' filter.

The Ivans kit is mainly a tap and appropriate bolts to screw into the spigots once they've been tapped, you shouldn't need to buy that as your mechanic should be able to tap them out for you, provide the bolts as well as source a cap for the carb. The only non standard part is the cap for the airbox, as has been said there are many options, it seems to be a standard size for the plastic caps on small spray bottles so not difficult to find. I also went with the Holeshot kit as it's simpler (I'm not good at tapping) and I think looks neater but it was expensive, took a while to get to me and didn't come with the rubber caps like the Ivan's kit does.

It's lower down the rev range where you will notice the benefits rather than mid range, the bike is just that bit more capable of running smoothly at low revs and pulling cleanly away. For example if you're out on fast ride and hit a 30 mph limit you can stay in top gear and accelerate back out once you're clear without downshifting. To me it makes the bike more of a capable all rounder, it's happier bimbling smoothly around country lanes at low revs with the other half on the back but if I'm out on my own and the red mist rises the bike is just as capable of getting the the adrenaline flowing.


Unless you regularly use the bike on the track or otherwise abuse it by regularly thrashing it to the red line you probably wouldn't notice any drop off in power which is at the very top end.


If you're in any doubt, an advancer is only a few quid and you could probably sell it on of you don't like it. Either way you still have a great bike so if fitting an advancer seems like too much hassle you're not hugely missing out by leaving things as they are, but given the choice I wouldn't go back to stock timing.