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Messages - PieEater
26
« on: 05 June 2023, 10:10:39 am »
Really sorry to hear about your loss having had bikes stolen in the past I know crappy it is. I've recently been pondering what I would replace my Gen1 Fazer with, like you I'm not a fan of needless electronics but I've reached the conclusion that it's going to become increasingly impossible to find bikes without rider aids as people starting out with them won't be able to develop the skills needed to ride without them, and those wanting to win the willy waving competitions down the pub would not be able to ride their 200HP bikes on the road without them as that level of power is just insane for road use. I can see why you say the T9 seems like a backwards step in terms of CCs and HP figures but the latest version with the CP3 engine seems to win everyone over for pretty much every aspect including performance and handling I wouldn't necessarily discount it without a test ride. You don't say why the Kawasaki & Suzuki offerings are a backwards step so it would be hard to recommend anything without having the same issues if we don't know what they are also your budget would help narrow down the field.
Myself, although I'd love a KTM Youtube seems full of issues with them including poor treatment by KTM UK, and TBH I'm wary of anything not Japanese in terms of reliability and overall cost of ownership. Untill anything new hits the scene I've pretty much settled on a Versys 1000 should I need to replace my Fazer, mostly as it's big enough not to make me look stupid sat on it (6'3" 20+ stone) and the top notch pillion provision will help win the Mrs over. Sure it's down on peak power but it's not always about the headline figures especially on the road.
27
« on: 03 May 2023, 10:27:23 am »
Certainly not my experience with an advancer, nice improvement in the bottom end, still really smooth, I love the way the bike can pull from 30mph in 6th gear fully loaded. I can only think yours is slightly out of tolerance?
28
« on: 03 May 2023, 09:41:30 am »
I am curious, what difference does it make when measuring valve clearances if the cam lobe is 180 degrees opposite the bucket but the piston is not at TDC? Is it just that the TDC mark ensures that the cam lobe is at the correct spot to take the measurements?
29
« on: 19 April 2023, 06:34:07 pm »
I'd suggest the Datatool alarm as being the issue, they have non-replaceable integrated batteries which have a limited lifespan, it would be best to get it removed if it was OEM as if it isn't the problem now it will become one later. Checking the electrical connectors is a good shout, look for any obvious corrosion and shorts, I've gone through mine with a can of electrical contact cleaner followed by ACF50, often it's not inside the blocks but behind them where they join the block that corrosion sets in so make sure to check and treat outside as well as inside the blocks. Under the tank there is a white connector block which is a weak spot, it's not really up to the current that gets put through it, so put this on the top of your list to check. Also your battery may be the issue, a charger can indicate a fully charged battery if it is able to sustain 12v but a battery with a dead cell can do this but not provide the amperage to power the starter. Hope that helps, post back as and when you have news.
30
« on: 12 April 2023, 11:36:12 am »
Lovely bike, tweeked the photo for you to show it off a bit better 
31
« on: 23 March 2023, 07:11:30 pm »
What did you have previously, were you happy with them or how could they have been improved, what's your budget? I'm a big fan of Avon Storm 3DXM for confident riding through the twisties at a reasonable price but they are not so great in the wet from what I've heard but as a fair weather rider that doesn't bother me.
32
« on: 11 February 2023, 10:55:41 am »
As you've disturbed the plug caps I think it might be worth unscrewing them and trimming the HT leads by enough so that when you screw the plug caps back on they are going into fresh lead, the ends are known to deteriorate over time and not connect properly, so this could fix your problem.
If the two cylinders that are not firing are being fed by the same coil you might need to check / clean the connections etc.
33
« on: 11 February 2023, 10:46:21 am »
I've used Iridium plugs with no issues. As you've disturbed the plug caps I think it might be worth unscrewing them and trimming the HT leads by enough so that when you screw the plug caps back on they are going into fresh lead, the ends are known to deteriorate over time and not connect properly, so this could fix your problem.
34
« on: 09 February 2023, 05:34:54 pm »
I had my bike put on the Dyno after it had the Ivans kit fitted the technician said the fuelling was "perfect". 
35
« on: 03 November 2022, 11:00:55 pm »
Put it on E Bay
So you can buy it  Does anyone have any advice on what would be best for me to do? I got the bike from a main dealer, and it really doesn't want for anything else. I look forward to hearing from you all  P.S Photo below
You'll regret selling it so I'd hang on to it for as long as possible, there may come a time where you have to sell it because you need the money but equally circumstances might change where you are able to afford to keep it.
36
« on: 25 September 2022, 03:08:05 pm »
I'm now loving this bike 😁😁
Good Job, there is definitely a lot to love about a sorted Gen1
37
« on: 21 September 2022, 08:18:20 am »
So the bush should just slide into the headers, shouldn't be a tight fit as standard?
As b1k3rdude said grease the inside and outside of the internal bush with copper grease so it sticks on the spindle and it will slide into housing with no force required. It helps if you shine a torch into the exup port so you have a visual image of where you need to insert the spindle.
38
« on: 18 September 2022, 11:41:32 am »
It might be useful to compare cost of ownership of both in terms of reccomended service intervals and costs. I have a Nitron shock and the difference in feel and handling between before and after a service is very noticeable so is worth keeping on top of, although admittedly I don't get mine done as often as I should. Nitron have the costs of their service options on their site I'm not sure about Hyperpro.
39
« on: 24 August 2022, 09:14:51 am »
@bazza It may be worth you reading through the Gen1 FAQ as it has suggestions on improving handling as well as a link to a method to free seized compression damping adjusters
40
« on: 19 August 2022, 10:34:03 am »
I can't remember why but I (or someone) asked Yamaha this question and was told it's to stop the fan blades warping from heat coming off the exhaust headers.
41
« on: 01 August 2022, 03:49:06 pm »
Don't forget there are two bleed nipples on the rear caliper and you'll need to bleed through both if you think air has gotten into the system.
42
« on: 27 July 2022, 01:26:22 pm »
The inlet rubbers are known to start looking cracked over time but this is usually superficial and doesn't impact on performance. Are you certain they need replacing?
44
« on: 18 June 2022, 03:15:56 pm »
To be honest I've never heard of anyone saying that their valves were out of tolerance when checking. I remember someone replacing some shims just so that the clearances were in the middle of the range but this was because they wanted to rather than needed to. Of course your bike may be the exception but in all honesty I would enjoy the summer and contemplate your options come winter. In preparation it would be good to look for some feeler gauges with a narrow taper and that are in the upper, lower and middle of the ranges so you don't have to faff around with multiple feelers to get to the size you want.
45
« on: 09 June 2022, 06:04:55 am »
From the Gen1 FAQ;
If you are planning on checking the valve clearances yourself (26,600 mile intervals) a service manual such as those from Haynes & Clymer is always recommended but there are a number of points you should be aware of.
- Firstly as partial removal of the AIS system forms part of the process you should plan on using this opportunity to completely remove the AIS, if it hasn't already been junked.
- Secondly if the service manual tells you to remove the carbs as part of the process (as per Mr Haynes) then this isn't necessary.
- Thirdly it isn't necessary to remove the timing cover in order to find TDC as long as the cam lobe is directly opposite the valve bucket you are checking then this is sufficient, putting the bike in gear and rotating the rear wheel will allow you to rotate the cams.
- Lastly the exhaust valve clearances are 0.21mm to 0.30mm some manuals will say that he upper tolerance is 0.25mm, (thanks to forum member Unfazed for this information), the intake clearances are 0.11mm to 0.20mm.
46
« on: 20 May 2022, 02:06:36 pm »
The owners manual states that the bulbs are 12v 60/55w most replacement H4 bulbs will fall into that. Personally I would be looking at the Philips X-tremeVision Pro150 as they offer a good balance of brightness, white levels and longevity. The RacingVision GT200's are brighter (200% vs 150%) and slightly whiter (3500k vs 3400k) but have a significantly reduced lifespan (250 vs 450 hours) both are 55w so should be fine for the Fazer.
47
« on: 09 May 2022, 05:30:52 pm »
Yeah sorry I didn't realise that you had a Gen2 either, hope you get it resolved OK. In the meantime I've updated the Gen1 FAQ with some information about this issue and the link to Marksman that SkidT provided.
48
« on: 07 May 2022, 09:48:43 pm »
Thanks dude there that's just what I was looking for, pretty cheap too, bookmarked it will buy it later 👍
Let us know how you get on.
49
« on: 07 May 2022, 08:45:55 pm »
I would ask your tester to confirm if the knock was felt moving the swingarm up and down or side to side. Some up and down knock is standard on Gen1 Fazers and is only felt when the bike is on the centre stand and there is some play at the rear wheel when lifting it up, when the bike is on the road any slack is taken up and it honestly is a non issue. If the knock was side to side then yes it would be worthwhile looking at the bushes and bearings but I somehow doubt this would be the case. Entirely up to you how you pursue this, when I first took my bike to be MOT'd the tester gave me an advisory for the same issue but after explaining to him that the Fazer has a fairly long swingarm and that some free up and down play at the rear wheel when no load was on the bike was usual he has never given me a further advisory in the 11 years since. if you do look at stripping the linkage for inspection or to replace parts some have reported torqueing the bolts back up with the bike on the side stand reduces the inherent free play but I don't think you will ever eliminate it.
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