good point Fazersharp, dunno might be wise to sling them and replace after 2 or 3 years
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I have a wind proof fag lighter for lighting my tabs when riding. lol
Barry Sheen had a hole drilled in the front bottom of his full face bucket so he could have a fag while waiting on the grid for all the other bikers to fall into place behind him. Good ole Bazzer.


Ps: I don't really have a wind proof fag lighter, I just struggle with matches.

I was down at Loomies cafe (Hampshire) one day the summer before last and a guy with a Honda (yeah I know but someones got to own one) had a Phillips headed screw in his back tyre. The screw head was in flush with the tread, he was about 30 odd miles home. A Guy named Chris had a BMW sports tourer had a plug repair kit with him and he repaired the Honda back tyre,it took him about 4 minutes to do. Chris had compressed air cartridges and an adapter to blown the tyre up, so the guy could get to the nearest filling station to fully inflate the tyre to the right pressure. I went out and bought one of the kits myself as I was so impressed with it.


I also fitted a waterproof cigarette type lighter (Great for the Sat Nav , Compressor, and charging my phone) in my Fazer fairing and bought a small air compressor. these all fit under my fazer saddle along with the standard tool kit and my disk lock and a pair of light weight water proof trousers.
Jobs a Gudun 

How much do you want for that meat pie? looks tasty

You should get one Fazersharp it will give you something to grip on to when corning really hard

As Sinto said (Slightly paraphrased) Whoever did that wiring job wants F-----g with the rough end of a pineapple.
As stated by Sinto, do a proper job, always solder and shrink fit, but do remember to slip a length of shrink fit down the wire on one side of the joint before you solder, (done that a couple of times), the other thing is make sure the shrink fit is far enough away from the joint before applying a hot solder iron.
One thing always worth checking after checking the obvious (Blown Bulbs) is the multi connectors, I had one under the fairing inner cover on the left hand side of my Foxeye FZS 600, my headlamps just went out nearly caused serious accident one night riding down a country lane, but for the quick thinking of a cage driver it could have ended up a much different story. Anyway the offending multi connector (White Plastic) is under that fairing inner cover, water gets into it and causes corrosion, it took some finding because the lights came back on after an hour or so. Intermittent faults are the worse. I cut the offending wires tight to the connector and did a solder heat shrink repair by-passing the connector and it has been fine for 2 or 3 years now. There are 8 or 10 pairs of wires that go to that connector and four pairs had the internal pins corroded almost away, also it is worth cable tying the two halves of the connector together and giving the a blast of WD40 after repairs have been made.
Hope you sort out your lights.

Tommy

LMFAO. love the sticker

Oh shit! Just watched the 125 trounce the big boys, I feel exhausted after watching that video through, I think i will have a lay down.

It really is not advisable to use ordinary engine oil in your bike, most modern car oil has additive like molybdenum and other additives these act as extra lubricants and will eventually cause wet clutches to slip.
You might be lucky cleaning the clutch plates out after you have given the engine a complete flush out, but more often than not they will need replacing as they get a burnt on shellac like substance caused by the slippage.


Best spend a tenner more on some quality oil and save yourself a fortune and a lot of hassle, plus down time for the bike.
I personally use Shell Advance and found it to be reliable and it some how stays cleaner than other oils I have used, also it has no additives what so ever so completely detergent free. 




Keep the shiny side up and the greasy side down.
Tom

Thought I would post this as it was a problem I had with Head lights a cople of years ago on my 2003 Foxeye FZS 600.

I saw a post from you re: headlamps not or stopped working, I had a similar problem with my 2003 Foxeye FZS 600, the headlights would go out and other strange things happen in the Speedo Tacho area, one of the clocks stopped working, the problem was intermittent the next time i switched the lights on they would work sometimes for a few hours and sometimes just for a few minutes and again sometimes not at all. I spent hours under the seat and tracing the wiring through right from the battery back to rear lamp (Wasn't sure which way headlamps were fed) and eventually found the culprit under the left hand side (As your sitting on the bike) of the front fairing inner black cover (Held on by three screws) one screw by the clocks, one on the outside rear or the fairing and one on the black inner fairing cover towards the rear. under there is a white coloured multi electrical connector. I don't recall exactly how many wires are entering and exiting it but between 8 and 10 would be my guess, anyway water gets into this connector and the pins and sockets inside it corrode and cause intermittent connection problems, some of the connections were still ok but the corroded ones (4 of them 8 ends) I cut the wires tight either side of the connect itself, bared 1/2 inch of wire on the two loose ends of each wire slipped a 3" length of shrink fit over one end of each pair, soldered the wires together and covered with the shrink fit and heated with a match to shrink it down to a tight fit on the wires. I did this on the four pairs of wires (All coloured matched so should not make any mistakes) I also run a cable tie around the two parts of the connector to hold them together and sprayed it with WD 40. that was three years ago and have had no problem with it since.


I hope this is useful and helps, if this does not turn out to be relevent to your lights issue its still worth knowing, as you may be able to help someone else if they have the problem that I had.


Keep the shiny side up and the greasy side down.
Tom

Agrees with YamFazFan on the headlight bulb replacement issue. my box is a MR2 Spider and I have to anticipate a head lamp failure about 4 months in advance so I can go on a strict diet to lose about 1\2 lbs per finger to get anywhere near the bulb holder let alone release the F-----g thing, and my fingers seem to be about 2 inches shorter that the gangley sod who designed the car.
To replace the side lamp bulbs a Toyota engineer said the easiest way is to remove the front bumper and front panel to get to the bottom headlamp shell fixing screw remove the shell to replace the bulb.
Seems like an easy option Doh!
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sorry about all the [[ size []font shit in the last post, I'm a newbe in here and to be honest hav'nt a clue what I'm doing as yet.
Tommy

Hi NotAnotherHill,


Just a thought on sticking front disc brakes, especially as you cleaned and sorted them out after last outing.
I have a MR2 Spider (Yuk 4 wheels) and had exactly the same problem with the driver side front brake sticking as the car has done 80,000 mile I decided to do a complete overhaul of the brakes.
I fitted four new discs, new disc pads all round and replaced both the front calipers as the pistons were pitted, although the caliper was moving fine on the slider pins (Floating calipers)
Lubed up the slider pins with silicone grease, a smear of Copper slip between the pad shims and pads and on top of the shims where brake piston contact is. I thought that has to cure it, but Oh! no that brake was still binding to the point that it made the disc really hot and the pads on that wheel stank after about 5 miles.
I did an internet search and found a link that said one of the main causes of brakes binding on older vehicles is caused by the rubber on the inside of flexible brake pipes braking down with age, apparently the rubber can start to laminate on the inside of the pipe and a flap can block the oil/fluid way, when applying the brakes the pressure exerted by the master cylinder will force the lamination/flap of rubber out of the way but the rubber can be drawn back down as the brake fluid is drawn back to the master cylinder and block the pipe causing the brakes to stick. If you find the brake sticking after applying the brakes leave the bike for a couple of hours and try spinning the front wheel again if it spins fine then there is a real possibility that the problem is brake pipes braking down, as a jammed piston is a jammed piston and usually will not release itself.


Just a thought.
Good luck with sorting the problem out.


PS: I'm sure you already know but don't use mineral grease anywhere near the piston seals or other rubber brake parts, use  silicone grease or red rubber grease this is on slider pins as well. Mineral will rot out the concertina rubbers and seals.