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Messages - kebab19
26
« on: 30 November 2021, 08:17:59 pm »
1998-99 bikes had rear footrest holders that positioned the pillion pegs quite high up. You may wish to swap the rear footrest holders for the 2000 onwards version - the pegs will be noticeably lower and pillion knee bend will not be as unpleasant
27
« on: 01 November 2021, 10:18:48 am »
I think the leak was coming from the outlet on the cylinder wall. I removed the pipe and expected fluid to run from the spigot. Instead it ran out of the pipe I had removed. Surely the water jacket around the pistons should be higher than the spigot level?
Do you mean the drain port hole half way up cylinder number one? I recall reading on the FZ1OA site about a few people who've had coolant dribbling out of there. I'd been lurking on their site a decade ago as my first 1000 had major coolant problems due to a blown waterpump (was that way when I bought her, never spotted it till first long ride out). When you say you ran her for 30 mins without an issue, did you mean running her gently or giving the bike some stick? My old 1000 behaved fine until about 4000rpm then blew the coolant out past the thermostat cap once under pressure. Hopefully problem will not reappear but keep an eye on her...
28
« on: 25 October 2021, 12:09:12 pm »
Hi does anyone know where I can get a modded R6
Shock ready to fit to my Fazer 600? Not sure if someone on here
Still does these or not ?
Hello, sold my FZS600 in 2017 along with all the spare kits needed for shock conversion. There might however be another FZS600 coming my way and if one arrives in my garage, I'll be looking into getting a few more shock conversion kits made up, as well as sorting out the front forks with emulators. In the meantime, if you find someone with access to a lathe, the dimensions of all the parts needed are on the thread
29
« on: 07 September 2021, 07:00:48 pm »
The Sweep / pullback of the 758 bars feels comfier (to me). I also tapped mine out & fitted heavier FJ1200 bar ends to minimise the vibes.
30
« on: 07 September 2021, 08:20:46 am »
I would raise the seat rather than lower the footpegs.
I lowered the pegs, changed the seat and raised the bars. Whatever kit you go for, the adjustment range of the rear brake lever is probably the limiting factor - it won't like adjusting more than an inch so I went with 25mm lower pegs. https://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=25862.msg308095#msg308095Edit: Ooops, mine's the 1000  but you get the idea
31
« on: 01 September 2021, 01:22:01 pm »
They will almost probably run fine on E10, but likely accelerate the failure of the wee rubber O-ring parts inside the carbs. I suspect those carb overhaul kits are about to shoot up in price...
32
« on: 31 August 2021, 12:36:42 pm »
2008 onwards, with the combined compression adjuster at the top (blue inner, gold outer). Avoid the 2006-07 version with two separate compression adjusters
33
« on: 26 July 2021, 11:06:44 am »
An alternative to lowering the bike would be to get the seat re-profiled so you are sat lower but I don't know how much that would affect comfort.
The main issue is the width of the seat, particularly at the front where seats are often tapered. Even with her lowered you may still find her a bit of a challenge as the wide seat forces the legs slightly outwards. At 5' 8" and with a 29" inside leg, mine has a reworked (slightly lower) seat, forks up through the yokes 10mm and dogbones that drop the back end a fraction, probably around 6mm. You could also shave the rubber seat bungs underneath the seat to lose another couple of millimetres in seat height.
34
« on: 26 July 2021, 10:51:33 am »
Rule out all possible non-suspension parts first.
Since you've replaced the entire front end including the yokes, one strong possibility is whether the steering head bearings have been torqued to correct spec - massive change to the bike's feel if they haven't. Did you / someone else tighten head bearings using a torque wrench? In my experience not using one can be challenging to get 'just right'.
Was there juddering before the front-end switch/ fitment of radial m/c? If not, then something new that's been fitted could be causing your problem. Check that brake pad wear is 'straight' & that all front brake pistons are moving freely. Check your brake discs aren't warped (although you'd probably feel the front brake lever pulsing slightly when you pull on it).
After that, it could be down to fork damping. Did you use standard 5w(?) fork oil and standard oil level within the forks? Compression damping - ease it off (anticlockwise) by three or four clicks & go ride her to see if the juddering when braking eases off or if it gets worse.
35
« on: 17 July 2021, 01:29:36 pm »
Dunno how experienced you are at this but start with standard setup:
From the 4VX Service Manual:Front Fork travel 135mm
Preload (roughly)- you'll need a friend to help. No point going the manual's advice on fork cap preload rings showing as you've changed the springs. Cable tie around lower stanchion. Adjust preload rings on top of the fork so that when you sit on the bike it only compresses by one third max (45mm) meaning you have two thirds of spring travel left to deal with bumps. You need a friend to measure the sag as you have to do it whilst you're sitting on the bike.
Rebound (top fork cap inner adjusters). Turn all the way in (clockwise) until no more clicks / goes tight - this is towards the firmest setting. Maximum (firmest) is one click back out (anticlockwise), minimum is 13 clicks out and standard is 5 clicks out.
Compression - adjusters on lower part of forks - Maximum (firmest) is one click out (anticlockwise), minimum is 11 clicks out and standard is 5 clicks out.
Go for a ride, see how she feels & report back if it feels way off...
36
« on: 06 July 2021, 09:17:12 am »
Depressingly familiar... my first FZS1000 exhibited the same sort of behaviours. It boiled all the coolant away within my first proper rideout, I still remember the red engine light coming on 30 miles from home! Had to fill radiator with water (I know) and limped home under 4000 rpm to stop remaining water blowing out of the coolant system. Replaced waterpump, thermostat cap, main coolant pipes, cylinder head (precautionary as couldn't see any cracks) and the radiator to get rid of the problem... £700 to do it all myself with all new Yammie gaskets but guess I learned quite a few new things working on her.
Concerned that more of these old lumps will fail the same way, as like ourselves they're not getting any younger...
37
« on: 23 June 2021, 10:45:13 am »
Ah right, fair enough.
38
« on: 22 June 2021, 09:39:29 am »
I could be v. interested in the screen, Tommy - do you have the height & width dimensions?
39
« on: 20 April 2021, 05:13:02 pm »
From memory, I think the late Luke/DevilsYam stated that the 2017 shock didn't fit - think it was the height of the reservoir. Stick to the 2008-2016 version, plenty of them around.
40
« on: 03 April 2021, 07:49:34 pm »
Link below is what you need to form decent comparisons between two different sets of Renthal bars: https://www.renthal.com/worksfit/I experimented using 755s with 20mm risers. 755s appear slightly higher than the 754s. The (standard) front brake line proved to be the problem, had a braided set made up an inch longer than standard. But... regarding the additional sweep(back) of the 755s, I found they really aggravated my forearms a bit after 100+ miles. I also agree with the idea of using 758s with additional risers under them - far less sweep so easier on the arms. Downside is you have to lean forward more to get to them than the likes of 754/755s, depends which discomfort you prefer  I currently have 4 inch longer control cables, 758 bars with FZ1 risers (extra inch of height) plus 30mm risers which gives me an about an extra 2.5 inches of height over the standard setup. Just about perfect now for me, of course handling suffers beyond triple digit speeds but no longer interested in pushing that particular envelope on the roads...
42
« on: 02 February 2021, 07:31:39 am »
...and there's your sticky. - OEM if you can afford them
- SBS street Excel HH or EBC FA252 HH if you can't.
Joking aside, I think there are other decent HH pad manufacturers such as Brembo, but I've only used the three above and have never felt the need to try any others
43
« on: 21 November 2020, 07:53:07 pm »
Either: EBC FA252HH or FA380HH sets of pads or SBS street excel sintered.You'll find others cheaper but IMO nowhere near as good. Have just switched back to SBS myself, have to wear the new pads in tomorrow 
44
« on: 29 October 2020, 09:34:46 am »
It's up on ebay for £5,000 too!
Please tell me they aren't the original ME4 tyres still on it... could be getting your knees and body down on your first ride home.Is it a 'bitsa' - bits of a minter mixed with a dog?
46
« on: 05 October 2020, 07:05:16 pm »
Ok thanks, understood probably.Just thinking, if you are 80kg with gear and I am about 100 with gear, then I should probably go with 10N spring, right?Do not you know what rate is the standard R1 spring?
No, 10.0 would be way too firm for your weight, 9.0 or 9.5 would be more suited to your weight. If you're doing track days in the fast group or always carrying a pillion or even lots of luggage, go for 9.5 springs. But for normal road use, I'd opt for 9.0 springs if I were you.
47
« on: 16 September 2020, 03:52:47 pm »
Ah, the paint scheme known as the Skunk across the Atlantic Rare indeed! Looks well, GLWS
48
« on: 11 September 2020, 04:40:19 pm »
Boxeye or Foxeye fairing?
If it's a Foxeye, I think the FZS100 fairing could be made to fit with modifications?If it's a Boxeye, does the fairing need to be undamaged or just complete? I have a Boxeye front in the garage but big frankenstein splits - would need a fair bit of repair.
49
« on: 03 August 2020, 07:16:05 pm »
Thanks all, I suspect as we all age we may have to resort to such mods to keep riding comfortably @ Bikerdude - despite being relatively short-of-leg, I have to admit I was considering moving to an early 'Cylon-eyed' Versys 1000 or a 2014-16 Vstrom 1000 before altering the old bus, but I'm hoping these mods have delayed or negated such a move. I've yet to test the new screen setup above 90 or in strong crosswinds  or indeed cover decent distances, but my initial 60 mile rideout was very positive. Have a four day, 1000 mile tour of Scotland coming up soon (barring another lockdown) will feed back findings after it.
50
« on: 31 July 2020, 02:20:14 pm »
So, finally got on top of the windblast problem with the handlebar-mounted Mephis Shades Hell Cat screen. The look doesn't really integrate but it's the only screen I've had so far that works well on this bike: should be able to do more than 200 miles now without feeling beaten up. Will add my X-creen on top to regulate any residual top-of-helmet turbulence. 
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