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Topics - dcurzon
1
« on: 25 October 2018, 10:42:31 pm »
Got a box eye headlight unit sat in the garage if anyone can make use of it.
Would be ideal for a HID conversion and retaining your original headlight unit also.
How does £55 posted sound?
2
« on: 09 May 2017, 02:21:16 pm »
Boxeye headlight unit. All bolt tabs in place.
Ideal for doing a HID conversion.
Collect from Harlow, Essex, or might be able to post.
£25
3
« on: 09 May 2017, 02:15:07 pm »
Givi Maxia, think it's E52 model possibly? 2 keys. Collect from Harlow, Essex Revised: on eBay, no reserve. Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391779167152
4
« on: 25 April 2017, 12:57:23 am »
Output shaft stripped it's thread...
Plus points:
Properly fitted HID projectors (new bulbs fitted)
2014 r6 shock
Pr4 front less than 500 miles
Bt23 rear less than 750 miles
Givi rack
Bar risers
Heated grips (worn but work)
SS headers
K&N air filter
Scottoiler
3 months mot remaining.
Bad points:
Stripped output shaft.
Top fairing is a bit knocked up but functional
Engine has 90k but has been as good as gold.
I'm the 2nd owner and always used k&n air and oil filters and regular oil changes.
Located in Essex, 5 mins off m11.
£450
5
« on: 29 March 2017, 08:56:40 pm »
My 90k old '99 was making the odd rattle, so today, having just shelled out on tyres, I decided to check, and look and behold, the front sprocket nut had spun loose and Stripped the shaft. (Yes it was the newer type nut).
Options?
Or break the bike?
It's my work horse :/
6
« on: 18 October 2014, 04:42:43 pm »
As I went up the slip road, there was no pressure on my clutch lever as I went to drop through the gears. Managed to slip into neutral and onto the side. 3 out of 5 bolts had at some point rattled loose and gone, and the remaining 2 were loose!
(Left side sprocket cover), so when I was trying to pull the lever, the casing was moving instead of moving the clutch.
Tightened up the remaining 2 bolts and was able to get home.
Where can I get these bolts??
Cheers
7
« on: 13 October 2014, 11:40:20 am »
Partly inspired by this thread http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,11998.0.html , and also other circumstances... i thought yeah why not have a bash at that! Due to injuries i've sustained in the past, i think i pretty much have a small window of opportunity to be able to get the crazy shit done, so grabbing life with both hands whilst i can  Here's my latest blog entry: http://www.curzonweb.co.uk/2014/10/13/wcbl-week-3/Got about 7 weeks until showtime. Boom! Quick promo vid i knocked up (requires the audio) 
Event will be in Camden, London. Date TBC (will be either 6th or 13th December). Ticket only event, if anyone fancies popping along to see what its all abaaaht then tap me up for a ticket
8
« on: 09 October 2014, 04:09:42 pm »
Fuel low light used to work... would come on at around 195 if i been good, 170ish if i was less good... ;
now it doesnt come on at all! Did a risky 200 miles and still no light. Filled up 16.something litres at that point ('99 FZS600, 18l tank i think? ).
any indicators on what i should be looking at or testing? Fuel guage still works the same.
cheers
9
« on: 08 October 2014, 11:20:49 am »
http://youtu.be/vPlBd1OhY3s
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/vPlBd1OhY3s" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> gah!!! help!!!
10
« on: 25 September 2014, 05:22:36 pm »
Noticed this yesterday, may have been happening for a while but i really dont know...
From my sidelight connector, i also have feed to some LED running lights.
If my lights are OFF... putting either the front or the rear brake on, the dash illuminates and my sidelights/LED's come on. Release the brake and they go off.
If the lights are ON, then there are no adverse effects. Brake lights still come on and off correctly.
Any recommendations of a good starting point to attack with the multimeter?
Cheers
11
« on: 15 August 2014, 10:37:48 am »
These are 'roo skin leathers, rrp of around £850. Have seen the same on Ebay at £295 (used). My ones are much faster! These are grey/black. They have a few scuffs here and there, but they are an awesome set of leathers, with removable lining etc. here's a link to flickr: https://flic.kr/p/eDcT2hThese would fit 5'7 - 5'11 slim/med build. I have put on a few stone since, and they're a little too snug for me now. They are in Harlow, Essex, so that is where they will need to be collected from. Price - £150 no offers.
12
« on: 30 June 2014, 03:59:45 pm »
Any interest? Black Sabbath is friday, McBusted is sunday. Hyde Park
13
« on: 30 April 2014, 12:33:18 pm »
Hi all
Anyone got an exhaust link pipe knocking around for a slip on can?
cheers
14
« on: 24 March 2014, 01:07:40 pm »
Went to take the bike to work today, wheeled it out of the garage, started her up, clutch in, 1st gear, all ok. Clutch out and nothing! Bike was running, but the clutch wasn't doing anything, it was like i had the clutch lever held in.
Parked it up and took the car, so no major drama.
During the week, i'd decided to adjust the clutch cable at the engine end, as i was almost out of adjustment at the lever. I took the sprocket cover off and had a look in there, and realised that was not the way to do it! Put the cover back on, founf the adjuster cover, popped that off. Slackened the nut, tightened the screw, backed it off a touch and tightened the nut.
Sounds simple enough, but could i have fugged something up along the way?
15
« on: 03 February 2014, 03:12:42 pm »
I have picked up an SJ1000 cam, which from here on i'll refer to as 'gypsy cam', as a poor mans gopro!
Previously, i had lots of dogcamsport bulletcam equipment, and it did the job well, but had a lot of bulk (batteries, recorders, cables and so on) so i understand why the all in one box has such appeal. The roblem i'm facing, is mounting it without getting godawful vibrations. This is no doubt made worse by the gypsycam cheap plastic mounts, which have a lot of flex in them.
So who has mounted gopro and successfully eliminated the vibration/shake issues? I can easily convert the gypsy waterproof case to accept gopro mounts, or it can use the standard 1/4" bolt thread tripod mount thing.
What do you use?
Incidentally, the picture quality on the gypsycam is superb, but really spoiled by the vibration issues.
16
« on: 03 February 2014, 12:59:03 pm »
???
17
« on: 27 January 2014, 03:03:19 pm »
FZS600 headlights. Rubbish! Sharks, Great! So having dabbled with setting the rhs to do dual beam, then upgrading the halogens to Osram Nightbreaker, then moving to HID, i'm still not moved by the headlights. Whilst so far, HID has been the best of the bunch, the light is rather spattered everywhere with very little control. So i bought a spare headlamp assembly, with the intention to start trying projectors. I spoke to a company in the Netherlands about a loom, and they think that good projectors wont fit without a little modification to the headlamp. So i've sent them the headlamp. They are going to do the fitting including any modifications that need to be made. This way, they can offer a kit complete with any modifications, specifically for the 98-02 box eye. Mistake #1. Box was a little large and i got clobbered on the postage as it put the weight to just over 2kg. Under 2kg would have been much cheaper. Anyhow, if you want to see sme of their work, this is a z750-z1000 headlamp that they had to make a custom kit for:
Step 1 completed - Send headlamp unit away.
18
« on: 22 January 2014, 08:55:49 am »
I replaced my air filter recently, to a K&N. Primarily because i'm quite lazy and dont want to have to keep changing filters every 6000 miles or whatever the interval should be... it was £32 give or take. an OEM filter is somewhere in the region of a tenner, so assuming i do 12,000 miles a year, it would take me 18 months to recoup the cost of the filter.
But my MPG has gone up, from 54mpg to 57mpg. Again, assuming 12,000 miles per year and fuel at 129.9, that's a saving of £69.07 in 12 months... Or, across the same period of 18 months, £104.
So a £32 outlay for me over an 18month period saves £104 (18 months fuel, break-even on the filter)
50,000 miles (4 years) before the K&N needs servicing, in that mileage, i should save £287.78 in fuel, plus 8 air filter changes.
So if anyone is undecided wether to fit a K&N or not, hopefully the figures would suggest that it is worth the initial cost.
* i also replaced my tyres, which may also contribute to the mpg increase
19
« on: 15 January 2014, 05:08:14 pm »
As a little sideline, i used to make numberplates. Legal or show plates. Then i had a child and found i didnt have as much time to do it, so i let it slip.
But i still have all the equipment and the blank plates, and a little more time on my hands (not much), so i'm considering starting it up again.
I just need to guauge the level of interest, as i would need to lay down a reasonable amount of ££'s for software licensing. Fortunately i dont need to pay out on blanks as i have a box ready.
So, would anyone be interested in a lovely shiny plate? lets say around a tenner for a motorcycle plate as a ball park figure. Maybe I could do a 'FOC-U plate' with FOC-U.co.uk in the tag line and the yamaha logo ghosted in the background if thats what people want?
20
« on: 11 January 2014, 06:20:13 pm »
Fitted my hot grips today, piggy back fuse on the turn signal, 5a fuse in the piggy back plus the inline 5a on the live wire. Whilst I was at it, I fitted 2 led strips and wired them into the hotgrips power cabling, £2.95 on eBay. Somewhat overpowered by the headlights but I have some side coverage with the DRL's so more chance of being seen. All seems to work ok
21
« on: 23 December 2013, 07:50:31 pm »
When I was doing the bulbs in my clocks a few weeks back, I noticed a relay looking thing tucked in behind the clock. Just wondering what it actually is and what it does?
Cheers
22
« on: 23 December 2013, 12:33:00 pm »
Found some on eBay at what seems a reasonable 20 sovs. Anyone tried fitting these before? Worth trying or not?
23
« on: 09 December 2013, 04:57:27 pm »
Due to an ongoing back problem, looks like i might need to rise my bars a little. Going price for a set of risers seems to be around £30 - which seems a lot for a couple of alloy blocks  Anyone else done this, and what problems did you face regarding cable lengths etc? thanks (point to note: i dropped my yoke 12mm down the forks for handling, dont wish to raise this due to large top box on rear. Just want to rise the bars a bit)
24
« on: 28 October 2013, 04:46:23 pm »
25
« on: 28 October 2013, 12:08:58 pm »
Hi, ok, not my first post, but hello anyways! Been a long time biker, seen some things, done... stuff... but took a 5 year break from the bikes. But, fed up of £250-300 / month train commuting, I picked up a '99 Fazer, 1 owner from new, 44k on the clock. Not in bad shape actually, runs well, but needs the 'touch'.... First few weeks were a bit wobbly but now nearly a couple of months in and getting back to speed. Speed... ah yes! Well, i'll never be as quick as i was! Isn't that the old saying? Anyway, i digress... 50 mile round trip daily Essex > London > Essex and enjoying it! These fazer lights are pretty shit though eh? Dual beam mod done, Osram's installed, and yes, improved! But not great. Think i may go HID. Or maybe not... i dunno. Part of the bigger picture here is to keep the costs right down to a minimum, else it'll be just like catching the train again! Either way, i need to see
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