Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: Middy2000 on 21 October 2019, 07:26:43 pm
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I'm not sure if I'm imaging it or not but the lights on my clocks now appear quite dim. Same for the odometer display.
She doesn't get used in the dark during the summer so it's not like I've noticed it before. Given I only bought the bike in Feb and used it rarely in the dark there's a good chance they've always been like it.
Does anybody else think that the display is on the dim side?
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Have you tried changing the bulbs?
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Have you got your dark visor on. I actually did this in the daylight once and thought my neutral and turn signal clock lights were a bit dim. :rollin
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I've not changed the bulbs no as it's universal across all the bulbs. They're all working.
I've a clear visor for winter Fazersharp....I'm a good boy like that.
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Do you really want the clock glaring at you in the dark?
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Might be dust in the inside of the glass, easy enough to take off the clock cover and clean it.
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The little capless bulbs do tend to go a bit black inside over time and not a huge job to replace all of them. Probably some LED versions available too.
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As above. They can get a build-up on the outside of the glass over time, which will reduce the light intensity.
Would be worth opening the Clock unit and checking all bulbs are lit on the insude, with none blown.
Replacing them for LED alternatives might be something to consider.
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They're not blown, just a bit dim. It could be that they've blackened a bit but given that's it universally dim across both dials I'm more inclined to think that that's just how it is.
If I can be bothered I'll pull them out to look and consider replacing them, if not I'll just put up with it. It's not exactly mission critical.
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They're not blown, just a bit dim. It could be that they've blackened a bit but given that's it universally dim across both dials I'm more inclined to think that that's just how it is.
If I can be bothered I'll pull them out to look and consider replacing them, if not I'll just put up with it. It's not exactly mission critical.
It has actually got me thinking because in the car I can control the clocks brightness,yet given that I am in the cars shell I don't really need to alter anything but on a bike you a are subject to the surrounding ambient light.Surly it would not be too difficult to implement a lux controlled clock lighting regime on a bike
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They're not blown, just a bit dim. It could be that they've blackened a bit but given that's it universally dim across both dials I'm more inclined to think that that's just how it is.
If I can be bothered I'll pull them out to look and consider replacing them, if not I'll just put up with it. It's not exactly mission critical.
It has actually got me thinking because in the car I can control the clocks brightness,yet given that I am in the cars shell I don't really need to alter anything but on a bike you a are subject to the surrounding ambient light.Surly it would not be too difficult to implement a lux controlled clock lighting regime on a bike
:D
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They're not blown, just a bit dim. It could be that they've blackened a bit but given that's it universally dim across both dials I'm more inclined to think that that's just how it is.
If I can be bothered I'll pull them out to look and consider replacing them, if not I'll just put up with it. It's not exactly mission critical.
It has actually got me thinking because in the car I can control the clocks brightness,yet given that I am in the cars shell I don't really need to alter anything but on a bike you a are subject to the surrounding ambient light.Surly it would not be too difficult to implement a lux controlled clock lighting regime on a bike
:D
:thumbup :rollin :rollin :rollin
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The clocks are dim I fitted a set of blue leds I got from ebay . nice and bright now just right .
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The clocks are dim I fitted a set of blue leds I got from ebay . nice and bright now just right .
I reckon I might just do that. After I install the gear indicator I've had for a month staring at me on the workbench. I keep going for that imaginary 7th gear.
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Someone on here swapped their clock bulbs for LED ones and one after another they failed. Not sure what the story is but maybe they were cheap Chinese from ebay. Probably LEDs are all Chinese but - you get the idea.
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Someone on here swapped their clock bulbs for LED ones and one after another they failed. Not sure what the story is but maybe they were cheap Chinese from ebay. Probably LEDs are all Chinese but - you get the idea.
That happened to me, but I persisted, trying different bulb types and eventually found some that haven't given up the ghost and are still working now. If I remember rightly, they were ones that use SMB LEDs.
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(https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/75380115_1212975708891561_2361271675292483584_n.jpg?_nc_cat=101&_nc_oc=AQna9XEQ2SedNet8ZqPgxvn8EcIw_njm_ocfI1DYC7roK5DH2cUrFE3fvTjEMTvbEMcaYHFuReVDAeHOHUgsewMd&_nc_ht=scontent-lhr3-1.xx&oh=02c8467e1029ca5b6b23004098ab7795&oe=5E5FAD2B)
Photos of my recent bulb update. Examples (top to bottom) of clear, original, incandescent bulb and a similar faded one. Both originals worked but half the display was almost unlit. And one of the LED replacements I've used. If you use LEDs remember they must be installed the correct way round or they won't work (but won't be damaged). Simply turn it round. I've left the oil warning light as incandescent as I'll be unsure its the correct way round until disaster occurs. And don't remove all the Haynes manual suggests so leave mirrors, fairing etc in place. Remove the visor then undo the three instrument cluster retaining nuts and washers. Hope this helps..
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When you press the start button the oil warning light is grounded through the cut off relay so the oil light should come on. It's a bulb test. You could use that to check that the oil light led is in correctly. If you turn the kill switch off you can hold the start button in and the light will come on without the engine starting.
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Excellent feedback. Thanks for that. If anyone is tempted to replace all the bulbs there are 9.
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When you press the start button the oil warning light is grounded through the cut off relay so the oil light should come on. It's a bulb test. You could use that to check that the oil light led is in correctly. If you turn the kill switch off you can hold the start button in and the light will come on without the engine starting.
I am pretty sure that my mk 1 does not do that ( have had the bulb briefly come on) after exiting a particularly nice roundabout so I know it works. But an egg cup full of oil to top up sorted that. ;) :D
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It's on the 98 wiring diagram. You can see it if you follow the ground side of the oil level bulb. The bulb has two paths to ground, one path goes from the bulb to cut off relay to oil level switch to ground so the bulb gets ground when the oil level switch is closed, when the the oil level drops. The other path is from the bulb to cut off relay to alarm connector to start button to ground so the bulb gets ground when the start button is pressed.
The wiring diagram shows a direct connection between the cut off relay and the start button. That is a mistake. There is no direction connection, that was pointed out by unfazed here http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=25456.msg300493#msg300493 (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=25456.msg300493#msg300493)
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Or the less scientific way to convince yourself, have a look on Youtube at people starting Fazers, you will see the red oil light come on briefly when they press the start button and go off when the release it
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Or the less scientific way to convince yourself, have a look on Youtube at people starting Fazers, you will see the red oil light come on briefly when they press the start button and go off when the release it
I will make and extra effort to look out for it the next time I go for a spin
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Light comes on with the starter but on my MK1 1999
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Fazerfan,
Do you have a link to where you got those bulbs from? That way I can buy them and they'll sit next to my gear indicator for 3 months whilst I find some motivation to change them.
Not in a rush as it's pretty wet out there and my Fazer isn't going to touch the tarmac whilst it's anything less than dry. She might melt....
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Excellent feedback. Thanks for that. If anyone is tempted to replace all the bulbs there are 9.
For best results you need to match the LED colour to the lenses, e.g. green for indicators, neutral, etc. You can use any colour you want for the dials.
Note the blue LEDs are very bright - great for dials, but not so great for the High beam indicator as it tends to blind you when you have it on. For this reason I left this bulb as the original incandescent bulb.
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I can it was originally by Andy Smily Mily Bond on foc-u facebook.
I'll look it up,,
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Super-Bright-T5-286-Led-Xenon-Dashboard-73-74-Bulbs-Speedo-Wedge-Bulb-Lights-12v/382429207989?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=651408819577&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Super-Bright-T5-286-Led-Xenon-Dashboard-73-74-Bulbs-Speedo-Wedge-Bulb-Lights-12v/382429207989?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=651408819577&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)
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So if there are 9 bulbs in total what is the breakdown of the colours I need.
I.E. How many do the dials? Quite tempted to go blue for the dials. Do I then need 2 green for indicators, 1 green for neutral and a blue for high beam?
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3x green, 1x blue, 1x orange, 1x red, 3x what ever colour you want for the dials.
n.b. on my '03 (not sure if it's there on all models) there's also a fixed red led in the rev counter for the temp warning. This can't be changed.
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Why do you need the colour bulbs as the accosted warnings have a coloured lens
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A white LED light through a coloured lense makes it look washed out (e.g. pink instead of red), where as a coloured LED through a coloured lens looks normal. No idea why they are different to old style bulb, but's that's what happens.
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A white LED light through a coloured lense makes it look washed out (e.g. pink instead of red), where as a coloured LED through a coloured lens looks normal. No idea why they are different to old style bulb, but's that's what happens.
Too white and bright I suppose thenAlthough and very bright indicator on light would help stop me forgetting to cancel it
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A white LED light through a coloured lense makes it look washed out (e.g. pink instead of red), where as a coloured LED through a coloured lens looks normal. No idea why they are different to old style bulb, but's that's what happens.
I discovered that on the indicators lenses the'clear' LED's made them distinctly blue. About to change to Green LEDs. After all, it was the indicators I was having trouble seeing in daylight in the first place. (Remember the time the sun shone and we complained it was too hot in our protective gear! You wish now don't you. And I hope no foccer or their friends and kin have been affected by the floods).
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Bulbs arrived and I'm gonna get them fitted during the week.
I'm guessing it's a case of removing the screen to get access to the rear of the clocks.
What should happen then?
I've had a feel around and there appears to be a few stud type bolts holding it all together. Do I remove them and drop the back off to get access?
Or do I need to disconnect the wiring?
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Screen off, remove multi wired plug, remove fairing infills, undo 3 nuts off studs, remove clock set, remove phillips screws and separate clock housing.
Change bulbs to LEDs and plug instrument clocks back in, ignition on to check LEDs illuminate. If not reverse bulb holder to change polarity. If all is well screw it all back together.
Job done.
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So I've done it. Really easy job.
Exactly as BernieEccles described assist from no need to remove infill panels.
Got 1 out of 3 bulbs in the right way on first attempt.
Unfortunately they are worse than the white ones. The odometer is unreadable. The clocks look cool in blue and are useable but not what I wanted.
Not sure if more powerful ones will be any better or whether that's the issue and they're overpowering the odometer.
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I've never had a problem seeing the gauges with the standard bulbs. Maybe some new standard bulbs is what you need. You could also measure the voltage you're getting at the bulb to make sure it's the full 12V
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:agree