Date: 28-03-24  Time: 21:20 pm

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Messages - unfazed

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1
FZS600 Fazer / Re: making the bike faster
« on: 21 March 2024, 06:57:01 pm »
I presume you mean gas flowing, Smoothing of cast rough intakes ports on the carburettor engines reduces atomisation of the fuels and can lead to unburnt fuel which then reduces power. Smoothing the exhaust ports expel the burnt fuel as fast as possible is a better option. Not worth the effort on the FZS600 as the engine is in a highish state of tune as it is. You would most likely end up with less power engine. Reprofiling the cams may be a better option but is it worth the cost for a small gain.

2
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Help: gearbox removal
« on: 12 March 2024, 03:12:24 pm »
Disassembled the engine, removed the gears. TBH the gear dogs didn't seem too terrible, but if it jumps out of gear what can I do...I was lucky to find a low mileage gearbox from a '94 FZR600R, and combined the best gears into a working unit. The 2nd gear pinion is a b**** to remove and install... Now I wait for some Loctite sealant, then I'll reassemble the engine.Just for my own entertainement, added the costs of necessary parts together, if everything was new. Wow. Good thing that almost everything's available new, but a complete transmission overhaul, some crankshaft bearings, a complete gasket set adds up to the value of my bike, even if every work is done by me.
Jumping out of gear can be caused by broken spring on the Shift Drum or Shift Shaft or both. I remember someone on here a long time ago and he had a bend on the drum rotating mechanism on the shift shaft which was causing his gear lever not to full rotate the drum to the next gear

3
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: A couple of electrics questions.
« on: 10 March 2024, 09:59:56 pm »
To lower the electrical load I have fitted LED lights - made a massive difference.
Same here and I replaced the White connector with Anderson powerpoles.
Plans are to do something similar with one of the connectors under the infill panel.
The original wring and connectors are fine, but when water especially salt water gets in and corrodes the connection and you get issues, unfortunately as corrosion travels back through the wires the strands become insulated from each other creating higher resistance in the wires reducing the current flow in the wires
Fitting MosFet Rectifier/Regulator helps and will improve battery life with it's faster internal switching plus it runs much cooler than the Shunt type, but it does not solve the underlying issue, Dielectric grease stops the corrosion, but doe not fix it and the only real solution is wire replacement, which is not the easy.

4
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: A couple of electrics questions.
« on: 10 March 2024, 10:06:52 am »
I presume you all know, Shindengen is a Chinese company.

6
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Starter cut off or....?
« on: 03 March 2024, 11:01:56 pm »
7 wire ignition switches are a rare commodity. This might help a conversion diagram on 7 to 6 wire ignition I did some time ago when many were in the same situation of not being able to locate a 7 wire ignition switch  https://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=92One of idle days

7
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Fzs1000 on the front Cover of a Classic Mag.
« on: 01 March 2024, 07:18:19 pm »
With a 1.5hour wait on Monday for my wife  who was at a physio appointment, I headed for a coffee in the shopping centre and took a look at the magazines in Easons Book shop first. The magazine that caught my attention was Classic Motorcycle Mechanics because it had a picture of a yellow FZS1000S on the cover, thumbed through it and bought it. Into the cafe and settled down with my coffee to read the article.
The bike they used for the test was a yellow 20003 S model with 10,000 miles, looking like it came out of the showroom totally standard.
A good article, but didn't tell me anything I didn't all ready know and the article contributors loved it.
Definitely worth a read if you have not already done so.
 

8
When it was idle was it on the side stand the whole time?  If it was the most likely issues is blocked pilot jets

9
Are you sure you didn't put plug lead 3 on plug 4 and plug lead 4 on plug 3. Very easily done and looks right, especially if the leads on the tags are missing

10
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Starter cut off or....?
« on: 26 February 2024, 02:31:50 pm »
What exactly are you checking? What colours do you have in the ignition switch connector under the tank? Check it on both sides, going to the ignition switch and going back into the loom. Out of curosity is the red /yellow going to the clutch switch?

11
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Cam Chain tensioner removal/installation process
« on: 19 February 2024, 10:11:38 pm »
Down load the manuals here https://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;cat=2
Highly unlikely your tensioner is giving trouble but it is far more than likely to be a worn cam chain or the tensioner has not taken up the slack yet. Common for engines with cam chains to rattle before the tensioner takes up the slack  because chains do not wear evenly. Only time I ever saw an stuck Fazer 600 tensioner was on a bike that was out in all weather and not used for 4 months under a tarpaulin not to far from the coast and the tensioner was rusty, as was the rest of it  :rolleyes
You only need to remove the tank or prop it up securly. Pull up the plug caps carefullyRemove all the cam cover screws. Remove the Rotor cover and tie it up out of the way.rotate the Rotor anticlockwise until the 'T' mark lines with the joint between the crankcases at the front of the engine.See picture
Lift the cam cover and check the timing marks see picture of the actual cam and cap marksmark.
If the cam does not line up close to the cap then rotate the rotor a full 360degreeds and line up the rotor marks again.
If the cam marks are less than 5mm off to the rear then the rattle is probably from the tensioner not having taking up the chain slack yet.If 5 to 10mm off to the rear chain is wearing and tensioner has not having taken up the slack yet.More the 10mm off to the rear, the chain needs to be replaced as the tensioner is probably at the end of its adjustment.Might be worth checking the tappats as you have the cover lifted.

When you are putting everything back, put ordinary garage grease not silicone on the cam cover gasket and make sure it is back on properly.You can be liberal with ordinary grease as it the excess melts off
 

12
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Starter cut off or....?
« on: 19 February 2024, 09:19:15 pm »
Cheers for the replies so far.
I'm getting a bit frustrated with the Haynes manual cos they give the wrong colour wires in the text compared to what I physically have and what they have in the diagram!
There are are a few variants and the Haynes manual cater mostly for the UK market if you bike is outside the UK there could be minor differences

13
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Starter cut off or....?
« on: 18 February 2024, 10:38:56 pm »
It could be a faulty ignition switch.  Check for continuity between the Black and Blue yellow wires in the ignition switch when the switch is turned on.

14
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Fuel pump overflow problem (bad pump, or bad carbs?)
« on: 16 February 2024, 11:58:08 pm »
Fuel pump is a rare failure, perished or cracked float valve O rings allowing the fuel to flood the carbs and drown out the motor is the most likely cause of your issue

15
Fazer8 / FZ8 / Re: Fazer 800 Running issue - With video
« on: 09 February 2024, 07:50:23 pm »
I forgot to reply to the ECU reset.Disconnect the Positive battery lead leave it off for about 15mins then touch it off the negative lead for a few secs, now put it back on.There are two sensors for firing of plugs and injectors the Crankshaft sensor and the Camshaft or Cylinder Identification sensor. These going bad would be more of a misfire issue, stopping intermittently especially when hot or difficulty starting and/or rich running or stalling

A Throttle position sensor going faulty could cause  the issue, but would be rare and it would most likely be surging when riding slowly. Removing it and turning it manually should show if it is the cause.
It could still be a stuck thermo wax unit as the little piston can seize. Bike that are idle for a long time or bike that are started occasionally and  not allowed heat up fully when left idle for a long time can have corrosion build up on the little piston causing them to stick on or off. It could be stuck on the replacement throttle bodies also.You can probably remove it with out disconnecting the coolant hoses like the FZ1 or you could separate the unit, I am not overly familiar with the FZ8 but it should be similar to the FZ1. The piston should move in and out when cold but only about 5or 6mm. Since you have a spare throttle body you could practice on it first








16
FZS600 Fazer / Re: 1998 fzs 600 coolant o rings
« on: 03 February 2024, 09:39:31 pm »
yes thats the ones i mean, i was dreadding that to be the answer, ive managed to remove the allen bolt and can pull the elbow back just enough to maybe squeeze some instant gasket in i just bought from halfrauds, thanks for your help
That would be a selling fix botch job, do it right and do it once. Coolant is under a bit of pressure at that point and needs to be sealed properly

17
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Not sure if my carbs have been jetted
« on: 28 January 2024, 02:15:25 am »
Only easy way to find  out is take off the float bowl and check the size of the main jet. The left side float bowl can be removed with the carbs on the bike, it's just a bit fiddly.Standard main jet on that carb is 132.5

18
Replace the inlet rubbers and it will be fine. Looks normal

19
Fazer8 / FZ8 / Re: Fazer 800 Running issue - With video
« on: 26 January 2024, 08:48:34 pm »
Will the idle not drop if you adjust the idle adjuster? I assume not since that is the obvious first step to check.Did you reset the ECU? It is a learning ECU.Did you check the fuel line pressure? Should be 47PsiWhen you tested the items did you check the wiring connection back to the ECU? Did you check the Multi point earth which is prone to corrosion?Was the fast idle included with the replacement throttle bodies, is it adjusted properly and is a common source of high idle issues.
Has the TPS been set correctly?Did you try disconecting the O2 sensor?

20
Which bike, post a picture of the issue you have

21
General / Re: long radiator hose route and rubber engine guard
« on: 17 January 2024, 12:02:06 am »
yes, ive litterally just found the pipe from the carbs and fitted it, just trying to remember where the rubber engine guard goes as the manual i found on google is useless, thanks for your help
The rubber on the front top of the engine to direct water off plug caps??
If that is it, then the two holes at the top of the rubber closest together push on too the two round protruding pieces on to the flat part at the front of the frame at near the head-stock. Parts catalogue gives a better picture of it

22
General / Re: long radiator hose route and rubber engine guard
« on: 16 January 2024, 01:12:31 am »
 Is it the ones from the carbs or ????

23
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Hard starting cold or hot
« on: 29 December 2023, 09:30:32 pm »
I have been experiencing a sticky ignition barrel so put electrical contact cleaner in followed by a small amount of WD40 and it’s fine now.That is a classic problem with many Yamahas as many have 2 if not 3 circuits within the ignition and one circuit effects the starting. I have been using WD40 for years in Ignition barrels and never had the issue, but know many who had and again extremely common in every day use bike and more so if stored outside uncovered in all weathers. Have even seen a few freeze up due to water within just as Gnasher will most likey have seen also, WD40 does prevent it even though many do not like the idea of putting WD40 into the barrell. 

You will not see the water in the fuel as there will will be so little and well mixed. There are additives you can add to prevent the separation but I have never used any as I prefer to drain the tank. Water build up inside has been know to rot the tank from the inside out with the giveaway being paint on the lowest section of the tank.
At least it is running again, but the sticky ignition could have been the issue as it will turn over but not fire if the ignition acts up

24
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Hard starting cold or hot
« on: 28 December 2023, 03:27:20 pm »
Water mixed in the petrol will separate and settle in the bottom of the float bowls especially overnight. Been down this road many times with bikes used in all weather and more so if out in all weathers

Had it on my own 1000 which was kept outside and ridden in all weathers when my son had it. It would be slow to start when hot if left for 30 minutes or overnight. Have come across it more than once in the last few years. If bike starts quicker after draining and refilling the bowls in the morning it is a sure sign of water mixed in the fuel. Not enough to effect it running, but enough to cause slow starting. Last bike I had it happen was a Serow I bought last year and the previous owner said before I bought it that is was a bit slow to start and would take ages to start if left idle for a week. Draining the float bowl pointed me to water in the fuel as it would start immediately when refilled. Removed the tank and drained it dry after it went on reserve and refilled it with fresh fuel and never had a issue with it sense.

25
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Hard starting cold or hot
« on: 27 December 2023, 06:56:06 pm »
Has the Exup,, plugs and valve clearances been checked recently? Does it misfire before it starts? Do you use the choke when starting from cold?
It is also very possible you have water in the fuel which is common in an all weather bike.
One easy way of checking is to drain the float bowls before starting cold and then letting them refill by turning on the ignition wait until the pump stops ticking turn off the iginition andturn it one again, keep doing this   until the pumps ticks once or not at all when the ignition is switch on. Then try starting it.

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