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Topics - reillypadraig
1
« on: 03 February 2014, 09:54:06 pm »
Just threw on the new mirrors, the old r1 mirrors were had seen better days, Any thoughts?  
2
« on: 20 January 2014, 06:58:42 am »
Ok guys so most of you know I powdercoated the frame red.......wel I think now in the long run it was a bad idea... Due to the fact that it looks shit in every picture I take of it  So I'm going to strip it again...yes this will be the third full strip I'v done since I got the bike, and I'v only just fixed her up and running wel :-(. I can't afford to redo the powdercoating so might just hang frame from roof of shed and spray with ye-old spray can? Bike frame will still be powdercoated protected just changing the colour eh? Going back to the black is the safest bet me thinks. Think I might time myself this time, I'm aiming for 3-4 hours to having just frame, wiring loom and all out haha
3
« on: 14 January 2014, 07:17:05 am »
Wel as some if you know I went with the whole powder coating the bike frame red and have the bike back together a while and had to get my new headstock bearing right b4 a decent blast,
Wel I ended up going balls out down the road, moderate-strong head wind but chin down on tank in the end I managed to push out 138mph b4 I caught up with a line of cars behind a tractor
I'm not condoning it in any way shape or form, I know it's dangerous and all that but just wondering has anyone else got a better top speed out of the boxeye? I'm sure with a different ratio on the sprockets...... But just with standard set-up?
4
« on: 08 January 2014, 07:14:28 am »
Fitted new headstock bearings, but now feels heavy, at slow speeds like turning a cruise ship, like as if front wheel was flat, but it's different bearings, old 1's were the ball bearings, new 1 is the roller bearings, much more of a surface to move against? Old bearing had like 12 balls in them? New rollers have like 25-30? Maybe just extra surface friction?
5
« on: 17 December 2013, 10:56:00 am »
Old rad was I a bad was so got new cover, arrived yesterday, so I decided to undo the side bolts to attach the cover, and just as always with my Fazer, there had to be one prick of a bolt that wouldn't open, of course the hex rang, then vice grips didn't work, the outside is domed shaped do no use, so I decided to cut a line in the bolt with a hacksaw and use a flat head screwdriver, nope didn't work, tight as fuck, so I got thick and put the screwdriver at an angle and a hammer and tried to batter it around so I might turn abit and then unscrew it, but no, I pushed the whole corner or the rad in on its self  , But any thoughts on the rad cover?
6
« on: 11 November 2013, 04:19:39 pm »
Yea I'v done it again, bike is in a million bits, frame has been sent of for powder coating, pics below, new bearings ordered for headstock, loom sent to be fixed,( oil light won't come on, some connections broke.) Some other items now sent to be powder coated aswel, just trying to find somewhere to clean and shine exhaust Swingarm forks, engine top and top yoke. New brake pads ordered, going to be removing rear shock from the spring and painting the shock itself( bit rusty) also new bearing needed for arm under the shock,( can't think of name). New rear plactic under fender being sourced,( old one was broke by flying broken chain at 70+mph  New chain ordered Oil+filter Unsure about Swingarm bearing, not sure if they are bad or not, have few other things to do, just wondering what you guys think?
7
« on: 16 October 2013, 05:32:13 am »
My poor little Fazer must hate me for wanting to do horrible things to it, yes I only rebuilt it last year after buying it with the new engine hanging in it by 2 bolts and 3 carbs later got it going right, but I have her parked up for a few weeks now and went out yesterday to a flat battery. But that's not the point, while I was rebuilding it I noticed fairly bad rusting in front and rear of the frame(behind the fairings) also in the bottom of the frame So I have decided to do a full bare back naked strip and either oh fashioned sand by hand and paint bla bla bla or get it sandblasted.(opinions welcomed here) It's a black 99fzs with a black frame but I was planing on going abit maroon on the frame, the same colour as the frame on a 09 r1 cross plane crank maroon, hoping it will turn out something like this.( I know is a kawi but only pic I could find with the colours I'm looking for) But any ideas on the Swingarm, should I leave as is? Or do a chrome polished finish? Still in idea stage but starting to strip at the minute
8
« on: 18 August 2013, 05:13:00 pm »
If you haven't read it yet its a very good read. Link for twist of the wrist 2: http://www.mediafire.com/?71ynjmmgiujJust realised how much there is to learn yet! 
9
« on: 13 August 2013, 09:06:57 am »
Just as an off topic, I just wanted to get a broad opinion on how all of you cope with wearing glasses in your helmet, just on if they bug ya just abit of if ya put the helmet on a little awkward and Ur ear hurts the whole trim, or do you wear contacts especially for this purpose??? I'm asking this because I don't wear contacts and its coming back into the glasses fogging up season again soon 
10
« on: 08 August 2013, 12:02:08 am »
Just wondering if anyone have ever refurbished their chain ? The chain on my Fazer had plenty of miles left in it but the previous owner didn't take care if it and left me with a few tight links, I would rather try and get a few more miles out of her if I could before shelling out for a new chain and sprockets as neither are all that bad( I'v seen alot worse on the road,)
So far u started of with spray can chain lube, but find the owners manual better by sticking to engine oil as lube, I know I know, but hey, it works fine for me,
I did try take of swing and to remove the chain in into entirety, but the swing arm bolt got tighter and I unscrewed it so was afraid to break it,
So anyway of freeing the thought links while chain is still on bike??
11
« on: 14 July 2013, 08:37:12 am »
Hi all, might as wel start another new topic for this one.... As some of you may know I bought my Fazer with a new engine hanging in it, so I fixed it up but wasn't able to do anything with the speedo yet, The bike was originally from Europe I think... But was brought into uk and some messer slapped a very horrible and lumpy mph face on the clocks, Now with the new engine in I have a clock in klms a lumpy face in mph and no proper mileage for new engine, For the sake of it the bike at the min has 106025klms on clock and the new engine has about 16,000 miles
12
« on: 14 July 2013, 08:26:08 am »
Just wondering if anyone knows which exact wire it is for the oil light in the main white junction under the tank,
Ill explain, simply I was removing the whole from fairing and the whole lot sometime ago now, but I did plug out the wire in the junction box under the tank to remove the clocks completely, when I plugged all back together I lost indicators lights dash lights fuel light, so checked the big white connector and its corroded to hell inside, half the little needles are broken or gone, so I put it back together and tightened it with a cable tie and low and behold everything works, except the oil light,
Just wondering without having to bollox round tracing wires tru the frame and loom does anyone know the exact wire?
13
« on: 19 June 2013, 07:42:35 am »
got the seals done finally,
instead of going out and buying a seal pusher or going back to the garage and admitting defeat i got 2 3 inch lengths of waste pipe, the white pipe under the sink, and split them (just one cut on the vertical so you can stech it open) and i streched one onto the fork, but doesnt fit the whole way around, the i put the other on from the far sidecover in the splight but about 10 mill up from the bottom of the first one and then got a large fastener, same as on the rad hoses and tighted it to the leg
reason i left the the first one i put on about the mill lower is so that the first one is tight against the leg and so when you push the fork down it batters the top bush down, then when you have that done, its the seal next
quick tip....milk carton!, 2 liter plastic milk carton, just cut off the bit in the middle where the label is and where its smooth, dont need that much, rub grease on sealant grease is better if you have it, wrap that around top of fork in a cone shape, put seal over it and slide the whole lot down the leg and past all that stone chipping on the fork that you might not have got off, all the way now just pull the plastic milk carton piece out and push seal in,
get the waste pipe again put one on, the the second from the other side, just put the second one this tim down 10 mill and clip, this is now able to push the all important outside of the seal where you can hit it and doesnt hit the inner part of the seal against the fork
put dust cap on put all back in fork, fill with oil, job done!
14
« on: 04 June 2013, 02:33:21 pm »
How much do I need? Haynes gone missing
15
« on: 08 May 2013, 05:57:43 am »
Just noticed yesterday that there is oil all around my seal and up the fork, it not running down the fork yet or anything, but I can feel it gone even in the handling and feel every bump in the road now. Just wondering how long have I got before is running down the fork and onto my tyre on my favourite corner
16
« on: 25 April 2013, 09:14:35 pm »
Silly question, is the float ment to be facing the front or the back of the tank? Fuel showing full all the time even if its almost empty
17
« on: 25 April 2013, 10:26:46 am »
Just thought I'd throw this up, very funny guy I'm following on YouTube put up a wheelie school video..... Gues what there wheeling on? You guessed it.... Box eyes!!!! Worth a look
18
« on: 23 April 2013, 09:21:34 pm »
Was just taking a nice spin today and going up a hill that I'v gone up manys a time, just this time i did it at speed, didn't think I was going that fast but I felt the front wheel go light but didn't realise what I had done until the back wheel hit the ground and the front was still up, just let off the trottle and the front came down but not overly hard, lucky I surpose, I didn't tense up as I didn't even know it was happening, just 2 seconds of airtime @ 90mph isn't something I would like to experience again,
This happen to many??
19
« on: 23 April 2013, 12:22:47 am »
Has anyone looked at replacement pegs? I'm only riding awhile but I'm starting to feel the pegs abit goofy when I'm going through consecutive tight turns, I'm not saying I'm racing the thing but doing the speed limit and I do find I shift myself on the seat( yes I have watched hundreds of vids on how to corner and hang off properly and even MCN's version..... )And I'm not knee down or anything mad,
Maybe it's just me but I just find alot of movement in them( and yes I have tightened the bolt) its the vertical movements and the rubber. Don't get me wrong bumpy roads and long spins there great!
20
« on: 16 April 2013, 03:05:30 pm »
For some strange reason the sun broke out today so instead of what normal people do I cleaned the bike then when i eventually finished I went for a spin and it pissed rain so to hellf with this came home and sun came out again!!!! Argh right back out get some fuel oh wait...... It's seems to be some more precipitation, what a bitch, but it ok no prob just a nice 80-100 kph winds to add in, mmmmh tasty. Rant over Yea i went bit mad in the hole cleaning thing, so I thought for no apparent reason I would share my madness, Waheey 
21
« on: 09 April 2013, 04:22:10 pm »
Like the title, just want to know what caps I need? Went into my local dealer and he showed me this
22
« on: 03 April 2013, 08:49:05 pm »
Just went for a spin on my cousins bike for the last time before I have to bring it back on Friday and the exhaust fell off about a mile from home, just split at the joint under the peg, had to pull it forward and onto the peg and hold it with my foot against the peg so no rear brake the rest of the way home, now I'm panicking. The end of the exhaust looks like it completely rusted and doesn't look like there's any exhaust left to clamp the down pipe from the slip on onto the exhaust. Any ideas?
23
« on: 24 March 2013, 10:17:42 am »
Float has been sticking over the past while but working on and of but now it's just stuck at full and even filling the tank up and shaking fuel around won't move it,
I'v been looking for another thread on this as I seen it before but can't find
24
« on: 22 March 2013, 01:11:20 am »
Not sure if too many people have done this but I gave it a go the other day, bike way really stiff putting onto main stand, so I decided to remove it ( as I have a habit of removing stuf on this bike and found the pivot bearing ( or basically a bolt) dry as a done. So I greased it and put all back together, now here's the tricky part, the Haynes manuel says to bolt all back together and then reattach the spring, I found my spring to be a little tense Haynes manuel doesn't tell you that you can separate the springs, so I put bike center stand without spring then attached the top half of both springs to the main frame and the pulled the smaller inner spring down onto the hook on the stand then the larger one over it, mind you for this I had a second pair of hand and a long screwdriver so both of us pushed the spring down at the same time from both sides of the bike. Probably not the best way of doing it but worked for me with the limited tools (and of course limited brain capacity) But hey it's perfect now. Anyone ever do this??
25
« on: 18 March 2013, 11:17:53 pm »
Bit proud, still learning though! Rear tyre bit twitchy at that angle
P.s yea I did realise after I took this picture that chain was abit dry, fixed now
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