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Messages - Fazerider
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2101
« on: 21 December 2011, 06:43:16 pm »
... and gone!
Thanks Griff!
My current chain has done 37,000...
2102
« on: 20 December 2011, 09:40:39 pm »
Tonie, what's the furthest you've ridden the Fazer in one go so far? I find the saddle pretty uncomfortable after 200 miles, the most I've ridden in one day is about 450 miles and that felt like a feat of endurance. Even with a gel saddle it'll be an ordeal. Locksmith is right, you're going to struggle to stay focussed for that length of time. Eight hours in you're going to be wondering if the shooting pains in your legs are deep vein thrombosis, worried about being 120 miles behind schedule and some dozy twonk in a BMW X5 is going to find that the perfect moment to pull a smidsy on you. I wouldn't attempt it, biking should be fun not torture. 
2103
« on: 19 December 2011, 12:01:50 pm »
Very pretty, but doesn't quite display properly on either of the browsers I use: 
2104
« on: 18 December 2011, 01:43:23 pm »
Unless you've never tackled a corner at more than 10mph, counter-steering is what you've been doing all these years.
Sorry, but I think you've just been trolled.
Ah. I did wonder, but have often met folks who ride yet don't know how they're doing it... so took his post at face value.
2105
« on: 18 December 2011, 01:21:16 pm »
On the subject of advanced riding, somebody told me that you can corner faster, and smoother by pushing the bars in the opposite direction - I thought he was getting confused with opposite lock in sliding cars etc, but he swore it was true for bikes, I think he said it was called counter steering or something. Was he telling the truth, or am I going to end up in a field?
Unless you've never tackled a corner at more than 10mph, counter-steering is what you've been doing all these years. Not that knowing it necessarily makes one a better rider, but if you apply pressure to the bars to try to make them turn left the effect of the big gyro between your front forks is to tip the bike over to the right... exactly what you need to get round a right hander. Find an empty bit of straight road and try it (gently) if you don't believe it.
2106
« on: 17 December 2011, 11:51:07 am »
I had my doubts about electric chainsaws until I was given one as a Christmas present 5 years ago. 1800W is ample power, it cuts fast and quietly and doesn't leave me stinking of two-stroke fumes... a joy to use.
Safety: plug in via an RCD.
Maintenance: Get a 3/32" (probably, check that's the right size for your chain) round file to keep the cutting edges in tip-top condition. If progress seems slow or you're getting dust (or smoke) from the log rather than a hail of little chippings you've a long job ahead... best to sharpen each link with a few light strokes after each session than leave it until you notice it's getting bad.
Grit/sand from soil is very bad for chains... cutting through dirty roots will blunt it in seconds.
2107
« on: 16 December 2011, 01:03:07 am »
I'm another Halfords M/C semi-synthetic 10W-40 user.
Some swear by car oil, and it's possible those of us who look for the word "Motorcycle" on the container are paying over the odds, but it's a simple way of ensuring there's nothing that will bugger up the clutch in there and the price difference isn't very significant unless you do astronomical mileages. Theoretically, older classifications of oil could be better (SJ rather than the current SL) as they can contain higher levels of wear reducer ZDDP... though since oil companies like to keep the recipe for their products secret, there's no easy way of telling whether an SJ oil actually has any of the stuff in there anyway.
2108
« on: 13 December 2011, 10:56:36 pm »
Try leading the group, let them have your road-spray for a change. 
2109
« on: 13 December 2011, 01:35:48 pm »
The current flow will be the same but the original question was the current drawn from each battery. In other words, how quickly will it go flat? Assuming a pair of matched batteries in series and they will both go flat at the same rate as they are both having the same amount of current drawn from them, half of the total current required. Using the old water pump analogy, volts is pump pressure, amps is the quantity of water so the same quantity of water will be emptied from each battery and each will supply half of the amount needed by the load.
No, both are supplying all the current (but half the power, since that is volts x amps). In the water analogy Amps is represented by volume of water per second.
2110
« on: 13 December 2011, 09:57:55 am »
If you linked the two 12v batteries together in series you would have the equivalent of a 24v battery as you say. However as I see it the draw from each battery would be 450ma. (I'm in disagreement with rustyrider here). Why? You've got 2 batteries connected together in series to give 24V and a load which is drawing 450mA. If you were to draw 450mA from each battery, you would have 900mA of current flowing. The lamp draws 450mA so where is the other 450mA going?
If you used a pair of 12V batteries in parallel, the draw at 12V would be 900mA, that would be 450mA per battery but by increasing the voltage you decrease the current required.
If you connect batteries in series the voltages add, the current is the same through each ... so both are supplying 450mA. Think of the batteries as pumps pushing water uphill: in parallel a pair would give twice the current, in series they could pump the same current as one pump... but twice as high (they're pumping the same current because it's the same water). As for the original problem of which is better in this instance, it makes little real difference. A low voltage cell in a battery will get worse as the battery discharges (in fact it will become reverse charged), but it's in series with the other cells anyway so if that battery is doing anything useful the sick cell will get worse whether the batteries are in series or parallel. I'd have a slight preference for series connection, at least that way the healthier battery isn't wasting power by trying to charge the sicker one... though it would make charging more fiddly if you only have a 12V charger.
2111
« on: 11 December 2011, 09:09:35 pm »
Well, if the contact patch is a bit broader than standard for a 5" rim it certainly doesn't bother me and presumably for normal riding it means the tyre lasts longer. Perhaps for track days a 170 might offer some advantage, but on the road I only just reach the edge of the tread... if it had a steeper profile I'd be paying for tread I'd never use.
2112
« on: 11 December 2011, 06:54:00 pm »
i bought a +2 rear sprocket and the bloody chain is too short and as the bikes only done 2k im loath to buy a new chain anybody know where i could buy a link and 2 soft links and would it be ok having 2 soft links only 1 link apart
You might have already tried this, but the chain may be long enough if you fit it over the rear sprocket before sliding the wheel spindle through.
2113
« on: 10 December 2011, 05:09:27 pm »
During a gale a couple of years ago my late night commute home from work down the M3 was getting scary with branches and temporary road signs getting blown onto the road. I decided to come off a junction early in the hope that the A331 would be safer. After a mile or so I was even more alarmed when a car passed me... somehow managing to squeeze between me and the kerb, missing me by about an inch. A whole lane of dual carriageway available to overtake and the f*ckwit chose to use the occupied one to pass me up the inside. It's not like he needed to be in that lane anyway, he turned right shortly afterwards... so I could only assume his intentions were to frighten the crap out of me. Mission accomplished, tosser. 
2114
« on: 07 December 2011, 11:32:47 am »
No need to warm the motor, IMHO. You want the nut to come off the stud, not the stud to come out of the head.
Agreed. The OP was probably inadvertently referring to bolts rather than nuts.
2115
« on: 07 December 2011, 10:40:08 am »
but what is the gain on swapping for braided hoses? my local garage said it was more of a look thing over added breaking power
From my admittedly unreliable memory, I think Yamaha recommend replacing them every 4 years. If you swapped to braided you'd notice the brakes feeling much firmer, but if your existing hoses aren't so spongy that you can pull the lever right back to the bar, they don't leak and you're happy with the feel there's no real need to change them.
2116
« on: 06 December 2011, 07:48:52 pm »
Well, if you decide to go ahead, doing it with a hot engine will give the best chance of them coming out without shearing. (Aluminium expands more than steel as the temperature rises thus loosening its grip.)
I'd be inclined to leave them alone but, if I was going to take them out, I'd replace them with stainless ones as well as giving them a dab of copaslip.
2117
« on: 03 December 2011, 10:30:39 am »
I've never subscribed to this idea that chain and sprockets "wear into each other"... at least, not in any useful way. The front sprocket in particular (which, as Dekker points out, suffers three times the workload of the rear) is going to reduce in tooth spacing while the chain will gradually suit a larger one. I can't see how changing sprockets part way through the life of a chain can harm it... and the OP's experience would seem to back that up.
Admittedly, without a scientific comparison that keeps an identical lubrication regime and riding style it can't be regarded as proof, but it's hard to argue that changing sprockets is detrimental to the life of a chain when 40,000 miles is what he normally achieves.
Fazer6868, have you tried measuring the chain wear directly (i.e. a 20 link length)? Are there links that have seized to each other? Unless the seals have failed or you got the side plates of the joining link badly spaced when you installed the chain it's likely that alloy rear sprocket is the cause of your problem and I'd try your regular sprocket change a bit earlier than usual.
2118
« on: 02 December 2011, 06:52:52 pm »
Assuming this is the same in all gears, I'd check the air filter and that nothing is obstructing the airbox. After that, sparks. If it really only does this in first gear... erm.. does the drive sprocket still have teeth on it?
2119
« on: 02 December 2011, 12:42:58 am »
Did you find a full set of bits after the mishap? If there are any bits of the jigsaw missing it'll be worth double-checking they didn't end up in the sump to cause problems later.
2120
« on: 01 December 2011, 09:18:08 am »
I've not seen such nuts on sale, but when I sheared one of the studs on my Fazer, I cobbled something similar together by welding two nuts together and filing. Alternatively and perhaps easier, short length of steel rod could be tapped with a 6mm thread and filed.
2121
« on: 29 November 2011, 07:34:05 pm »
Good luck with all that, but what is that Genesis performance chip supposed to do for a carburettor equipped bike?
2122
« on: 29 November 2011, 02:14:37 pm »
Could we possibly have a 'no voting for yourself' rule too? There seemed to be a bit of that going on before?
Unfortunately there is no way to police it as I cannot tell who anyone has voted for 
Could the voting form be made such that it omits the member viewing it?
No, 'fraid not. TBH if people are sad enough to want to cheat then more fool them - it's only to choose the next month's theme!
Fair point.
2123
« on: 29 November 2011, 02:04:05 pm »
Agreed. It's not just motoring programmes that are guilty of this, at least they're doing it with some justification (and it might be argued that their presenters are better than average as regards driving skills), but most of the rest do it too. It bothers me when some documentary cuts to a journalist driving and talking... he's not concentrating on the road and I'm not concentrating on what he's saying 'cos I'm distracted by the fact that he's not focussed on the road. 
2124
« on: 29 November 2011, 10:22:13 am »
You appear to be the first person crazy enough to contemplate this.
Frankly, having taken the existing engine in and out myself a couple of times, it seems unlikely that there would be room for a bigger one.
If a thou can be squeezed in without hacksawing out inconvenient bits of chassis, the exhaust ports may well have the wrong spacing for the frame and, even if they don't, the constraint imposed by alignment of the drive sprocket could cause them to clash with the frame anyway.
A few measurements taken beforehand may prove the job to be impossible, but if you're unlucky they won't and you'll only discover something makes it so when you actually try it.
2125
« on: 29 November 2011, 09:32:01 am »
Could we possibly have a 'no voting for yourself' rule too? There seemed to be a bit of that going on before?
Unfortunately there is no way to police it as I cannot tell who anyone has voted for
Could the voting form be made such that it omits the member viewing it?
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