The idea was to prevent people using ordinary incandescent bulbs, so they came up with this 3-pin design that wouldn't accept the old style bulbs. As green initiatives go it was impressively stupid: the market is awash with subsidised 2-pin energy efficient bulbs, yet the building regulations for new-builds mean you're expected to buy these hard-to-find expensive ones.
It's an easy DIY job to replace most of them with normal 2-pin sockets and it works out far cheaper than replacing dead lamps with 3-pin ones... so all those 3-pin sockets end up in landfill. How green is that?

I find good earplugs help me stop worrying about that sort of thing.

Yes, it is a 27mm nut.
Measure with the bike on the centrestand as the manual says, the 30 to 40mm of slack specified takes account of the fact that the sprockets and pivot aren't in a straight line with the suspension unloaded. It's easier to measure and adjust the chain than with the bike on the sidestand anyway.

I think you're probably spot on with that diagnosis Griff.
It's certainly well worth checking the battery voltage is being regulated before installing a new CDI.

I've not been impressed by the electrics on the two Kawasakis I've had. Quite apart from the poor quality wire they used, both suffered ignition problems:
The GPZ305 used a magneto to provide a high voltage to the CDI: this coil packed up after a few years... I got the generator rewound by an incompetent company called Electrex as I couldn't afford a new one. Even once they'd got it right that coil gave up after a few thousand miles. Eventually I built a small circuit to generate the 130V pulses needed which ran for the rest of the bike's life.
My GPZ500 started having intermittent ignition problems when it was still under warranty: high rpm would provoke it, but not if the engineer from the dealer was riding it... I ended up having to diagnose it myself. After checking the CDI itself was OK (by making a variable pulse generator to simulate the pick-up pulses) I found it was the pick-up coils themselves producing such a high voltage at high revs that it was overloading the input to the CDI. Some back-to-back zener diodes solved the problem.

It certainly sounds like the starter relay to me too.
If the battery is fine then the problem may be poor electrical contact somewhere. Check all those connectors around the relay and in the plastic box under the tank. Any that don't feel firm when you push them together can be tightened by carefully squeezing the female connector with a pair of pliers, though to do this most of them will probably need to be popped them out of the plastic shroud. Do them one at a time to avoid getting them muddled up!
The poor contact may be the starter button itself, it's a pig to reassemble if you have to take it apart to clean the contacts... try squirting some WD40 up the drain holes at the bottom of the switch body first.
Good luck!

Normally the more tightly wound end of the spring is at the top to minimise the unsprung weight. However, the equivalent of an extra turn or so of spring material is only going to amount to a few percent of the mass of the wheel/axle/tyre/brake and all the other suspension components that have to follow the lumps and bumps of the road.
I'd certainly reassemble them the right way up, but wouldn't expect to be able to tell the difference on the road.

My current one is a Caberg V2. Great in summer with all the vents and the inner dark visor that flips down Top-Gun style. In winter it's not so good despite fogging up far less than any other full face helmet I've ever had... it manages this by being very draughty, the cold blasts of air make my eyes water like mad and that then gets sprayed around and onto the inside of the visor.

When that happened to me it was caused by corrosion to one of the wires at the little spade terminals that plug onto the switch. It was a fiddly job remaking the end by cleaning up the spade connector and soldering the wire back on... crimping a fresh terminal on would have been an easier solution if I could have been bothered to go out and buy a kit.

I saw an orb once.  It was really intruiging.  At night on the coast path heading back towards Watergate Bay near Newquay.  Me and my mate (both pissed) saw it, it appeared to be at the same height as the cliff path - but a few metres out to see (so in mid air).  It was some way ahead and appeared to move away at the same rate as we were walking closer.  Very hard to explain what it could have been (believe me we tried)!  I feel lucky to have seen whatever it was as I'm very sceptical generally.

That would have been the moon.

Looks like the pilot jet. If it isn't seized in the body of the carb an ultrasonic cleaning bath might do the trick if you've access to one.

The limiting factor will probably be your backside at sensible speeds, at insensible ones it's more likely to be neck muscles that will decide when you've had enough... the bike will be tougher than either. I find anything over 400 miles in a day to be quite hard going.

Major: I don't understand, why not have the left beam on all the time?
Agreed the H4 dip is better than the H1, but the two added together puts more light on the road... particularly important when you go from a clear road lit by both to a situation with oncoming traffic. Nearly halving your useful light output at the same time as being dazzled doesn't sound the best option.