Date: 17-01-19  Time: 00:07 AM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Fazerider

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 84
1
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Oil pressure switch
« on: 12 January 2019, 11:49:03 PM »
The reason to wait a few minutes after warming up is so that most of that oil drains back into the sump.
Just for interest the increase in volume is :-
Volumetric expansion coefficient of engine oil is 0.00070 per deg C
Oil capacity say 2.7ltrs = 2,700c.c.
Lets say temperature difference from cold to warm is 40 deg C
Change in oil volume = 0.00070 x 2700 x 40 = 75.6c.c.
To use a previous measuring scale that’s about three normal egg cups worth.
I’ve no idea what that difference in volume represents in terms of height in the site glass and never bothered about it. Maybe I’ll have to check the oil level when cold and then again when warm after standing a few minutes and see if my calculation theory is total garbidge.  ;)
The calculation sounds ok, but it’s only half the story as the aluminium alloy cases expand with heat too... so the sump gets bigger. :lol

2
General / Re: Today's "What Gets My Goat"
« on: 12 January 2019, 10:06:33 AM »
There’s a cat near me that is in the habit of taking a dump on paths and lawns rather than burying its turds in my garden like most of its kind. I’ve trodden in it or put the lawnmower through it on about a dozen occasions and they are the most revolting faeces I’ve ever encountered.
Christ knows what the bastard eats… ripe Parmesan cheese and diarrohea to judge by the stench.

3
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Rear shock durability
« on: 09 January 2019, 01:59:46 PM »
I get about 100k from them, but I don't weigh much so they probably have an easier time.
YSS is probably a better bet than a used low milage shock (if you can't stretch to the preferred option of a converted R6 shock).


4
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Oil pressure switch
« on: 09 January 2019, 01:53:10 PM »
Rather than faffing about running the engine for a specific length of time and then letting it stand for a specific length of time, I prefer to just check it when cold... mine likes it filled to the top of the window, any less than that and it gives the dreaded red light.

5
An incorrectly routed cable can result in it getting brushed by the heads of the brake disc bolts. Once they’ve worn through the insulation that can give some crazy readings on the speedo.

6
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Cylinder head removed
« on: 27 December 2018, 12:17:11 PM »
So long as the gasket is intact and clean I’d be inclined to leave it in position.
Taking the barrels off can mean a lot of fiddling about to persuade the pistons back.

7
General / Re: It's finished
« on: 25 December 2018, 01:55:55 PM »

Wow! That looks absolutely stunning.
And it's good to hear of a Fazer brought back from the brink when so many are being scrapped/broken every year.  :thumbup

8
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Greasing my Speedo Drive Help.
« on: 22 December 2018, 02:22:27 PM »

Yes, pic is now visible, I'd use the one on the right.
I do prefer to chock the front as it's more stable, but often use an old car battery on the pillion seat as well to reduce the stress on the downpipes.


9
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Greasing my Speedo Drive Help.
« on: 22 December 2018, 11:11:39 AM »

Can’t see the greases you’re choosing between. I use a light moly and go for the in-between quantity: generous but not packed solid.
Even with the front wheel out the centre of gravity is forward of the centrestand so you'll either need to support the front or stick something heavy on the pillion seat.

10
General / Re: Today's "What Gets My Goat"
« on: 21 December 2018, 06:41:26 PM »

Also shotguns have an effective range of maybe 100 metres (depending on load), so the chances of being in the right place are pretty slim.


With enough people around the perimeter of the airport, spaced at say 75m apart, we could get it :pokefun
If it was that easy I'm sure they'd have done it. Drones can reach many thousands of feet in altitude and fly for miles: projectile weapons don't stand much chance of shooting it down unless you happen to be near the launch or landing area.

11
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Engine is out; suggest servicing recommendations
« on: 21 December 2018, 03:13:34 PM »
Take the opportunity to remove the exhaust studs and replace with stainless steel. Search the forum for exhaust studs.


 :agree Definitely a good move, did mine while still in the frame, not easy but not impossible either.
Stainless studs with plain steel nuts, or, Stainless nuts on plain steel studs.
Stainless with Stainless is not good because of 'Galling' (Cold Welding) can make it impossible to undo.

Stainless steel turnbuckles on a yachts standing rigging are a disaster, they are strong and fine until you need to adjust or remove them.

Had a survey done on Zara (Yacht) last spring ready for the new season (Insurance requirement) and we had to take the mast down for the survey and to replace a navigation light head, ended up having to cut all the turnbuckles off with a disc cutter as they refused to shift.
6 new turnbuckles at £47 each and a lot of work. I put one of the old turnbuckles in an engineers vice and attacked it with a set of 24" Stilsons, all I managed was to twist the 60 mm long x 10mm stud around like a candy twist and snap it off, no sign of movement on the threads. Don't need galling on an exhaust stud.

It's worth putting dab of copper slip on the studs before you spin the nuts on, I remove the stud nuts one at a time, not all at once, each year and reapply copper slip to each as a part of my winterisation service, they come undo with no problems at all. :D    

Using different grades of stainless steel is supposed to go a long way towards avoiding the risk of galling.
I used A2 threaded rod for the studs and A4 dome nuts and haven’t had any problem. Though admittedly, I do stuff the nuts with Copaslip too which would probably be adequate protection even if you used the same grade of stainless for both nut and stud.

12
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Spark plug drain holes
« on: 19 December 2018, 04:44:05 PM »

By coincidence I'm also trying to clean up the top of a 50,000 mile FZS600 motor.
The drain hole continues in a straight line through the outer plug well to the inner.
This means that Plug 1 (4) needs to be out in order the clear the hole all the way to Plug 2 (3)… so debris and water from the inner plug well will drop into the now open outer plug hole.
I'd done a reasonable job of blowing all the loose muck out of the way before starting and now have plug 1 out. Despite the cleaning there is a lot of dirt that didn't shift and is poised around the hole. I plan to get the vacuum cleaner on it tomorrow to stop that gritty crap landing on top of the piston and then find a way to temporarily block the hole. I guess cutting the top off a spare 10mm bolt and then putting a slot in it will do the job.

13
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Original fitment tyres
« on: 14 December 2018, 05:46:33 PM »

Mine (bought new in 1998) came with Bridgestone BT57s.
I think in later years they used Bridgestone BT010s.

14
General / Re: what did you do with your fazer today ?
« on: 13 December 2018, 10:23:20 PM »

It’s misfiring horribly below 4000 rpm, the plugs are seized in the head and 2nd gear is worse than useless… so I’ve bought it a replacement engine. Hopefully arriving tomorrow.
Unfortunately one of the less accessible exhaust studs is sheared so I’ll have to figure out how to extract that before I find out if the engine is good. :'(

15
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Intermittent Non Start
« on: 11 December 2018, 01:07:32 PM »
The click you get is presumably the starter relay activating. If the contacts, or the starter motor commutator, has a bit of dirt/glazing then that can be enough to stop it spinning up.

16
General / Re: what did you do with your fazer today ?
« on: 03 December 2018, 10:16:29 AM »
I took the bike to Chilworth in Surrey yesterday (for a look round the gunpowder mills and a sweaty climb up to St Martha's church). The bike fired up instantly, despite not having been used in a couple of weeks, but only on two cylinders. The others chimed in increasingly often as the miles went by, but even at the end of the run it was rough as hell at low rpm. :'(

17
General / Re: Flat Battery
« on: 03 December 2018, 09:51:43 AM »

Early Fazers still on their first batteries aren’t that rare. 
Mine spins the motor up OK and IIRC Red98 is on the original too. :)

nearly FAZERIDER  :) had to replace it last year , bikes a 98 so lasted 19 years  :thumbup  Bought an identical replacement GS YUSSA , bet you it dosn't last as long......... :rolleyes

Ah, OK. Perhaps they are getting rare now.  :lol
You don’t get this sort of lifetime without it being a top-notch battery, I’m sure you won’t regret buying the same again.
Mine’s had an easy life up to now… they definitely thrive on regular use, I’ve never needed to put it on charge. Now my commuting days are over (I got made redundant in summer) it is probably going to need an occasional maintenance charge.

18
General / Re: Flat Battery
« on: 02 December 2018, 05:31:44 PM »

Early Fazers still on their first batteries aren’t that rare. 
Mine spins the motor up OK and IIRC Red98 is on the original too. :)

19
General / Re: Flat Battery
« on: 30 November 2018, 10:02:44 AM »
I love this site, thank you.


Little bike is a ybr125, not sure if its 12v or 6v but that's a good idea Millietant.
Asking a 5AH battery to start a 600cc motor that’s not been turned over in 3 months is a tall order.  I’d use a car battery.

20
General / Re: Flat Battery
« on: 29 November 2018, 10:12:12 PM »
If you want to try His Dudeness’s suggestion of paralleling the batteries, you can use a 21 W indicator bulb in series (i.e between the two positive terminals) as a current limit. If it glows brightly that’s good news, keep it in circuit until it goes out. That way, if the battery is recoverable you won’t damage it with an excessive charging current.

21
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Throttle/carbs issues
« on: 27 November 2018, 11:17:35 AM »

The butterflies aren’t lubricated by fuel, the float bowls being empty won’t have any effect.
I put a drop of oil as near as possible to each bearing point on the pivot shaft, but if the bank of butterflies turn smoothly and snap back OK when the cables aren’t there that doesn’t sound like the cause.
Silly suggestion: have you checked the right cables are on front and back of the carb pulley?
Only asking because the old cable I have to hand has the chunky adjuster on the return side and your photo shows it mounted on the front.
Pull cable is longer than push, so it makes sense pull goes at the back and push to the front.
Ah, yes. You're right. I'd misremembered the direction the butterflies turn. :o

22
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Throttle/carbs issues
« on: 27 November 2018, 10:10:03 AM »

The butterflies aren’t lubricated by fuel, the float bowls being empty won’t have any effect.
I put a drop of oil as near as possible to each bearing point on the pivot shaft, but if the bank of butterflies turn smoothly and snap back OK when the cables aren’t there that doesn’t sound like the cause.
Silly suggestion: have you checked the right cables are on front and back of the carb pulley?
Only asking because the old cable I have to hand has the chunky adjuster on the return side and your photo shows it mounted on the front.

23
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Throttle/carbs issues
« on: 26 November 2018, 06:00:31 PM »

Is it friction at the twistgrip itself?
You may have the rubber grip rubbing against the body of the pulley housing, or the bar end weight pressing on the outer end of the grip.

24
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Throttle/carbs issues
« on: 26 November 2018, 08:37:21 AM »
Have you checked your routing against the diagrams in section 2 of the manual (downloadable here)?

25
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Electrics have gone crazy
« on: 23 November 2018, 11:38:27 AM »
It sounds like the connection to ground is dodgy.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 84