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Messages - shieldr
1
« on: 02 April 2019, 08:21:28 am »
I did 2 things and the noise has gone for now. added a smidgeon of oil that I don't think was necessary Removed the front wheel, checked the bearings to be OK and added a bit of grease. I guess my lesson learned now when she is squawking is to check the safety stuff by a process of elimination. i.e. brakes, chain, wheel bearings, drive bearings and add a wee bit of grease. I did not think that kind of noise would come from the wheel. Hey ho thanks for all the tips, hi-jacks and connotations  . Am a bit handier with the bike now
2
« on: 29 March 2019, 05:38:23 pm »
Could a bit too much oil cause this?
3
« on: 29 March 2019, 11:23:23 am »
Pic of front sprocket. Nothing to see other than sludge from chain lub.
4
« on: 29 March 2019, 09:47:08 am »
Thanks.
Need to check the clutch items you mention. All new for me. Engine oil is clutch oil right? If so then all is good. In range and right level.
If you say clutch doesn't normally cause squawk then it might be another red herring. I thought a slightly faulty clutch would make it safe to ride until symptoms become more apparent or obvious. I have checked brakes and bearings so think it will be safe to ride anyway.
Was also wondering if the noise could be coming from the air side. Maybe carbs, head gasket, loose plugs....
I will see how to check and adjust the clutch cable next. If nothing else I am learning about my bike.
Cheers
5
« on: 28 March 2019, 11:41:01 pm »
Update: back wheel off tonight and bearings feel sound. Also took front sprocket cover off too and all looks and feels normal. Reassembled all with smidgeon of grease and squawk occurred a couple of times for a second or two on a one mile run.
I found a mcn article online about motorbike noises and it says that a squawk is most likely to be the clutch going. This sounds plausible as I never really thought this noise was from wheels, bearings or forks etc.
Any thoughts on the clutch theory and is it an easy job?
Ta
6
« on: 26 March 2019, 08:01:23 am »
I haven't had gearbox bearing trouble but I think it's more of a low rumbling noise rather than a high pitch squawk. A high pick squawk seems more like something is rusty like a chain or a rusted wheel bearing/ sprocket carrier bearing. That's what I'd be leaning towards but it's only a guess. Is the chain oiled? If the chain has tight spots you tend to notice them through the front sprocket because it has to go around a smaller diameter. If you could get a few pictures of the chain and sprocket up or a video of the noise that might help.
The chain looks in great nick to me and a video of the squawk could be tricky as it only happens on the road. I will take a close look at the chain and then get the rear wheel off next. Cheers.
7
« on: 25 March 2019, 11:33:52 pm »
Next steps checking the rear wheel bearing. Am still not sure but it is a process of elimination now. Seriously hope it’s not an engine rebuild but it does sound more like it is coming from that area. Would a rear wheel bearing failure only make that noise occasionally? Thanks for the fantastic advice by the way.
8
« on: 25 March 2019, 09:03:30 pm »
OK. Chain adjusted fine now and intermittent squawk apparent for a few short bursts on a 5 min run around. Occurring at quite slow speeds, 30mph, accelerating and remaining for a few seconds easing off the throttle. Sounds like it is coming from inside some sort of enclosure which is making me think front sprocket bearing...
Things I am sure it is not but haven't proved yet...... fork seals, brakes, chain alignment or tension. Sounds like a blade of grass held between 2 thumbs and blown for short bursts...
9
« on: 25 March 2019, 06:38:04 pm »
I had squealing that matches your description. At first I thought it was a worn chain too, but it turned out to be a worn chain and a knackered sprocket carrier bearing.
Cheers. I will check that if the noise recurs.
10
« on: 25 March 2019, 06:32:12 pm »
If the wheel is not straight and the chain a bit dry then that could cause the noise.
With the bike on the centre stand, spinning the wheel will tell you if it's aligned correctly or not. The chain should quietly purr when it's right, but if it's not straight then you'll hear all sorts of noises.
When adjusting the chain slack don't forget to slacken the brake caliper bar, and take your time nipping up either side a tiny bit at a time then spinning the wheel to hear if it's okay.
You want roughly around 35mm of play at the lower middle part of the chain, or a quicker and easier way is pushing the front of the lower chain upwards with your finger and it should just touch the plastic chain guide.
Having it too tight is just as bad as having it too loose, so get it right then you won't need to adjust it again for ages.
I've started using a paint brush with engine oil to lubricate my chain now, instead of spray lube which i used for decades, and the chain is in better condition than ever. Plus it doesn't clog up any more, it repels dirt, and the oil effectively gets into every link when applied when the chain is warm after a run plus only takes a maximum 2 minutes to apply. I have newspaper down in my garage to catch any drips, and any other excess gets flung off next time i ride it.
Yeah I agree with darrsi. I think that's all spot on.
The chain shouldn't really be hanging off after only 2k. Either you're not oiling it enough and it wearing faster than it should or there might be a bit of play in your wheel bearings or swingarm bearings. Most likely is you're not oiling it enough but I'd check the wheel and swingarm bearings to be sure. How often you have to oil it depends on the lube you're using and the weather. If you're brushing on gear oil probably once a week/every other petrol fill up is enough or if it's very wet maybe do it every fill up. If you're using spray on lube you can push that further but you should still be doing it regularly. That's just my thoughts on it but it's definitely true that the same chain can last 50,000 miles or 5,000 miles, it all depends on how well you look after it.
Cheers. The funny things is the last touch on the chain was by the local bike shop at MOT time. Mind you the back brakes have been rotten since he changed the brake fluid too. A wee bubble in the back caliper I suspect.
11
« on: 25 March 2019, 06:28:05 pm »
If the wheel is not straight and the chain a bit dry then that could cause the noise.
With the bike on the centre stand, spinning the wheel will tell you if it's aligned correctly or not. The chain should quietly purr when it's right, but if it's not straight then you'll hear all sorts of noises.
When adjusting the chain slack don't forget to slacken the brake caliper bar, and take your time nipping up either side a tiny bit at a time then spinning the wheel to hear if it's okay.
You want roughly around 35mm of play at the lower middle part of the chain, or a quicker and easier way is pushing the front of the lower chain upwards with your finger and it should just touch the plastic chain guide.
Having it too tight is just as bad as having it too loose, so get it right then you won't need to adjust it again for ages.
I've started using a paint brush with engine oil to lubricate my chain now, instead of spray lube which i used for decades, and the chain is in better condition than ever. Plus it doesn't clog up any more, it repels dirt, and the oil effectively gets into every link when applied when the chain is warm after a run plus only takes a maximum 2 minutes to apply. I have newspaper down in my garage to catch any drips, and any other excess gets flung off next time i ride it.
Some great tips here much appreciated. It's always been a quiet purr for me.
12
« on: 24 March 2019, 09:34:31 am »
Hard to say. less than 2000 for sure. I have never seen a chain that slack though. I will keep an eye on it anyway. I won't be riding until Monday but finding that seems like a smoking gun to me. 
13
« on: 23 March 2019, 08:00:25 pm »
Update; got an hour to check the bike today and found an extremely slack chain. It was fitted new a year ago and tightened up at mot time last August. The play was massive and I have no idea why or if this might cause the intermittent squawk. Will be Monday before I get a chance now. The front sprocket I checked as fine also. This was changed at the same time as the chain. Can anyone confirm if a super slack chain could make this noise. Ta
14
« on: 22 March 2019, 05:30:49 pm »
Knackered wheel bearing/s?
Speedo drive as mentioned.
What about your lid? Vent open/loose and causing high pitched noise?
Chris
Ta, doesn’t sound like a bearing squeal. More of a weird squawk. I did think it was the lid or glove heating cables hanging out of the jacket but definitely not. 🍻
15
« on: 22 March 2019, 05:27:27 pm »
Parrot attached to the handlebars? 
I will check 1st thing Monday morning 
16
« on: 22 March 2019, 05:20:51 pm »
Front fork seals ? Do you get the same when breaking ?
Are we talking hard acceleration then cruise/throttle off.....gentle acceleration then cruise/throttle off. Acceleration from standstill or acceleration from any given speed ? Any particular gear ?
Ta, the noise is fairly intermittent. Happened say 4 times for a few seconds on a 10 mile commute home. Fairly loud and Squawky though. I would say some times during normal acceleration in the middle gears then particularly when coming off the the throttle for a few seconds or more. It sounds like air squawking past some sort of seal.
17
« on: 22 March 2019, 05:14:57 pm »
Speedo drive on the front wheel? When they run out of grease they squeal something rotten.
Cheers, I will grease it anyway as it has it been done in years. Also I have used the bike through the winter so that would stack up. 👍
18
« on: 22 March 2019, 02:49:50 pm »
Hi, have an fzs600 with 31k on the clock. Have had it for around 6 years with no major problems. Just recently I have had a squawking noise intermittently when riding. The noise comes in short bursts. Usually just after accelerating. At first I thought was Some sort of wind noise but now am sure it’s mechanical. Any ideas? Brakes all look good. I thought maybe headers, loose plug, head gasket. Sounds like a budgie being strangled. Not like brake squeal at all. Thanks for any help . It is hard to check when riding with lid on etc.
19
« on: 31 May 2018, 12:57:13 pm »
Hi, A couple of weeks ago I took the bike out the garage as usual and she would not start. Eventually she roared into life just as the juice was about out. Since then no probs until this morning came out and turned her over until the battery was deid. So turned the car round gave a her a jump and she started like a dream. I stuck a yuasa battery in maybe 3.5 years ago and would not expect this to fail after such a short period. Although the fact that she started with a jump makes me think that the problem is not fuel related. I have done nothing to the fuel system in 4/5 years. I used to check alternators in cars by seeing whether the headlights were getting brighter when revving. Might do that tonight. I don't want to stick a new battery in then knacker it.
Any ideas?
Ta
20
« on: 15 March 2018, 09:41:27 pm »
😂
21
« on: 15 March 2018, 10:51:45 am »
Rivets checked out at 6.04 and 5.92 mm. am happy with that. Thanks for the table.
22
« on: 13 March 2018, 11:17:25 pm »
Cheers robbo. I’ll get the calipers on it when i I get a minute at work.
23
« on: 13 March 2018, 10:14:25 pm »
Certainly would though I’d rather squish it in situ to avoid taking it past the swing arm and buying and engineering vice or anvil 😃. Attached is a photo of current state. I suspect they will do. Pain in the arse all this special tool mularkey.
24
« on: 13 March 2018, 09:11:33 pm »
Aye. A short fat object that I could fit in my eBay rivet tool would do the job. Just enough to splay the soft rivets would work...will see what they have at work. I think the standard rivet tool fitted inside the concave bit of the rivet so did not have much effect. Might even have something in the garage...
25
« on: 13 March 2018, 07:24:53 pm »
Hi, do I need a special did rivet pin to fit a did vx chain rivet? I will get verniers in it tomorrow but to be honest I don’t think there has been much movement.
I noticed there wasn’t too Much displacement on the pin heads when I nipped them up last week. I then checked the did pdf sheet on line and it states this special rivet pin must be used. The did tool is very expensive on eBay.
The standard tool that I used appeared a bit damaged after use, see photo.
Ta
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