Date: 29-03-24  Time: 04:58 am

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Topics - redmandan

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1
FZS600 Fazer / Not much luck with the Gunsons Colortune
« on: 13 September 2019, 07:23:12 pm »
Hi Guys

So this Summer I fitted my new Delkevic full exhaust and today the K&N air filter arrived along with a Colortune! (American spelling of colour of course  :b )

Whilst the tank was off to fit the new air filter I figured I'd re-balance the carbs and hook up the Colortune. As for balancing I'm pretty sure I've got some air getting in at the connection points on the boots for the Vaccuum gauges. I have cheap Chinese boots and the balance gauge connection posts can easily be pulled out. But I digress.

I connected the colortune reasonably easily, fired it up and I couldn't see anything at all. Maybe my idle is too high or it was too bright out but it was a pretty dull and overcast day so I don't really know what's up. All the videos online seem to show a really clear burn on the colortune. Whats more, the colortune kept arcing to the head, this didn't seem too safe so I took a quick video, put the nromal plug back in and decied to retreat to ask you all once again for your sage advice.

https://youtu.be/ZvaFINWu4ts
https://youtu.be/ZvaFINWu4ts


I tried with the 45 degree mirror attachment thing but that didn't help either.

I have noticed before, when I was removing plug caps with the engine running, that it was very easy to receive a shock through the HT leads. Is this normal? surely it's all well insulated?

Also a couple of pics of my spark plugs directly after removing if the FOC-u gurus wouldn't mind casting your eyes over them. This is after warming up, in neutral only, going up to around 3500 revs.

https://imgur.com/a/d21M26I


Cheers for the help

2
FZS600 Fazer / What aftermarket exhaust did you all get?
« on: 07 June 2019, 12:14:33 am »
My downpipes are starting to look very crusty, in the quest to keep the old bird on the road and looking her best I'm gonna have to change them in the near future. Downpipes alone plus end can are +-£300, buying them seperately runs >£300


From what I see there's basically Black Widow and Delkevic giving the best value/range and it seems to me Delkevic are the better of the two. My riding buddy has a Delkevic on his bandit and it's pretty sweet.


I don't want a neighbour waking howl, I use my bike to commute in the summer from 6am and pissing them off is not my intention. I want a decent exhaust that let's the engine run well but let's be honest, in a tunnel if you wang the throttle back with the standard can it's a bit underwhelming.


I'm also a bit of a traditionalist when it comes to styling. No streetfazer here (sorry 74eldiablo). So with this in mind I've narrowed down the following 2 options, just putting it out there for your thoughts:


The practical option : 450mm so i guess this is the neighbour pleaser. This is also the same one my riding buddy has.
The wishlist : I like the look of it, perhaps a little stubby at 320mm but they don't have a longer one. Again, I'm not about announcing my presence to the whole neighbouhood.


So what do you all have? It's hard to make a decision without hearing how it will sound on the bike. There's also £50 between the practical and the wishlist.

3
Hi guys

As the title says. I didn’t remember to take photos of the others before sticking them back in the callipers, these are probably on the better side but not much between them all.

This is after cleaning with brake cleanr and a light sanding with 400 grit. There was a clearly visible line of dirt when I got the pistons out and all the corrosion is in that area, above the seals, so I don’t think there’s an issue but it’s always good to have all your opinions.

4
FZS600 Fazer / Rear caliper dust seals from Wemoto are too wide
« on: 23 April 2019, 09:33:08 pm »
Hi guys

My latest bit of maintenance has led me to overhaul the rear caliper. I've had nothing but success with Wemoto before so ordered some new seals and pads from there. After finally getting both pistons moving with compressed air, then pulling the old seals out of one side, the new brake fluid seal went in no problems but the dust seal just would not seat in the groove properly. It was almost like it was 20% too big in circumference although it was a perfect fit around the piston alone.

Eventually I held it up against the old dust seal and it is indeed noticeably thicker.

https://imgur.com/a/WOQBVKA

With this extra thickness it won't seat in the groove of the caliper and is effectively useless. I didn't realise Wemoto weren't OEM but I thought they would be better than this. The brake fluid seal seems to be the same size and circumference as the old one but how can I be sure it won't leak brake fluid all over the place when I need to stop.

I will ping an email off to Wemoto and see what they say.

Where do you all get your seals from?

5
FZS600 Fazer / Newly upholstered seat has arrived.
« on: 27 March 2019, 08:23:22 pm »
Sent the seat off to Poland a couple of weeks ago for a re-upholstery with Wijalis and got it back yesterday.

Piccies (imgur)

I quite like the standard look of the box eye fazer, has something of a retro feel, but I do want mine to be somewhat personal. After much deliberation I went for blue piping to match my new blue brake lines (rear one just waiting to be installed).

Costs:
£125 in the eBay shop for the reupholster, including return postage.
€23/£19.5 to send to Poland.
I contemplated having the gel cushion added but it was an extra £45 and I didn’t think it was worth it. The seat feels nice and firm as well as much grippier on the turns. I think it is a touch wider and higher as well which is probably a good thing for lanky old me.

All in all I recommend Wijalis, maybe a little expensive compared to others on mainland UK (I'm a Brit abroad) but the end product is top notch.

6
FZS600 Fazer / Cobra brake lines
« on: 06 November 2018, 10:31:30 am »
Looking around for some braided brake lines as an upgrade for this winter as part of an overhaul of the whole system.


A couple of forum posts from another site say these guys operate under license from HEL and therefore have the same standard/quality. That's great as they are far cheaper. Too good to be true right? Anybody have any experience with these guys?

https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-Fazer-1998-2003-2-front-1-rear-Cobra-Braided-Brake-Hoses/183513967441?hash=item2aba48eb51:g:sdsAAOSwJQdXDRVu:rk:5:pf:0

7
FZS600 Fazer / Saw this one on the way home
« on: 14 September 2018, 08:45:50 pm »
Thoughts?


Looks a little amateur to me, I also prefer the standard look, but if a young lad keeps an old bike on the road by doing this why the hell not.


https://i.imgur.com/LmfNsSN.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/CU8AzlA.jpg

8
FZS600 Fazer / Reluctant to start after a month in the sun
« on: 13 July 2018, 01:27:46 pm »
Foccers


Left the old girl at work while I went on holiday, although she was covered the spot was quite exposed and the black cover wouldn't have helped with the temperatures we've been having. I foolishly did nothing to prepare the bike to be laid up for a month other than putting the cover on.


Turned the key and the dash sprang to life, let the fuel pump fill the carbs, this took a few seconds so I knew the contents had evaporated. It was already 20 deg out so I gave no choke. Turned the key and the starter motor did it's thing but there was no fire. Did this for a good 10 seconds and also gave half choke. Nothing. Turned off the lights to give the starter full current, tried again. It did eventually fire with half choke but it was running very weakly, about 300rpm, tried giving a little gas and it cut off. Started her again and it only fired after about 5 seconds of starter motor, again at about 300rpm. Tried gently applying more choke and it cut again. After a few mins of this eventually it started to warm up and ran like the good bike I know it is. The battery was nearly flat so this was quite lucky.


My thinking:
Probably just a fuel supply problem, too much air in the carbs which took a while to push through, I use Marvel Mystery Oil and she was only still for a month so I don't think dodgy fuel could be the cause.


Possible other causes:
Weak spark
Exhaust is original, the downpipes are starting to corrode on the outside, inside could be worse causing back pressure. (50 000km on the clock)
Cylinder 3 doesn't warm up as quickly as the others, carbs were recently balanced so this is something I decided to just live with.
Maybe ignition


Anyone else care to weigh in

9
FZS600 Fazer / shimmy shimmy yah
« on: 18 May 2018, 09:50:04 pm »
During my recent cam chain replacement I thought it would be a good idea to check the valve timing. I don't really have a question about this I just wanted to get a bit of discussion going on what everybody else's valve timings are and if anybody has fitted, or considers it worth fitting, new shims to our bikes.


At 50 000km my bike isn't quite ready for the scrap heap but it's certainly no spring chicken (2000 model). Nevertheless in the 3 years I've had it, it has become my pride and joy and I would never sell it, I would only ever get around a grand for it and its worth far more to me and doesn't take up much room.


As you all know the FZS600s valves get tighter as the engine wears. The spec for intakes is 0.11-0.20mm, almost all mine are at 0.11mm (even lying to myself a bit on a couple of those) and one of my intakes on piston 4 is a solid 0.10. My exhausts aren't so bad: spec being 0.21-0.30 and pistons 2 and 3 both having all valves on 0.24 whilst 1 and 4 sit at 0.22.


I was prompted to post this as today I finally found some time away from the demands of fatherhood to balance the carbs following the cam chain replacement. 1 + 2 are sweet as a nut but 3 and 4 are a little harder to coax into balance and I thought the valve timing must be the reason. Tbh though the bike runs great for what I want it to do, I'm never going to take it on a track I just dream of taking it on a long trip. I look for reliability over performance. The hurricane rather than the spitfire. I ride with my brother mostly and he has a 2007 bandit which splutters and coughs like an aging smoker.

10
FZS600 Fazer / Ignition timing
« on: 14 April 2018, 09:03:00 pm »
So i'm probably about to fire the engine for the first time tomorrow following a cam chain replacement and the deepest engine work I have ever attempted. Today I checked the valve timing as I have had the cams out (all just within spec) and after a few beers this evening something hit me:


Given that the crankshaft turns 720 degrees in one full rotation of the engine, when I re-installed the cams at TDC for piston 1, how do I know it's at TDC for piston 1 and not piston 3? Then I remembered that the HT leads are divided between 1+3 and 2+4. Does this mean that 1 and 3 spark at the same time regardless of whether the piston is in compression or power stroke? If so then it only matters that the cam chain dots lined up with the markings on the engine whilst the crankshaft is at TDC as the spark plugs spark twice per 720 degree rotation.


Or I could be wrong and tomorrow it will blow up.

11
FZS600 Fazer / Rivetting new cam chain
« on: 04 April 2018, 06:21:44 pm »
Guys I'm right there in the danger zone.


After taking everything to bits (first time I ever took some cams off!) and successfully pulling the new chain through using the old one, I'm at the last hurdle before the re-build.


After reading previous threads and watching some videos whilst I was being paid to do my normal job, I ended up purchasing this fine chain breaker. It's done well so far until now when I have to put the rivet link in. It's as though it doesn't have the correct fitting to rivet over the new pins. Basically it's too big and all the suitable parts have grooves or holes in the wrong places which means too much pressure is applied to the adjacent links and they go stiff.


My question is this, does the DID chain rivet link NEED to be rivetted/peened over after getting it through the link? It looks kind of secure but I'd like some second opinions. Maybe there is another technique to rivet these links together?


Cheers

12


I honestly don't know how I owned the bike for 2 years without checking this. I thought the logbook made it seem like the previous owner was pretty savvy. I thought the guy I paid to fit a new chain and sprockets last year would have known about this. But none of that is an excuse, I should have checked and done it myself. I even bought the new nut as I was waiting for delivery of the bike and now I can't find the blasted thing.

So the list of things to buy/fit/maintain in prep for the new season:

Upgraded front sprocket nut and washer
Cam chain tensioner - must get rid of that awful rattle
Possibly cam chain - this scares me  :'(
As the carbs are off, bench sync them like I should have done the first time.
New fuel lines - replacing the ORIGINAL fuel filter on a 50000km bike without replacing the lines is a fools game, no wonder it feels like a pilot jet is blocked
Blast out the carb jets AGAIN
Braided brake lines?
While it's all in bits get the seat sent off to that Polish guy on ebay who re-upholsters them


Anybody else finding nasties as they prepare for the new season?

13
I posted a topic a few weeks ago and received some sage advice from you foccers. New fuel and air filters, carbs out and completely overhauled, checked my valve clearences, new plugs and caps, cooling system drained, flushed and re-filled. Got the bike back together, pressed the switch and she fired up again, no more carb overflow and firing on all cylinders.


The last job was to balance the carbs, partly because I have never done it before and partly because of a kind of ticking/ clanging sound at the top of the engine on the left side which gets better as the bike reaches temperature. After reading around a bit it would seem carb balancing could help. I read through pointer2null's post on the subject to prepare myself.


Here is a short vid of my carbs before I adjusted anything: [size=78%]
[/size]



Now this is where the problems started. Rather than buying the carb tune like a sensible person I bought a cheap 4 gauge vaccuum gauge thing off amazon. To reduce needle flutter it has little plastic valves that you screw in and out on the plastic tubes connected to the carbs. The problem is that half a turn on these seems to change the readout quite significantly and I can't be sure I'm getting an accurate reading. I got 3 + 4 carbs balanced, kind of, and then I fiddled around for ages with the centre screw but all it seemed to do was increase the revs with the needles barely moving up or down.


To reduce the revs back to idle I started to also play with the idle screw. Eventually this proved futile as it seems the idle screw had no effect anymore on the revs (could it have come detached or something at the carb end?) while the revs sit at 3000 and I can't get them down anymore. I was spinning and spînning the idle screw and it had no effect. Dejected, with a wife who I had promised this would only take 20 minutes and a toddler crying for his absent father I turned off the ignition, put the cover back on and hung my head in shame as I walked back into the house.


Should have just bought the carbtune.

14
FZS600 Fazer / 2000 FZS 600 runs lumpy after a trip to the Alps
« on: 13 September 2017, 08:26:18 pm »
Hi guys


Been lurking as a guest for a while but as I'm about to take the bike to bits I thought I would ask some advice to make sure I'm on the right track:


Backstory:
English guy living in Belgium, passed my test about a year ago and bought a fabulous 2000 Fazer with 42000 km on the clock for what I thought was a great price. Rode it to the Ardennes, rode it to work, rode it every time I could, it started up great every time and had me smiling from ear to ear. A big group of us planned a longer trip to the Alps so I prepped the bike with new tyres and a small service (oil change and once over from a local guy).


On the trip everything was fine until about the third day when we were at the base of the Alps. I had been putting the cover on the bike at night but regrettably I didn't do it this time as it was such good weather when we went to bed, it chucked it down all night. Went to start the bike in the morning and it was not raring to go like normal. No low end power, revving the engine just to keep it going, petrol smell from the exhaust. I adjusted the idle screw so it would run and made my way, albeit cautiously, up the alps in the continuing rain and heavy traffic. It was horrible bunny hopping round the hairpins. After about 3pm it got warmer and sunnier, I started to notice she was running a bit better. After stopping for fuel I hit the start button and it sprang to life like I was used to! Self healing bike!

On the trip back it rained again and all the old problems came back. What a bike though; it still got me home. It still has the same problems after sitting on the drive under cover for a few days, weather has been sunny with intermittent heavy showers. It will run if I turn it over for a good 10 seconds and give some gas but it doesn't want to keep running.

I suspect it is the coils as the exhaust for cylinders 1 and 4 get hot but 2 and 3 don't. I've been reading that 2 and 3 are on one coil whilst 1 and 4 are on the other. I also suspect the carbs need cleaning as petrol pours out of one of the overflow pipes when it is running. If the pilot jets are blocked this would explain the cold exhausts and bunny hopping at low revs. I have been reading pointer2null's post (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=91.0) about carb balancing

Jobs:
Remove tank to get at it
Check coils: Can I just swap the HT leads from 1 to 2 and 3 to 4 to test them or will they not fire at the right time?
New spark plugs all round
Check compression
Adjust valve clearences
Remove carbs and give thorough clean
Balance carbs
Replace the rubbers: I originally thought this might be the problem as they are all cracked and split
...

Anything else I might have missed let me know

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