Help: Gremlin Infestation

[PieEater]

Just got the bike out to enjoy a ride in the sunshine. It took a lot more effort to start than normal, seemed to be turning over OK but wouldn't catch. I played with the choke (not normally needed) still nothing, left it for 30 seconds and it started. Rode 500 yards down the road and everything cut out, engine, lights, clocks, everything. I turned round and started freewheeling back towards home and within 20 seconds the electrics came back on and the bike started up again when I pressed the starter.

Battery is Motobatt less than a year old (now on charge).
Bike is in good order with minimal corrosion, I've just been through all the electrics top to tail and made sure the connectors were all good and squirted WD40 down them all (not long ago did this with ACF50).
Iridium plugs are probably due for a change soon (done about 20k) but I wouldn't expect this is the issue.
Last ride out the bike behaved faultlessly although picked up a puncture so the back wheel has been out and back in since.
Will go down and squirt some WD down the ignition barrel.

Any ideas - hate not being able to trust the bike, I guess it's time to get some breakdown cover.

[nickodemon]

Check the connector that goes into the reg/rect underneath the left hand infill fairing panel. They are commonly an issue as they corrode badly. disconnect and check if the pins in the reg/rect and plug are clean and corrosion free. Even if they are i would cover with dielectric grease to ensure you don't have problems later on...

[unfazed]

Sound like the ignition switch or the connectors to it. The only thing that take out all the electrics is the main fuse or the ignition switch.

If engine spins and does not fire it is either the ignition switch or the connector to the pick up.

[PieEater]

Thanks Guys.

The reg / rec is corrosion free and all connections look fine but have been taken apart cleaned and re-squirted with WD40.

I traced the wiring from the ignition to the bundle of connectors under the tank, these have all now been taken apart cleaned and WD40'd, again no signs of corrosion.

The ignition barrel has had loads of WD40 squirted down it and I've found the 2nd key for the bike which fits more snugly.

The battery is charged.

The bike now starts on the button as I'd expect, so hopefully the gremlins have been killed by drowning in WD40.

[Val]

I traced the wiring from the ignition to the bundle of connectors under the tank, these have all now been taken apart cleaned and WD40'd, again no signs of corrosion.

The ignition barrel has had loads of WD40 squirted down it and I've found the 2nd key for the bike which fits more snugly.

The battery is charged.

The bike now starts on the button as I'd expect, so hopefully the gremlins have been killed by drowning in WD40.

I cannot stress how bad for the contacts and the ignition barel WD40 is 

WD40 is oil petroleum based, it can remove water, but if you think you are cleaning the contacts you are wrong.

I strongly sugest use electrical contacts cleaner and clean the WD40 soon. In the sockets within a couple of months WD-40 turns into a gummy substance that attracts all kinds of dirt.

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/lubricating-penetrating-oil/halfords-electrical-contact-cleaner-400ml

After cleaning If you want to make the sockets to have better connectivity and to prevent corrosion you use special products like:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Caig-DeOxit-Contact-Cleaner-Spray/dp/B00A2365BI

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Ideal-Noalox-Anti-Oxidant-Brush-Bottle/dp/B002KKY5MC/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1442703790&sr=8-1&keywords=Noalox

[slimwilly]

WOW, that's a first,,,i have never heard that WD40 is BAD for electrical contacts,,,,,,maybe that is just your take on it.

I will do as I think and carry on using it at will. 

[PieEater]

I cannot stress how bad for the contacts and the ignition barel WD40 is 
WD40 is oil petroleum based, it can remove water, but if you think you are cleaning the contacts you are wrong.
I strongly sugest use electrical contacts cleaner and clean the WD40 soon. In the sockets within a couple of months WD-40 turns into a gummy substance that attracts all kinds of dirt.

Thanks very much for your input and please don't think I am dismissing your advice. I do find WD40 to be pretty good at cleaning and flushing out dirt and moisture, its also going to protect against corrosion and water penetration. The downside as you say is it does retain dirt over time though only on the outside of the connector blocks as they are pretty well sealed, I tend to repeat external cleaning about once a year which is sufficient to keep a handle on dirt build up.

As I see it the issue with using a product that strips off oils etc like the Halfords contact cleaner is that you are then leaving the components unprotected from water penetration and corrosion, which I'm not sure is a good idea. And I'm not sure whether applying a further product afterwards to address this isn't then going to have the same dirt build up issue of WD40 over time.

Before rushing out and purchasing some contact cleaner and dielectric grease I'd appreciate some other peoples feedback on whether this is necessary (I see Slim has already had his input). Any comments on this product - http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorcycle/grease/corrosion-block-acf-50-grease if I were to go down the suggested clean and grease route.

[unfazed]

Afraid I also have to disagree with Val, I have been using WD40 for over 40 years, found it great for cleaning corrosion off anything and never had anything fail because of it.. Yes it can hold dust, but not internally in connections as they are sealed. The problem with contact cleaner on motorcycles is when it cleans it leaves no residue and makes the contacts even more prone to more corrosion, which WD40 prevents.
You can use it for removing tar, especially the front mudguard. the swinging arm and end can.
I also spray it liberally on the black engine to keep the shine and prevent salt corrosion.
It does attract attention when stopped at traffic and people think the bike is on fire

I have a 5 litre container and spray bottle which I use to treat the fazers after every wash. Polish the fairing and tank with it and it beads water off.

I only ever use contact cleaner on internal circuit boards of electronic equipment.

[PieEater]

I've been over the wiring several times now disconnecting the connectors making sure the joins are good and corrosion free squirting WD40 over the contacts cleaning off the dirt build up and checking for any bare wire but everything is in great condition. I took the bike out for its first proper ride since this all happened and it behaved faultlessly so I'm scratching my head as to what the problem was as I found nothing wrong. Hopefully it was just a loose or damp connection which has been sorted by my efforts and copious WD40. I've taken out some breakdown cover just in case but hopefully it won't be needed.

[Didier9]

Just got the bike out to enjoy a ride in the sunshine. It took a lot more effort to start than normal, seemed to be turning over OK but wouldn't catch. I played with the choke (not normally needed) still nothing, left it for 30 seconds and it started. Rode 500 yards down the road and everything cut out, engine, lights, clocks, everything. I turned round and started freewheeling back towards home and within 20 seconds the electrics came back on and the bike started up again when I pressed the starter.

Battery is Motobatt less than a year old (now on charge).
Bike is in good order with minimal corrosion, I've just been through all the electrics top to tail and made sure the connectors were all good and squirted WD40 down them all (not long ago did this with ACF50).
Iridium plugs are probably due for a change soon (done about 20k) but I wouldn't expect this is the issue.
Last ride out the bike behaved faultlessly although picked up a puncture so the back wheel has been out and back in since.
Will go down and squirt some WD down the ignition barrel.

Any ideas - hate not being able to trust the bike, I guess it's time to get some breakdown cover.

Have you had the battery tested under high current? Sometimes the internal connections start being flaky and occasionally open up, then when the connection closes again, everything seems to work, but a high current load test will show that. Typically I go to the car part store and they do not charge for the test that takes 5-10 minutes.


Here in Florida, batteries tend to die (particularly that way) quickly because of the extreme temperatures. Typical symptom is the car won't start after sitting on the parking lot in the middle of the day. Always OK in the morning.